1990 Maxima..245,000 miles...car idles fine except when sitting at stoplight for more than 15 seconds, then idle starts to drop slowly and become unstable. Then there is a separate issue: After putting the car in Park (after warming up) the car will drop/surge from approximately 1500 to 1800 rpms three times and then go back down to normal (I am guessing transmission clutch).
View 3 Replies1990 Nissan Maxima, i noticed that after changing the struts/springs on my car that when i make a hard right turn while accelerating the car makes a terrible grinding noise. I know this is a classic sign for a CV joint, but could it be anything else? It is definitely not tire rubbing, definitely metal sound. It doesnt seem to be getting worse.
View 1 Replies1990 Maxima. Last night the car started shaking after pulling up to stop sign, it kept shaking the whole way home. Acceleration was slow and difficult. Car started up fine this morning, started to shake again at first stop sign...then it was OK for rest of the day.
View 2 RepliesI installed lowering springs (1.5 inches front and rear) on my car, 1990 Maxima, with new performance shocks, but the ride is a little bouncy at times. I know this is from the reduced travel the shocks have..even though they are stiffer than stock. Is there any way to give a little more travel? or how to give the shocks more dampening force? (besides putting the old springs on of course). Would lighter wheels/tires work? How about loosening the center nut on the strut a bit?
View 11 Replies'90 Maxima 256k.....recently I've noticed exhaust coming in through the vents when I have the AC on and have been idling or driving in slow traffic. I know I have a small exhaust manifold leak because I hear the clicking. The problem is this exhaust smell happens very intermittently. Usually on hot humid days when I have the AC on. I have tried to duplicate the issue to no avail. Sometimes I can sit in a parking lot at idle with the AC on for 30 minutes and I don't smell any exhaust (not even when I smell under the hood). How can this be? If it truly was an exhaust leak then it would leak all the time and I would smell it. Could my EGR valve be leaking? When the EGR valve is activated?
View 3 Replies'90 Maxima...A couple of my exhaust studs broke (it was a problem for this model) and now I have an annoying exhaust leak. I tried to put a new gasket, but it started to leak again. I am thinking of using permatex copper sealant....drilling out the broken bolts and replacing them would be very expensive I think.
View 4 Replies'90 Maxima...I've noticed coolant reservoir has been running low/dry and I also notice coolant dripping from the overflow hose. Why would it keep pushing more coolant out if there isn't an excess in the reservoir? Engine runs fine., no other issues.
View 13 RepliesIt is a '90 Nissan Maxima. I just replaced my drivers side axle (cv joint was clicking), and now my car vibrates at highway speeds when turning right. I am pretty sure I seated the axle correctly....could it be a bad axle? I heard that turning the axle 90 degrees and reinstalling may work? I got a new axle (Empi brand).
View 2 Replies1999 Nissan Maxima. My AC works great until I take a trip. About an hour into the trip the AC slowly stops cooling. I turn the fan onto high to unthaw, this works a little but it is still very warm. If I slow down to about 45 going through a town the cooling will improve until I return to highway speed. My mechanic has checked the freon, changed the sensor two times. When it has stopped cooling I have checked under the hood and the AC is still clicked in, as if the AC does not click off when it is cool enough and freezes. My mechanic has come to the conclusion that there may be something in the computer.
View 2 Replies1990 Maxima. The car hesitates/surges occassionally after warm start, but only surges for about first 1/4 mile, then its OK. Sometimes it idles low, especially when I come to a stop and apply brakes hard. I believe the two issues are related. This has been getting progressively worse over past few years.
View 3 RepliesJust recently bought a 07 Nissan Maxima SE. Has a few issues.
The car sun roof does not work at all. It worked the day I bought it though.
Has issues turning on. Cranks slowly then after a few seconds of struggle it turns. Didn't have this issue when I bought it.
Goes idle when first starting to drive. From park, I put the car in drive, or reverse, and let go of the brake, it basically does nothing. Engine is on as if it were in park or neutral, but the car doesnt move. When I press the gas it takes a few seconds before it decides to actually move.
'90 maxima 245,000 miles.....over the course of a few days all three rear injectors (1,3,5) are stuck open and dumping fuel....lots of white smoke and fuel smell. Mechanic told me to replace the fuel injectors, that they are bad. I do not believe this since i recently replaced the injectors. I confirmed the Ohm on the injectors(10-14) and it is getting a spark....i heard that it could be the wiring harness is grounding out? how do i test this? could my ECU be bad?
View 6 Replies1994 Maxima SE 5 speed manual with 178k runs great when engine is cold, then a cylinder starts missing. Symptom is worse in low gears. Then, miles and miles without a miss. Replaced rear ignition coil and it seemed to fix the problem... for about 20 miles, then it started missing again. And stops missing… for miles.
View 2 RepliesMy car has suddenly started stalling a lot. I can get it to start right up if I put the clutch to the floor and it will idle fine until I start coming up of the clutch even while it in neutral. At times it will idle in neutral then start to idle rough and stall. I can drive it in reverse but can't drive it forward except in first if i keep the clutch at a certain point and not release it all the way. However when I try other gears sometimes it's like it does't want to go stalls. What it might be?
View 1 RepliesMy daughter has a 1993 maxima SE (3.0 DOHC) that ran ok until one day when she left work and started the car it was running very rough (missing and sputtering). She had the car towed here and I looked it over,it had a lot of visible problems which I have fixed (cracked coil packs,leaking valve cover gaskets, filthy fuel filter,clogged pcv valve, oil saturated air filter,spark plugs burned down to nubs etc, I replaced all those obviously defective parts) but the car still idles very rough, idles too low RPMs (400-500 rpms), exhaust smells like raw fuel and it only gets 5 miles to the gallon on my last test drive.
I removed the intake manifold to get to the rear fuel injectors to see if they might be stuck open and leaking.The car had been sitting for about 5 days with the battery disconnected and when I removed the first injector there was no fuel in the injector or the rail and no pressure in the rail.I left the injector out overnight and the next morning there was fuel all over the top of the engine and in the fuel rail.I put the injector back in and unbolted the rail,I reconnected the battery and turned the key to start the fuel pump.I waited for about 3-4 minutes and did not see any fuel leaking from the injectors.I turned the key off and removed it from the ignition,disconnected the battery and bolted the fuel rail back down.I again removed one of the injectors and there was no fuel in the injector or the rail and no pressure in the rail.After about 2 minutes, with the key out of the ignition and the battery disconnected,I saw fuel start filling the rail and the injector port, so I quickly put the injector back in.
I`m thinking the next step would be to replace the fuel pressure regulator and recheck the injectors for leaks.Am I on the right track here with the pressure regulator? What could be causing the car to suddenly start acting this way, my daughter said the car ran fine on her way to work ( although I hardly think it could have been running "fine" with cracked coil packs,clogged air filter,worn plugs etc)...
1993 Nissan Maxima. Great little car except when engine gets warmed up it begins to run rough and dies. At idle, when accelerating, while maintaining speed. Since its a manual it is a simple matter of dropping into neutral and it fires right up again... no problem. Then stall repeats. Went through routine steps checking plugs, filters, wires, sensors etc.. The O2 sensor (only one) is gone - as is the converter. At some point someone replaced it with a straight pipe.
After not finding a obvious answer, I began to ask around (auto-part stores, neighbors, some patrons at the saloon). Conclusion... OBD failure causing a "kill" routine which shuts off the engine. When I restart, it resets. Once it fails to enter a static state (engine is warm) it kills again. I replaced the computer with a used one "known" to operate (so the e-bay seller said) Installed it and bingo, car ran like a top for 15 full minutes - best ever. Then after 15 minutes or so, suddenly began to run rough and stalled twice before I got back home. I runs now just as before (but oh those glorious 15 minutes).
2012 Corolla S 5 speed manual. Just bought the car in September. CPO with 19k miles on it when purchased. Now it has 22k miles. The "problem" is as follows:
After driving the car around for some time, meaning fully warmed-up, when I come to a stop at a light the engine's idle speed will slowly drop from about 800 (where it's as smooth as glass and I can't even tell the engine is running) to about 650-600 and there's a noticeable shudder in the wheel and in the whole car. It lasts for a few seconds then the RPM goes back to normal - just as if it's correcting itself. This happens with nothing running except the radio. No fan, no A/C, nothing.
The only thing I could think is that the radiator fan is kicking on and causing the alternator to work harder? Considering this is a manual is it safe to rule out any kind of transmission issue?
I didn't notice it when I test drove the car, and honestly, the car I was driving before made so much racket that this Corolla sounds like a luxury car by comparison.
My 98 Maxima won't idle without dying, it sputters when you accelerate, and it tries to die while coasting. I've changed two O2 sensors (AutoZone gave me the code for bank 1 sensor 1 & 2) changed spark plugs, tried fuel injector cleaner, oil change, and cleaned MAF sensor & checked the wiring. It;s still spitting out the black exhaust. Although after changing the O2 sensors it quit for about a day or two but started again (I'm guessing the other sensors need to be changed to) But the main problem is once it warms up, it really runs like crap, and is a major gas hog. I'm getting about 12 Mpg.
View 19 RepliesCold start. engine starts but wont idle, just dies. rpms drop. Restart same. Must neutral drop to get going keep rpms up until engines shifts then things are fine until next cold start. Cleaned throttle, changed air filter, dry gas, injector cleaner, no warning signal, scans clean. 180k miles.
View 6 RepliesHaving some problems with my 92 Nissan NX2000. i just finished changing the clutch on the car now its acting horrible.
When i start the car, it will run decent for like 2 or 3 seconds then the idle drops down till it almost dies, catches itself, idle goes up to about 500 were it will pulse around for a few seconds until it dies. If i rev it it will stay running, kept it running for about 2 mins. but as soon as i let off it will pulse at 500 until it dies
After i changed the clutch it started up fine, it ran great for about 20 seconds before it just died. when i started it after is when the problem arose.
I took a video of the car running, which can be seen here. [URL] .... (It has never caught itself like that before and jumped up to 1000 rpms before. It normally will die at that point)
The video is really quiet, not sure what happened there. if need be i can get a video of the engine bay so its louder, was mainly focused on the RPMs.
Here's a few things i tried: Checked fuses, Changed spark plug wires, made sure they were all seated good, MAF wires were rubbed a bit so i cut the MAF pigtail off one of my other sentras and soldered it on,Changed to a good battery, Changed fuel filter, Added more gas (in cause gauge is broken), Made sure all connectors are plugged in, Checked around for vacuum leaks, found that one of the large hoses coming off the intake going to the engine had separated so i plugged them back in and nothing.
I received code P1404 on my 1999 Saturn shortly after the idle went unstable. The car ran great for a couple of weeks, then the idle went unstable again. The idle would go up and down for a couple of miles, then stabilized, but I got code P1404 again. The EGR I installed is new. What else would trigger P1404?
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