I have a Nissan Altima 2000 with about 98,000 miles. The "check engine" light has been on. This happened once before and eventually the light went off, but now it is on again. I read the manual and it said that the gas cap isn't on tight enough. Checked that and it is fine - but the light never went off. Should I bring it in to a mechanic?
View 5 Replieslast fall, the check engine light came on- Autozone states the knock sensor is bad. At the same time, odometer/cruise would work off and on. Now as months have gone by, the odometer RARELY works. Could all the electrical issues be connected? Is odometer controlled by Speed Sensor on the transmission or somewhere else?
View 2 RepliesMy wife has a problem with the check engine light coming on and staying on. The dealer has replaced the fuel pump twice (which they say is the problem) but it keeps happening.
View 4 RepliesMy 1999 Nissan Altima. Has a check engine light code P 1447. Car stalled needed a jump to get started. Left it by the mechanic running and stalled again what could it be?
View 1 RepliesStarted my car the other morning to go to work (4:45 AM) with no problem and drove about one mile. Not wet weather. The engine dies, all lights that come on at start up (engine, alt, etc.) come on and I glided to the side. Tried starting it again - engine tried but did not catch. Tried a few more times and called AAA.
Towed it to a mechanic. Waited about 2 hours for them to open. They were able to drive it the rest of the day with no problem but they had the same thing happen the next morning (yesterday). Then it didn't happen to them today. One more try tomorrow and I hope they can identify it then.
2000 Nissan Altima w/150K miles, gas was less than 1/4 mark, no system lights on.
I have a 2005 Nissan Altima with a SERVICE ENGINE light that refuses to stay off. Initially, upon hooking the car up to my mechanics computer, the code indicated a faulty crankcase sensor. I purchased the sensor and it was installed. I was then told to drive 30 or 40 miles at various speeds, stop and go traffic without shutting off the engine to reset the computer. This was done twice without success. The light remains on . The inspection was due in December and this is becoming very frustrating not to mention illegal to drive these 40 mile circuits. I have even disconnected the battery, reconnected (light off!), and drove ANOTHER 40 miles. The light stayed off while driving but came back on after restarting. 3 times , 2 different mechanics reset the cars computer with theirs. 4 different computers still diagnose a faulty crankcase sensor. The sensor has been replaced twice. Everyone is stumped and I really don't want to take the car to a dealer.
View 18 RepliesI have a 4 cylinder, 2002 Nissan Altima with about 170,000 miles on it. About 2 months ago, the car starting misfiring while driving and the engine light came on. I went to autozone, used their diagnostic tool and it said I needed to replace the fourth cylinder's ignition coil. I ended up just replacing the spark plugs at that point. After replacing the spark plugs, the misfiring seemed to stop, but the check engine light was still on although the car ran great in comparison.
Then, about 2 weeks ago, the car started smelling like gas and slightly misfiring again. I bought set of ignition coils and changed them out. I started it up, the car seemed to work great. I went to the store about an hour later and the car worked better all the way there with no problems. Then, as I was about to leave the store, I started the car up and it started sputtering and misfiring and you could visibly see the engine shaking like crazy when I popped the hood. It stopped shaking, evened itself out, after about a minute. Then, I felt the top each of the coils and the first three were fine, but the fourth had a rapid tapping coming from it that was obviously not right.
I gave it a couple of days, but the car didn't stop smelling like gas or misfiring when starting up, so I pulled out the ignition coils and the spark plugs. The fourth spark plug was brown and burnt from the bottom to the halfway point, unlike the other still-clean spark plugs. My first hopeful thought was, maybe it wasn't tight enough and that was letting gas or oil inside to burn. I tightened it up, put everything back and it seemed to be alright, even the tapping from the coil stopped.
However, within the last couple days, the car has been smelling like gas and feels like it sputters and misfires once I start it up. The misfiring seems to stop after I rev the engine a little bit, but sometimes when I'm idling, you can still smell the gas and sometimes audibly hear a sputtering.
So my question is: what the hell could be wrong? Faulty wires, a stuck valve, bad compression, what? Remember, the fourth cylinder's spark plug was only burnt on the bottom half if that's useful.
My 2002 Altima A/C won't blow cold air. Took it to my mechanic who says all switches, fuses, relays, compressor clutch are OK and system has pressure, but the compressor is shot. In order to get a replacement that's guaranteed I have to get a receiver/dryer with it. Also says not to get a compressor from the salvage yard. I'm wondering if there are any other testing procedures that could be used to be certain it is the compressor....
View 4 RepliesI own a 2000 nissan altima GXE, and recently i have had a lot of problems, it would stall out randomly and OBD2 scanners said knock senor, EGR, and thermostat. I changed the knock sensor, cleaned the EGR valve and the EGR valve gasket, and haven't touched the thermostat. I changed other things like the crankshaft sensor, fuel filter, fuel pump is fine, alternator, valve cover gasket, and spark plugs. It started stalling all the time after I changed the rotor in the distributor cap, it stalled before but less than after we changed the rotor.
The car would stall randomly when the RPMs would go below 1000. I took it to my friends dad who is a mechanic and he was the one who changed the PCV valve and the EGR valve gasket and cleaned the EGR, he also cleaned the intake and changed the knock sensor. The SES light finally went away but the car would stutter when i would be stopped with the A/C on and i go to press on the gas. once the RPM hit 1000 it would stutter. It didn't stall until a week and a half later. I was told it could MAYBE be throttle position sensor, computer, thermostat, oil loss from valve cover gasket, and idle speed control.
Instrument panel on Altima shuts down or freezes up erratically? There is no conditions I have found when this happens consistently. Typically after leaving the car overnight in the drive next time around everything works properly. I have checked fuses in the car and under the hood. What causes this?
View 1 RepliesDo I buy an engine or sell the car for parts? My son’s car overheated while driving down the hwy due to a radiator leak. After a first and second opinion, two separate mechanics told me the engine has no compression so basically was shot. The car was in good shape with 102k miles and everything worked. Internet surfing has some used engines with 80-100k miles from $800-$1200, some guaranteed some not. Is it better to rebuild the original engine or buy another used one? Labor cost on top of an engine wont be cheap. Are other parts under the hood expected to be replaced too as a result of the engine overheating?
View 3 RepliesNissan altima gle (2000) and for the past 3 weeks it has not gone over 55. The car was running ok before but was idling rough. A mechanic replaced the intake manifold gasket, the MAF sensor and the fan sensor. I decided to change my spark plugs when I noticed the idling was getting worse. The spark plugs had oil on them and now a month after the new ones are burned (like ashy tip, black thread) and dripping oil again. I think is the oil not letting my car accelerate in the highway. I considered changing the valve gasket, cables and cap for the spark plug. A mechanic told me not to bother because the motor is a lost. Is he right?
View 16 Replies2003 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL automatic - starts fine when the engine is cold but won't when the engine is hot. It acts flooded. I've changed the camshaft and crankshaft sensors, spark plugs, one spark plug coil, radiator, valve cover and the coolant temperature sensor. The car will turn over but will not start - sometimes it will after 5-10 minutes of trying.
View 1 RepliesIt ran out of gas with the previous owner and they say the steering is new and the hybrid battery is new and the 12 volt is new but when I got it I had to get the 12volt battery trickle charge which it charge to 80 percent and it still didn't start only goings from lock, acc, then on never say ready no sound but when I pull the IGCT relay the fans come on but it don't start what is this relay?is this car just like Toyota primis. What could be the problem of this mechanism to get it running I have the only one in my town which no one knows how to work on It.
View 4 RepliesMy 2007 Nissan Altima Hybrid has had this recurring problem since I purchased it used and I learned the original owner had the same recurring issue and other owners on the internet also. Typically when I go to start my car in the morning, after my car has sat in the garage over night, I depress the brake and the ignition button and **ALL** the warning lights come on including the EV mode ready and Service Engine light but the car has no power steering and the gas engine won't start at all. The car is drivable for about 30 seconds in EV mode then dies. When the car is at the dealer the car starts fine and they can't replicate the issue but find the following DTC's: UOO73, UO100 ECM 211, UO100 ECM 530, UO123, UO124, U0126, U0129 BRAKE 220, UO293,UO131 EPS 433, UO121 EPS 434, U1020, U1022. Nissan replaced the hybrid battery, the hybrid harness and the main car harness and now they say there is nothing more they can do to fix the problem. The problem remains. Have you had the same or a similar issue?
View 8 RepliesMy 2003 Nissan Altima recently started giving me trouble where I will drive for at least 20 minutes, stop to run an errand, come back, and the engine won't turn over. The first time this happened my check engine light came on. I brought it into the shop and had the cam sensors replaced. I'm still having the same problem. The engine cranks and the battery checked out okay. Car has 93,000 miles on it. I can usually get it to start after 5-10 minutes by cranking and pushing the gas to the floor. Could this be a fuel issue?
View 3 RepliesI recently purchased a prev. owned Nissan Altima (2006) 113,000 miles from the Honda dealer. Two months later I took it to the Nissan dealer to have something checked and they told me the car was two & half qts. low on oil. I had only driven it to the store and back; not on the interstate. I allowed them to fix motor mount and replace seals and fill oil. I took it back 1 mo. later; everything ok. Again went back to have it checked. before driving it from PNS to S. Fl. Got the go ahead! Off I went thinking they had fixed the problem, when I noticed the rpm's were between 3 & 4 at 60 mph on interstate.
I kept the needle on 3 , to & from. Upon return, I heard a rattle under the hood, oil lt. came on. Next day, took it to Nissan dealer who said there was 1 qt. oil left in it. They examined the engine thoroughly this time. The verdict: a bad catalytic converter (neglected by prev. owner) engine sucked up micro gaskets...used a term 'combust blow out', and recommended I sell the car or get a rebuilt engine. I signed off on a dozen papers at the honda dealer; 'as is'. they showed me a carfax but I did not receive a copy.
My 08 altima cruise control comes on and the set light keeps blinking the service book says take it to my dealer is there anything I can do to fix it myself could it be a air leak or something?
View 1 RepliesWarning light appeared, pressure adjusted to 32 psig on all four tires, but light will not go out, even after several miles of driving. Are the tire valve stem Caps special for this feature? I have lost one and replaced it with another type I had.
View 5 Replies05 Nissan Altima CVT 91k was running great until last week, it stalled while sitting at a traffic light, restarted the engine and ran fine but check engine sign lit up. Today at 60-70 mph engine hesitated once but was noticable, and took 3 cranks to get it to start after re-fuelling. Plugs were replaced at 55k, air filter is clean and was new 4 months ago anyway. Autozone read P0335 and P0725 something about a crankshaft and engine timing sensors?
View 1 RepliesI own a Nissan Altima 2008 2 door coupe and a light that looks sort of like a clock with ticks underneath has lit up in my dashboard on my left hand side. It's NOT tire pressure nor can I find what it means in the manual book.
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