Nissan - Murano :: 2004 - Check Engine Light Comes On / Slow To Start
Mar 11, 2013
my 2004 Nissan Murano has suddenly encountered a slight problem, and when i mean slight, I mean I am pretty concerned about it. Two days ago, I was driving in a school zone on the way to work when my car stopped working! All of the dash lights came on and the gas did not work. So, I stopped the car, parked, turned it off, then turned it back on. It was slow to start, but started, and got me to work. Since then, the check engine light is always on, and it sounds like it wont start when i turn it on, but does. We thought it might be a battery problem, so we got the battery changed, but that didn't work. I am afraid to drive it a lot because i don't want to make anything worse.
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I stopped at traffic light and my car went off and won't start again. I had it towed home, it will jump start and keep on running as long as the jump start pack stays connected. As soon as i disconnect the jumpstarter it shuts off. There are no warning lights on the dash while engine is running. My guess is alternator is bad and car ran on battery till battery was discharged and the it stopped on the road. Now if this was the case shouldn't there be a battery and/or break warning light on the dash while car is running on battery?
Also if it were a battery problem then the car should run on power from the alternator once it's jump started right? In which case there should be a battery warning light on the dash right? I know the dash lights aren't bad because when i turn the key to the on position all the lights show up, including the battery light. I will like to take out the alternator and bring it the the shop for testing but before doing this I'll like some input since I'm not very convinced it's the alternator because there's no battery signal on the dash while engine is running on battery.
Car is: 2004 Nissan Murano AWD CVT trans106K Miles
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Have a 2004 Nissan Murano with 149K miles. Service engine light came on about 2 months ago and the dealership said the catalytic converter needs to be replaced...for $1200 parts/labor. Car starts fine but runs very rough and I get a thumping noise from under car for the first 10-15 miles. Also noticed a drop off in MPG from normal 20 to about 17.5. I'm hoping to keep this car a while, but need assurance the Cat converter is really the problem. Saw several similar posts make reference to the O2 sensor. How can I be sure what's needed to fix this?
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So after my husband went and got an oil change, and after the mechanic said there was nothing wrong with the car "good choice on the vehicle", he drives off, parks, comes out, and starts the car, only to make it 2 blocks. Now the vehicle is stranded on the side of the street. What the hell happened?!
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I have a 2004 Nissan Frontier pickup that I bought used in 2012. Shortly after I purchased it the the check engine light came on, would go off and back on. Last year (before inspection) I hooked it to the diagnostic auto scanner and it read the error as four oxygen sensors. The truck was running fine but in order to get it inspected I ended up changing all four sensors. The light came back on within the week (as soon as it rained) then would go off a few days later. Rain--on, then off. I managed to get it in for inspection on one of the days the light was off. So, now it is again inspection time. Light is on, still error on the scanner as oxygen sensors. Light has not gone off in a long time.
Also noting here that I have checked this error on several different scanners. The truck is running fine. Before I take it to the dealership is there anything else this could be?
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At first it began to slow start. Just some coughing before it would start for sure. Sometimes it would start right away, sometimes struggle.
I took it to Advance Auto Parts to have the battery tested and they said the battery was fine.
A day later the car would not crank at all and stranded me at the grocery store. The starter began to fire and then it would stop. After 4-5 tries it would not try to turn over at all.
My friend came and tried to jump me and the care started right up!
When I got home, the car was able to start on it’s own the couple times I tried. I risked going back to Advance to have them test out the battery again, as well as the test of the alternator and starter. Everything again tested fine, as far as they could tell.
While there the car again failed to crank and they heard the noise and immediately felt that the starter was the culprit. I ordered one just to be safe as it took some time to get here. (Plus a starter is like 2 bolts and a wire, what could go wrong?) >.>
I got a jump and got home. I did A LOT of reading, which led me to believe that perhaps it WAS the battery after all.
Last night I began preparations to replace the starter and check for corrosion or a bad cable. How difficult is that starter is to get to! I had to remove the ECM as part of the process.
Today I got the starter as well as a new battery.
First thing I tried was just replacing the batter. No luck, and the starter did not even engage this time. I tried tapping it with a hammer to see if that worked. No luck.
It was at that point I realized I had not connected all the ECM cables securely. I disconnected the battery, reconnected the ECM fully and still had no luck.
Now when I press the ignition button there is a slight whir, and the gauges come up, but there is no other activity.
Is this still a starter problem?Did I screw up the ECM somehow?Is there a short or fuse issue (I have tried to check with my limited knowledge)
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My oil light came on today while I was driving. I made it to work but the light didn't stay on it flashed and went back off but the car took a while when I stepped on the gas it stalled then took off. Does it means I need an oil change or are there bigger problems.? Can I drive the car home?
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I have a 2000 f350 7.3 got a check engine light that turns off when rpms go up and a slow start. My mechanic said that there were no codes being blown, what is going on?
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I keep failing my emissions because my check engine light keeps coming on. I was told that the problem was the catalytic converter rear and needed to buy one for both sides. The problem I am having that I don;t know which Catalytic Converter I should buy. I know without it is causing my car to stutter. Which I should get?
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2004 nissan murano SE.. Today my vehicle took a while to start , then the CEL came on. The battery is fine had the output levels checked, we are very weary of mechanics in the area..
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When i step on the gas there's a rattling noise in the engine like it's starving for gas but when i put super unleaded in it goes away.
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I have a Nissan Murano 2004 SL AWD.I got the car last year and since I got the car, my gas pedal was not working properly during certain condition. You would think my car is haunted, believe me!
The main problem is: after driving for 30 minutes, when I come to a complete stop, my gas pedal does not respond directly. I have to press the gas pedal all the way and release it for the car to start driving.The more I do this process after the problem occurs, the more time the gas pedal will respond after I completely floor it. For example, after 15 minutes of such problem occurring, I need about 2.5 seconds for the gas pedal to work after flooring it. After 30 min of the problem occurring, I need about 3 sec. to 3.5 sec. and on a hill, the respond time takes even longer!
Now here is the funny part...I have notice that whenever it's hot outside, the problem with my gas pedal does not occur after 30 minutes but it will occur after less time, maybe after 15 to 20 minutes of driving.When it's colder like during the winter the problem will occur after 40 minutes of driving.
Here is another funny thing. When my gas pedal start acting up, if I go to park my car and turn my engine off for about... 5 to 10 minutes, less or more, the gas pedal starts working again for the next 10 to 15 minutes before acting up again.
I really want to fix it.It's not bothering me sometimes but today I was at a red light on a hill and my car just did not accelerate at all for about 3 seconds while my car was sliding down and people beeping at me. It's really getting me irritated!
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I have a 2004 Nissan Murano. Recently I noticed that the motor is noisy while running and idling both - no difference. I can't really hear it outside of the car, but I sure can inside. It's even worse when it's cold. Is this something to be concerned about?We took it to a local mechanic who could hear the noise, but what was causing it.
The last time we had several trips to mechanics with no answers, we wound up replacing a transfer case that went kaplooey. We had at least three mechanics on that one. No one knew why it smelled like burned oil, or leaked a little. Until it went out completely.
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I have a 2003 Nissan Murano with over 100k miles on it that's been serving me well for the past year and I've never had any problems until now. One day when I was accelerating after a stop light turned green the car stalled. I restarted it and it did it again right away. I was visiting my family at the time but managed to drive the 2.5 hours home with no problem and this has only happened once since and it has been awhile since the event. I have since started accelerating slower, but I think a problem is still present. I went to Autozone for a free code reading and received 3 possible codes: P0746, P0430, and P1700. The check engine light came on not long before the first occurrence.
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I have a 2007 Prius which today, for the first time ever, refused to start. I pressed the Start button and all that happened is the "check engine" and "airbag" lights came on (dimly), and the green LED on the "P" (park) button began blinking. I pressed the "Start" button again but nothing I can do will change this. The car is sitting in my garage now, in this condition. I turned the dome light on briefly and it was very dim, so I suspect the 12v battery is dead. Only problem is, to access it requires opening the back hatchback door, which won't open without 12v power. Meanwhile the tiny bit of power that's left is being drained by the system in it's half-on condition (above). If I could get to the battery I could connect an external charger to charge it up enough to start it but I can't. What should do?
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All most 30 days after I bought my 2009 prius it started having problems with the doors unlocking and also starting. By putting the fog in the slot it would still start. Two months ago it wouldn’t start at all. I thought the battery was dead so I had it jump started. From that point on the car would work put the touch screen didn’t. A month ago the touch screen started working but then the car starting issues began again, all the dashboard lights coming on.
Two days ago I drove the car, turned it off, and when I tried turning it on five minutes later it all the dash lights came on and it wouldn’t let me shift into drive. Last night the same thing happened only after inserting the fob into the slot the dash lights no longer came on, and now the check engine light will come up and that is it. The owner’s manual says: malfunction in the electronic hybrid system control system; in the electronic throttle control system; or the transmission control system. I know what these words mean, but I don't know why this would all of the sudden happen.
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I accidentally have the check machine red icon on my Car firstly I have departure the car without close the door after I turn off the car and turn on again it appear the check engine red icon and after that a few minute my Car can't start and have long beep sound and my car timing reset to wrong and seems mess up everything now what I can do just turn the car off and can't do anything with it.
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I have a Nissan Altima 2000 with about 98,000 miles. The "check engine" light has been on. This happened once before and eventually the light went off, but now it is on again. I read the manual and it said that the gas cap isn't on tight enough. Checked that and it is fine - but the light never went off. Should I bring it in to a mechanic?
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I have a 2001 Nissan Pathfinder. How do I get to the trouble codes & how do I remove check engine light?
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2007 Prius. It is a very cold day (5 F) and it won't start. I pushed the button as usual- first time the keys were still in the house and it did give the indication. Then the panel lit up normally but wouldn't go into reverse. Then I tried shutting down, had to hit the button a few times, and now all I get is the check engine light and a fan is running somewhere. The other thing to note is there was a beeping when I opened the door when I first got in and was running around getting the keys etc.
I have two little ones who don't like me to spend time on the computer, so I did a quick look around here and saw that the red triangle symbol with the exclamation point means the 12 volt battery is low. I get that warning on and off for probably at least a year... couldn't find any information on it in the manual so I was just ignoring it. Does this mean my 12 volt is completely dead? Is that the hybrid battery or the regular battery like in a regular car?
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So let's start with this. A week ago my dad went to start his car after going to the store. I wasn't there so can't say exactly what happened but when I got there the car would basically go into accessory mode with check engine light VSC and triangle on. Also displayed problem on the screen. I checked 12v battery with just the radio on (one button press with foot off brake) and it only showed 12.0 volts. So I hooked our jump box directly to the battery and it still wouldn't start. I scanned it for error codes and it showed nothing but I could erase them and the lights went off so probably codes from one of the hybrid computers I can't read but the car still wouldn't ready. I unhooked the 12v for about 30 second seconds and the car started fine without the jump box hooked up.
At this point I don't have any codes and with nothing to go off of I'm at a loss. We drive it 8 miles back to our shop and it drove normally with no errors. Once it was back in the shop after turning the car on and off 10 times or so still no errors. On the last time it was in ready mode and the errors came back on, still with no codes I could read. His 12v optima was still under warranty so we got it exchanged for free even though I was reluctant that it would fix the issue. Well a week went by and all seemed to be fine until yesterday.
My dad had left the car in ready mode for probably 20 minutes and when he got back in it all the lights were on. I will also add that the battery fan was operating normally and not screaming like if there was a traction battery issue. I changed one of the modules in his traction battery about 6 months ago when one failed. Without any codes I don't know where to start with this problem. 2005 with 170k miles....
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