Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Coolant Flow - No Pressure In Cooling System By Squeezing Upper Hose
Jul 17, 2015
Well I was fueling the truck today and I opened to hood to check it out and noticed that there was no pressure in the cooling system by squeezing the upper hose. I did have a spare degas bottle cap and removed the old one slowly and replaced. I have been driving over 30 minutes and it is close to 100 degrees.
I then drove on down the road, the truck is not getting hot. I stopped to look at some running boards and the truck was running and then I came home and still no pressure, the truck is still running, I removed the cap and no pressure, I then removed the small hose going to the top of the degas tank and no coolant came out. I turned the truck off and disconnected the upper hose and some coolant did come out.
Is this normal? The truck runs just fine, just has me worried. I just bought the truck and the previous owner recently replaced the water pump, T-stat, hoses, etc. All parts were bought at O'Reilly. So everything looks good.
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Noticed this past month on colder days my upper hose is collapsed, typically a symptom of a bad radiator pressure cap.
This hose is connected from the water pump to the radiator. The radiator is connected to the Degas bottle which has a nonstandard radiator cap.
Do these plastic caps vent the same way a typical cap does?
Cap for 2011 Ford F-350 Super Duty|9C3Z-8101-B
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I don't have ready access to my truck and I'm trying to buy new cooling parts when I rip out/replace my transmission. I searched the forum but can't find the simple answer I'm looking for regarding the route of the transmission fluid for cooling.
In my 2001, I thought the fluid comes out of the transmission to the radiator, then back to the transmission from last time I was looking at it underneath. But in the forum, it sounds the fluid would come out of the radiator and then into the air cooler in front of the radiator before back to the transmission.
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My high pressure power steering hose just blew at the "B" nut at the pump. Meaning, the fitting is still in the pump but the line is out. Do I need to replace the whole line or is there a retainer I can swap out?
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IPR CF2 Byasss High Flow Coolant Filter Ford 6.0
Made for the 6.0, the biggest problem on the 7.3 might be finding real estate for the filter assembly.
One review refers to using it on a 7.3.
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I have an 03 super duty with the 6.0, came back from vacation with my 5th wheel in tow. Lost the upper turbo hose twice on way home. Managed to get it rigged and made it home and parked it. a week later went to uncouple and move the truck and had some very strange issues. Started fine but could barely make it up driveway (no trailer at this point). No power, felt like when turbo hose came off. Got it moved and checked turbo hose and all was good?? Went out a couple days later and no start.
Checked all relative fuses and relays and all checked good. Jumped starter solenoid and starter worked fine. turned key on and jumped quick connect on right side of engine compartment to battery and it fired right up and ran. Jiggled shifter around in park and neutral and nothing. BTW I always here the relay clicking and swapped with one of the others just to be sure, same thing. After looking on the internet for a day and a half thought maybe a NSS in the tranny but I think I have the 5R110 that does not apply??
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I just installed a new water pump and thermostat on my truck, and now hardly any heat? I let the truck run for almost an hour without the radiator cap on. And I added coolant back up to the full level. I took it for an almost 100 mile ride and the temp level hardly even moved off of cold? And it is hardley even blowing warm air with the heater on hi.
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Coolant flow seems to be not at its max output seems like it's blocked somewhere. Lots of pressure in bypass line of radiator after clamping of hose and releasing pressure of degas bottle?
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After chasing the smell of coolant for a couple weeks, discovered that the upper radiator hose was leaking at the engine. Based on my schedule and drive schedule, and unfamiliar location this last week, I took my truck to the last people I wanted to - the Ford dealer, where they attempted to charge for the hose replacement. During this time I discovered the nature of how these hoses work and asked the tech why they don't just replace the O-rings ... "Ford Motor Company wants to sell you a new hose with labor" - a direct quote from the Ford tech. And that is why Ford is the LAST place I want to go for repairs I cannot perform. I kept the old hose - any spot where you can get the O-rings alone?
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'99 7.3, 258k miles, looses oil fast, oil found in coolant (though not a lot) and the fuel bowl is full of oil.
I re-ringed the oil cooler. Most of the coolant and oil is drained. The HPOP holds its oil level and does not leak down.
Someone shared the below test. Though it says #4 ORB, the actual thread on my IPR is #8. I removed the IPR and threaded in the #8ORB to air hose adapter. I regulated the pressure to 20 psi. The air is rushing out of the CCV.
I suspect I am missing something in the below test and that I'm pushing air back through the low pressure oil pump and into the crank case.
The test shared with me elsewhere:
Apparently someone named "Cody" on the forum did a test and it was labeled that way.
AIR TESTING THE HPO SYSTEM:
7.3L Powerstroke engines may experience hard start and or no start issues. In some cases the no-start issue may occur only with the engine hot. If the observed ICP pressure during cranking is less than the required 500 PSI, then the problem is in the high pressure oil system.
One of the first checks that should be made is to remove the plug from the top of the high pressure oil reservoir (in front of the fuel filter) to observe if the reservoir is full. If the oil is standing within an inch of the top of the reservoir, then the problem is in the high pressure oil system and could be caused by one of three things:
- The high pressure oil pump itself
- The IPR Valve
- A high pressure oil leak
Tools: Adaptor ORB #4, Air Compressor capable of maintaining 90-100 psig, Air Line Adaptors which will allow connection to the #4 OBR , IPR Test Harness, Grease Gun Whip or any whip with a .0625" NPT.
Remove the IPR valve and insert the ORB #4 Adaptor. Attach Shop Air and pressurize the system. Wait for approximately 30 - 60 Seconds while the air travels throughout the HPO System. Listen for air escaping through the Oil Fill Tube (cap removed).
External high pressure oil leaks would have, of course, been obvious. The primary concern is internal leaks under the valve cover(s). These could include leaking injector O-rings, or leaking injectors. Listen for any air escaping under the valve covers and correct if present.
If the center injector O-ring has failed, high pressure oil may be forced into the fuel system. Remove the fuel filter cap and observe for air bubbles in the fuel. If necessary, individual fuel lines running from the fuel filter assembly to the cylinder heads can be disconnected in order to isolate the problem to which side it is occurring.
2. 7.3L: If no air leaks are observed, the next step is to isolate whether the problem is with the IPR or the high pressure oil pump. Remove the IDM fuse or unplug the IDM or injector connectors at the valve covers to prevent starting.
3. If this test does not assist in diagnosing the issue, remove both valve covers and witness oil from the deflectors as being uniform, look closely at the injector base for any sign of air or oil escaping during test. This is an indication of a loose injector or O-Ring failure.
The same can be done at the ICP Ports (Oil Rail) on either side to determine leaking O-Rings in that Bank.
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I just did a pressure check on the cooling system on my 04 6 liter. It reached 16lbs towing an enclosed trailer and into a strong head wind. I was just wondering what's the Normal pressure suppose to be, or is there a Normal pressure. I'm using the new style cap with the larger spring in it and it didn't kick any coolant out.
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This weekend while towing a light load I noticed my FWT and EOT starting to climb rapidly, EOT reached 260 FWT I think about 240. I exited the interstate to find I had a busted radiator hose. I replaced the hose and filled the system with distilled water, but didn't add antifreeze at this time. The system wasn't completely empty.
I noticed once back on the road my EOT seemed to be higher than normal but FWT seemed to be normal. Could the lack of antifreeze cause a greater delta between FWT and EOT? I have seen articles which state do not use Ford Premium Gold Coolant, but to use CAT EL-1 coolant instead. Which should I use?
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Is it possible to use so much coolant system stop leak that you could clog the transmission cooling system?The fluid is burned and seems like I am having problems with gear shifting and power from the transmission. 2003 Olds Silhouette...
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I have recently replaced both tie rod ends and found out when I took my truck for an alignment the mechanic stated that I had bad driver side ball joints (upper & lower) I confirmed this with SEARS and they stated that it was all the ball joints upper & lowers! the Haynes repair manual (1999-2010) states "ball joints on 1999 through 2013 2WD models were not replaceable".
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Looking for a write-up on replacing the seals on the hose that leaks at the power steering pump? I replace them once but may of over tightened them. I pour in atf and see it dripping on drivers side of power steering pump. Can I just use regular o rings?
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I have a 2001 f350 7.3 diesel and want some info... I am switching out the air intake and thinking about the Banks package.. How does it can be compared? Also, I am dealing with an issue of a dual generator upper and lower fault codes.. I only have a single generator system and it is running strong as far as I can see.. When I start it shows 12.9 and then raises to 14 when running.. Stays there the entire run...
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I've done some searching on this site and found some good information but I still have some questions about Fuel Pressure and fuel flow. A few months back when I had a bad injector and bubble tested to verify and it took around 15 seconds to fill the bowl(filter removed) from near empty is that normal or the sign of a healthy HFCM?
Tonight I was able to check the fuel pressure for the first time and when I turned the key on fuel pressure was slow to build for 2-3 seconds held at 20 psi then spiked up to 62psi and stayed at that psi during the starting cycle and held steady during idle. Is it acceptable to hesitate with a pressure build at the beginning of the cycle?
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I am going to install a coolant filter on my 2004 6.0 E350 van. I have read threads about bypass filters and full flow filters and I started asking myself "Why use a bypass when I can filter all of the coolant?"
Is there any reason why someone should use a bypass filter? I bought the van used knowing I would eventually have to do most if not all of the 6.0 repairs. IPR sells a complete coolant filter.
I talked with the people at FICM repair and they suggested I do my research but leaned towards the IPR cooler. Ed spent a good 30 minutes on the phone answering all my questions and never asked if I wanted to buy anything. If anything, he was trying to stop me from throwing money at the van until I isolated what needs to be repaired.
I already bought the Sinister Kit and requested a return.
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I'm going to be replacing my lower radiator hose so figured might as well switch over to the extended life stuff going to probably go with the Delo ELC.. Supposedly it's good for 750k.
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Had a lot to do yesterday and had stock trailer hooked up and loaded with debris.
Got 120 miles away, stopped and got the groan from hydroboost/p/s system.
The hose from the pump to the hydroboost was leaking but it was the actual seal on the fitting that gave up rather than the rubber.
Could not find the seal but luckily the Irish place had the line in stock for a reasonable place.
Transmission got hot too backing up and puked out the front seal. I was doing a lot of twisting to get the trailer in the hole.
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Mine was clogged again, and I check it every month.
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