My 98 Mitsubishi Carisma (similar to a Lancer) has a problem when engine cold, the engine seems to hesitate and sputter, and if I try to put it in gear it will only go very slowly. Once the engine is warmed up enough the problem goes away, whats causing this? Its an old car and I don't want to spend a lot to repair it.
View 2 RepliesWhen driving, no matter what the speed we get intermittent hesitation from the engine. Usually lasts less than 30 seconds. Today lasted 7 miles. Doesn't matter how long I've been driving. Does it whether the car is cold or warmed up. Was told the engine air filter needs cleaning. What this could be?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 Mitsubishi Diamante that I have owned since 2008 purchased it with 60,000 miles on it. Currently has 131,000 miles. I have always kept my car in good running condition and performed all of the scheduled maintenance per the owners manual. Last month I noticed a slight cold knock on the right side of the engine that would go away when the engine warmed up. I checked the oil and noticed that it was a little bit low (maybe half a cm below the lower threshold on the dip stick). I added oil and continued to drive it, still knocking.
Bought some sea foam thinking it was the lifters and sprayed a can in the intake and poured some in the oil. Then changed oil with 5w-30 synthetic, have been driving it for about 500 miles now and the cold knock seems to be getting worse and I can faintly smell burning oil when it is idling as I let it warm up before driving off. By the time I get to work the knock is essentially gone. My oil levels have been fine... My question is, should I be explaining to my wife and fiscally responsible self, that I need to be looking for a new (read used) truck sooner than I had initially planned? Or, is this something that can/should be addressed or just drive it until it gives out...
Got a 1997 Mitsubishi Mirage with this code 0420. Only had car a while. It has always had a hesitation accompanied by the CEL coming on and then going out. Might happen twice a trip and then not occur for weeks. Previous owner said they failed an emissions because he cleared a set code(not told to me). The car dives fine and gas mileage seems to be fine. Car does use about a quart of oil over a 3000 mile oil change. It also has/had a rattle similar to an exhaust baffle...the rattle is not an every trip occurrence either.
Had Autozone check for code and was told catalytic converter needed to be replaced. There are no emissions in my state but I would like to know any opinions on my problem and any issues with driving car without repair. I think I want to clear code by disconnecting battery cable and see if it returns but not that would be a good idea. Also considered buying a scan tool with live data to see if there is another issue that might not involve replacing the catalytic converter. Previous owner also mentioned a hissing when removing gas cap and he bought another cap but the I still notice the hissing.
Experiencing engine hesitation after a cold start? I've have noticed this and after the engine is warm there is no hesitation.
View 2 RepliesOk, got a hesitation when the engine is cold, almost feels like a miss. Dealer could not find anything and there are no engine codes. They wanted to replace the plugs with new platinum plugs. I said did you pull any plugs, not that is what the tech said it could be. Could it be the Mass air flow sensor? Or a coil. After a mile or 2 it is fine. I switched to shell premium since dealer told me I had to get a decarbonization from using cheap gas. I used exxon regular and BP regular with a treat of premium every few tanks. But now I am on shell and they said I needed another decarbonization, This is getting rather expensive, I may go back to my local mechanic once the warranty is out. But the hesitation puzzles me.
View 2 RepliesI recently noticed my car is leaking its motor oil into the radiator. There is no water in the motor oil and the transmission oil is at it's appropriate level and such.
View 2 RepliesI have a 98 Eclipse (non-turbo) with 221,000 miles. Head gasket blew out on me this morning. Lost water, but stopped before temp went too high. Bought water to put in to make it to work.
Question: What are your opinions on the "Quick Fix" head gasket repair liquids I see advertized? Two that come to mind are Blue Devil and Steel Seal. I am cash strapped and several hundred dollars are not in my future.
Description: after 20-30 minutes (or miles) of driving I will begin to get hard bucks (misfires beyond one cylinder) and eventually stall. The car will typically turn right back over - but stall after only a minute or so. If I leave the car off for around 15 minutes it will run fine for a while and then stall out again.
It sounds as if the car is running out of fuel which it is not. The pump remains primed and the pressure is normal.
What I've done so far:
Fuel pump has been swapped
Fuel filter has been replaced
Fuel lines have been verified (even cleaned to rail - injector heads and intake manifold... It's been a fun weekend)
Fuel pump relay has been replaced
I have also recently replaced the ignition coil due to an unrelated issue for which I will provide detail so that you too can rule this out. I had random multiple misfires in bank 3 - replaced the coil and the misfires were gone. When the problem came back I was suspect of the new coil and originally believed that this had failed at temp. This coil has been tested hot and cold and passed each way. I also swapped out for the coil with the issue on bank 3 just to verify.
I have read in a few forums which point towards either the ASD relay (which I was also suspect of early in the process of elimination) itself failing when heated or the camshaft position sensor and or the crankshaft position sensor causing the relay to trip when they are heated.
I have a 1998 Mitsubishi Galant, 4cyl., 165, 000 miles. Without previous symptoms, one day the transmission developed a delay of 5 to 30-seconds before it would engage in reverse. The fluid was clean and I have been using the Mitsubishi brand that they recommend. So I replaced the original transmission with a used one. But the reverse delay continued, even with a different transmission. So I removed the used transmission and rebuilt the original one. The problem STILL remained. Since then, the valve body has been replaced and the speed sensor has been replaced. I cannot figure out why there is a delay when putting it into reverse. I ran out of solutions. I did notice one day that when I first start the car, and the engine is at 1000 RPM's or more, the reverse wouldn't engage. Then, as the RPM's dropped to about 200 RPM's, the reverse would engage. I thought maybe this would be a clue.
View 10 RepliesHave a 1998 Mitsubishi Montero.
Best car I've ever owned. 184K miles, never once failed to start.
I was crushed to discover this spot of frame cancer on the driverside rear portion of the frame behind the rear wheel (attached images) .
Is this terminal?
Is it safe to drive and therefore potentially crash this vehicle?
Before the ground froze I dug a 10x18x10 foot deep hole in the backyard....
I have a 98 mitsubishi triton v6 3.0, I am confused with a issue I am having, coolant heats up and is put into reservoir tank as normal, but when car cools down it does not suck it back into radiator.
Have purchased new radiator cap.
No coolant on ground or any visible leaks in engine bay.
No white smoke when starting car or running
No sweet smell of coolant burning
No leaks inside heater
Car doesn't overheat, just pushes more coolant Into reservoir
Slight bubbles in radiator when cap off
No coolant in oil
Put a bottle of radiator leak fix in, no improvement,
Only thing is that 3 out of 5 intake manifold bolts are stuffed, they grab but don't get a tight fit, could this cause the vacuum leak not returning the coolant to radiator....
The rear door of my 1998 Sport will not open. It is unlocked and I can press the handle but the door will not open. I have been able to partially pull back the inside panel (not easy because the bottom of the panel is attached to the closed door) and it I can see the lock/unlock works okay and pressing the outside level works the rod to the latch connecting the door to the car body. But I cannot see where to pull the latch open and cannot locate any diagrams on the internet. I have sprayed some lubricant inside,, no effect. My thought is that if I can get the door open and remove the inside panel the repair may not be to complicated.
View 10 RepliesWe will start with the history. I recently purchased this car knowing of a long list of issues which have been worked out for the most part. The related piece would be random misfires which I believed were based on a faulty Ignition Coil (common on this 420a [2.0 NA] motor.) I have replace the coil but the issue persists.
Now what is happening is after about 20-30 minutes (or miles) of driving the fuel pump will overheat and the car will stall. I can get it to turn back over most of the time but it will stall out if attempting to drive. I have to leave it sitting for about 15 minutes to be able to move it.
What codes am I getting from the CEL? Nothing. (No CEL)What have I tried so far? - Fuel pump has been replaced- Fuel filter has been replaced- Fuel lines have been verified (no noticeable leaks, unwanted bends, pinches or breaks)(I also verified that this is not an issue with the PCV valve or EGR [electric in this car] valve)
I know... I thought relay or wiring also - but all lines and the relay are cool to the touch so they are not overheating. 1998 Eclipse GS....
I have issues with engine starting when cold outside or after rain. This only happens when engine is cold and has not been started for a day or 2. Distributor cap does not have any condensation inside but does seem to corrode on contact points. Engine turns over fine, has fuel and spark. When this happens engine will not fire and after awhile it will start to fire and lock up when it fires then continue cranking. After repeated attempts it will start and run fine, can be shut off and start right back up with out any issues. It could take a few tries to a few hours of trying before running though. I'm leaning toward a distributor or timing issue. Am I on the right track? 98 Suburban K1500 5.7L ....
View 6 RepliesI have a 98 camry 4 cylinder and only on cold mornings after engine starts, right then I hear a one time hump or a poot like noise near the belt area /passenger side. I've changed out the powe rsteering fluid but still does it.. never does it when warm or again after driving, only on cold mornings.
View 2 RepliesOk so I have a 2004 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport AWD. It has started to over heat only when stopped at a stop light and only when the A/C is on. It will red line and as soon as I start to drive the gauge will drop back to normal. Then as soon as I stop again it will red line. But when I turn the A/C off it will fall back down to 3/4 over heat and drop immediately as I start driving. I notice that the A/C will go from ice cold to blowing hot air when it starts to over heat. I took it to the shop and they did a pressure test on the cooling system and it didn't do it again and the shop said that they couldn't find anything wrong with the car. It didn't do it for about 2 weeks and just now it started back again!!!!!!
View 4 RepliesWhen I put on the cold air in my 2003 Mitsubishi Galant, after it's on for a while, I start smelling something sweet like syrup. I haven't noticed it when the air's not on and I don't know how long it's been happening because my sister's been using my car since 2008. It seems to be coming from the front, but I'm not really sure. what this is (is it coolant?), is it dangerous, and how much it should be to fix?
View 5 RepliesMy son had the starter replaced on his 97 Eclipse a couple of months ago and ever since then it seems to be more difficult to start if it has been sitting for a few hours or more. It cranks for 5 or 10 seconds before it catches. If the car is warm or has only sat for an hour or two it starts fine. The battery has been tested and is fine. The fuel filter was replaced about 30k miles ago. He also thinks he has one injector that is performing below par. It idles a tad rough. A friend said to clean or change the air filter and change the fuel filter. He had injector cleaner put in it the other day but that has not solved the starting issue at all yet. Don't know if the injector issue is causing the poor starting or not.
View 5 RepliesLet me start off by saying that I live in the Virginia Beach area and it is HOT. My AC stopped blowing cold air late last summer so naturally I ignored it until the temperature hit close to 100 degrees a few weeks ago. We went to an Auto Zone store and purchased one of the recharge kits and had great success for about two weeks. Two weeks following our efforts to recharge the AC the air temperature started to increase once again. Now about three weeks later I have absolutely NO cold air coming from the AC. We THINK that this must be due to the car leaking freon somewhere. I have read online that the stop leak kits can really gum up your AC and in some cases cause it to stop working completely.
View 2 RepliesMy Honda Civic 98 starts funny. It will hesitate about 3-5 seconds before cranking and sometimes after starting the starter will grind momentarily before letting go.
View 5 Replies