Nissan - Sentra :: 1999 - Airbag Light Flashing / Battery Slowly Dies
Jan 20, 2012
I’ve been having a bit of a problem with my 99 Nissan Sentra that is becoming more and more costly every day. It started with my airbag light flashing, so I pulled over to see what might be wrong. I turned the car off, and when I went to start it again it wouldn’t start. I had the battery checked out and it was fine; I ended up changing the starter and the ignition switch. This worked for a week. Later I left my car running in the morning to warm it up, and it did the same thing, the airbag light came on and the battery went dead.
I jumped it and the battery wore itself out again, so this time I took it to the mechanic to replace the alternator. This worked for a week. This time my wife was driving down the highway, the airbag light came on again, and the battery went dead. After a costly tow from the police impound to my home, it will jump, but the battery slowly dies. The only noticeable problems the car has (aside from the obvious battery going dead) is that there is a belt that squeals when I have the air conditioner turned on and I have an oil leak somewhere.
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My new to me 2001 Prius has a slowly flashing Airbag light. Reading this handy forum I found that by jumping two pins on the OBD port I could read the codes generated by the flashing lights. I did that, and have a 3233 and 4448. The car runs and drives fine, fluids are all good etc. Can the codes be cleared and see if they return?
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My friend told me for the past year she has been having trouble with her sentra. she has taken it to the dealer & they could not figure out whats going on. So here is what she described to me. '02 nissan sentra exe with 54k miles. when she gets to a stop light/sign and the car is at idle, it stalls. she said it stalls when slowly going in reverse out of her driveway and when she slows down to pull into her driveway. the check engine light has never turned on and the car starts back up again right away. What is going on?
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My girlfriend's 2000 Nissan Sentra has about 130k on it. The car has a lot of issues to say the least. The catalytic converter needs to be replaced, the car barely passed inspection, and it periodically stalls out at stop lights and in traffic. Those issues aside, the car has been running well until this week. On monday, the car suddenly died when stopped at a light and the ABS and other lights all went on. Now the car only starts with a jump and will not stay running if the jumper cables are disconnected. Additionally, all of the electronics in the car are nor working. The radio will not work and the windows and power locks barely work.
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My car (Nissan 1998) runs normally for miles. Then sometimes it just starts lurching while in motion when the gas is depressed and looses speed, as if not getting fuel. Previous times it dies after this. The last time I was on the highway going 70 and I pulled over before it lost power and died completely. Just had new brakes installed, new distributor, all new belts, and an oil leak fixed by a mechanic.
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While reinstalling my battery after working on my 94 sentra my negative battery cable melted my negative terminal.
I installed the positive first then went to do the negative and huge spark/smoke and I see my terminal melted on the one side.
What might be causing this?
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Came on other day. No ses light or fault codes. What it means?
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2001 Celica, battery dead after seeming to crank more slowly each time it was started during the day (wife was driving). I disconnected the battery to charge/test it, after reconnecting it started immediately but after 1-2 seconds engine dies. RPMs can be coaxed up to 3,000 in that time, but even though it seems to be running fine it shuts completely off, no coughing or sputtering. Won't start at all unless key is turned off and then back on, then it will do the same as described above.
It's giving a P1300 Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 1 error code. Possible causes listed are:
- Ignition Coil No. 1 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition Coil No. 1 circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Ignition Coil No. 1
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
Seems to me a lot like the last, the ECM.
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I have a 99 Nissan Sentra. It does not start when parked under the sun or when the weather is hot. It starts great in the morning when it is cool. The battery is new. When the car does not start, the lights come on OK (engine check light et al.), but there is no sound, no clicking ( that I can hear), no nothing happens. I heard from a mechanic that I need to change the distributor; another said that it is the starter.
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So recently my service engine light came on suddenly and I saw my tachometer acting a little weird along with my car vibrating slightly at stop lights. I know I should get this checked out because it's better to nip this problem in the bud early on before the problem worsens or starts to affect other parts of the car. My questions are,
What the problem is? I've read online that sometimes the service engine soon light comes on because of small issues that can be resolved by e.g. tightening the gas cap etc etc or it may be something that requires professional attention. I don't want to have to see a mechanic if the issue can be resolved by myself.
I've had terrible experiences with mechanics, what often happens is that I get charged for work done and the problem isn't solved. This happened once with an individual mechanic and I'll probably look at certified dealers such as Mossy Nissan. But that being said, the reviews of all the Nissan certified service centres in my area have horrible ratings and reviews so even going to them is a hesitation for me.
How can I protect myself from getting ripped off? What information should I ask for or tell them? Do i ask them for the codes when they run a diagnostic test and what should I expect to get charged for and what should I expect not to get charged for.
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I have a 2006 nissan sentra about 58,100 miles. The car recieves the regular oil changes. I got a service engine light and a mechanic saw it. He scanned the car and nothing came up as a cause so he cleared the light. The light has popped up again. What can I do ?
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My 2002 Nissan Sentra's check engine light keeps coming on. It came on about three weeks ago, and our mechanic replaced an oxygen sensor. Two or three days later, it came back on. He figured the first sensor was faulty, and replaced it with another. The light came on as I was driving away from the place. The mechanic replaced some of the wires. And now, a week after that, the light came on again.
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I have a manual 2000 Nissan Sentra with 101,000 miles. The Service Engine Soon light stays on. I was told it was an vacuum leak or mass air flow or basically the mixture of oxygen is off. (I already had one mass air flow put in a few years ago.) I have been ignoring the message. We went camping and drove twice to 9,000 feet. No problems on road at all. The car runs great. In fact we got 35 mpg on the trip. Am I possibly hurting the car by ignoring the message?
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I filled up my gas after it was a little under half a tank . I tighten my gas cap . I started my car then out of the blue the check engine came on. I shut off car and tighten gas cap again making sure it was as tight as it could be . I started my car again and the solid check engine light stayed. It is a 2006 Nissan sentra automatic 1.8 . About 70,000 miles
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I've replaced my starter motor 3 times this year. OK - I can live with that. But now it's also stalling. I'm not confortable driving a car in Los Angeles traffic that could die at any time. Mechanics can find nothing wrong except the starter motor needs to be replaced again.
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I recently purchased a 1999 Nissan Sentra with 189K on it. The car runs great and the AC ran ice cold. The porblem was when the AC turns on a very loud noise is heard it sounds like a million crickets chirping.I took it to a mechanic and he said it was a bad AC Compressor. So I replaced the AC compressor, belt tensioner pulley and serpentine belt.The noise is still there.So here is my further troubleshooting:1. the noise is clearly present when the AC is on.2. With the AC off the noise is heard only in short burst of maybe a second or two.3. When I remove the FAN relays (all 3) the noise goes away (with or without AC on).4. If i leave the fan relays in a disconnect the FANS power, you can still hear the noise. (So the fans are not the issue)5. I also removed the AC clutch and the noise is still heard.
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When I start my car it bogs down, dies, & the battery & oil light come on. I am able to start it & rev it up & then go but will die & I do the same then it goes, but recently acts as if it is dying while driving.It started a couple weeks ago while I was driving but restarted & figured it was the battery as it was old & tested badly. I bought a new battery, changed the oil, & air filter for maintenance & it ran fine for a could weeks.Now it is wise than when it started & dies more often.Do you think it could be the plug & wires or alternator?Do not feel like spending a lot of money to go through every part.1999 Chevy Cavalier 2.2L 5 speed.
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I recently had my "Service Engine Light" come on, Sunday to be exact. I went through my normal procedure of checking the fuel cap and drove several times to no avail. So today I ran by Autozone where I got the P0302 code. Now I realize I could go in for a tune up, but I'm a college student and just spent all my money on books so I'm looking for some DIY solutions before I lay down any large amounts of money. Where to start. As for a bit more background, I filled my car up with gas on Friday, the light came on Sunday and the car will shake on initial idle of the car.
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I live in CA and recently my car passed the smog test, but failed inspection because the check engine light on the board was on. When the diagnostic test was done, it said there's a problem with the catalytic converter. It's so frustrating because the car's emissions are within limits. , I was thinking... Is there a way to get the catalytic converter to run cleaner without replacing it? If it can run long enough to pass the diagnostic test, my car could pass inspection.
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This problem is really hard to describe. About a month ago, during super-cold weather (teens or single digits) while driving in traffic I felt the transmission sort of ripple or slip as I slowed down for a red light. When I attempted to go forward on the green light, the car resisted at about 10 mph - kind of like trying to go 50 mph in first gear - like it wasn't shifting. At the repair shop they told me there was ice around the wheels and they chipped it off. They drove the car and said it didn't have the other problem. A couple of weeks later, the car did it again, this time near a shopping mall, also on a very cold day (teens or 20s). I drove it into the mall at around 10 mph, parked it, was in the mall for a while, came out - no problem until last weekend - also very cold weather (teens or 20s). This time it happened at around 40 mph.
It started to slow down and I could feel the transmission slipping or rippling, then it felt like trying to go 50 mph in 1st gear and abruptly slowed down to about 10 mph. I pulled over to the side of the road, turned the ignition off, waited about a minute, started it up again and it was OK. No more problem. I took it to the repair shop and told them what happened. The mechanic said it's not the transmission because they checked it when they had it before. He said it might be the part of the computer that tells the transmission at what speed to shift. They now have the car, have driven it about 20 miles, the problem didn't show up, and one of the mechanics took it home to drive around over the weekend. By the way, the Service Engine Soon light has been on for about 2 years. I took it in once to have it fixed and it stayed off for a few months, then came on again.
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(This is a continuation of a previous thread: [URL] ..... )
I have a 2005 Nissan Sentra with 75,000 miles on it. Several months ago (see above link) the check engine light came on with a P0304 cylinder 4 misfire code. The only symptom appears to be a rough idle/shaking every 3rd or 4th start for the first 10-15 seconds, but runs smoothly afterwards. My mechanic replaced all my spark plugs (I had new plugs put it at 50,000 miles for the same issue) of which the one from cylinder 4 was worn down much more than the rest. The problem persisted so they replaced my fuel pump and fuel filter and switched the spark coils from cylinder 4 to a different cylinder, but the code still read cylinder 4 so it wasn't the coil. That was back in October.
I took my car back in last week for the same problem and without starting my car (because the problem is worst on the first start) they pushed my car into the bay and did a smoke test, no leaks in the fuel lines. Then they checked the cylinder and said that there was "excess" fuel in the cylinder and replaced the fuel injector. Then after ~3 days the check engine came back on with the same P0304 misfire code. Previous repairs/diagnostics rule out spark plugs, coils, fuel pressure, and injectors.
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