Mazda - Miatamx-5 :: Coolant Sprayed On The Hood / Reservoir Empty
Jul 7, 2013
I noticed recently that I have a coolant leak in a used car that I got a few months ago. I've been driving this thing pretty regularly at this point, but I haven't noticed any overheating. The engine temp stays shy of the midpoint line on the meter, both at speed and in idle.
The coolant reservoir was empty a little over a month ago, so I filled it up. A few days ago, I took a look at it, and it was empty again. I refit a hose that was a little loose and decided I'd just wait and see what happened after driving it some. Over the past few days, I've noticed slight decreases in the coolant level each day.
Today was no different, except that after I drove for about 15 minutes on probably the hottest day of the year so far (about 95 degrees, don't know if that matters at all), I noticed there was coolant sprayed on the hood. I opened the hood and there was quite a bit of coolant pooled on the far left of the radiator top, right between the coolant reservoir and the radiator pressure cap. What's going on here?
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It has happened to me several times.. The car asks me for coolant but today the reservoir was almost completely empty... I have no leaks and my cooling systems is working fine so where does the coolant go?
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I have a 2006 3.5L Sante Fe. and i noticed there were coolant drips under the car and that my coolant reservoir was empty. In the engine bay below what i assume is the water pump i noticed the coolant pooling (See Photos). I am not sure if the seal is bad where the top radiator house connects to the water pump (circled in red, or if the thin metal line (circled in Blue) sitting in the coolant pool would have anything to do with it, since it seems to trace back to the radiator.
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Back in February, received a light and discovered that the inverter coolant reservoir was empty. I refilled the reservoir and cleared the code. Today, only 3 months later, the same thing happened. I don't see any wet hoses, puddles, or obvious signs of leakage. Where all my coolant is going? What steps should I use to properly troubleshoot...
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Today, I was greeted by a big red STOP! warning from my 2000 Passat 6 cylinder. The car drove fine last night. The coolant reservoir appears empty and has brown residue all over the inside. I notice for the first time that there is pink fluid on the floor -- I'm assuming this is the G12 coolant.
It's not a hot day, so I put in distilled water, turn up the heat and drive my Passat (trying to stay under 2k rpm) down to the dealer. They say that the coolant from the oil cooler leaked into the oil (and presumably, vice-versa).
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I just purchased a 2015 sonata last Friday from a large non Hyundai dealer. An hour ago while upgrading my headlights i noticed the coolant reserve tank was completely empty. I am going to check the main radiator level tomorrow because the engine was still hot at the time. I am hoping it is not a blown head gasket, i did remove the oil cap and noticed a very small amount of greyish oil in the cap threads other than that it looked good directly under the cap and inside the hole. Should i call my local Hyundai dealer or just fill the tank back up? I am wondering if it just burned off over time and the original owner never filled it back up. Also what type of coolant is compatible?
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2008 Santa Fe 2.7 105k miles Timing belt replaced two years ago at 80k miles I have no smoke, no sweet smell, no milk on oil dipstick, oil looks as clean as honey, no crustiness anywhere, no wet spots under hood or car. Yet my coolant reservoir was empty when I did my last oil change two mos. ago. I filled it up then. Today I checked it was just below the min. line. Car runs like a top, but I'm going to have a pressure test done today. I thought head gasket issues were very rare in these cars.
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1999 Honda CRV. Just took a 3-hour highway trip. Before trip I topped up coolant reservoir which was a little low, but radiator was full. I did notice some dried white spots on the front of valve cover and spark wires. Wasn't sure what it was, but now realize it was coolant residue. Probably only 1-2 cups were missing from the reservoir, so the leak had just started.
After 3 hour trip, checked engine compartment again. This time the reservoir was totally empty (radiator still full) and the engine was well sprayed with greenish coolant residue. The radiator was cool by the time I checked it, so the leak source wasn't obvious, but it looks to be coming from the seam where the plastic top meets the aluminum.
I will replace the radiator when I get home, but first have to drive the 3-hour return trip. Will it be OK as long as I start full of coolant and keep an eye on the temp gauge?
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1,500 miles ago my car had it's 30k service. Today, i got "CHECK...". At home this evening i checked the inverter coolant reservoir, it was empty. I've added 1L of de-ionised water (which got it to full, and i see turbulence in the fluid) until i can get the correct fluid.
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Had overheating issue with the wife (she doesn't monitor fluid levels like she should). Now you can't operate it for more than a day or two before the reservoir is super low to empty. Mechanic coolant is going into the engine, probably through the intake manifold. Says investigating further will cost a ton. What can I do cheaply to figure out what's going on before I give up? I followed her when the engine was started from cold & could see water vapor (more than I would expect) in the exhaust until when I figure the engine reached full operating temp. It has about 225k and is the 6 cyl engine, btw.
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I was driving my 2008 Santa Fe last week (before I went on vacation) and noticed the the A/C wasn't coming through quite a cool as usual (almost felt like the vent was on w/ no AC). Then after about 10 minutes of driving I noticed the thermostat on the car get to about the 3/4 line pretty close to the red lines.
Luckily I was home so turned the car off and popped open the hood. I noticed the reservoir tank was empty and there was some coolant that dripped down on the fans & a small pool of coolant on the engine block right under where the oil is poured. (nothing has been dripping under the car)
I added a little coolant to the reservoir tank and the next time I turned it on and let it run for ~10 minutes, it was the same thing.
Anyway, I came back from vacation and opened the hood to try and identify exactly where the leak was, and ran the car for ~30 minutes, with A/C on full blast and the car didn't overheat or leak anywhere. Coolant tank was still full from when I filled it the first time.
What could have caused the leak/overheating in the first place?
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I've got an '08 Cobalt. There is a large leak in my coolant system. The plastic reservoir is empty and if I add coolant and start the engine it all gushes out of a hole in a piece of plastic on the side of the radiator. Can I drive it to the shop if I watch the engine temperature or should I have it towed? Is the engine temperature measurement affected by the lack of coolant?
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Why my 96 dodge neon is leaking coolant. I was checking my oil and I noticed the reservoir tank was half empty, so I assumed it was nothing out of the ordinary since it's a 17 year old car. When I filled it though, it came pouring out of the tube that sits right under the tank. I'm capping it off every day before I drive and it holds, but it's definitely got a slow leak. It seems to only hold it for 4 days of driving for an hour. My temperature gauge stays at the normal level, but you can smell the antifreeze burning and the engine's running hot. I'm not too mechanically inclined, but what could be wrong with it? I've recently installed a new alternator and clutch cable and found out my valve cover gasket is leaking. I really want to save this car instead of getting a new one.
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While servicing the bosses 121k 6.0, I noticed the coolant resevoir empty. It took 1 1/2 gallons to bring to proper level. Returning under truck to install drain plug, I noticed coolant coming from rear of the engine(right side). And of course Ford has changed the cooling system cap, so I wasn't able to pressure test it to pinpoint the leak. Started the engine and seen coolant coming from the left rear as well. I've been reading here to see what others have been seeing, (EGR cooler, head gaskets). With all the heat shields,not much room to look.
After work I did go and buy the adapter to test the cooling system. With any luck I will be able to see leak better.
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I have a 1995 Mazda Miata with a manual transmission. Lately it has been getting harder and harder to get the car into reverse, 1st, and 2nd gears, and this morning it was impossible for me to get the car into reverse. Do I need to replace the clutch? Is it something else?
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I drive a fixer-upper 2000 Miata SE. When I turn in reverse, like to get out of a parking spot, I get this awful, intermittent scraping noise. Imagine a sci-fi movie where some ancient rusted megabot stands up for the first time in 1,000 years - that's basically the noise. I'm thinking the most likely culprits are the LSD and the steering column. But it only happens in reverse, which doesn't fit with the steering column theory (I think), and it sounds like it's coming from the front, which doesn't fit with the LSD.
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Wipers Only Work on Slowest Setting or if I operate them manually. Is this a problem with the motor? If it was a fuse problem, they probably wouldn't work at all, right? I've read that the problem could also be battery-related. This problem seemed to start after the battery died and was jumped.
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My car is a 2006 Mazda Miata, stock except for being lowered and having a different muffler. Nothing really noteworthy about it. I did run over a big chunk of something a few years ago that cracked the plastic undertray under the nose of the car and dented the bottom row of the condenser, but the problem I'm having is more recent.
About a year ago the AC stopped working. I took it to one shop that found there was no refrigerant in the system. They refilled it, and a few hours later it stopped working again. I took it to another shop that detected a leak in one of the schrader valves (the low pressure I think). He replaced that, filled it, and it worked again for another few months.
Recently it stopped working again. I took it to the same guy that replaced the schrader valve and he found that the high pressure hose had failed. He replaced it and refilled the system. It worked for a few hours. Then when I was sitting at a drive thru, a massive cloud of refrigerant erupted from under the hood and the AC stopped working. Took it back to the guy and he found the high pressure hose had blown off. He put it back on, refilled it, and the same thing happened again. Sitting in traffic, the high pressure hose blew and all the refrigerant poured out.
I took it back to him again and he put the hose back on and refilled it again. We let the car idle for about 30 minutes with the AC on and it worked fine. During this he had the high pressure gauge hooked up and it read between 150 and 175 with the car idling (about 70 degrees F ambient temp). He didn't have the low side gauge hooked up. We did see that the fan is working and kicked up to the higher speed. He did say he checked the dryer and that it looked like the bag that held the desiccant was intact, but he didn't mention replacing the dryer in any of these visits.
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I have a 2008 Miata that is new to me (<40K miles). When I first drive it in the morning it has a very noticeable bumping feel for the first couple of minutes then smooths out and is not noticeable for the rest of the day, even if I park it for a couple of hours. I believe the bumping is coming from the rear driver's side. I just replaced the tires (thinking they were flat spotted), but the problem persists.
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I have a 2003 f350 6.0. awhile back i was driving down the road and it died. popped the hood and there was a small amount of oil sprayed on the hood. rocker arm bolt had broke. that's been replaced and no it won't start. cranks and acts like it will what to fire for a second then it just cranks and does nothing. reading the tech on no start issues theres a lot to look at.
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So yesterday we were towing our camper home from a weekend trip. We were pulling on the interstate at about 70mph, up a slight grade into a strong headwind. The outside temp was about 85 degrees, so not too hot out. After about 5 miles I got antifreeze sprayed on my windshield, coming from under the left front corner of the hood. The water temp held at about 220 degrees where it usually runs when towing hard but the oil temperature steadily worked up to about 240 degrees. I limped to the nearest place to stop and pulled over to let it cool down.
After it cooled down I added water to bring it back up to the minimum mark. We were 200 miles from home on a Sunday so I stopped in the local Wal Mart and picked up a can of stop leak and poured that in then we hit the road again. About 10 miles down the road the water again sprayed onto the windshield and the oil temp came up, this time hitting about 260. The water temp stayed between 218 and 220, once working up to 225, so I slowed down and the temps came down. I was able to creep along and made it 50 miles to a relatives house where I let it cool again and added more water.
When we hit the road again we made it about 10 miles and the oil temp had worked back up to 240, water temp stayed around 218 so I stopped at my parents house and dropped the camper. We drove the 100 miles home from there without the camper. The water temp stayed around 195 and the oil temp held at 212. If I got over 60mph the oil temp came up, but keeping it under 60 the temp held. So, what is wrong with my truck? Is the oil temp up because I was a gallon and a half low on water? The most I had to put in was a gallon and a half. Did I plug the oil cooler up with the stop leak?
The oil temp when towing has always ran 12 to 18 degrees higher than the water temp. I forgot to add, 2005 F350 with the 6.0 diesel. 240,000 miles on the truck. I have owned it just under a year and don't know a lot about it. I don't know if it has had any work done to it prior to my owning it, the antifreeze looks orange or yellow colored.
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