Mazda - Miatamx-5 :: Air Conditioner Keeps Blowing The High Pressure Hose
Feb 23, 2012
My car is a 2006 Mazda Miata, stock except for being lowered and having a different muffler. Nothing really noteworthy about it. I did run over a big chunk of something a few years ago that cracked the plastic undertray under the nose of the car and dented the bottom row of the condenser, but the problem I'm having is more recent.
About a year ago the AC stopped working. I took it to one shop that found there was no refrigerant in the system. They refilled it, and a few hours later it stopped working again. I took it to another shop that detected a leak in one of the schrader valves (the low pressure I think). He replaced that, filled it, and it worked again for another few months.
Recently it stopped working again. I took it to the same guy that replaced the schrader valve and he found that the high pressure hose had failed. He replaced it and refilled the system. It worked for a few hours. Then when I was sitting at a drive thru, a massive cloud of refrigerant erupted from under the hood and the AC stopped working. Took it back to the guy and he found the high pressure hose had blown off. He put it back on, refilled it, and the same thing happened again. Sitting in traffic, the high pressure hose blew and all the refrigerant poured out.
I took it back to him again and he put the hose back on and refilled it again. We let the car idle for about 30 minutes with the AC on and it worked fine. During this he had the high pressure gauge hooked up and it read between 150 and 175 with the car idling (about 70 degrees F ambient temp). He didn't have the low side gauge hooked up. We did see that the fan is working and kicked up to the higher speed. He did say he checked the dryer and that it looked like the bag that held the desiccant was intact, but he didn't mention replacing the dryer in any of these visits.
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I have a 1995 Mazda Miata with a manual transmission. Lately it has been getting harder and harder to get the car into reverse, 1st, and 2nd gears, and this morning it was impossible for me to get the car into reverse. Do I need to replace the clutch? Is it something else?
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I drive a fixer-upper 2000 Miata SE. When I turn in reverse, like to get out of a parking spot, I get this awful, intermittent scraping noise. Imagine a sci-fi movie where some ancient rusted megabot stands up for the first time in 1,000 years - that's basically the noise. I'm thinking the most likely culprits are the LSD and the steering column. But it only happens in reverse, which doesn't fit with the steering column theory (I think), and it sounds like it's coming from the front, which doesn't fit with the LSD.
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Wipers Only Work on Slowest Setting or if I operate them manually. Is this a problem with the motor? If it was a fuse problem, they probably wouldn't work at all, right? I've read that the problem could also be battery-related. This problem seemed to start after the battery died and was jumped.
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I noticed recently that I have a coolant leak in a used car that I got a few months ago. I've been driving this thing pretty regularly at this point, but I haven't noticed any overheating. The engine temp stays shy of the midpoint line on the meter, both at speed and in idle.
The coolant reservoir was empty a little over a month ago, so I filled it up. A few days ago, I took a look at it, and it was empty again. I refit a hose that was a little loose and decided I'd just wait and see what happened after driving it some. Over the past few days, I've noticed slight decreases in the coolant level each day.
Today was no different, except that after I drove for about 15 minutes on probably the hottest day of the year so far (about 95 degrees, don't know if that matters at all), I noticed there was coolant sprayed on the hood. I opened the hood and there was quite a bit of coolant pooled on the far left of the radiator top, right between the coolant reservoir and the radiator pressure cap. What's going on here?
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I have a 2008 Miata that is new to me (<40K miles). When I first drive it in the morning it has a very noticeable bumping feel for the first couple of minutes then smooths out and is not noticeable for the rest of the day, even if I park it for a couple of hours. I believe the bumping is coming from the rear driver's side. I just replaced the tires (thinking they were flat spotted), but the problem persists.
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How to remove the "high pressure" power steering hose. I have drained the fluid, disconnected from the pump, and also from the rack. Removed the center clamp, and got it all "loose". However, I cannot seem to figure out how to "fish" the hose out. There is a long piece of metal tubing that connects into the rack, and it seems to be resting above some cross member that is not removable. Went to the library, and searched the AllData Online manuals. On the "How to replace the High Pressure Hose" page, it only showed a diagram of the power steering system, with no written description on how to remove the hose. I am not on a lift, but jacked up and supported and on my back under the car with the right wheel removed. I am stumped, and the new hose is due to arrive soon.
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Just had dealer repair shop complete power steering fluid flush in Jan 2013. Vehicle now has lost all power steering fluid (April 2013) and dealer repair shop has told me it is due to high pressure hose failure - need to replace & then verify pump condition (dealer repair shop not sure if pump bad until hose replaced to test) for repair bill.. I was told this was not related to repair shop power steering flush because this hose not removed for flush or part of that procedure (at which time a transmission flush & spark plugs replaced (minor tune-up) . Just wondering if any pro mechanic can respond with advice about the relative close time frame these two events & if there may be a probable related reason?
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I have replaced a head gasket on my 2001 civic LX recently. I have drain the coolant and put it back on again. Now I have idle issues, the car starts fine with high RPM (because it is cold) about 5 min latter the RPM changes, it revs low and high (about 2000 rpm) when it should be idling normally. I have taken the radiator cap (before i start the engine) and run it a while with the cap off to purge any air pockets, no luck. Another thing I have realized that there is a pressure build up in the upper and lower radiator hoses when it is running with the radiator cap on. How to fix this problem?
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I have an 07 Camry with a hard to turn steering wheel. I had to replace the high pressure hose from the rack due to a leak. After that I basically bled the system as one would do under normal circumstances. With the cars front wheels off the ground I turned the wheel hard left and right. The wheel did give a bit but not to the point of perfection. After many turns I put the vehicle on the ground and repeated the process. The fluid no longer leaked but the stiffness was still there.
The hose was replaced at 110,000 miles. It's currently at 112,000 miles
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I have a 2004 with the 4.6l. The high pressure hose is leaking from rust. From other posts I have read, it looks like I should rent a puller and remove the pulley first, and then I'll have access to where the hose connects to the pump.
Question: The leak occurred while driving home from vacation today. Went we stopped for gas, we noticed a shutter in the steering. I added about a 1/2 quart to the reservoir - there was still some fluid but foamy. I made it home, and I when I checked again the reservoir was empty.
Should I go ahead and replace the pump while I am at it? I wondering it if could have gotten damaged from low fluid. The truck has 190k so it's not like the pump owes me anything. Will it make any of the repair easier to toss out the pump too?
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My uncles 1999 v10 started to leak from the high-pressure hose on the gearbox. Replaced the hose which lasted for a short time but is now leaking at the same spot. The hose swivels, is this normal, seems like a dumb design for a pressure hose. Also is there a certain trick to doing this hose? He also insists on using PS fluid instead of the ATF it calls for. Could this cause a problem with the seal?
Edit: Also the truck has been lifted on 35s since 16k miles and its now roughly at 170k. He tows with it as it is his work truck. But the truck is well taken care of.
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My high pressure power steering hose just blew at the "B" nut at the pump. Meaning, the fitting is still in the pump but the line is out. Do I need to replace the whole line or is there a retainer I can swap out?
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I have a 97 Mazda and I notice that the air compressor never shuts off unless I turn the A/C off. I have checked the relay and it is fine. What other control is keeping the compressor clutch from releasing?
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1996 Mazda Protege air conditioner died today in the lovely 2nd week of Kansas heat wave of over 100 degrees each day. Was replaced in 2006.
What should be the approximate cost of the parts and labor to replace? Is it normal to have died after 8 years? It was a reconditioned one.
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My air conditioning just stopped blowing cool air. While the blower still operates properly, the air is coolest (but not nearly cool enough or normal) at the extreme right passenger vent, then is progressively warmer toward the driver's side, with the warmest vent being the extreme left at the driver's side next to door. I'm inept at mechanics in general, and especially with autos, which is why I bought the BMW (which tells you when it needs service) to begin with. The only thought I had was that I recently had the car detailed and the engine washed at the BMW dealership. Could something have come loose when power washed under the hood? I'm hesitant to take it back since my last experience was not a good one. I have of course checked all the settings.
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I have a 07' hyundai santa fe and recently I had a 10 amp fuse blow labeled A/CON and so I replaced it and it worked for about 2-3 weeks and it blew again, and so I'm getting more fuses Monday to see if it keeps working, but from what I read online it looks like the field coil is the culprit, I tried to read the ohms from the relay and got .5 kohms (which I see its supposed to be 3-4ohms) but i have a crappy multimeter and I'm not sure if that's right anyway.
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I just had a bunch of work done on the engine of my 96 f250 7.5 v8 460 and now whenever I'm going up hill, my air conditioner stops blowing from the vents and after I get back of a level ground it starts blowing again. What it could be?
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I have a 2006 honda civic lx and the air conditioner works fine when i first start the car.
However, after driving for 15-30 minutes the air conditioner starts blowing progressively warmer air, until it starts blowing warm (or even hot) air. this seems to happen when the engine gets hot.
One particular day it started raining, and suddenly the cold air kicked back in.
I took it to the dealer and they said i needed a compressor and coil for a grand total of $800. i took it for a free a/c inspection, and he said the problem might be electrical, but a visual inspection wasn't enough to figure out the problem.
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2004 Solora ... 185K Miles and after driving about 45-60 minutes the AC stops blowing cold air. The blower inside the car runs, the clutch is still engaged on the compressor yet only warm air is blowing through the vents. If the car sits overnight the AC will work again. It does not always stop after 60 minutes of driving. Sometimes I can go days driving 60 minutes at a time and the AC works the entire time. Other times it will quit after 45 minutes. When it works I have no complaints.
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1998 Ford Mondeo. Yesturday I changed my air filter and went for a drive today and realized, that air is only coming through the vents right under the windscreen. I am pretty much car literate but cant afford a mechanic... Research I've done (on the net) shows the problem has something to do with the aircon no longer blowing out of my front vents where the A/C is supposed to blow out of, instead it was blowing out of the defrost vents along the windshield. The air will blow high, med, low, cold warm, ect just only through the vents near the wind shield. It has something to do with the vacume?? and the firewall...??? Apparently??
Where to start to get my aircon working again.. Pretty positive I installed and reset the fitting for the air filter correctly. I had my bonnet up so it can cool and I could change the filter and the wind blew it down, and may have something to do with it, I cant see any damage though..
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