I drive a 1992 Nissan Primera 2.0 slx wagon, automatic. The engine starts at normal rpm, about 1500 then, with my foot off the accelerator, it begins to rise until, after 3 minutes or so it's at 2500 and rising. I should also point out that recently the car's been overheating after a short drive. I'm going to flush the coolant system and replace the fluid. Are these two faults related?
View 4 RepliesI drive a 1992 Nissan Primera wagon 2.0 slx, automatic transmission. Generally the car has been the picture of reliablility. Just lately it "chugs," especially evident when I'm at low speed of idling. This morning, as I idled for few minutes, the rpm's fluctuated between 1000 and 2000 rpms, as if I was depressing the accelerator.
View 1 RepliesMy 94 850 turbo wagon starts rough and idles very high. the rpms dont come down. After turning car off, wont restart again unless I let in sit for a while.
View 11 Replieshave a 1992 nissan 240sx; it shakes when i started the engine or when it idles or @ a complete stop. runs well on freeway & was able to drive home. mechanic thinks it's probably cylinders not firing well over phone prognosis. it also sounds like there may be a leak. it stalled a few times & had to restart the car. no problems restarting. have not brought it in for diagnosis.
View 3 RepliesMy 1992 960 automatic wagon with 326K miles has started to kind of lurch into low gear, especially from a stop or a rolling stop where I am not giving any gas but not using the brake. Then when I do give it some gas, it doesn't do anything at first, then it clunks into motion, and it seems to me the rpms are pretty high (3K). Once it gets going it seems fine, and it upshifts and downshifts as expected (well, occasionally it clunks changing gears at highway speeds, but it has done that for a long time). Yesterday during stop-and-go traffic (more than 100 miles worth) I was so stressed out wondering if it was going to completely die.
The winter mode arrow indicators have been stuck On for years, by the way, but it has never acted as if it thought it really was in winter mode (where you start up in third). They didn't think it was worth fixing, as it would have been very expensive and wasn't really affecting anything. I don't think my current issue could be that, though -- surely it wouldn't be clunking into gear then?
My 1992 chevy s-10 is running really bad it idles high ( like around 2000 rpm to 1000 rpm) it starts high then slows down. Then when i drive it, it kinda stumbles. Iguess u can say it makes all kinds of noises and beats and bangs and if I am going up a hill some times it shuts off. It has a manual trany and a stock 4.3 motor. I need the truck to get back and forth to work....
View 3 RepliesI have a buddy with a 2006 Sonata, 3.3. It has about 138,000 miles on it.
When it gets hot, it will LEAP into gear. As if when you put it in gear, the throttle is pushed open 10% or something. Kinda like you would do with an old Ford or Chevy (like the 70's) that stalls when you put in gear. When it gets really hot, like after driving it for 30 or 40 miles, when you come to a stop, you lose the vacuum boost on the brakes, and the engine just goes on the pre-detonating rampage! It literally sounds like Dodge with Cummins diesel in it! It's fighting you while you struggle to keep it from LAUNCHING off the line. The strange thing is, as it is put back into N or P, it returns to normal instantaneously as if nothing was wrong in the first place.
My bud took it to the dealer, here is what they think it could be:
1. Clogged cats (nope, no back pressure, already checked)
2. Wrong spark plugs (it does not have the OEM direct replacement, it has some kind of dual electrode deal in it, but the part number crosses as an acceptable replacement)
3. The dealer did say that the ecm is up to date and that the throttle body is calibrated. That's what I thought it was in the first place.
In my professional opinion, I think it might be a ragged out timing belt. But I'm a domestic mechanic, not so strong with the imports (not trolling here, seriously, I work with fleets 99% of the time).
And there are no codes either.
I've read a lot on hear but can't seem to find what I need. I just replaced one of the battery cells. Now when I drive for about 20 min the engine idles high and the energy read out stops charging the hybrid battery. The AC recirculation turns off on its own. I have a few codes. the O2 sensor and cat code. The p3006. I had one cell that i didn't replace that was reading 6.9 volts. I thought that it would charge back up on its own. We went of vacation for 2 weeks and the car didn't get driven. I found out that's not good for an older prius.
View 5 RepliesFourth attempted fix failed. 2 times with "regular" mechanics, once with Kia dealership. My 2006 Kia Optima will drive fine for about 20-30 minutes (last time 18 miles) I'll hit a bump, stop, or turn a corner and then it acts up (engine light comes and goes). I have to drive with my foot on the gas at stops it wont come down from 40mph unless I break, It once wouldn't go past 40 though and I thought it was going to stall out on me. Once shut off, It has trouble starting, but will start.
Shut it off, it runs again fine for the next 10min or more. I have had the crank-shaft sensor replaced three times, (last by dealer for double the cost) New battery just put in a couple of months ago, spark plugs, the throttle body was cleaned, and threw in some high octane gas cleaner in the tank as well.Every time I take it in, they say "it's not acting up right now so we don't know" ....The only other issues that don't seem too important right now are back sway bar and flex pipe.
I am having an issue with my transmission. Mine will not accelerate when in reverse, at all. When I take off in overdrive, the car revs up really high until about 30mph and then finally shifts and seems to drive normal at about 45-65mph,after that the car revs really high up to about 70mph (then i slow down). No problems with gear 1 and 2.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1992 850 Estate (wagon) which has been making a funny noise when driving. I cannot locate it. The noise only happens when driving, I have never herd it when stationary. Most often when cold but not exclusively. I have examined all the items attached to the engine driven by the serpentine belt all run smoothly. The belt was changed just after I bought it.
I have checked the wheel arches to see if the tyres rub but no. The suspension is fairly new with new anti-roll bar links fitted for last MOT. The noise sounds like a dry bearing and is a combination of a rub and a screech, there is no loss of coolant but I suspect the water pump or one of the tensioning rollers to be at fault. The last owner told me that the belt had been changed a few months before I bought the car (off Ebay) but he did not say anything about the rollers or water pump and I did not ask.
One other point is that when I bought the car I had to add a full 5 litres of oil to the sump due to their being no oil on the dip stick. Since then the engine has run well (good engineering) but this noise is happening and as I have said it is driving me nuts.
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My 1992 240 wagon (injection) is intermittently stalling, and missing. The lambda light is on the dash. Last year it was doing something similar, but not as bad, and I took it to Volvo and they cleaned the throttle body and said it should be ok, and it was for a while, but now it's worse. Ignition parts are mostly new, I doubt it's that. When it stalls it nearly always starts straight away. When it's missing badly but not stalling, pressing the acc peddle does nothing, until it eventually catches on and revs properly.
I also find that when I have a full tank it's not so bad. When the tank was nearly empty it was particularly bad - it's winter and I was suspecting there was condensation in the tank.
Is there a 'backyard' way of getting the error codes? This could be a good start.
my 1992 960 wagon with 332K miles today started making a moaning noise when making a significant turn at low speed. At first it seemed to be only when I was accelerating but if that was true, it now is doing it at any low-speed big turn. Tonight, turning around in the driveway, it added what I call juddering during the turn. So naturally I am concerned.If it is something as minor as power steering fluid I might trust a local gas station to fill it up, but probably not any more than that. (There used to be a dealer about 45" away, but they seem to be gone now, and the closest one is hours away. I am 250 miles and one week away from my own trusted mechanic, so I hope it is something like fluid!).I haven't noticed any puddles on the driveway where it is parked, but I suppose it could leak out only when the engine is on and the car is moving.
View 4 RepliesThis is a 1991 Volvo 240 Automatic Station Wagon. The Check Engine Light has been on for at least 6 months, the timing belt was replaced 3 months ago , the battery is a month old, the oil was just changed, gas tank just filled and the odometer stopped at 259,000 miles before I bought it so it has well over 300,000. Yesterday morning it took a minute to start, which happens on occasion, but backed out and drove about a mile and stalled at a stop light. It finally started, after 6 false starts, and I turned around to go back home. It then stalled again but reversed just fine, so I got it turned around and drove in reverse the rest of the way home. It drove fine after a few hours but did the same thing today.
View 13 RepliesThe triangle, brake, vsc, CEL.
The brake and the vsc shut off after a short drive. Car seems to drive fine.
I have a 2001 9-5 that has exhibited a problem for maybe two or three years now: It sometimes fails to start (won't even crank) after a short drive and sitting for about an hour.
I drive to a pool almost every morning, swim for about an hour, and then drive back. It always starts fine first thing in the morning, but once in a while it won't start after swimming. When it fails to start, if I wait about 30 minutes, it then starts fine, as if there never was a problem.
It happens maybe once every few weeks. The dealer has never been able to get it to reproduce, nor to find any fault. If I replace the battery anyway, the problem doesn't happen again for 6-12 month. There's never any indication that the battery is at fault (it always tests fine), but replacing it seems to work for a while.
I have a radar detector plugged in to the cigarette lighter, and it displays the voltage. When the car fails to start, the display is generally just below 12v (maybe 11.8 or 11.9). Once it starts, it's well above 12.
I have a1997 Nissan Altima 140k miles with the manual transmission. I have a fuel problem that I can't seem to solve. every 1-2 days and only intermittently and unpredictably my car starts to idle up and down and occasionally if I don't give it enough gas they car may stall but the stalls only happen when I am not pressing the accelerator, meaning only at resting idle. since I am fanatic on washing my engine, I initially though that spark plugs were dirty or not working, I changed the spark plugs the distributor cap and the wires but the symptom continues. then I check the resistance of all the four fuel injectors and all of them read at around 12.8 ohms. I have also treated the fuel system twice with injector cleaner, the kind that you find at a gas station but still, the problem persists.
if it is not too much trouble I have another smaller questions. if the car sits overnight or for a couple days, the shift is really easy but as the car warms up the shifting becomes harder. could the transmission fluid need to drained and replaced?
I have a 02 golf and it runs great other then the reoccurring problem i have been experiencing. The problem doesn't happen every time i drive my car, but often. When i drive for a short period of time and i park and go to turn the car off, all the lights on the dash flash on and off, and most of my things restart. Some times i will stop at a stop light or sign and the car will just restart and turn off. I know this maybe something very small.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1998 F150 with 14300 plus miles. 4.6 engine. I have been smelling antifreeze after a drive long or short. I have looked for leaks but not finding anything.
View 1 RepliesLast week the ABS light comes on and will go off after a short drive. Obviously the Scanguage II does not read the code. I have replaced both front hubs last year and have less than 6k miles on them. I have checked the connections, and are good. I changed diff fluids around the same time as the hubs.
View 1 RepliesI am having overheating problems at high speed/high rpm/under load. The only codes ive gotten are EGR dpfe (0401). Truck is 99 f250 with the 6.8 new egr valve, dpfe, new coolant, new thermo, new sensor under manifold. I blew 90 lbs air pressure thru the egr lines, big and small, they were clear.
So whats left? I never hear my fan clutch......should I? I've had other trucks and the fan roared when first started for a few seconds, and then again when you were hot...they really roared.
Is it possible for the egr port where it goes into the throttle body to be plugged? guess I should've checked that when I had the egr off. Would an aux. fan be a waste of time?
This is pulling a 3500 lb camper trailer up moderate hills.