My high pressure power steering hose just blew at the "B" nut at the pump. Meaning, the fitting is still in the pump but the line is out. Do I need to replace the whole line or is there a retainer I can swap out?
View 14 RepliesI just replaced my 3rd HP power steering line last night( 3rd in 300K, always blows the same point....fitting comes apart where it attaches to the pump.
I'll start, mine have gone about 100K plus or minus 10K, almost thinking about making it a 100K maintenance item.
Looking for a write-up on replacing the seals on the hose that leaks at the power steering pump? I replace them once but may of over tightened them. I pour in atf and see it dripping on drivers side of power steering pump. Can I just use regular o rings?
View 5 RepliesJust had dealer repair shop complete power steering fluid flush in Jan 2013. Vehicle now has lost all power steering fluid (April 2013) and dealer repair shop has told me it is due to high pressure hose failure - need to replace & then verify pump condition (dealer repair shop not sure if pump bad until hose replaced to test) for repair bill.. I was told this was not related to repair shop power steering flush because this hose not removed for flush or part of that procedure (at which time a transmission flush & spark plugs replaced (minor tune-up) . Just wondering if any pro mechanic can respond with advice about the relative close time frame these two events & if there may be a probable related reason?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 with the 4.6l. The high pressure hose is leaking from rust. From other posts I have read, it looks like I should rent a puller and remove the pulley first, and then I'll have access to where the hose connects to the pump.
Question: The leak occurred while driving home from vacation today. Went we stopped for gas, we noticed a shutter in the steering. I added about a 1/2 quart to the reservoir - there was still some fluid but foamy. I made it home, and I when I checked again the reservoir was empty.
Should I go ahead and replace the pump while I am at it? I wondering it if could have gotten damaged from low fluid. The truck has 190k so it's not like the pump owes me anything. Will it make any of the repair easier to toss out the pump too?
Well I was fueling the truck today and I opened to hood to check it out and noticed that there was no pressure in the cooling system by squeezing the upper hose. I did have a spare degas bottle cap and removed the old one slowly and replaced. I have been driving over 30 minutes and it is close to 100 degrees.
I then drove on down the road, the truck is not getting hot. I stopped to look at some running boards and the truck was running and then I came home and still no pressure, the truck is still running, I removed the cap and no pressure, I then removed the small hose going to the top of the degas tank and no coolant came out. I turned the truck off and disconnected the upper hose and some coolant did come out.
Is this normal? The truck runs just fine, just has me worried. I just bought the truck and the previous owner recently replaced the water pump, T-stat, hoses, etc. All parts were bought at O'Reilly. So everything looks good.
How to remove the "high pressure" power steering hose. I have drained the fluid, disconnected from the pump, and also from the rack. Removed the center clamp, and got it all "loose". However, I cannot seem to figure out how to "fish" the hose out. There is a long piece of metal tubing that connects into the rack, and it seems to be resting above some cross member that is not removable. Went to the library, and searched the AllData Online manuals. On the "How to replace the High Pressure Hose" page, it only showed a diagram of the power steering system, with no written description on how to remove the hose. I am not on a lift, but jacked up and supported and on my back under the car with the right wheel removed. I am stumped, and the new hose is due to arrive soon.
View 2 RepliesI have an 07 Camry with a hard to turn steering wheel. I had to replace the high pressure hose from the rack due to a leak. After that I basically bled the system as one would do under normal circumstances. With the cars front wheels off the ground I turned the wheel hard left and right. The wheel did give a bit but not to the point of perfection. After many turns I put the vehicle on the ground and repeated the process. The fluid no longer leaked but the stiffness was still there.
The hose was replaced at 110,000 miles. It's currently at 112,000 miles
What are the most favorable low-side/high-side pressure readings for the AC when fully charged?
View 7 RepliesI noticed this evening that my low pressure oil pressure was much higher than normal. I have a LPOP gauge that typically reads 12 psi or so at idle This evening I was seeing 75psi with a warm engine. Every little acceleration pegged the gauge over 100psi.
The factory non-functioning gauge says that everything is normal.
I am about due for an oil change. I was thinking that I would change the oil and filter as soon as possible and temporarily plumb in my mechanical gauge to see if the high pressure reading is real or not. I replaced the stock LPOP about 3 years ago with a melling and everything has been golden up until now.
I just replaced my injector cups a month or so ago and also injectors with some lower mile injectors. but now 3 weeks later still not getting any pressure at icp. I have dead headed pump got 3k plus but when i block off ether head i get no pressure. i have pulled injectors and checked for orings and they are fine...
View 2 Replies'99 7.3, 258k miles, looses oil fast, oil found in coolant (though not a lot) and the fuel bowl is full of oil.
I re-ringed the oil cooler. Most of the coolant and oil is drained. The HPOP holds its oil level and does not leak down.
Someone shared the below test. Though it says #4 ORB, the actual thread on my IPR is #8. I removed the IPR and threaded in the #8ORB to air hose adapter. I regulated the pressure to 20 psi. The air is rushing out of the CCV.
I suspect I am missing something in the below test and that I'm pushing air back through the low pressure oil pump and into the crank case.
The test shared with me elsewhere:
Apparently someone named "Cody" on the forum did a test and it was labeled that way.
AIR TESTING THE HPO SYSTEM:
7.3L Powerstroke engines may experience hard start and or no start issues. In some cases the no-start issue may occur only with the engine hot. If the observed ICP pressure during cranking is less than the required 500 PSI, then the problem is in the high pressure oil system.
One of the first checks that should be made is to remove the plug from the top of the high pressure oil reservoir (in front of the fuel filter) to observe if the reservoir is full. If the oil is standing within an inch of the top of the reservoir, then the problem is in the high pressure oil system and could be caused by one of three things:
- The high pressure oil pump itself
- The IPR Valve
- A high pressure oil leak
Tools: Adaptor ORB #4, Air Compressor capable of maintaining 90-100 psig, Air Line Adaptors which will allow connection to the #4 OBR , IPR Test Harness, Grease Gun Whip or any whip with a .0625" NPT.
Remove the IPR valve and insert the ORB #4 Adaptor. Attach Shop Air and pressurize the system. Wait for approximately 30 - 60 Seconds while the air travels throughout the HPO System. Listen for air escaping through the Oil Fill Tube (cap removed).
External high pressure oil leaks would have, of course, been obvious. The primary concern is internal leaks under the valve cover(s). These could include leaking injector O-rings, or leaking injectors. Listen for any air escaping under the valve covers and correct if present.
If the center injector O-ring has failed, high pressure oil may be forced into the fuel system. Remove the fuel filter cap and observe for air bubbles in the fuel. If necessary, individual fuel lines running from the fuel filter assembly to the cylinder heads can be disconnected in order to isolate the problem to which side it is occurring.
2. 7.3L: If no air leaks are observed, the next step is to isolate whether the problem is with the IPR or the high pressure oil pump. Remove the IDM fuse or unplug the IDM or injector connectors at the valve covers to prevent starting.
3. If this test does not assist in diagnosing the issue, remove both valve covers and witness oil from the deflectors as being uniform, look closely at the injector base for any sign of air or oil escaping during test. This is an indication of a loose injector or O-Ring failure.
The same can be done at the ICP Ports (Oil Rail) on either side to determine leaking O-Rings in that Bank.
Next mods are for the fuel rail cross over and the high pressure oil cross over. I see the unused ports will come in handy.
Fuel delivery? any specialty mods to run the fuel lines? I see it's a #4 ORB fitting. Anyone ever use a "T" or a splitter off the fuel bowl to have a quad line set up?
Saw the FRx from RiffRaff .... not sure how it eliminates air from the system 7.3L Diesel Fuel Rail Crossover? (FRx) 99-03 Powerstroke
Is there one thing that when broken makes both the steering and brakes lose all power? Does the power steering and hydroboost share a pressure source?
My brake pedal is dead and I get no steering boost, but the master cylinder and PSP are full of fluid. Do I replace both, or replace one first to see if that fixes both? Or could it just be a hose leaking? Not sure how to diagnose this one.
2001 F150 Supercrew 5.4L ... Dealership unable to locate replacement pressure hose for power steering . I've returned 3 wrong parts. The hose in pic goes all the way up to the reservoir.
View 13 RepliesJust replaced power steering pressure hose while engine out as PM. New hose wasn't correct shape so I bent the tubing to fit. I later realized that I bought a hose for power steering without variable assist and the hose for variable assist looks correct.
Is there any harm in leaving the "w/o variable assist" hose in now?
The Power Steering Reservoir has a small leak that makes the area under it looks oily and messy, so i followed a member's DIY PS flush, I used Walmart Supertech ATF Dexll/lll fluid but now I am thinking about using Mobil1 Synthetic ATF once I get the reservoir out.
The new red color shoes the leak is coming from the edge of the connection between the top and bottom plastic parts of the reservoir.
so my questions are:
1- How do i remove/pry or pop the reservoir out of its bracket?
2- Can i use JB Weld epoxy to glue/reinforce them parts together or just pick a used one from junkyard?
and last question: What size ID/OD is the PS fluid low pressure hose?
Low power on my 2003 7.3 F350. The truck runs fine but I can tell it is low on power (seat of the pants). I figured it to be fuel related so changed fuel filter and oil with no change. When that didn't work I installed a fuel guage and this what I found. Key on no start fuel pressure 45 psi. Start truck the pressure will get up to 61psi. Under a load it will drop down to the low 30s. I have dropped the tank mixing chamber screens clean and so was the tank. Changed fuel pump and now under a load it drops to the high 30s. Does this sound like the fuel pressure regulator is leaking by and causing low pressure under a load? Truck is stock besides superchips 1705 programer.
View 9 RepliesI'm going to be replacing my lower radiator hose so figured might as well switch over to the extended life stuff going to probably go with the Delo ELC.. Supposedly it's good for 750k.
View 14 RepliesHad a lot to do yesterday and had stock trailer hooked up and loaded with debris.
Got 120 miles away, stopped and got the groan from hydroboost/p/s system.
The hose from the pump to the hydroboost was leaking but it was the actual seal on the fitting that gave up rather than the rubber.
Could not find the seal but luckily the Irish place had the line in stock for a reasonable place.
Transmission got hot too backing up and puked out the front seal. I was doing a lot of twisting to get the trailer in the hole.
Mine was clogged again, and I check it every month.
View 14 Replies