Mitsubishi - Diamante :: 2003 - Slight Cold Knock On Right Side Of Engine
Jun 29, 2015
I have a 2003 Mitsubishi Diamante that I have owned since 2008 purchased it with 60,000 miles on it. Currently has 131,000 miles. I have always kept my car in good running condition and performed all of the scheduled maintenance per the owners manual. Last month I noticed a slight cold knock on the right side of the engine that would go away when the engine warmed up. I checked the oil and noticed that it was a little bit low (maybe half a cm below the lower threshold on the dip stick). I added oil and continued to drive it, still knocking.
Bought some sea foam thinking it was the lifters and sprayed a can in the intake and poured some in the oil. Then changed oil with 5w-30 synthetic, have been driving it for about 500 miles now and the cold knock seems to be getting worse and I can faintly smell burning oil when it is idling as I let it warm up before driving off. By the time I get to work the knock is essentially gone. My oil levels have been fine... My question is, should I be explaining to my wife and fiscally responsible self, that I need to be looking for a new (read used) truck sooner than I had initially planned? Or, is this something that can/should be addressed or just drive it until it gives out...
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I have a 2002 Mitsubishi Diamante LS. I know I know, but I am a poor student (emphasizing poor), and this car is paid off. Anyway, A couple months ago I drove through a puddle, water splashed up into the engine area and my car died. I was able to start it an hour later (after it dried out, I guess) Since then, there have been a couple times that it wouldn't start right away, it took a good 20 minutes for the car to start after the initial try, both of these times have been after a heavy rain. And now, occasionally, I smell a slight electric burning odor. I replaced the battery after the "driving through the puddle" incident. I just hit 80,000 miles. Obviously there is one or more issues I need to deal with.
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My car makes a ticking noise as soon as I turn the key to the 'on' position. The ticking continues once the engine begins running and stops shortly afterward (maybe 10 - 15 seconds). I'll attach a video of the ticking after the car is already running. I've checked the service light. It is the catalytic converter. I'm pretty sure this is a separate problem, but am not sure what is causing it.
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My 2011 Camry LE I4 with 21k miles has a slight knock after cold startup, at Idle for a few minutes that disappears after warming up. If you start and drive and don't let it warm up the knock, under load, is more pronounced.
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I have a 95 Mitsubishi diamante es 3.0 sohc auto trans. it idles rough i have replaced plugs wires cap rotor button air filter and fuel filter. checked the timming belt ok checked the fuel pressure it is 40 psi the book calls for 38 psi. if i rev it up to 2000 rpm's it smoothes out.
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Two mechanics have told me that I need the valve cover gasket in my car replaced. I have all of the classic signs of needing one--the smoke coming from under the hood, the drops of oil on the pavement after the car is parked for a few minutes, etc. The problem is that I won't have the money until around Memorial Day. I drive about 300 miles a week. How desperate a repair is this, and what are the signs that I need to have it fixed immediately?
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i have a 1994 mitsubishi diamante 3.0 sohc hard to start and idles real rough. it has new plugs,wires,cap,rotor button,fuel filter,and air filter.fuel pressure is between 45 and 50psi which is good i have good compression on all cylinders timing belt is good and i am getting spark to all plugs. with the car running i pull the plug wires off and cylinders 1 3 5 makes a difference but 2 4 6 their is no change.the car was setting for two years.it dose have new gas.the check engine light is not on and has no codes.
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2002 Diamante, Passenger side seatbelt became stuck and started smoking after the door was "slammed" shut. Need to know if this can be fixed or am I going to have to ride in the back seat?
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Specs: 2003 Ranger Edge / 3.0 V6 / 5-speed 4WD / 238,000 miles
Yesterday my truck was in the shop for repair. Intake gasket, Transmission fluid change, all heater hoses, thermostat, serp belt and coolant flush. When I picked it up from the shop, which was after closing, I noticed a knocking on start up. From past experience on a different truck, it sounds like a cam that isn't oiling. After a few minutes the knock goes away. I drove for a few miles, turned off the engine and started it back up and no knock this time. This morning I started it, knock was back but went away after a few minutes. Oil was changed about 1500 miles ago. Running pennzoil 5/20 with a K&N filter. Up until yesterday the engine has been completely quiet. Was wonder if something may have clogged the filter or the drain back valve.
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04 Touareg VR6 7k miles. Noticed a slight engine knock when driving very slowly such as through a parking lot when you vary engine speed between 1500 and 2000 rpm? You can not hear it if when the window is down, or radio is on, it has to be very quiet. I think it may have been here all along and I just never happened to be idling around with no radio.
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I have a 2000 F-150 xlt off road with a 5.4. I have owned the truck since 2001. The truck has 170K miles on it and I change the oil between 3-4K miles. The last couple oil changes I have I have noticed I haven't been draining as much out as I usually do, this past oil change was about 3 quarts low. I thought it was very odd. The truck runs great and does not smoke or leak oil.
This morning I got in and noticed a tick or slight knock, thought maybe it needed warmed up. After a minute. I shut it off and checked the oil, to my surprise there was next to no in the engine! This has me very worried now. I haven't checked my coolant since last oil change so I'm not sure if that's where it's going. Where to start looking, I'm missing like 5 quarts of oil in 3300 miles. Again the truck run great and does not smoke at all. I was getting ready to change it this weekend, always run high millage 5w-30.
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I've got a 2003 f150 with the 5.4 and 128,000 miles with an engine tick. Its not an exhaust leak I know that for sure. It has came up in the last 20,000 miles. I've used motorcraft 5 20 w/ motorcraft filter. I've tried a kreen engine treatment with no change. Heres the description/syptoms:
-Slight clatter for 2-3 seconds upon cold startup (happens very rarely)
-top end ticking that is loudest and most noticable when warm (quieter when motors cold)
-not timing chains/tensioners etc because the noise is coming from the top end and most noticeable on the passenger side.
-at idle the tick is present-when you rev at idle, the noise goes away.
-Driving (or having the engine under any load for that matter) the noise gets louder.
-Anytime I accelerate, tow/haul, go up an incline the noise gets worse
-Sounds like a "whirring" sound from within the dash.
With all that said I am thinking the lash adjusters are getting noisy. I had a certified gm tech that has 40 yrs mechanic experience under his belt and builds prostreet muscle cars on the side look at it. He listened to it to it and that was his diagnosis as well as its not that bad so just live with it. The noise at idle doesn't bother me, its when im driving with the windows down. The noise drives me crazy and is a little annoying to me.
Heres a link to a video of the sound and keep in mind it is much louder now : Triton engine noise/tick - YouTube
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My 98 Mitsubishi Carisma (similar to a Lancer) has a problem when engine cold, the engine seems to hesitate and sputter, and if I try to put it in gear it will only go very slowly. Once the engine is warmed up enough the problem goes away, whats causing this? Its an old car and I don't want to spend a lot to repair it.
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When I put on the cold air in my 2003 Mitsubishi Galant, after it's on for a while, I start smelling something sweet like syrup. I haven't noticed it when the air's not on and I don't know how long it's been happening because my sister's been using my car since 2008. It seems to be coming from the front, but I'm not really sure. what this is (is it coolant?), is it dangerous, and how much it should be to fix?
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I have a 2006 Corolla LE with about 93,600 miles.
It was about 16 degrees Fahrenheit this morning and I drove on a cold start, and noticed the engine knock a bit when idling. Later noticed check engine light come on. After the car fully warmed up, 15 minutes later, the knocking seemed to subside.
I don't think I've replaced the spark plugs in the longest time, so could it be this issue?
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I finally made a recording (attached), I would suggest listening to it with headphones if possible. The noise I'm referring to is featured between the 0:28 and 1:00 marks. You can hear it again from about 1:10 to 1:25.
Just to recap:
2014 GX Premium pkg.
4400 miles
93 Octane always
The sequence of events is such:
1- Car is parked overnight in garage, air temperature is 60 degrees or less
2- Start car, pull out of garage
3- Put car in D
4- Drive to stop sign at end of street
5- The transmission downshifts and engine revs slightly as the car comes to a stop
6- After sitting at the stop for a few seconds, foot on brake, engine at idle, it starts to make that thumping/clunk noise
7- Noise stops once I start moving again, and does not come back once the engine is warmed up
Note: This happens whenever the temperature is 60 degrees or below and the engine is cold/car has been sitting overnight. All accessory systems were shut off for this recording/demonstration (no A/C or heat running, no radio or other accessories on).
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I recently bought a 2011 460 L, CPO with 28,350 miles. I love the looks and how it drives, smooth! But I do have a concern. Before I go to the dealer I thought I would educate myself from the experienced LS owners. I am hearing a very brief (1-2 seconds) mild engine knock at a cold startup.
This only occurs when the engine is cold and has sat overnight. It never happens after this first startup, even after turning the engine off and then on again. It kinda sounds like the oil isn't getting where it should be for a few seconds. Engine sounds great with normal and hard acceleration throughout the day. The dealership where I bought it is 300 miles away, so I would be taking it to a local dealership.
Now I did hear this noise and mentioned it to the service manager when I first bought the car, and the service manager told me that this cold startup sound is normal. He also mentioned the direct injectors at idle. I guess sometimes it's hard to fully trust what dealerships say. Is he right?
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It almost sounds like somebody is taking a small hammer and banging at the plastic cover on top the engine when the vehicle is started new from cold. After about 8 or 9 knocks it goes away.
Taking it to a dealer soon to get it checked.
2010 Model year. 81k miles.
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There was a TSB for 2AR engine, Engine Knock/Rattle Noise at Cold Startup. My question is for those I4 camry owner, do you have these rattle sound when you start your vehicle at cold? I am not sure if mines have the same issue, but pretty sure is I can't find any differences between mine and this clip:
You Tube
So should I take it to the dealer? Or it's normal?
[URL] .....
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I have a 1964 Lincoln Continental convertible that has an intermittent engine knock on the drivers’ side; it isn’t there when the engine is cold and does it only sporadically when it’s hot. The car was not driven for many years; when I bought it in 2010 the plates on the car expired in February 1974.
I’ve tried high octane fuel, lead additives, and heavier motor oil; the problem is a little better, but it still happens. What the cause and the solution is?
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My car is an 08 AWD 3.3 I am noticing the engine will do a slight rev up, down, up, down when cold almost daily when I leave work in the afternoons.
I removed the airbox and intake tubing, cleaned the throttle body with TB cleaner and mass air sensor with electronics cleaner. I also used about half of a bottle of seafoam in one of the vacuum lines to the engine, and the other half in the fuel tank. Also ran some Chevron fuel system cleaner in the fuel tank. Nothing seemed to make a difference. It still persists.
It's noticeable the most in neutral, you can watch the tach rev up from 800 rpm to about 1100 and back down repeatedly. If the car is in drive and the brake is lightly applied, it will want to move when its revving up.
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