Mercury - Mountaineer :: 2002 - Brake Fluid Is Flushing?
Apr 27, 2011
2002 Merc Mountaineer, 135K miles: I've been taking my car to the local town tire shop for years for my regularly scheduled maintenace. Just the usual oil changes, tire rotations, etc. If they saw some minor adjustments needed, they would just take care of it. About 2 years ago, when the economy tanked, they started hitting you with "The Form" - a checklist of all the recommendations needed for your car. For the past 3 oil changes, they said your brake fluid is black and needs to be flushed. Never heard of this so I always declined. Last week I dropped the car off for an oil change and planned to pick it up later that afternoon. I got the call about 2 hours later, and you know when you get a call before you expect, they always have found something wrong. This time it was "the brake fluid is really, really black" and needs to be flushed. I caved in and said OK do it and it was one of those XX.99 prices. Is this a needed maintenance or did I get flushed?
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What is the process for flushing the brake fluid for a 2007 or any other year from the Lexus Service Manual for our cars? I have read what I believe is the correct process on various threads but would prefer to read the service manual directly.
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Car has 125,000 miles. Not sure if the brake fluid has ever been flushed, despite brake jobs in the past 5 years. I do not have the manual so not sure if it even addresses frequency of flushing the brake lines. None of the invoices mention it. Last checkup in Aprl recommends flushing brakes.
Lots of posts on Cartalk about flushing in general, but not anything for my Mazda 1996 Protege.
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2002 Mountaineer, suddenly started making a loud clicking noise driver side front. Seldom in reverse. Struts and axle look good, nothing hanging down.
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I have a 2002 Mercury Mountaineer with 150K+ miles on it. Lately the transmission seems "rough" as in it seems to 'thud' randomly when I step on the gas while cruising. I think it's trying to change gears, but I'm not sure. It runs okay, but I feel like I should start thinking about rebuilding the transmission. I have access to a full set of tools and mechanics on hand and about a weeks worth of time. Think I can do it?
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I have been negligent regarding the timeliness of replacing my transmission fluid on my 2007 Honda CRV. Have 70K miles without changing and was told by the dealership that it should be drained and refilled because it was no longer pinkish in color and was brown. I asked about flushing and they said something about the pressure may damage the "celenoids?" and cause the transmission to not shift smoothly. I asked 2 different mechanics at local gas stations and they each said to flush it (although one said that if the fluid was black he wouldn't advise flushing and just replace, and the other said that if over 100K, that flushing could cause the transmission not to shift smoothly).
The dealership wanted 120 to drain and replace, the gas station mechanics want approx 240 to flush.
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So my engine light came on a few months ago. Shortly after white smoke came out of the tailpipe and it smelked like gas. Hooked the truck to a code reader and it was showing codes for spark plugs misfireing and 02 sensor. So my husband had someone change a few sparkplugs and a coil pack. They start it up after that and still doing the same thing. The guy checks the oil and says getvrid of this thing cuz your motor Is blown. Now I couldbt believe that because there was no knocking and the engine sounded fine. Anyway we get it home and leave it. A few days later we try to start it and it wont start. Then the battery starts dying out.
I take the battery to be tested and it needed to be charged but wasn't bad. So we jump the truck and it starts but won't stay running. Someone looks at it and says you have gas in your oil its your headgasket. Unwilling to accept that I have someone look at it. He gets it running and seems to burn all that gas out because eventually the oil doesn't smell of gas and the smoke was going away. So I decide its worth taking it to a shop and hope its something minor. Mechanic calls me says I know what it is. You need a fuel pump, your regulators are sticking...new fuel pump everything will be fine. My truck still won't start and its doing the same thing. If you jump it it will start then stall. They said its running so rich the gas is coming out the tailpipe. So again they know what it is the ecm. They try a used one and it doesn't take. Now I think they don't know. I tow my truck out of there. Try and jump it and nothing. No turn over.
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I have a 1997 Mercurey Mountaineer 5.0. In the morning it has no spark. If I disconnect the negative battery cable for 45 minutes or so and reconnect it, then it has spark and starts and will start and run perfectly every time all day. When it sits overhight, no spark. Same story every day.
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Recently found with the cold snap on the east coast that my vehicle wasn't getting heat to the passenger compartment. I changed my thermostat and added a gallon of 50/50 antifreeze to the radiator coolant container. What the next step I should try?
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What would be the cause of a thumping noise coming from the right rear (pasenger side)side of the SUV. As I speed up is gets louder and faster. Check the tire it looks ok. Didn't check the other side of it.
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I have a 2000 Mercury Mountaineer 5.0L V8. Recently it has developed a squeak in one of the pulley wheels. I think it is the middle one but it may be the alternator. My question is can I change these pulleys or do I even need to? My mechanic said its nothing to worry about but I am of the opinion that bad news does not get better with age. A squeak indicates that something is not right.
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A family member said that the front ball bearings are bad. This is what is going on; when I am driving and release the gas pedal and/or brake pedal, it jerks. When I am turning, left or right, to park in a parking space, it sounds and feels like the tire is going to break (when turning right to park, right tire; turning in left, left tire). I don't want to get taken advantage of when I go to a mechanic.
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I have a 1999 Mercury Mountaineer 5.0L V8. It just recently began acting up. After warming up the engine goes through heavy power loss and inability to climb ANY hill. Usually cannot get above 30-35. I just recently replaced plugs and wires for a tune up and a faulty coil pack (approximately 5-6 weeks ago) causing a misfire on 8. Today in troubleshooting I attempted the "Backyard Mechanic" trick of unplugging the MAF sensor and took it down the road, no change at all in acceleration issues or on idle, truck runs the same. Unable to spot any exhaust or vacuum leaks or issues, recently cleaned MAF housing and changed Air Filter as well. All of these issues arose after a heavy ice storm, do not know if this had any impact or was just bad timing.
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I recently got my oil changed & the auto body shop told me that my coolant is leaking and that I needed to fix it ($800) I took my car to private mechanic and he said I was simply missing a cap, replaced it & that the issue would be resolved. After driving it for a few weeks I can tell there is still a problem, I hear a hissing noise, on the passenger side that appears only while accelerating & after I turn the car off (for about 5 seconds). Also, after I turn off the heat I hear a loud gush of air for a few seconds. The car is slower to accelerate these days.
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On my 2005 Merc Mountaineer AWD, I've had the fuel pump and fuel filter replaced, crankshaft sensor, ECM relay for the fuel pump, starter, and spark plugs replaced, but to no avail. Car starts when it wants to, but when it doesn't, it'll usually take three to ten minutes of cranking on and off before it fires up. Ford dealership and second repair shop confirmed no fuel pressure to the fuel pump when the vehicle doesn't want to start and recommended a new fuel pump. Problem is, I've already paid the first repair shop for that same service and its gone back to them three times. Could this be electrical as the first shop is now claiming or are multiple mechanics missing something? Second shop replaced the ECM relay out of caution, but the problem persists.
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My parents have a 2007 Mercury Mountaineer, 100,845 miles. They change oil like a religion. It has under the hood ticking that increases and decreases with RPM. The ticking (tickity-tickity) sounds like when there is low oil. People have said,"You better put oil in there..."The oil is full. I can't tell if the sound is coming from inside the engine, or if something on the engine might be loose that is causing the ticking as the engine RPM changes. From what I can remember from auto shop in the 80's...it kind of sounds like valves/lifters.
Also, it has a strange road noise that I think is coming from the tires. It sounds and sort of feels like riding on knobby off road tires. I can put it in neutral and turn off the engine, and the noise remains and decreases as the speed does, so it is not from the engine.
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My girlfriends son and friend were driving my girlfriends 05 mountaineer when all of a sudden they lost power to windows, gas gauge, radio and map lights. After doing some research, fuse # 17 is blown and keeps blowing when trying to change. I believe it has to do with Battery Saver Relay. All other fuses are fine. Multiple websites says to start disconnection everything running on that fuse.
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The instrument cluster in my 2005 Mountaineer has been randomly "failing" for about 2 months. By "failing", I mean the gauges will go to zero and bounce, the dash lights will go on and off, and the radio will go out. The car will continue driving normally. Headlights stay on, windows work, cruise works, interior lights work. This random event lasts about 4 seconds. It may do it again within minutes, or not again for the day. Sometimes, when I open the car door to get in (keys not in ignition), I will notice the gauges are bouncing at the zero mark. I took it to the shop, but of course it didn't do it there. They checked the alternator and battery. Battery is old, but checked out. A few weeks later, complete Alternator failure. Replaced the battery and alternator and I hoped that would solve the dash issue, but it did not. I've had it to the dealership, and to an independent, and their not sure what's up with it. The code readers give no insight.
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So I have an 06 mercury mountaineer it was making a rubbing noise from the rear left tire area so I replaced the bearing took the merc for a test drive and as soon as I applied pressure to the accelerator the TCS kicked off all power and it left like the brakes on the front left engaged (accompanied by some nasty grinding noises). I have taken it apart replaced the hub assembly and the cv axle, nothing looks to be out of place and everything is clean I cant think of anything else it could be..
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I have a 1999 Mercury Mountaineer with 315,000 miles and pleased to say it’s a great car. Although in recent years during hot days the A/C doesn't blow cold at lower speeds or in traffic. It didn't do this when it was new say 200,000 miles. I checked the coolant charge at it remains fine no leaks, I think at at some point my mechanic did a conversion to the new refrigerant R something. What can I do to keep the A/C blowing cold at lower rpms? I have to add that it will also start blowing warm while driving down the interstate as well.
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I have a '06 Mercury Mountaineer, right over 100,000 miles. For the past few months the car has started to make a sound and even produce an "clunk" that I can feel when I am slowing down to come to a stop. It only happens when I slow down to around 3-4mph or slower. The transmission has only around 10,000 miles on it. What could be causing this?
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