My wife has a problem with the check engine light coming on and staying on. The dealer has replaced the fuel pump twice (which they say is the problem) but it keeps happening.
View 4 RepliesI have a Nissan Altima 2000 with about 98,000 miles. The "check engine" light has been on. This happened once before and eventually the light went off, but now it is on again. I read the manual and it said that the gas cap isn't on tight enough. Checked that and it is fine - but the light never went off. Should I bring it in to a mechanic?
View 5 Replieslast fall, the check engine light came on- Autozone states the knock sensor is bad. At the same time, odometer/cruise would work off and on. Now as months have gone by, the odometer RARELY works. Could all the electrical issues be connected? Is odometer controlled by Speed Sensor on the transmission or somewhere else?
View 2 RepliesMy 1999 Nissan Altima. Has a check engine light code P 1447. Car stalled needed a jump to get started. Left it by the mechanic running and stalled again what could it be?
View 1 RepliesIssues with check engine light coming on and staying on. The dealer says it is either a gas cap problem or the type of gas being put in the car. Dealer recommends only using Shell fuel. The car drives fine and am wondering if this might be sensitive fuel detection.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 VW Jetta TDI and the check engine light has been staying on solid (not flashing) for a couple of months. I took it to my local dealer who tested the computer and said that it was the thermostat and a related sensor. That answer didn't seem to make sense, and unfortunately I didn?t get the code from the dealer at the time. I did though have the code read recently at another shop and it said: "Code P0674 which is #4 glow plug circuit - Q13 - electrical fault sporadic." What this means?
View 6 RepliesMy 2002 Nissan Sentra's check engine light keeps coming on. It came on about three weeks ago, and our mechanic replaced an oxygen sensor. Two or three days later, it came back on. He figured the first sensor was faulty, and replaced it with another. The light came on as I was driving away from the place. The mechanic replaced some of the wires. And now, a week after that, the light came on again.
View 8 RepliesI keep failing my emissions because my check engine light keeps coming on. I was told that the problem was the catalytic converter rear and needed to buy one for both sides. The problem I am having that I don;t know which Catalytic Converter I should buy. I know without it is causing my car to stutter. Which I should get?
View 8 Replies2003 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL automatic - starts fine when the engine is cold but won't when the engine is hot. It acts flooded. I've changed the camshaft and crankshaft sensors, spark plugs, one spark plug coil, radiator, valve cover and the coolant temperature sensor. The car will turn over but will not start - sometimes it will after 5-10 minutes of trying.
View 1 RepliesMy 2003 Nissan Altima recently started giving me trouble where I will drive for at least 20 minutes, stop to run an errand, come back, and the engine won't turn over. The first time this happened my check engine light came on. I brought it into the shop and had the cam sensors replaced. I'm still having the same problem. The engine cranks and the battery checked out okay. Car has 93,000 miles on it. I can usually get it to start after 5-10 minutes by cranking and pushing the gas to the floor. Could this be a fuel issue?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2005 Nissan Altima with a SERVICE ENGINE light that refuses to stay off. Initially, upon hooking the car up to my mechanics computer, the code indicated a faulty crankcase sensor. I purchased the sensor and it was installed. I was then told to drive 30 or 40 miles at various speeds, stop and go traffic without shutting off the engine to reset the computer. This was done twice without success. The light remains on . The inspection was due in December and this is becoming very frustrating not to mention illegal to drive these 40 mile circuits. I have even disconnected the battery, reconnected (light off!), and drove ANOTHER 40 miles. The light stayed off while driving but came back on after restarting. 3 times , 2 different mechanics reset the cars computer with theirs. 4 different computers still diagnose a faulty crankcase sensor. The sensor has been replaced twice. Everyone is stumped and I really don't want to take the car to a dealer.
View 18 RepliesI have a 4 cylinder, 2002 Nissan Altima with about 170,000 miles on it. About 2 months ago, the car starting misfiring while driving and the engine light came on. I went to autozone, used their diagnostic tool and it said I needed to replace the fourth cylinder's ignition coil. I ended up just replacing the spark plugs at that point. After replacing the spark plugs, the misfiring seemed to stop, but the check engine light was still on although the car ran great in comparison.
Then, about 2 weeks ago, the car started smelling like gas and slightly misfiring again. I bought set of ignition coils and changed them out. I started it up, the car seemed to work great. I went to the store about an hour later and the car worked better all the way there with no problems. Then, as I was about to leave the store, I started the car up and it started sputtering and misfiring and you could visibly see the engine shaking like crazy when I popped the hood. It stopped shaking, evened itself out, after about a minute. Then, I felt the top each of the coils and the first three were fine, but the fourth had a rapid tapping coming from it that was obviously not right.
I gave it a couple of days, but the car didn't stop smelling like gas or misfiring when starting up, so I pulled out the ignition coils and the spark plugs. The fourth spark plug was brown and burnt from the bottom to the halfway point, unlike the other still-clean spark plugs. My first hopeful thought was, maybe it wasn't tight enough and that was letting gas or oil inside to burn. I tightened it up, put everything back and it seemed to be alright, even the tapping from the coil stopped.
However, within the last couple days, the car has been smelling like gas and feels like it sputters and misfires once I start it up. The misfiring seems to stop after I rev the engine a little bit, but sometimes when I'm idling, you can still smell the gas and sometimes audibly hear a sputtering.
So my question is: what the hell could be wrong? Faulty wires, a stuck valve, bad compression, what? Remember, the fourth cylinder's spark plug was only burnt on the bottom half if that's useful.
I recently bought a 2003 nissan maxima 134k and i bought it with the p0300 check engine light on a looked at the engine and though it was an air box problem because they had previously installed a K&n filter so I went to the junk yard and got a 2000 nissan maxima air box and new filter i changed the oil and checked the spark plugs they look new and the dates on the coils are 2012 and 2013 and still its misfiring. i bought it to a mechanic and he discovered a vacuum tank had previously broke and they glued back together so i replace that with a factory one today same problem still misfiring but it got better but now its a p0306 then i erased the code and p0304 came back i erased it then p0302 came back then i change the cam sensors, and the crankshaft sensor and now it get a p0300.
Symptoms:
*when sitting for a long time HARD TO START ( takes multiple cranks to start it ) but once i leave it off for short time like 30 min it starts right up no problem
* when stop at a stop light in drive i can feel small little explosions sounds like my car is beat boxing
*performance is strong good acceleration no problem on that i just don't want it misfiring
Got a 2010 Prius with about 61000 miles on it. Starting yesterday the check engine light stay on all the time (As soon as I started the car). I tried open and tighten the gas cap but no luck and check engine light still stay on all the time. What could be the problem? Will any ODB scanner able to diagnose the check engine light code or need a specific one?
View 6 RepliesThis code keeps coming up on my OBD reader, hat to look for to repair this code. I read on this other forum that it could be vacuum leaks etc.,
View 7 Replies2007 Mini Cooper S - Engine light stays on but when I have it checked no codes show up.
View 11 RepliesIt happened randomly on the way home from work, the car chugged along with the check engine light flashing at me and then staying on. I was able to limp it home and got a ride to the nearest auto parts store to get some new plugs. I went with the NGK brand. Well, $60 later (including tools on the spot) and it's still running rough.
I know best case it to try and limp it to the autoparts store to let them try and pull the codes. I noticed an old thread where updates were made to the software to correct a running issue. I will note this same chugging randomly happened at 50,000 miles. I shut the car off, let it sit for a moment, restarted and it ran just fine. The engine vibrates noticeably just like it did at 50,000.
2009 Accent running rough 73,000 miles....
1990 ford ranger.. I just bought this truck, check engine light stays on.. What can I do to find out what's the problem?
View 3 RepliesI have about 75K on my 03 1.8t on started having the check engine light coming on in the last few months. The dealers diagnosis was that I wasn't tightening the gas cap enough but I don't believe that because I do at least 3-5 clicks when I close it. I'm a bit baffled. After the last time I filled up at the gas station, I noticed the cap was loose so I've ordered another cap thinking the last one has lost its ability to seal properly...
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 nissan altima. About 4 weeks ago it started over heating, smoke coming from under the hood, not the gauge raising. I took it to my mechanic and he replaced the big hose going from the radiator to the engine. I got it back and about 2 days later it started again overheating again, smoke under the hood. Took it back and he said the radiator is leaking it was under a year old so he replaced it, i drove it home on a sunday and monday morning I drove to work 5 miles at 10 am break it had two puddles under it. He said it's the radiator again, replaced it and we went to pick it up and he said it blew again. Sounds odd to me He finally said they thought it was the fans. The gauge never ran hot only the smoke coming from under the hood. If your looking under the hood it was wet on the left side. Needless to say he has had my car for almost 2 weeks and it's still not fixed. My question is should I go get it and take it somewhere else. What damage will it do to drive it somewhere else?
View 19 RepliesI have an 97 Altima. When I hit on the brakes, it seems to be okay, but once I let the pedal go, there are clicking noise coming for the front wheels.
View 9 Replies