Nissan - Sentra :: No Power When Given Gas / Car Now Stuck In Limp Home Mode
May 29, 2013
A few months ago, my '00 Sentra developed a rough idle but I ignored it because it wasn't too bad, until recently at least. It had been getting progressively worse so I went out and bought some CRC MAF cleaner, which solved the rough idle altogether for about a day. After doing some errands, I started the car but it was now stuck in limp home mode, not matter how much gas I gave it, she wouldn't top 20 MPH and 2.5k revs.
I bought a new MAF, and that made the problem worse: in any drive gears or reverse, when given any gas, the engine would stall and die but when in neutral, I can rev it as high as I want to. I reset the computer and cleaned the new sensor to no avail. After re-installing the old sensor (which was visibly broken, it was missing an entire wire assembly), it will run poorly but will now drive with some quirks, and I don't trust it further than around the block.
My question is: with the new sensor, do I need an ECU reprogram, did I receive a bad sensor, or is there a compound problem? (I've heard with similar issues: bad alternator, bad TPS, bad IAC module, dirty IAC or TPS, clogged fuel filter, bad fuel pump, dirty air filter, among others.)
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I am one of the few that has ADC on my 2004 V10.
Occasionally, 3 times now. I press the ON button and the cruise control does not initialize properly. After a while it will say "Temporarily unavailable" . The problem is that then there is no power any more.
I stop on the hard shoulder of the motorway, engine off, engine on and all is reset, ADC works ok and full power is restored.
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I have a 1992 1500K extended cab 4WD with the 5.7L V8 engine (147,000 miles). It has been driving well since I bought it last winter. 2 days ago I took it on a longer road trip and it was doing great. Slowed down to take a 90 degree turn and the transmission suddenly hit "limp home" mode. It felt like it wasn't up-shifting out of 2nd , high RPMs while driving no more than 30mph on flat road. I have the proper amount of fluid and it is still red/pink and does not smell burnt.
Someone suggested that I check the transmission fuse but in looking through the fuse box I can't tell which is the tranny fuse. Also, I can only find one fuse box on my truck. Is there a 2nd?I feel like my next step is to take it to a transmission shop but I want to rule out whatever I can at home. I have zero experience with transmission work and don't want to get scammed into a rebuild if I don't need one. The transmission was working fine up until 2 days ago. No slipping, no hard shifting, and no noise...
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Truck: 2009 F-150 Lariat SCrew 5.4 4x4 with 6.5" bed
For the last few years, I've had this intermittent problem where the service engine light (wrench icon) will pop on and the truck will go into limp home mode. While it's in this mode, all of the indicators on the dash freak out. Low fuel warning will come on, temperature warning, low battery voltage, etc. Turning the truck off and back on (sometimes a couple times) is enough to get it back to normal, albeit with a check engine light that needs to be cleared. It's happened infrequent enough that I've just been dealing with it. I got the codes a couple years back, but there wasn't much information available on what the potential causes might be. The Checker Auto parts database suggested one might be related to a wheel speed sensor.
Well, this afternoon it happened again, and I was near an O'Reilly, so I took it in to pull the codes. There were 9 total in the system; 5 of which were unique:
B0025
B00D5
U0073
U0100
U0253
They didn't have any information on what was causing them. What could be causing this. I'm getting sick of having to clear the check engine light and worry about the truck falling into limp home mode when I'm at intersections.
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My families 2001 Nissan sentra often stalls at stoplights, has low power sometimes in the low rpm's and sometimes (though not always) chugs/jolts a bit at low rpms and has trouble "overcoming" that window and getting more power. If I give it more gas the engine seems to get "normal" at around 2500 or 3000 rpm's and then is fine.
We took it in and the mechanic said it was a bad O2 sensor or MAF sensor... can't remember which. We tried replacing the MAF sensor but it still has the problem. We have heard that we may need the computer re-set somehow or made to recognize and sync up with the new part. As we call around this is very expensive just to make a part that is already installed work. Is this necessary? What's the next, cheapest, step.
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My wife has a 2006 santa fe 3.5l limited over the winter it started acting up went into limp mode and would only go 20mph so I went and picked up a TP sensor well it went out of limp mode so I never changed the sensor well last month it started doing it again so I changed it out didn't work!!! comes up with 2 codes sometimes p2110 and p2118 but normally its p2110 2 times.
If I hit the break it kinda bogs down and pulsates.i took it to my mechanic since I couldn't figure it out and with advice from a hyundai mech. He changed APS didn't fix it so we changed throttle body with used of course didn't work I checked wires and didn't fined any open circuits what are the chances that i got a bad APS or TPS...
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My tranny is stuck in limp mode. I can manually shift it, but it won't shift on it's own. The 'automatic' part of the automatic transimission is definitely not working right.
I searched and checked for the usual suspects, low battery or alternator output (measured over 14v at batt. when on), and the range selector switch. I removed the switch, took it apart, cleaned it up, and reinstalled it. It looked like it was in decent shape inside, although it appeared to have had a bit of oil of some sort that had leaked into it. There was a bit of oil on that side of the tranny, around the gear selector and switch, but not enough to actually drip as I don't have any stains on my driveway where I always park. The only thing I haven't checked is the atf fluid level, as I can't seem to find the my wrench that will take off the fill nut. I'll get that figured out tonight.
The tranny hasn't been taken care of like it should, I've had the fluid replaced two or three times over 100k of ownership, but I'm not sure about the filter. Would the need for a filter and fluid change cause it to go into limp mode? Also, it's not throwing any CEL codes either.
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So yesterday, this had happened for the third time in 3 years owning this car. Unhooking the battery for 20-30 minutes resets the computer and it is ready to go for a while with no issues. This has become annoying though. What is causing the car to enter "limp" mode and stay in third gear? One time it happened, I brought it to AutoZone and they did a scan and came up with the speed sensor. I haven't replaced it because it didn't happen for a while after that.
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Wife come home the other day after leaving for work with the truck no going past 20KM to 30KM.. After some investigating it seems to be in Limp - In Mode. There was a Check-Engine light & after further investigation found a Vac hose with a leak, repaired this & test drove. Same issue.... then there was a loud hissing sound from the engine area so I investigate & now found the EGR sensor (DPEF pressure sensor ) had blow a hose & fried the sensor.
New sensor was replace along with 2-hoses cleared the engine light but the truck still will not go more then 20KM or 30KM max.. I checked the EGR valve with vac pump & engine stalls or so the valve is good. I have left the neg cable off the batt to try & clear the Limp-In mode without success. Looking for a way to clear the limp-in mode or do I need to clear it with a scan tool?
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My wife started up my 2005 GX470 this morning to go to work and drove maybe a half mile before she noticed a problem. So she turned around and drove it back home in limp mode. She put it in park and got out.
Most of the Warning Lights are on ( VSC OFF, VSC TRAC, Anti Skid, Check Engine etc). I tried moving the shift lever but there was some resistance and some grinding noises. And it now seems to be stuck in neutral.
How to diagnose this myself? We only drive this vehicle in the winter, and it was fine the last time we used it.
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I have a 2007 Prius and it will be my first car once I get my license. It has a bad traction control computer and is stuck in limp mode. I have a neighbor who has worked on these and will show me how to replace it. Right now I have two questions. I keep coming up with how to disable it not the actual part.
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Nissan XTerra 2005 transmission RE5R05A. Trouble code is p1757 When I go from park to drive it goes out of gear and puts my car in limp mode. I took it to the dealer and they told me that I have to replace a transmission another place told that it could be brake solenoid or oil filter. In third place they told me it could be the TCM problems.
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I have a 2005 2.7L Santa Fe that was shifting poorly and getting stuck in limp mode intermittently. I read up on it and found that it was probably an issue with the input/output speed sensors. The codes confirmed my suspicions and I replaced both the input and output sensors. The codes cleared and the tranny shifted like a dream. Unfortunately after 2 days and 100+ miles the car suddenly started down shifting randomly on my way home from work. The CEL came back on and the car went into limp mode. Could the sensor have gone bad again? Or could it be the wiring harness that plugs into one of the sensors? I don't understand why the car would be fine for a few days and then all of a sudden be acting the same way.
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I have 1 month left on my AAMCO rebuilt transmission. I took it in a few weeks ago when it went into "limp mode" (Stuck in 1st gear). Eventually, they got an error code of P0730, which I believe is electrical-related. All was pretty good but then today, driving @ high speed on the interstate, I could not get into 4th gear...
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Today the roads were slushy. On my drive to work a strange parking brake fault happened twice. Each time I was driving at highway speeds, not engaging the parking brake. In each case, the parking brake fault light came on, and the car seemed to go into some kind of "limp home" mode: the car would not accelerate or upshift, although it appeared to be willing to maintain around 40mph or very mildly accelerate from 0-20 mph if I stopped all the way. This was not because the parking brake engaged itself and was slowing the car - the car still coasted freely. It was clearly because the computer was limiting the car's power/speed severely. In the first case, I think it came on when I was beginning to apply the regular brakes to slow down gradually for a light; and in the second I was not using the brakes at all but did hit a puddle of slush. In both cases, it's possible the traction control kicked in, although I did not see that indicator light flash. The ABS did not get used based on sound and pedal feel in the first place, and because I wasn't engaging the brakes at all in the second case.
In each case, I was able to pull off the road, shut off the engine/car entirely, and then restart the car to clear the fault and turn off the light. The car drove totally normally from there, as if nothing had ever been wrong. There was around two hours including 90 minutes of being parked in my garage between the two events. I've never had any parking brake malfunction of any kind before with this car. So now I'm wondering when this will happen again. This does not appear to be the common problem of the parking brake button, since it never involved actually applying or releasing the parking brake and never involved me touching the button. I don't like having to quickly go from the left lane of a freeway all the way to the right lane or shoulder when my car suddenly decides to slow down for no obvious reason.
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So the other day as I was trying to accelerate my car had absolutely no power at all. it almost seemed like it went into a limp mode or something of the sort. No matter what gear or how much gas i gave it, it barely chugged along at more than an idle. I pulled over turned it off, then waited a few seconds and turned it back on, same deal. Once more, I turned it off and back on and finally, it seemed to be ok. It flashed a warning light but it cleared after I turned off the car.
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I am the owner of a 2013 Pathfinder and a 2013 Altima. If I have both sets of FOB keys on me when I press the start button on my Altima the car goes into battery mode. Will not completely turn on or won't turn off. The only way to shut the car down is disconnect the battery, wait 20 minutes, and hope the car is completely shut down. Then try again and hope the car turns on.
I was told having both FOB keys on me causes interference and only carry the key I need. Besides that being absurd and can't do that because I drive my Altima in the morning and the Pathfinder at night to pick the kids up because the car seats are in there. So what I have been doing to avoid this problem is taking the Pathfinder FOB and putting in homemade aluminum foil bag so the car can't read that key. Nissan seems to think this isn't a problem.
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I got into my car about 5 minutes ago and while driving i noticed a ample amount of power loss. I would go half throttle and my rmp's would go up by my speed seemed lacking even full on it it seemed to be lagging and was a slow climb to 60. Could it be my turbo not putting out or something more serious. Its a 99 1.8t ....
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I was driving to work and got about 15 kms from home and all of a sudden, the engine lost power and I coasted to a stop, with the engine running rough on 3 or 4 cylinders. No engine light on and I have a Scangauge II and all the gauge readings looked ok. the fuel pressure was 42, but the glycerine in the gauge froze solid in the winter and I didn't think it was right. I stopped the engine and looked for obvious problems like a failed o-ring on the fuel filter, any leaks and found none. tried the engine again and it ran perfect again, drove the remaining 40 kms to work with no problem. It happened again on the way home, no engine light, again, stopped on the side of the road, it would not restart, check the SG for codes and there was none. Then it started again and I drove home fine again.
I picked up a new gauge for the dash I had added, and checked the pressure, it was 48 and steady with the engine running, but I then changed the fuel filters and installed the blue spring kit to the filter housing I was waiting for warmer weather to install. Drove it to work again the next week, it ran perfect, fuel pressure steady at 60. Then I used it yesterday and it lost power again. I could not get it to run properly for quite a few attempted starts, the it was fine again and I drove it home.
I idled it and checked for codes again, none. ICP was 740, FMP was 54, SYC 1, Fuel Pressure 60. While it was idling, it did it again, idle slowed down and all the previous reading stayed the same, fuel delivery did go up though.
Previous work done. (Current Kms = 390000) 180000 kms, new injectors, turbo, EGR cooler, (EGR blocked off as well), ICP sensor and regulator, in dash Fuel Pressure and ICP gauges installed. FICM sent to Swampy's after alternator died and took out FICM and upgraded to 54v.
The SG when I try to clear the codes it says "Not Responding" with the key on or off, so I don't think it will read or clear them. Where to start? I am thinking wiring somewhere...
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Just filled up with Shell V-Power 91 Octane Fuel for the first time in my MKVI Golf 2.5
I know 91 isn't needed in this car but I like filling up with good fuel every once in a while.
After filling up my check engine light came on right away, also my engine wont allow me to go over 3k RPM.
Why did this happen and what can I do to fix it?
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I was towing a fairly heavy trailer yesterday (around 10k) and laying into the throttle to gain some speed before a big hill when I completely lost power. It slowed me down to about 10 MPH.
I was able to drive home at very slow speeds and the only way to get over 10 MPH (only up to about 20MPH was to very lightly accelerate up to speed. Any hard acceleration and it cut me off to 10 MPH. No warning lights of any kind going off...
Truck has a Hypertech Max Energy programmer on stage 2.
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