Passat - Volkswagen :: 1998 - Engine Won't Start / Vehicle Has Refused To Spark
Feb 2, 2013
I drove my 1998 VW passat to work last week, a day after changing spark plugs, fuel and oil filter, and engine oil. After work, the car refused to spark. Had to leave it overnight. Till today, the vehicle has refused to spark even though my electricians keep telling everything seems to be ok. The latest I was told was that the engine has lost pressure. What does that mean and what is the possible remedy?
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Like the title says my 98 stang will not start when the engine is hot. It starts perfectly when the engine is cold. When the engine is at normal operating temp the starter cranks like normal but the engine will not catch. If i give it a little gas while cranking it the engine will start until i take my foot off the gas then it shuts down. after i leave the car for about and hour it will start. I have new plugs, wires, alternator, fuel filter, air filter and my last oil change was three weeks ago. the battery holds a good 12.6v, I had the timing fixed in june. I jumped the fuel pump relay and there is good pressure up to the fuel filter.
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I have a 1998 Passat turbo wagon. A couple of months ago, the engine began intermittently shuddering/stuttering. The car/steering wheel vibrate when accelerated. Acceleration is very slow. It may start when started, or just driving down the road. This can last a few minutes/block or several minutes/blocks. It disappears just as quickly as it begins. My garage ran engine analysis and nothing shows. Can't do anything till they can duplicate, and I can't cause it to happen. During the occurrence, tach is at 9000 and steady. I use high octane gas. Today, while stuttering the engine just quit twice while stopped. Car has 115,000 miles and otherwise is in excellent shape mechanically (regular oil changes, etc.). What's happening?
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Working on my buddys 2003 camry, wont start, has air and spark and not getting fuel. replaced fuel pump already. If you hit it with a quite a bit of starting fluid it will fire up for a few moments and then die out, its got half tank of gas. The whole start of this is he ran out of gas and since then wont start.
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The rear spark plug boot, the kind that goes down into the center of the engine, pops up about a quarter inch every so often. I have switched the boots and cleaned the walls of the plug area and it pops up on the rear cylinder only. This is a 2002 Passat 4 cylinder Turbo with 163,000 miles on it.
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A couple months ago my VW Passat started locking itself and sounding the horn spontaneously, and now it is rolling down the windows randomly as well. My key isn't in the ignition when this happens. I got locked out once which was annoying, but now the windows rolling down make it a security issue and I really don't want the windows down in a parking lot during the next snowstorm. The heater quit working last week, too.
The car is only 2 years old and the dealership said they can fix the heater but they aren't sure what would be wrong with the spontaneous horn/window/locking problems.
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This 2005 LeSabre with a 3.8 v-6 ran fine but had a marginal battery. Then the key got left on overnight leaving the battery totally dead. After jumping the battery and letting it charge, the engine cranked fine but refused to start. Haven't had a chance to check for fuel or spark. Why would a dead battery trigger this no start condition?
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We have a '92 Pontiac Trans Sport with a 3.1L V6 TBI engine. Last Sunday evening it refused to start like someone left the transmission in Drive and the Park/Neutral switch was preventing it to start. There's the buzz sound from the fuel pump when you put the key on then nothing when you turn it to start the engine.
I checked the Park/Neutral swith by connecting an ALDL cable to the OBD port and it indicates correctly when I move the lever to Drive or Parking/Neutral. The only error code stored is "Fuel Pump Relay" but the Fuel Pump appear to be working?!
Battery is good, fuel pump fuse intact and the Park/Neutral switch appear to be working. How we can tackle this problem?
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Car dumbie back again with another question.The diagnostic for my check engine light indicates numerous cold start misfire codes. The cylinders are OK. That was checked during the diagnostic.The fuel intake is carboned up. It is recommended that I clean the intake manifold. Does this mean cleaning the fuel injectors, the throttle body or both? 2006 Passat VW....
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I just bought a used 1998 VW Passat and everything seemed to be working fine until today. I drove the car up the road to get some food, went inside and not even 30 minutes later came back out to get in my car to go to work and the car wouldn't start. I turn the key and push in the clutch like normal and nothing happens except for the lights inside on the dash come on, but the engine doesn't begin to turn over or anything. The emergency flashers in the dash begin to flash automatically, don't know if that has anything to do with it.
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I have a 1998 Plymouth Neon that will start after it has cooled completely, and be fine through out the day, but when I get home from school and I start it again, it makes a strange screeching noise, and after turning off the engine and trying to restart the car, the vehicle will not start again, but all of the lights work, the battery is fine, the alternator is okay, the starter is a brand new OEM part, new ignition coil, new spark plugs, new safety neutral switch, new speed sensor, new battery cables, new camshaft position sensor, the only extra thing it does have is fog lights that were not put in by the dealership, this was done when my uncle still owned this car back in 1999. The only other problem that it has is an Error code of P1899 (Safety/Neutral Switch Stuck) and at times when turning the steering wheel, it will make a screeching noise halfway turned until you let go a bit, and then it is able to completely be turned either way, and one last thing is that the speedometer was a bit erratic one time, while I was driving home on the freeway.
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My Neon needed a water pump. At 204K miles the timing belt should be replaced also. The pump and belt were replaced. The motor started and the car drove about 1000ft. and stopped. There was no more spark. The car was checked to make sure that the timing belt is on correctly. The cam points to top dead center when the #1 cylinder is at peak and the crankshaft is at top dead center. Both marks align. When the key is turned the starter tries to turn but the engine does not spark. Electricity goes to the coil pack. 1998 Dodge Neon 2.0L SOHC 4 cylinder....
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Emissions Workshop flashing in the info screen on the dash of my 2005 PASSAT TDI. The car went into neutral and refused to go into gear. Got it towed to the dealer and was informed that it required a software update. It was in the dealers 6 weeks earlier for its 75k. service. I feel ripped off....
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We have a 2007 Prius with 70,000 miles on it. Twice now, the car has refused to start. Yesterday we tried to jump start it, got nothing. We went shopping with the other vehicle, came home, and then it started when my husband unlocked the car with the remote. It happened again today. I always use the smart key, it wouldn't start. Dead! My husband took me to work, then came home, unlocked it with the remote and it started again. What's up with that??? We just had it serviced a few weeks ago.
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Friday of last week my wife's Corolla refused to start. It cranked strongly but refused to catch. Fearing the worst my mechanic father-in-law assumed the timing belt had gone and we spent the weekend replacing that. The tensioner bearing had seized leaving the timing belt glazed but intact and, as far as we could tell, the timing was still correct. We replaced the belt and closed her back. Tired turning it over, nothing. Father-in-law noticed he didn't hear the fuel pump turn on when the key was placed in the ON position so he replaced that and the fuel filter. Turns out that the fuel pump only comes on when it's cranking? Who knew? We didn't. So that's been replaced.
At this point we have it towed to the shop where my father-in-law works(After this point all my information is second hand). We were going to let Big Al, their resident diagnostician, hook up his magic boxes and tell us what's wrong. Big Al suggests it's the distributor so that's changed but it still doesn't run. Big Al suggests that we set the timing incorrectly. That is torn apart again and, remember this is second hand information, "it was right but it was wrong". Whatever, they get it back together and it cranks and runs! Hooray!...but not so fast.
Next morning father-in-law arrives at work and gets bubkis. Cranks, sounds like it wants to start but won't. Somehow Big Al determines it's the PCM and that the car is getting "too much of a fuel pulse from the injectors" I ask if they are able to pull any codes from the computer and I'm told that they can't get any codes from ODBII scanner because it can't communicate with the car's computer. Also it's found that the catalytic converter is completely shot.
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I have an LS600hl (2008) that has behaved spectacularly well, except until recently when it started to deplete the key fob battery fast! I resorted to replacing the batteries once a week (yes it was that bad). that was up until today when the car refused to start completely. Everything in it is dead, including the horns.
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I have a 96 Buick regal v6 3.8L. It ran good. Started from last winter, it started to act up. In the morning, 98% OF the first attempt to start the car failed: it started but died in a few seconds, but the 2nd attempt always got it start. One month ago, I drove it for 1.5 hours, and parked there for 15 minutes, could not get it started, opened up the hood, waited for 15 minutes, it started. Then I drove it to a auto shop, they replaced the starter. One five days later, I could not started it again after 1.3 hour driving and parked for 20 minutes. Wait for 15 minutes, it started again. The odd is that when it refused to start, the radiator gap is very hard (but not over heated yet), after started it and drove for 30 minutes or so, I feel the gap is cooler than when it would not start.
I drove it back to the shop, they could not any problem. Drove it back. three day later, it stalled when driving. I didn't realize the stall until I need to turn: lost steering and brake power, then notice that the whole dash board doesn't have any light on. Since the car shut it off only after half mile driving, it doesn't looks like heat related (It was on the mountain, it was about 70 F). Then I sent the car to a different shop.
At the shop, they took off the ignition model and tested it good, and put it back. Since then, they started the car several times per day. Finally, on one day, the car shut itself off after running for 2 hours, and they could not start it. However, they checked and didn't find any code was set (they said because service engine light was not on). The shop have been trying to start the car several times per day for 10 days they didn't have another failure. I am not sure what to do with the car. I read posts here, and have the shop checked short circuit, ground fault, fuel wiring harness, catalytic converter, they didn't find anything, and they said that fuel pump seems ok.
I plan to replace crank sensor, fuel filter, and fuel regulator sensor and use the car for work commute (2 miles). what should be done on the car (since it is old car with 120K on it, I don't want to spend more than $500 dollar on it unless I am sure the problem can be fixed).
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My 2003 Taurus sometimes refuses to start. There's no real pattern: sometimes it's after the car has run for a while and other times not. Sometimes the starter clicks, other times the engine lights come on with no sound at all from starter/engine. Thing is, the car always ends up starting if I let it sit long enough (15 minutes--several hours). I've read around on the internet and realize this seems to be a problem experienced by many owners. I've changed the battery, checked all the connections, cleaned the starter connections and the Mass Air Flow Sensor. If the starter was bad, it seems like it wouldn't start at all, right?
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I have a 2005 Hyndai Accent. When it started getting really cold the car began to have issues starting. I turn the key and it tries to start. The battery is fine. I thought it might be something in the fuel line so I had the car towed to the local garage and they said they put the car in the garage and it fired right up. After that the car was fine for a couple weeks. Superbown Sunday after the game I went to get it in and it would not start. On a hunch I went got a bottle of heat put it in and it started right up. It was fine until I refilled the tank then it refused to start so I put more heat in it and it started. I did this once more and it worked. One night after work it wouldn't start so I put heat in it and it would not start. I messed with it for about 2 hours finally I was able to push it down a hill pop the clutch and it started. I took it back to the shop it was in there for 3 days and they were unable to reproduce the problem. Since then every time it is cold it refuses to start I have to push start it every time. Luckily this is still working. I am fed up I dont know what to do with it. Every time I take it to the shop and they cant reproduce the problem it costs me money and I am sick of it.
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My son has a 1999 VW Passat Wagon with a 1.8 turbo 230,000 miles. He came home from work, parked his car and the next morning for school it did not start. He inserted the key and turned it and the engine would not crank. All dash lights worked and such. He did notice the power window were not working and the interior lights either. He jump the car and worked fine, until he shut it off, and again needed a jump to start.
I looked at it, battery and alternator tested fine, battery is only a year old. the car now randomly will start on it own or not, even with a jump. I had no codes pop up on the computer scan. I am hearing things like climate control module and another fuel module in trunk and water issues. I was told to check connect at starter and change iginition switch. Have not done the ignition switch yet will need to get car up on block for starter as my son has lowered the car quite a bit. I had the computer codes checked by a VW tech and he seems stumped too.
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2002 vw Passat GLX 4motion... Car has been driving fine with no issues. Then out of the blue it just won't start back up. Battery is 6 months old. And wouldn't start with a jump. I think it is a completely different issue. The power windows stopped working but other features do work like stereo power seats interior lights...Main problem is no lights on dash whatsoever. But when key turns from accessories position to starting position nothing happens. No clicking, no resistance between positions it is as if the ignition is just missing..?
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