My 2002 Nissan Sentra's check engine light keeps coming on. It came on about three weeks ago, and our mechanic replaced an oxygen sensor. Two or three days later, it came back on. He figured the first sensor was faulty, and replaced it with another. The light came on as I was driving away from the place. The mechanic replaced some of the wires. And now, a week after that, the light came on again.
View 8 RepliesI live in CA and recently my car passed the smog test, but failed inspection because the check engine light on the board was on. When the diagnostic test was done, it said there's a problem with the catalytic converter. It's so frustrating because the car's emissions are within limits. , I was thinking... Is there a way to get the catalytic converter to run cleaner without replacing it? If it can run long enough to pass the diagnostic test, my car could pass inspection.
View 3 RepliesI filled up my gas after it was a little under half a tank . I tighten my gas cap . I started my car then out of the blue the check engine came on. I shut off car and tighten gas cap again making sure it was as tight as it could be . I started my car again and the solid check engine light stayed. It is a 2006 Nissan sentra automatic 1.8 . About 70,000 miles
View 7 Replies(This is a continuation of a previous thread: [URL] ..... )
I have a 2005 Nissan Sentra with 75,000 miles on it. Several months ago (see above link) the check engine light came on with a P0304 cylinder 4 misfire code. The only symptom appears to be a rough idle/shaking every 3rd or 4th start for the first 10-15 seconds, but runs smoothly afterwards. My mechanic replaced all my spark plugs (I had new plugs put it at 50,000 miles for the same issue) of which the one from cylinder 4 was worn down much more than the rest. The problem persisted so they replaced my fuel pump and fuel filter and switched the spark coils from cylinder 4 to a different cylinder, but the code still read cylinder 4 so it wasn't the coil. That was back in October.
I took my car back in last week for the same problem and without starting my car (because the problem is worst on the first start) they pushed my car into the bay and did a smoke test, no leaks in the fuel lines. Then they checked the cylinder and said that there was "excess" fuel in the cylinder and replaced the fuel injector. Then after ~3 days the check engine came back on with the same P0304 misfire code. Previous repairs/diagnostics rule out spark plugs, coils, fuel pressure, and injectors.
I keep failing my emissions because my check engine light keeps coming on. I was told that the problem was the catalytic converter rear and needed to buy one for both sides. The problem I am having that I don;t know which Catalytic Converter I should buy. I know without it is causing my car to stutter. Which I should get?
View 8 RepliesMy wife has a problem with the check engine light coming on and staying on. The dealer has replaced the fuel pump twice (which they say is the problem) but it keeps happening.
View 4 RepliesI am having issues with my 02 Nissan Sentra turning over when I am starting the car. First for some background my car has almost exactly 115k miles on it. I have noticed the problem is getting slowly worse and worse. What happens is when I turn the key the engine makes a slow grrrr and rev sound, then a slighty faster grrr and rev, followed by a faster one before it finally turns over. There have been instances before when I have have to give it a good two or three times before it would turn over at all. I am not sure what is causing the problem. I do have one idea is that recently my gas mileage has been going down so I added Techron from the auto shop before 2 of my last 3 fillups (I didn't on the last fill up since I was having the issues) Could that cause the problem? Other than that I am thinking maybe something with the battery (its a bit over 3 years old) or the spark plugs or fuel pump would be my best bet? I tried to take an audio recording of the issue but you have to really turn up the volume to hear the low lever grrr and revs before the car starts.
View 2 RepliesSo recently my service engine light came on suddenly and I saw my tachometer acting a little weird along with my car vibrating slightly at stop lights. I know I should get this checked out because it's better to nip this problem in the bud early on before the problem worsens or starts to affect other parts of the car. My questions are,
What the problem is? I've read online that sometimes the service engine soon light comes on because of small issues that can be resolved by e.g. tightening the gas cap etc etc or it may be something that requires professional attention. I don't want to have to see a mechanic if the issue can be resolved by myself.
I've had terrible experiences with mechanics, what often happens is that I get charged for work done and the problem isn't solved. This happened once with an individual mechanic and I'll probably look at certified dealers such as Mossy Nissan. But that being said, the reviews of all the Nissan certified service centres in my area have horrible ratings and reviews so even going to them is a hesitation for me.
How can I protect myself from getting ripped off? What information should I ask for or tell them? Do i ask them for the codes when they run a diagnostic test and what should I expect to get charged for and what should I expect not to get charged for.
I have a 2006 nissan sentra about 58,100 miles. The car recieves the regular oil changes. I got a service engine light and a mechanic saw it. He scanned the car and nothing came up as a cause so he cleared the light. The light has popped up again. What can I do ?
View 19 RepliesI have a manual 2000 Nissan Sentra with 101,000 miles. The Service Engine Soon light stays on. I was told it was an vacuum leak or mass air flow or basically the mixture of oxygen is off. (I already had one mass air flow put in a few years ago.) I have been ignoring the message. We went camping and drove twice to 9,000 feet. No problems on road at all. The car runs great. In fact we got 35 mpg on the trip. Am I possibly hurting the car by ignoring the message?
View 5 RepliesI recently had my "Service Engine Light" come on, Sunday to be exact. I went through my normal procedure of checking the fuel cap and drove several times to no avail. So today I ran by Autozone where I got the P0302 code. Now I realize I could go in for a tune up, but I'm a college student and just spent all my money on books so I'm looking for some DIY solutions before I lay down any large amounts of money. Where to start. As for a bit more background, I filled my car up with gas on Friday, the light came on Sunday and the car will shake on initial idle of the car.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2002 4 cylinder Camry, and I've been having trouble with the EVAP test completing. I've been running the EVAP test to the letter, with no success, so I figure the problem might be dependent on something else not completing.
I used to get the occasional check engine light for loose gas cap. So a few days ago I intentionally left the gas cap VERY loose (it's essentially just sitting in the filler nozzle). But I'm not getting the check engine light. I think that the gas tank pressure test may not be running, and that may be why I can't get the EVAP test to complete successfully.
Conditions: The gas level is about 1/2 full, and the ambient temperature has been around 20-35 degrees F.
I'm having a hard time searching. Most search results deal with how to resolve the loose gas cap problem. The check engine light is not burned out... it comes on briefly when I start the car!
I have a 2002 Nissan Sentra. In Nov. 2010 had inspection done and replaced upper radiator hose at that time. Right after that, I had no heat and the temperature gauge would go up to hot but then come right back down. Brought it back to mechanic, changed thermostat and both things ok only part way home. Started riding with coworker only driving to her house 7 miles away and still temperature gauge up and down, stopped driving completely in Feb. Just brought it to dealer who replaced thermostat and worked fine all the way home and then started all over again the next day. Seems to happen faster at higher speed but will eventually do it in any driving conditions. Today service engine soon light came on. Obviously not thermostat problem. Could it be water pump? Dealer did pressure test and that came back fine so no head gasket problem although don't have a lot of faith in that since problem still exists and they thought thermostat would fix it.
View 19 RepliesI've been driving my daughter's Nissan for the past week, trying to figure out what's going on.
Car has about 124K miles. Automatic transmission. Two things happening, neither with total consistency:
(1) Sometimes, primarily from a cold start, car will not shift gears. You'll go past the speed and RPMs where you would have expected the gear to shift, but engine whines on. When you let off the gas, it then shifts. Same from 2nd to 3rd. While in this mode, would not seem to stay in 4th - would briefly shift in (for about a second) , then return to 3rd.
(2) Other item - more frequently, primarily from a warm start, but also from a cold start - car shifts gears at proper time, but there is a distinctive "jolt" as it shifts from 1st to 2nd; not really noticeable in higher gears and the "jolt" can vary in intensity. Almost feels like a broken motor mount, but don't think that's it.
Doesn't happen with scenario (1) described above. Also, while in this mode, I noticed, while highway driving, that if I was at the bottom of a long hill, going 60 and floored it, there would be no power surge. It was not downshifting into 3rd like it should. I would have a long and slow acceleration , with the tachometer holding steady at about 2700 RPMs, not climbing as you would expect.
But, if I was going about 50, then you would get normal hill climb acceleration.My mechanic - whom I've dealt with for a long time and trust - had wanted me to drive it awhile and see what was happening before bringing it in. When describing these symptoms to him, his reaction was "Hmmm - doesn't sound good" but without the quick diagnosis I'm accustomed to from him.
My friend told me for the past year she has been having trouble with her sentra. she has taken it to the dealer & they could not figure out whats going on. So here is what she described to me. '02 nissan sentra exe with 54k miles. when she gets to a stop light/sign and the car is at idle, it stalls. she said it stalls when slowly going in reverse out of her driveway and when she slows down to pull into her driveway. the check engine light has never turned on and the car starts back up again right away. What is going on?
View 6 Replies2002 F350 7.3 PSD. 192k miles.
From my understanding, a CEL is supposed to illuminate each time you turn the ignition ON as part of normal startup procedure.
I figured the previous owner must have pulled out the bulb to hide the fact that the truck had a few "issues" before selling it, so today I pulled out the gauge cluster and it looked as if the CEL bulb was a tiny LED soldered directly into the gauge cluster itself. There were a few serviceable/removable bulbs for things like turn signal indicators, high-beam etc... but the CEL did not have a serviceable/removable bulb.
I've been driving this truck and working through it's "issues" and fixing things as I go, but it keeps throwing codes without the CEL illuminating. What's going on here?
I thought the check-engine-light was supposed to illuminate each time the ignition was turned on, and that it would come on each and every time the vehicle registered a fault code in the ECU/PCM.
I have a 2002 Nissan Sentra has great difficulty starting first thing in the morning if it has not been driven for a day or two. Once I finally get it started, it runs fine all day. My mechanic has finally traced the problem, after keeping the car over the weekend. He says 3 or the 4 injectors have very tiny leaks and so a few drops of gas are leaking into wherever. They put something in the injectors they thought might solve the problem, but I won't know until I leave it for several days and then need to start it.
View 1 RepliesRecently leased a 2014 Nissan Sentra SL It has 800 miles on it now. Immediately I felt a slight vibration when coming to a stop. It is intermittent happens about 50% of the time. Brought it to my dealer and he said he couldn't feel the problem on the test drive, if it persists come back to him.I plan on going back to service next week. As I apply the brakes it slows down smoothly but just before coming to a complete stop is when it vibrates. Most people say my car has warped rotors causing this,My question is: How can a brand new car with 10 miles on it have warped rotors?
View 13 RepliesI drive a used 2012 Nissan Sentra that I purchased six months ago. Today is the first time I've ever had problems with it. I was driving down the road this afternoon and it started making a noise that's very hard to describe. It sounds like it's coming from the dash and is comparable to birds chirping or a computer-like/electronic noise. It kind of sounds like R2D2 hijacked my car! It also started making a scraping like sound from the back wheel. I thought I was dragging something under my car, but there was nothing there when I checked. When I started it again later, there was a squeak when I backed up that was either underneath or the rear right wheel side. The sounds only occur when the car is moving.
View 3 Replies1996 Nissan Sentra GXE, 147,000 miles. Automatic transmission. When I start moving after starting the car, I hear an ominously loud single clunk coming from the area around the right rear wheel. I start the engine, no clunk. I release the parking brake, no clunk. I put the car into gear, no clunk. I take my foot off the brake and begin to move, CLUNK! And that's the last I hear of it while I'm driving. There are no rattles, shakes, or other problems as I am driving. I can stop for a traffic light, and there's no clunk when I start moving again. Shift into reverse, and there's no clunk. Hit a pothole, nothing.
It may be worth mentioning that I have a huge hole in the right side of my muffler (seriously - I can stick a few fingers into it) which I am not going to repair. And that is because in five weeks I am going to be buying a new car. I've arranged time off from work to do all the running around from bank to dealer to insurance agent to DMV, and I'll have enough cash at the ready for a large down payment. So I am very reluctant to have any work done on this car. So what it comes down to is can I 'baby' the Sentra as much as possible and use it as little as possible over the next few weeks, or am I in danger of losing a wheel (or something) at any moment?
I ran over a chunk of ice at about 15mph. I could definitely hear it scraping the undercarriage. Now, when the engine is on (regardless of RPM), there's a hissing sound (like air escaping, or a belt sliding against something) coming from the back right side of the undercarriage. What I damaged? No smoke, no leaks... just the hissing sound.
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