Pontiac - Grandprix :: 2001 - Ignition Switch Cannot Be Turned Back To Off Position All The Way
Jun 29, 2011
My wife's 2001 Gran Prix has a problem with the ignition switch, or related to the ignition switch. Intermittently (more frequently in warm weather or when the car's warm) the ignition switch can't be turned back to the 'off' position all the way, meaning the key can't be removed from the switch. We've heard from several mechanics that there are a couple problems that can cause this, and in fact had the ignition switch replaced which did not solve the problem. I understand there is a connection to the transmission or gear shift lever that may also be part of this problem in some way. There can only be so many solenoids, switches, connections, etc, related to this, I'd like to fix the problem and avoid spending money unnecessarily.
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I have 2 spark plugs not firing. one of the three ignition coils does not fire, the other two do, is the most likely culprit be the ignition control module? car has the 3.8 motor.
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My 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix 3.8 L V6 with120,000 miles shakes/vibrates when I accelerate while turning/veering right (as when coming out of an exit to merge into oncoming traffic). It does not vibrate when I turn left. I have new balanced tires, replaced both front tie-rod ends, and the rack and pinion by a certified GMC mechanic. What could be the problem?
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We have a grand prix and had the water pump replaced. Soon after this the fuel pump went out. We replaced it 2 more times within a few weeks. Bought another one and this time the car may have run a period of 4 to 5 months before it went out. We have found by banging on the gas tank, and by turning the car on while someone bangs on it, you can hear the pump come on and start the car. Well, once again this week we have had the pump changed and I was about to leave work and the car would not start. Banging on the tank allowed me to be able to start the car... What is going on with the pumps or what is making them go out...???
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I have the 3.1 V6 in my 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix and today it started spewing oil out of what looks like an electrical plug in the front, toward the bottom just under the valve cover, dead center. What is this plug?
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None of my 4 keys will operate my ignition switch.
It's stuck in off position. Steering wheel is not locked and I have pulled pretty hard on it to see if I could get the ignition switch to turn.
I have a new switch on the way but I have to get the old one out and don't know how to get old one out if I cannot turn the switch to on position.
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I have a 2003 Pontiac Grand Am it will start once but after that if you turn off ignition it will not start again until it has sat for a long time.
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I have owned 2 SC and I notice both of the SC I have owned get a odd " hissing " sound, when the ignition is turned to the " On" position with the key located in the engine area, It will come on and then go off ...
Sometimes this " hissing " sound will come back on when driving and then off again ...
Hissing sound when the key is turned only to the "on" position?
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I just bought a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 (Magnum Series); 5.9l, 2WD, 8cyl. After 2 months the transmission went out. I bought a used transmission and had a shop install it. When I picked it up (10-3-14) the mechanic pointed out the shifter is one notch off (ie. in R position its in Park, in N position its in Reverse, etc). In addition it no longer has D1 nor D2 (putting the shift in D-D2 position results in Drive only, no power gears). The mechanic said it was something in the steering column causing the shift display to be off and had no explanation to why there were no power gears.
To make matters worse, the ignition switch no longer reverts to the Off position; the key can be removed but the switch stays On, warning alarm for key being in ignition comes On etc. I admit the ignition switch was old and the switch would sometimes not turn over before the transmission was replaced. He blamed something in the column again. So,
Q1-Is the mechanic correct there is something wrong in the column and not a misalignment he caused when he installed the replacement transmission causing the shifter to be misaligned?
Q2-Why doesn't the truck have D1-D2 gears? Do some transmissions not have these or am I missing something?
Q3-Is the most likely problem to the ignition the ignition switch or solenoid? Or could he have damaged something during the transmission installation? (I ask the latter because he took a panel off under the steering column while installing the replacement transmission.)
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There are two 12V power outlets inside my 2005 Saturn VUE. They always have power available, whether the car is on or not. I'd like to change that. Is there an easy (or somewhat easy) way to make it so that the outlets only deliver power when the ignition switch is in the on position?
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My 1999 GMC Sonoma has a occaisonal problem--the tail lights stay lit after the light switch and the ignition are turned off. The brake pedal does not appear to be sticking. The cure has been to remove both light bulbs, wait a few minutes, plug them back in, and all is well. This might happen an average of once a month, seems more common in hot weather.
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Early senility or perhaps just a busy mind has led me to turn off the ignition key before shifting from drive back to park. This is obviously not natural for the car but it did not seem to do any harm. I am wondering however if it can be damaged by this?
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Got a late 2004 6.0 that runs excellent. When it is cold (as in not running for half a day, not ambient temp) it dies as if the ignition gets turned off. You can start it right back up no problem. It has been slowly getting worse. You maybe have to start it back up 5-10 times before you can get going in the morning. Also you can hear a random click with ignition just in on position as if there is a connection issue in the dash and cuts ign in and out that I think may be the problem.
I swapped all the relays to different spots to try them. I don't think it's wiring because it does it when cold then works when warm. Guy thinks plugging truck block heater so maybe it work better somewhat. New CMP, CKP, FICM, and it doesn't make a diff. So it's baffling to me. It's obviously electrical and works better when truck is warmed.
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have an issue with my 03 trailblazer. i have the problem of no start when key turned to start position. actually nothing happens when the key is turned to start position. dash comes on when key is turned to on pos tho. took battery off and had it tested and it is at full charge. took starter off and had it tested and it passed. checked ignition relay cavities per this youtube video "Chevy Trailblazer no crank testing and information" and there is no light when touching the ground request cavity and turning the key to start position.
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I have a 2001 Santa Fe, and the key is stuck in the ignition. I can't even get it to turn to the Lock position, so it's stuck in accessories. Since I haven't had the funds to do so, I haven't gotten it checked out yet, and it's started to drain my battery. I have to jump it every single morning, so I'm wondering if there's anything I can do until I can gather up the money to fix it.
I have tried moving the steering wheel and shifting it all over the place and spraying DW-40 in there and a whole bunch of other things I've seen work for people on a bunch of different forums, but nothing works. I don't know if this matters, but before it got stuck, it would sometimes be hard to pull out or push the key into the ignition.
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My main relay is chattering badly when my ignition is in the on position but not in the ACC position. All of my "dummy" lights are flashing with the chattering main relay. I have tried to replace both the Start and Main relay and I replaced the battery 3 weeks ago. I have checked the wiring and I do not see anywhere the wires could have been chewed by a mouse and everything appears to be connected. Checked all of the relays and fuses to make sure they were in tightly. Could this be the ignition?
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I have a 2003 2.4L 5 speed manual Santa Fe. I was parking my vehicle and removed my key as usual and realized that the car was still running. I put it into reverse rolled back and back into 1st to roll forward just to make sure I wasn't dreaming. I ended up pulling the fuel pump fuse and disconnecting the battery to turn it off.
When I replaced the fuse and reconnected the battery I was able to bump start the vehicle without the key in the car and drive it all the way home with no problem. I took apart all the plastic pieces around the Ignition and attempted to remove the cylinder but was unable to locate any sort of small button or pin to push on to remove it. Where is the release button?
What are my options here? Do I replace the cylinder first or get a new key, or is there something else that I should check first before I take it in.
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It's a 2001 Chevy cavalier. The key is stuck and won't turn the car off. Already have tried shaking the wheel and wd-40. The wipers won't work and the gauges won't turn on until I jiggle the key.
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Engine starts then runs for a period of time until it warms up, then fans come on and then EGR clicks on and off every other second , then it eventually quits. Replaced the coolant temp sensor. And it never sets a code. Have checked wiring for shorts and nothing. Is it a ECM going bad?? When trying to drive it , it will only go about a half a block , then quits , Then will start up again.???
1990 Pontiac Grand Prix with 121000 miles. Scan shows all items within limits or normal.
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01 Elantra, once warmed up to running temp starts to run like a pig & wont idle, has new plugs/leads.
Funny thing is there is no engine check light, in fact it doesn't even come on for the 6 seconds when the ignition is first turned on at all.
Secondly I have OBD2/ELM327 with scanpro but it doesn't connect to the ECU.
We put it into a shop & they claim they were able to connect to ecu but gave no codes which I find a bit strange.
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I just got new struts, brakes, rotors etc on my 95 grand prix. A few weeks later my ABS light went on.... Do I have to get it fixed right away?
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