I have 2014 Ram Outdoorsman hemi. When braking hard engine stalls. Starts right back up. Took to dealer under warranty, only 35k, he diagnosed it for 10 weeks. Said it happened several times for him. Computer does not trip code for problem. He said their is a problem but he does not know what it is and can not fix it, without an error code.
View 12 RepliesNo codes showing up but my dodge is stalling out on me when i come to a stop sign or red light. When I first start it up and go somewhere it is fine but once the truck warms up it starts doing this. Have put it on a computer and nothing shows up. It has a v8, the smaller one.
View 3 Replies2001 Chevy Silverado, 2wd, 5.3 engine, 232,000 miles, front hubs with integral sensors replaced about 20,000 miles ago. Now when I brake, and just before coming to a complete stop, the ABS kicks in. Doesn't happen if I brake hard. If I let up on the brake momentarily, it stops and the rest of the stop is smooth.
Sometimes the brake and ABS lights come on, but when I had the OBD hooked up, there were no stored codes, and the brake and ABS lights go off once you turn the ignition off and then restart the engine. I suspect the problem is with the sensors for the rear wheels, but don't know where they are located.
There are no wires going to the rear wheels or the axle. Tried pulling the fuse for the ABS system, but that makes the brake and ABS lights stay on constantly.
99 suburban. X 1+ year progressively harder to start. Will turn over, but seems like it is not getting gas. Engine replaced 10k ago after I blew the last one at 220k. Did this before and after replacement. Once started runs fine. Can hear fuel pump kick on when key turned to on position? fuel relay?
View 8 RepliesMy 1990 mustang 5.0 LX has a very consistent stalling problem when travelling long distance on the highway at a good speed. After 2 hours of driving highway speeds and then pulling off the highway, the car stalls after I brake or stop at a light. I don't know why this seems braking related, but not sure. I then sit and crank the motor and it cranks for a bit and starts right up. I think it's fuel, but now sure yet.
Here's what I have done:1. Tune-up: plugs, wires, cap, rotor2. new fuel pressure regulator3. new fuel filter4. new fuel cap5. Checked for vacuum leaks (none found)
It seems to not happen when the gas tank is low, but I can't swear to it.
I'm going to run a fuel pressure gauge to the futhel rail and see if I can catch the drop off of fuel pressure when it occurs. Also, I noticed that the gas cap does not hiss when I unscrew it at any point in time.
I have a 2010 Chevy 1500 extended cab. For a few years it was a daily driver. It has 54000 miles. For the last 1.5 years I have been driving a company vehicle so my truck sits a lot and usually only gets driven once a week when I'm off running errands and such. Recently if I drive it just around town a few miles here and there, everything is fine. But if I drive it to a farther location say 20-30 minutes away the truck will start to shift extremely hard into second gear from first to second. The first time it happened I though I got rear ended by another car only to look around and no one was behind me. I wouldnt think the trans. would be going out at 54000 miles.
View 5 RepliesI have a 1996 Chevy Cheyenne pickup with a fuel injected small block that has 50k miles. Earlier this summer the truck developed a problem where it is very hard to start when cold (after sitting overnight or after sitting for many hours on my flat driveway). When the engine is cold (say the first start of the day) I can only get it to start by giving small bursts of cranking power to the starter. That is, it won’t start if I hold the key in the cranking position but is more likely to start if I give it a short burst of cranking power (when I hold the key in “start” position) for a second or two.After the first start of the day, the engine runs fine and subsequent starts are quick and normal. The “Check Engine” light is not on and there are no trouble codes…. Other than hard starting there are no issues with engine performance.
View 2 RepliesMy battery was drained two nights ago, I jumped started it fine. However, the last two days, the truck has been hard to start, and battery seems low, even though the vehicle has been driven plenty. Today a new problem as arose, with the AC climate control. Driver side vents blow out very Hot Air, and Passenger Side blows out very cold Air. The setting on the digital climate control system says 60 F on both sides. Its possible the AC was on when the truck was jump started.
View 2 RepliesWhen I hit the brakes hard like seating the brakes the Aero would stall....
View 12 RepliesI got a phaeton v8, I feel a big shudder in the whole car while I have an amount of pressure on the brakes. for example: when approaching a red traffic light soft braking: no shudder, half braking: shudder and when hard braking the shudder is gone again. what could be the problem?
View 24 RepliesMy coworker is giving me a clean 2001 Santa Fe with 151000 miles. It was running fine then all of the sudden it lost power but was able to stutter home. I went to check it out it started fine but idled a little rough. When I revved the engine it rose to about 2500rpm and stuttered then stalled. Kind of like it was rich and choking out. It then had difficulty restarting.
View 10 RepliesI recently had work done on my Volvo 2008 V50. The front axles were replaced, new brake pads in front, and new calipers and pads in the rear. When I got the car back the brake pedal would go to the floor... turned out the master had been compromised when the mechanics were bleeding the system. That was replaced (at no charge) as well.
All seems well except that now when I brake suddenly, which happens a lot in So Cal traffic, I feel a thump under the floor. I don't hear anything but can feel thump or a knock right under my feet (driver's side). This only happens when braking quickly. Braking at a slow speed does not produce the thump.
2011 Santa Fe with 3.5L V6 and AWD, 38000 Kms:
Very recent work (last month or so) - new battery (old one had a bad cell), brake light switch and for a repair of the seat adjustment bar (not sure what it is called). The most recent oil change was done by me in November and I have only put about 1600 kms on it since. I put 5W20 Castrol Syntec and a made in Korea WIX filter. I fill the oil to just a hair below the top dot on the dip stick. I torque everything properly.
OIL LIGHT PROBLEM:
When I was driving home from work this evening, I had to brake a little harder than I normally would when I was turning into the back lane (about 8 houses from my house). I thought I saw the oil light come on, but I wasn't sure. I continued down the lane when someone walked out in front of me and I had to brake again. This time, the oil light did come on for sure and then went off when I took the brakes off. It was -20 C outside, so I continued to my house which was now 4 homes away. I braked to go into my (heated!) garage and the light came on again as soon as I touched the brakes.
I decided to let the car sit for an hour to get an accurate reading on the dip stick. I checked it and the level read exactly where I had filled it - just a touch below the top dot. I took the oil filter out to check that it was still seated properly and was not obviously clogged. It looked just fine. No signs of any leaks in the engine compartment or under the vehicle. I decided to take the car out again to go around the block - maybe not a great idea. The light didn't come on again when I braked until the vehicle had warmed up again.
What could the problem be?
I guess I need to take it in, but I start work at 7 AM and my wife is on maternity leave and she needs a car tomorrow. So, this means me taking the Yaris is out. She can't take the Santa Fe to the dealer with my infant son and so I guess I have to get it towed. This is bullshit. This POS has been in the shop several times since November.
I have a 95 Pontiac grand am with a 98 motor. Everything is factory, no modifications. I just recently starting having an issue with the car attempting to stall out while driving over bumps and on some hard turns as well. Haven't replaced anything yet but would like to know what is causing this? I have shook wires, checked for broken ones and found nothing.
View 1 RepliesCode P0322 Mod10 Ignition/Dist Engine Speed Input Circuit no signal. Car had a hard time starting, then stalling, now it has been fine since the weekend.
View 2 RepliesSons saturn will not go into gear after a hard braking action. The shifter will move, the car just acts like it is in nuetral, engine revs with gas, no movement in any gear or reverse. After waiting for a few minutes he can put it in gear and go as if nothing happened. I have checked the fluid, its nice pink and clear and full. He says it has happened 3 times in the past week, has driven it for over a year with no major problems. He is 17, but seems decent with a manual.
I have tried to replicate but can not the car drive good, no shifting problems on normal driving and no check engine lights.
When I brake very hard my right front wheel will skid, it releases quickly if I modulate the brakes. I removed the calipers to check for any frozen pistons. They are free. Pads are even and the rotors are good. I did bleed the system and no difference. what would cause this? Since I have looked at the mechanical aspect I wonder if there is sensor issue, is that a potential? I am not even sure if there is a sensor.
View 1 RepliesI have never experienced what others have described as the brake delay issue, neither before nor after the ABS recall. I have even purposely driven over rough patches of road to try to duplicate.
After two days of rain, I noticed yesterday that my brake rotors were rusty. I remembered a comment from qbee42 about putting the car in neutral while braking in order to remove regenerative braking and to force friction braking to clean rusty rotors.
Yesterday I was approaching a stop light with plenty of distance and no one in front. I started braking around 45 mph with regenerative braking and then pulled the shift lever to neutral. When in neutral and with the regenerative braking removed, I felt the decrease in braking when transitioning to friction braking and I had to brake a little harder in order to have the same amount of braking as before in regenerative braking.
I can see where someone can "perceive" this as a surge forward but I only interpreted this as a decrease in braking force, as others have stated here many times.
I tried this again at the next stop light and felt the same "sensation" again and had to brake slightly harder when in neutral in order to have the same braking force. It was apparent to me that for the same brake pedal position that the friction brakes do not exert as much braking force as the same pedal position with regenerative braking.
Is this similar to what others are reporting as "brake delay" or "surge forward" issues?
Have to braked hard enough for ABS to be activated, (like for a red light you weren't paying attention to) and the hazard flashers activate?
View 24 RepliesI just recently got a 2004 r32 and it came with almost brand new rotors/pads, at most 500 miles on them. I just realized the other day that when driving freeway speeds, about 70-80 and braking down to 40-50 the entire cabin shakes.
View 24 RepliesWhen I brake hard. My truck wants to veer right. It drives straight otherwise.
I recently had my front shock replaced and prior tp that my truck did the same thing, although it was much worse since my left front shock was leaking. Originally I thought it was pulling because of the bad shock but now that thet've been replaced I am not to sure.
Alignment issue or something else entirely? Coud bad rear shocks cause the issue?