Mercury - Mountaineer :: 2007 - Ticking Under The Hood Increases And Decreases With RPM
Apr 3, 2014
My parents have a 2007 Mercury Mountaineer, 100,845 miles. They change oil like a religion. It has under the hood ticking that increases and decreases with RPM. The ticking (tickity-tickity) sounds like when there is low oil. People have said,"You better put oil in there..."The oil is full. I can't tell if the sound is coming from inside the engine, or if something on the engine might be loose that is causing the ticking as the engine RPM changes. From what I can remember from auto shop in the 80's...it kind of sounds like valves/lifters.
Also, it has a strange road noise that I think is coming from the tires. It sounds and sort of feels like riding on knobby off road tires. I can put it in neutral and turn off the engine, and the noise remains and decreases as the speed does, so it is not from the engine.
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2007 Camry LE 2.4
I just replaced the rear pads and rotors with no issues other than having to bang the cr@p out of the left rotor with a hammer to get it to come off. Now at pretty much all speeds I am hearing a rythmic humming-type sound that increases and decreases with vehicle speed. It's not a constant hum but more like one-hum-per-tire-revolution type of sound. It is coming from the left side as far as I can tell.
Thinking I had damaged the wheel bearing (and after searching the forums extensively) I replaced it with a brand new bearing from Advance Auto Parts. I re-checked the pads, rotors, all bolts, everything is lubricated properly, etc. Just took it out for a test drive and the noise is still there. Sometimes it gets louder when breaking but not always. I rotated tires and the sound did not follow the tire. The pads aren't stuck or rubbing excessively as far as I can tell.
This sort of thing has happened in the past on the left rear. It would sometimes happen when I swapped the summer tires for my winter tires on steelies, the left rear would make the humming sound, I'd take the wheel off and put it back on 180 degrees rotated and the sound would go away. I've done that a few times too and it has not worked.
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I love my 2003 Honda CR-V and it works perfectly except for the cruise control. It may work for 5 miles or 200 miles, but at some point while riding along just fine the car bucks, decreases and then increases speed, and then the cruise disengages. Once this happens, it takes a long time for the cruise control to take hold again. This is an intermittent problem and almost impossible for a mechanic to figure out. I'd love to solve this mystery as I plan to keep this car for at least 300,000 miles! I'm only up to 179,000.
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I have a problem with my 2006 Sante Fe. When driving (at all speeds) my SF has developed a "cyclical", repetitive whining sound in the engine compartment that directly corresponds with the speed of the car. The "revolutions" of the sound are slow at slow speeds and very high pitched and fast at high speeds.
It happens at all speeds, with or without throttle being applied. I do NOT hear it when the car is in park or in neutral and I rev the engine so it has something to do with the rotations of the wheels/axles/drive shaft/gears or something that rotates in synch with how fast the car is going. I still hear it when coasting.
We recently put on new tires a few months back and I thought maybe it was just the sound of the new tread on the road but now I am almost positive this sound is coming from somewhere in the engine compartment. It is possible that it is coming from under the car but the problem is a can't confirm that because I only hear the sound when the car is moving. So far, it's just an annoying sound, it does not affect the performance of the car.
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1998 Lexus LS400, ~130k miles, town driving, auto shift.~35mph develops fine vibration with accompanying hum. Both increase when speed up. Hum develops a harmonic and shaking increases to almost a shutter.decreases or stops when release accelerator.
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This week I noticed a sound that sounds low that increases then the vehicle goes faster and decreases when it slows down. It is not wheel bearing noise. Took a doctors type scope and put it on the pulleys listening for the bearing noise in each pulley and found my alternator pulley making more noise than usual, My car needs new accessory belts so I ordered 3 new belts and will be replacing them soon. I am hoping the noise is from worn belts and not the alternator. If it is the alternator its going to cost me 250 bucks for a rebuilt one. I'm not sure if I can tear the alternator apart and replace the part bearing part. Have to look into this. Is this normal for a car with 161 thousand klm for accessory belt bearings on items to start to go bad? I sure hope the water pump and power steering and ac compressor and ac tensioner last. These all have bearings in them as well.
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When sitting in traffic the idle decreases normally, the lights dim somewhat, the blowers slow a bit, the digital clock will begin to "quiver or flicker" and the car will shut off. It will start right back up. I have a new battery and have a reconditioned alternator (about 2 years ago.) I have had to the mechanic shop and they tell me it is not the alternator. Had an electronic ignition added in 2010 (obviously not factory with the original car) to the car and had that turned off a couple of weeks ago, which seemed to give it new life. Then it turned really cold again and have noticed the flickering and the feeling that the car wants to die when sitting in traffic. What could be wrong with the car? One time when the car died it set the clock back to 12:00.
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I have a 2005 Mercury Mariner, 136K miles, 2.3L 4-cyl engine. I am experiencing a noise that is barely audible at 50mph, but increases at around 60-65mph. It is an intermittent "rrrrrr......rrrrrr.....rrrrrrr" (don't you hate people that describe things like this?) and I can sometimes feel a vibration on the gas pedal and also on the drivers side floorboard. And, maybe related, maybe not, every now and again it is a little "stickier" than it used to be when shifting into park.
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I took my car in for an oil change and they said I should get the fuel injector and upper intake manifold and valve cleaning treatment. When I picked up the car I noticed a rattle or low pitched ticking sound coming from under the hood. The car has an automatic transmission and the noise frequency increases and decreases with the rpm's. It only happens with the car in "drive". For the seasoned followers, it sounds like the sound we got from fastening baseball cards onto our bike frames to make noise as the wheels turned - just describing the sound. When I took it back to the Mini dealership in Phoenix (who shall remain anonymous), they said I needed a new transmission.
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MY Ls460 2010 AWD is making annoying ticking noise since I bought it 2 months ago ( 76k milage ) , it seems that the sound is mainly coming under the hood on right front fender side .
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So my engine light came on a few months ago. Shortly after white smoke came out of the tailpipe and it smelked like gas. Hooked the truck to a code reader and it was showing codes for spark plugs misfireing and 02 sensor. So my husband had someone change a few sparkplugs and a coil pack. They start it up after that and still doing the same thing. The guy checks the oil and says getvrid of this thing cuz your motor Is blown. Now I couldbt believe that because there was no knocking and the engine sounded fine. Anyway we get it home and leave it. A few days later we try to start it and it wont start. Then the battery starts dying out.
I take the battery to be tested and it needed to be charged but wasn't bad. So we jump the truck and it starts but won't stay running. Someone looks at it and says you have gas in your oil its your headgasket. Unwilling to accept that I have someone look at it. He gets it running and seems to burn all that gas out because eventually the oil doesn't smell of gas and the smoke was going away. So I decide its worth taking it to a shop and hope its something minor. Mechanic calls me says I know what it is. You need a fuel pump, your regulators are sticking...new fuel pump everything will be fine. My truck still won't start and its doing the same thing. If you jump it it will start then stall. They said its running so rich the gas is coming out the tailpipe. So again they know what it is the ecm. They try a used one and it doesn't take. Now I think they don't know. I tow my truck out of there. Try and jump it and nothing. No turn over.
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I have a 1997 Mercurey Mountaineer 5.0. In the morning it has no spark. If I disconnect the negative battery cable for 45 minutes or so and reconnect it, then it has spark and starts and will start and run perfectly every time all day. When it sits overhight, no spark. Same story every day.
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2002 Merc Mountaineer, 135K miles: I've been taking my car to the local town tire shop for years for my regularly scheduled maintenace. Just the usual oil changes, tire rotations, etc. If they saw some minor adjustments needed, they would just take care of it. About 2 years ago, when the economy tanked, they started hitting you with "The Form" - a checklist of all the recommendations needed for your car. For the past 3 oil changes, they said your brake fluid is black and needs to be flushed. Never heard of this so I always declined. Last week I dropped the car off for an oil change and planned to pick it up later that afternoon. I got the call about 2 hours later, and you know when you get a call before you expect, they always have found something wrong. This time it was "the brake fluid is really, really black" and needs to be flushed. I caved in and said OK do it and it was one of those XX.99 prices. Is this a needed maintenance or did I get flushed?
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Recently found with the cold snap on the east coast that my vehicle wasn't getting heat to the passenger compartment. I changed my thermostat and added a gallon of 50/50 antifreeze to the radiator coolant container. What the next step I should try?
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What would be the cause of a thumping noise coming from the right rear (pasenger side)side of the SUV. As I speed up is gets louder and faster. Check the tire it looks ok. Didn't check the other side of it.
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I have a 2000 Mercury Mountaineer 5.0L V8. Recently it has developed a squeak in one of the pulley wheels. I think it is the middle one but it may be the alternator. My question is can I change these pulleys or do I even need to? My mechanic said its nothing to worry about but I am of the opinion that bad news does not get better with age. A squeak indicates that something is not right.
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A family member said that the front ball bearings are bad. This is what is going on; when I am driving and release the gas pedal and/or brake pedal, it jerks. When I am turning, left or right, to park in a parking space, it sounds and feels like the tire is going to break (when turning right to park, right tire; turning in left, left tire). I don't want to get taken advantage of when I go to a mechanic.
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I have a 1999 Mercury Mountaineer 5.0L V8. It just recently began acting up. After warming up the engine goes through heavy power loss and inability to climb ANY hill. Usually cannot get above 30-35. I just recently replaced plugs and wires for a tune up and a faulty coil pack (approximately 5-6 weeks ago) causing a misfire on 8. Today in troubleshooting I attempted the "Backyard Mechanic" trick of unplugging the MAF sensor and took it down the road, no change at all in acceleration issues or on idle, truck runs the same. Unable to spot any exhaust or vacuum leaks or issues, recently cleaned MAF housing and changed Air Filter as well. All of these issues arose after a heavy ice storm, do not know if this had any impact or was just bad timing.
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I recently got my oil changed & the auto body shop told me that my coolant is leaking and that I needed to fix it ($800) I took my car to private mechanic and he said I was simply missing a cap, replaced it & that the issue would be resolved. After driving it for a few weeks I can tell there is still a problem, I hear a hissing noise, on the passenger side that appears only while accelerating & after I turn the car off (for about 5 seconds). Also, after I turn off the heat I hear a loud gush of air for a few seconds. The car is slower to accelerate these days.
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On my 2005 Merc Mountaineer AWD, I've had the fuel pump and fuel filter replaced, crankshaft sensor, ECM relay for the fuel pump, starter, and spark plugs replaced, but to no avail. Car starts when it wants to, but when it doesn't, it'll usually take three to ten minutes of cranking on and off before it fires up. Ford dealership and second repair shop confirmed no fuel pressure to the fuel pump when the vehicle doesn't want to start and recommended a new fuel pump. Problem is, I've already paid the first repair shop for that same service and its gone back to them three times. Could this be electrical as the first shop is now claiming or are multiple mechanics missing something? Second shop replaced the ECM relay out of caution, but the problem persists.
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My girlfriends son and friend were driving my girlfriends 05 mountaineer when all of a sudden they lost power to windows, gas gauge, radio and map lights. After doing some research, fuse # 17 is blown and keeps blowing when trying to change. I believe it has to do with Battery Saver Relay. All other fuses are fine. Multiple websites says to start disconnection everything running on that fuse.
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