Passat - Volkswagen :: 2001 - Engine Warning Light On / Very Rough Idle
Oct 3, 2012
The 2001 Passat 1.8lT has an engine warning light on and feels like it is running on less than all four cylinders.( very rough idle) This is the first time we have seen this particular warning light and the manual suggests that it has a problem with the catalytic convertor.( 170K miles on the car) The car had no symptoms until the light came on today and the car was serviced last week. ( oil change and new tires) It seems that every time I take the car in for service something goes haywire shortly afterward.
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a 2011 jetta. brake pedal is hard no pumping action. The car show check engine. The idle is not smooth.
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My 2002 passat engine shakes when in idle or stop at light. When running on highway, it is smooth. what could it be?
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Recently I bought an 01 Passat with a V6. Intermittently, when I go to start it, it cranks and cranks and doesn't catch. When this happens, the EPC and check engine light come on.
Other than that it is a fine car, I'm the second owner, and it was thoroughly maintained at VW dealerships and specialist. Recently there was a new oil pan and starter put in (w/in a month--previous owners).
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When exiting off the freeway and stopping at the light, my car felt as though it was bucking and idling very rough. I put the car in Neutral and it subsided a bit but the lit gauges were pulsing with the idle. It felt as though the car was going to die. I put the car back into Drive and it drove fine. I pulled over and shut the car off. There were no warnings or any other indicator lights on during this time. After shutting the car off and leaving it for a couple mins, I started it back up and the engine light was now on steadily. The rough/bucking idle was present as well. I ended up driving the car to the dealer where it is now being diagnosed and I haven't heard back.
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I have a great vw 2008 rabbit with 115,00 miles on her. I just completed a round trip. On my way back during terrible stop and go Washington DC traffic..I noticed the car started to rev a bit. After that the idle has been rough with some light shaking. No engine light, but it does sound almost like it is choking a bit. Not extreme..but definitely not the smooth engine sound I had. I am guilty of NEVER HAVING MAINTENANCE on her..so I had new spark plugs put in and a new air filter. The problem is less..but the idle is still on the rough side.
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I just purchased my first foreign car ever. it is a 2002 Elantra it idles very rough changed plugs using NGK and wires new fuel filter and ran 2 full tanks of high grade fuel with STP fuel injector cleaner. but had no effect on idle also have no check or service engine light. What to check next?
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Driving home from work this evening and engine light lights up, also car started to idle very rough.... long story short got the car home and checked with vag com... 2 engine codes
000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 001 - - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 86567 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2012.12.31
Time: 14:26:57
[Code] .....
After looking around online found out it could be a variety of reasons... gonna change spark plugs tomorrow hoping that's the problem... next cheapest fix would be the ignition coils... I'm just hoping its not internal, like piston or rings.
It's a 2007 Passat Wolfsburg 2.0T.... just went over the 53k mark.
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Brake warning light came on. Diagnosed as bad abs module. Mechanic replaced twice. One shell sensor continues to read not turning while it is turning. Mechanic has check continuity, it's fine. Seems to have a short. He cannot find where it is and next step is ripping out much interior to track tiny wire. Will not pass state inspection with brake warning light on.
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Wifes car began to idle very rough and check engine light began to blink and beep, I took it to the mechanic today and he informed me that my control module was no good and it was a $400 dollar piece. I said go ahead get it done, cuz she needs the car and i couldn't afford to not have it done immediately. Question I have is does this small-ass piece really go for that much on average and what control module is it?
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My R is acting up a bit today. I went to start it this morning and the battery was dead. I'm not sure if I left the stereo on (it doesn't turn off when the key is removed and door opened. I have to disconnect the faceplate every time.) or what but it had just enough juice to unlock the doors and light up the some light LEDs. After I got home from work I went to jump it and it wouldn't even unlock. I had to use the key to manually unlock the door.
I was able to jump it just fine and took it for a drive. It idled high sometimes and would drop down to roughly 400-600 RPM. Driving the car, it was clearly lacking power and not running properly and the traction control light came on. I parked it in the driveway and took a video of the idle, shut the car off and started it up again. This time, the idle seems normal but it doesn't feel as responsive or powerful as it was before today. The traction control light is still on as well. If I rev the engine up, it'll drop down to around 1,100-1,200 rpm, sit for a few seconds then finally drop to 800.
I just got it about three weeks ago and haven't done anything to the car. Hopefully this is something minor because I don't really feel like dropping a ton more money on a car I just bought.
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Another month and another problem to be resolved. Here goes: The 2001 Passat 1.8T has had a hard life in the past year. The specifics are listed in previous posts. Most recently, the radiator was replaced because the engine was overheating again. The car has been leaking fluid ever since but it is not radiator fluid. Yesterday, I took a look at the oil and found tan gunk mixed in with the oil. I must admit that I had concerns after the fact about the shop that did the last oil change. Is it possible for mechanic to screw up the head gasket while replacing the radiator? It was fine before the repair. Is there another source to look for the seepage into the oil? Basically, the question is - Is the car destined for the graveyard because of this?
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Idles ok in park and neutral. Gets worse while in gear. Car has high miles around 160.000. Fuel injection flush? Fuel Filter? Vacuum leak, and where to look first? No check engine light, no misfire codes just a rough idle when in gear.
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I have 2001 Wolfsberg Edition 4D jetta (gas) with 180,000 miles, manual transmission. The engine light has been on for years and years. Usually what I do is take it in for an oil change just before a smog. They re-set the codes. I drive it to my office and back and the light would stay off and I could smog it. Until recently. In April, I took the car in for an oil change. And when I picked it up, it ran terribly. It was lurching like crazy. I had to keep slip the clutch to drive it until it warmed up and the it would mostly start running OK. I took it back to my mechanic and he thought it was a timing belt. I had already changed the timing belt at 119,000 miles.
It seemed odd to me that this procedure needed to be done again after 60,000 miles, but I went ahead and had it done. That did not fix the problem. Then the mechanic replaced the air mass meter. That didn't work. Then he replaced the coils. That didn't work. My mechanic has had the car for a month and can't seem to figure out what to do. He keeps getting different error codes - codes that don't seem to make sense to him. The car needs to a smog (my registration date is June), but he can't smog it because we can't get the check engine light to stay off long enough.
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I have a 2001 VW Passat Wagon 1.8t AUG. A couple of months ago, I took it into my shop for a check engine light. The did the following work on the vehicle:
Replaced MAF sensor
Replaced broken oil level sensor
Replaced outer CV boots
Resealed my transmission pan (it was leaking)
Replaced bad vacuum hoses
When I got the car back, it was idling really rough, and one time it even stalled. Just after starting it, when I hit the gas it wouldn't respond immediately and sputtered for a little while. Once I got going it was usually OK, unless I was going uphill...where it wouldn't perform as well and the engine noise kinda wavered. I also noticed that my gas mileage wasn't nearly as good as it used to be. (I never experienced any problems like this before they did this work) So I took it back to the shop and they replaced both the front and rear 02 sensors. I still had the same problem, so I took it back, and they replaced the fuel filter. Still has the same problem.
The light came on after a month, so I took it back and it was the random cylinder misfire code...and they said that didn't really know what to do about it. So I decided to take matters into my own hands. I cleaned the MAF sensor they installed (took it out and sprayed it with cleaner) nothing. I replaced the spark plugs and while doing so found that one of my ignition coils was bad, and I replaced that as well. Turns out the AutoLite plugs that a local parts store sold me are crap for this engine (actually caused misfires) so I went and got Denso double platinum plugs the next day and put those in. And finally I changed my air filter. Still having problems.
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I drive a 2001 VW Jetta and have had many issues with this car but have had this particular issue many times. It starts when all of a sudden my car feels like it's going to stall when idling. When I go to drive it in this state the car has difficulty excelerating, bucking and sputtering (like the engine isn't getting enough fuel) and the engine light comes on. I have taken it to many shops and they usually replace an oxygen sensor saying that it is clogged etc. I have also had a couple of tune-ups because of it but after about a year the issue comes back and I shell out more money. I was told by one mechanic to use only super gasoline and that it should prevent it from happening again which I did and it held it off from happening again to about a year and a half but now it's back.
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At idle, (600 RPMs, might need to bring it up?) the motor is Real rough, but doesn't stall out, just very "wobbly" Once the car is brought up to the 900-1000 RPM range everything flattens out, and at driving speeds it drives great! Pulled up to 90 mph on the high way, and passed a few cars on some back roads and everything ran great, until I hit idle.
It threw a code for the Cam Position Sensor after I tried to restart the car, and the person who work on this car before me had zip tied the connector into the sensor because he had broken it. Low and behold, you cant buy just the replacement part of the harness.
I tried to get the wires all plugged back in, and the CEL went away, but the idle was still pretty rough. Also, at idle, the oil light flickers just a bit.
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The engine light and Stop Engine low oil pressure light came on in my 2007 Passat. I had it towed to the dealer where it went through inspection for CPO certification. I purchased and had maint. and repairs completed at the dealership. I am at 84,000m. It is less than two years from date of purchase--however I am 12,000m outside of the limited warranty.
Dealership has said that there is factory based engine failure. To my knowledge, a diagnostic (1 Camshaft Position (Bank 1) Timing over advanced or system performance intermittent) and seeing metal near filter led to the conclusion that I can pay to take apart the engine--but most likely will need to replace the engine.
Outside mechanic has pointed out that the 2.0 engine tends to have some metal in the oil. How much or how big could signal internal damage. Small amounts can be "normal".
Looking for steps that could be taken before taking apart the engine? As it is less than 2 yrs. Passat 2007 (2.0 engine) ....
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So far I have only experienced this once (today). I was on the freeway which ends and becomes a State Route. When I stopped for a traffic light the idle became rough. I put the car in neutral and gave it a little gas and it seemed fine. It has not done that again at this time. No CEL or anything came on. What do you think?
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My engine is in trouble. A few weeks ago, my check engine light came on. The diagnostics revealed that my Mass Airflow Sensor was done for. I replaced it, and everything was working fine for a week. Then a couple of days ago, my Electronic Power Control (EPC) light came on. The car is really dragging. It have to gun it to make it go above 60 MPH. It's become scary to drive on highways. Are the two issues potentially connected?
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I have a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe. Within the last 2 months or so I have changed my timing belt, spark plugs, and all belts that needed to be changed. I notice that when I am idle at a traffic light, the car is a little rough or bumpy. Is this normal for its age, or should I be looking at something specific.
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