Nissan - Maxima :: 1999 - AC Slowly Stops Cooling After About An Hour Of Driving
Jun 27, 2014
1999 Nissan Maxima. My AC works great until I take a trip. About an hour into the trip the AC slowly stops cooling. I turn the fan onto high to unthaw, this works a little but it is still very warm. If I slow down to about 45 going through a town the cooling will improve until I return to highway speed. My mechanic has checked the freon, changed the sensor two times. When it has stopped cooling I have checked under the hood and the AC is still clicked in, as if the AC does not click off when it is cool enough and freezes. My mechanic has come to the conclusion that there may be something in the computer.
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My jeep is having two issues. First, almost every time I start the vehicle it idles fine, but then when I start to accelerate it bogs down for 1 to 2 seconds. I will accelerate through it and after that it runs fine and doesn't do it again until the next time I start the vehicle. My second issue is that after driving for a couple of hours with the AC on, the flow of air out of the vents drops. The air is still cold to the touch just barely blowing. Once I cut the motor off for about 30 minutes it works fine again for a couple more hours. Also, when the intensity of the air coming out of the vents dies down the blower motor sounds like it is working harder to put out the little bit of air pressure.
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1990 Maxima..245,000 miles...car idles fine except when sitting at stoplight for more than 15 seconds, then idle starts to drop slowly and become unstable. Then there is a separate issue: After putting the car in Park (after warming up) the car will drop/surge from approximately 1500 to 1800 rpms three times and then go back down to normal (I am guessing transmission clutch).
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I have Nissan Maxima 1997, yesterday I was not able to start my car and so my mechanic replaced Starter. After replacing starter car is starting but now when I start driving it just starts for few feet's and stops suddenly. When it stops engine also stops, I can start car again and it again drives and than stop completely. This is happening continuously when I do reverse or fwd driving both. I suspect that this has something to do with replacement of Starter, during replacement my mechanic dismantle few things to reach the starter and I doubt that some part is not loose and not plugged in properly. I never faced this issue in the past.
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Just recently bought a 07 Nissan Maxima SE. Has a few issues.
The car sun roof does not work at all. It worked the day I bought it though.
Has issues turning on. Cranks slowly then after a few seconds of struggle it turns. Didn't have this issue when I bought it.
Goes idle when first starting to drive. From park, I put the car in drive, or reverse, and let go of the brake, it basically does nothing. Engine is on as if it were in park or neutral, but the car doesnt move. When I press the gas it takes a few seconds before it decides to actually move.
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Okay, I was driving down the freeway and suddenly my temperature gauge zoomed to Hot and steam rose out of the car. I stopped the car and let it cool down, then drove the 5 miles very slowly to the mechanic-stopping twice to let it cool completely.
I got it to the mechanic and a huge crack appeared across the top of the radiator when the car was on. New radiator time-gotcha. She has 235K miles on her and before this ran like she was brand new.
Now not a couple days later, I started noticing that transmission fluid was leaking about 1/2 cup of fluid a day dripping down from the axle. Can I use a stop leak for transmissions/transaxle? Would it fix the issue temporarily...
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Have a 2009 Limited with 14,500 miles. After driving an hour at 75 MPH on interstate on a hot day, the car died. The immobilizer warning light came on, and I coasted to a stop. Waited a couple minutes, the car started right up, ran fine. Went a few miles, and car died again. This time check engine light also came on. After couple more times, car towed to dealer. No problem apparent at dealer. 4 codes were active - all HO2S Signal Stuck Lean. Dealer called Hyundai tech and were told to check gas quality and replace all ground bolts and sand paint at contact. Gas was O.K. Took for 42 mile test drive, no problem. I drove home on interstate and after an hour same thing happened. Obviously not a ground problem. Now running fine and at my local Hyundai dealer.
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Recently while driving in good weather, no rain, about 35 mph my 2003 Nissan Maxima stalled. It failed to restart on the first try, but on the second, started right up without trouble and has been fine since. I took it to a garage where they could find no obvious problem. They said I might have 3 things done to potentially address the issue:
1) replace the air filter
2) do an "idle relearn procedure"
3) flush the fuel induction system.
Whether these would be a good idea, or whether I should just ignore the problem?
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My Nissan Altima is normally fine but after about 40 minutes to an hour of driving even in cool temperatures the car stops wanting to accelerate much and the RPM needle will jump from 1-2k to 5k almost instantly when applying more gas. I can be at 5k RPMs and barely climb 1 to 2 mph every few seconds in my car. This issue will persist till I turn the car off for a short while. Once The car has cooled down and been idle for a bit the car works fine again for 40 to 60 minutes. I also don't want to take it in because I doubt they'll get the problem to reproduce unless they drive it for up to an hour.
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My 2000 Maxima manual, only in hot wether after driving for 30-40 min. revolutions start rising by itself and can go very high, becomes impossible to drive,have to shot off the car. I have this problem for 10 years and dealer is saying that they never heard anything like that.
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I have Nissan Maxima 1996, everything is good as far as I know until recently it started stopping shutting off on the road, sometimes when am going at high speed it gradually decreases speed and come to stop.
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My car has been stalling out while at stop lights and while driving as well as spuddering and hesitating . i brought it in to the shop twice and both times they said it ran fine . they ran the code and gave me a new oxygen sensor and it still stalled. i brought it to autozone today and they ran the code and camshaft position sensor came up. so i put a new one in and it still is stalling and hesitating to drive. also smells really bad when it kick in. What could be wrong . short circuit or wiring trouble maybe? fuel pump ? crankshaft? electrical problem? spark plugs? cant get a straight answer.
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When the car is cold it runs fine. After driving for 10-15 minutes the transmission slips, while driving the engine revs and then engages again.I have only noticed the disengaging/engaging as speeds less than 40 MPH. When the car is in neutral and placed into drive it may take several seconds to engage which happens about 60% of the time. Could this be a sensor failure or time for a new transmission?
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I have a 2003 Nissan Xterra 4 clyd. My AC will stop blowing cold air after driving for about 15-20 minutes. The light on the controls is still on and seems to be running. If I turn off the AC switch and let it sit for about 5-10 minutes and turn it back on (can hear the compressor kick on) it will blow cold air again for another 15-20 minutes or sometimes less. If I turn the switch too early the compressor won't turn on. I've checked the levels on the freon and had the thermal amplifier replaced. Also the fan clutch was replaced, which I was told by the mechanic that would fix the AC problem.
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In hot weather, after hard driving for an hour or more, usually (but not always) with a/c running, the engine on my 1998 Almera (a/k/a N15 or Pulsar) stops. The idiot lights come on and if the radio or CD player was on, it shuts off. I can immediately shift to neutral, turn the key, and the engine restarts almost instantaneously, with no difficulty. (I've gotten quite good at this, and can restart the car within a couple seconds, even while I'm coasting as a result of the original engine shutoff.)No matter how hard I drive the car, the problem happens ONLY in hot weather. I've had the beast worked on by competent Nissan mechanics, but no one has been able to figure out the cause.
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I have a 1999 Nissan Maxima that I am going to pass on to my soon to be 16 year old daughter. Her sister had it when she was 17-18 after I used it for several years. It has 240,000 miles, is in excellent condition and has had many of the vital components of the vehicle replaced. It now suddenly has started blowing a whitish smoke from the tailpipe. It has a very strong fuel smell while at idle or at a stop light or sign. It losses no oil, or coolant. The service engine light came on at the same time roughly that this smoke showed up. Under diag. hook-up it says bad o2 sensor. Should I assume that replacing the o2 sensor will solve this issue? If so, is that something I could do? I read online how to do it and it seems rather simple.
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The electric windows in the front seem to be very lazy. When you depress the button, it goes down slowly and eventually stops halfway. Does it need a lube?
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I’ve been having a bit of a problem with my 99 Nissan Sentra that is becoming more and more costly every day. It started with my airbag light flashing, so I pulled over to see what might be wrong. I turned the car off, and when I went to start it again it wouldn’t start. I had the battery checked out and it was fine; I ended up changing the starter and the ignition switch. This worked for a week. Later I left my car running in the morning to warm it up, and it did the same thing, the airbag light came on and the battery went dead.
I jumped it and the battery wore itself out again, so this time I took it to the mechanic to replace the alternator. This worked for a week. This time my wife was driving down the highway, the airbag light came on again, and the battery went dead. After a costly tow from the police impound to my home, it will jump, but the battery slowly dies. The only noticeable problems the car has (aside from the obvious battery going dead) is that there is a belt that squeals when I have the air conditioner turned on and I have an oil leak somewhere.
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I have a 2011 Nissan Maxima SV that has poor gas mileage. I took it to Nissan to get checked out but they said there's nothing they could do because the car is showing no codes or no check engine light. I got my spark plugs changed, it seemed like it worked but a week or so later, it went back to how it was (the gas mileage). 2 weeks later, my mechanic checked the spark plugs in front of me, no rust or leaks on them. I burn a half tank of gas every 2 days and that's just driving local to work and back.
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The ac compressor on my 2003 Maxima keeps going out. Mechanic says the replacements are refurbrished, as the new ones are hard to find and expensive. 143,000 on the car.
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I just got my CRV back together yesterday (its been a very busy few months).. GOOD news the AC is nice a cold now !! The bad news is that apparently one of my cooling fans is bad.. The passenger side fan, with the AC on MAX, sometimes spins very slowly, other times not at all. If I push start it it will work for a while (but spin very slowly). Now I am trying to fix this on the cheap, so my question is can I get away with out replacing the whole fan.. Can I service this motor??
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