Chevrolet - 1500 :: 2001 - While Braking Or Coming To Stop ABS Comes On?
Oct 26, 2013
2001 Chevy Silverado, 2wd, 5.3 engine, 232,000 miles, front hubs with integral sensors replaced about 20,000 miles ago. Now when I brake, and just before coming to a complete stop, the ABS kicks in. Doesn't happen if I brake hard. If I let up on the brake momentarily, it stops and the rest of the stop is smooth.
Sometimes the brake and ABS lights come on, but when I had the OBD hooked up, there were no stored codes, and the brake and ABS lights go off once you turn the ignition off and then restart the engine. I suspect the problem is with the sensors for the rear wheels, but don't know where they are located.
There are no wires going to the rear wheels or the axle. Tried pulling the fuse for the ABS system, but that makes the brake and ABS lights stay on constantly.
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The vehicle: 2002 Chevy Silverado 1500 w/ Z71.
The problem: Steerage issue. No problem exhibited while driving. However, at stop or very slow there is a loss of power steering but only when turning the wheels right. There is also an audible sound when turning to the right. Kind of a whooshing or air expulsion?
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I have a 2006 Chevy Silverado. After a complete stop a distinct "clunk" comes from the rear passenger tire. It's not heard or felt every time maybe 70%. I've raised the rear end and spun both tires to check for a sticking caliper. I haven't removed the tire. Brake fluid is full and in good shape.
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I have a 1993 Chevy C1500, and about 3 weeks ago I started noticing that whenever it gets to temp I start hearing a knocking coming from the valves, and I lose almost all oil pressure. I also lose a lot of power. What could be causing this? Am I looking at a full on engine rebuild?
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I have a 1995 4X4 Chevy Silverado. Well tonight the lower radiator hose came off, and all the coolant drained out while my wife was driving it around town. She noticed that the temp gauge spiked, and tried to get home. The truck stalled, was able to restart it for a moment, stalled again and now when we try to start it up there is a low spinning noise coming from the area around the starter. I think it might be the starter trying to engage the flywheel. My question is whether or not this could because the motor has seized, or is there another symptom that could potentially make this noise.
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1991 Chevy 1500 pickup truck. The heater is ALWAYS on, no matter what I do. I suspect that some sort of mechanical controller or vent shut off device/air mixer is malfunctioning because I don't think the heat is actually coming from the heater core, I think it's just engine heat.
I pulled the fuse on the heater which turned off the blower and controls, but the heat is still coming out the vents, especially at highway speeds. So this leads me to believe that exterior air is pulling engine heat into the cab.
I don't know how I would even begin to fix this. I need a starting point. Where would I look for the vent or flap or whatever that mixes the cool air with the hot air? The AC hasn't worked since I bought the truck about 18 months ago.
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Recently had my brakes/rotors replaced on my 2008 chevy trailblazer. the problem is when slowing down to almost stopping the brakes sound like when you stop on ice and the ABS applies..The vehicle stops..but concerned what that feeling and noise is..After applying the gas it sounds like something is stuck? Occasionally my traction control light goes on?
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1993 chevy silverardo ... There is a knocking noise coming from passenger side dash i turn the key on it starts tell maybe i get down the road, when i turn the truck off it knock for like 25 secs. I just got the truck didn't find out until I took it home.
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I have a 2001 Chevy 2wheel drive 4.3 V6 Pickup with a long lasting engine knock. I use it only to haul trash and building materials, maybe once every other week. The knock is sporadic. If I take a long trip and drive on an interstate highway the following morning upon start-up the truck will knock heavily and continue to do so as long as it is running. If I take the truck for a short local trip, the following morning it will start with no knock and only start knocking after driving maybe 10 miles. If I drive only short trips, the truck will almost always start without knocking and only knock once it is fully warmed up. I purchased this vehicle from my brother who drove it this way ever since he purchased it at a salvage auction (full of dents and some damage) who put over 20,000 miles on it with this same engine knock.
Other than the dents, the truck is in great shape, no rust, and has 118,000 miles on it. I would like to keep this thing because it was very cheap and I only use it sporadically. So, I'd like to know if I'm going to eventually have to put a motor in it or if there is some small fix I could make to stop this knocking sound. The sound: It is heavy. It sounds bad. It knocks along with the rpm of the motor. My brother, who is also a great mechanic, thinks it may be piston slap or something in the valve system. I've also had a mechanic listen to it. He thinks it's a rod bearing or wrist pin. What I don't understand is how could it be any of those things when it makes a difference how I drive it the last time it was used? Could it be something simple like a vacuum issue, knock sensor or crank sensor?
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I have an old base model 2001 Silverado, so manual everything. Here's my problem-- the air direction control knob (feet, defrost, face, etc.) is stuck on defrost. Literally stuck. Obviously, the knob attaches to and is supposed to turn a metal rod that then changes the direction of the air flow, but the rod will not turn at all...I even detached the knob and tried to turn it with a pliers! The climate control and fan speed knobs both work. What might be causing this?
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2001 Chevy Silverado, 1500 4wd. 135k miles. Front passenger wheel squeaks when rolled forward or back. Checked brakes and they are fine. While I had it apart, I could hear the squeak which sounded inside. I don't know the terminology, but there is a bar between two rubber boots. The squeak sounded as if it was coming from the boot near the center of the truck where there are four bolts.
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I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado with the 4.8L V-8 engine. It acts like it is running out of gas ( the gas tank is over half full). The truck has sat for about 6 months in this condition without being started here in Sacramento, CA. I then replaced the fuel filter and for a few minutes it started and the engine ran fine (without actually driving it). A few days later I started it again and it now again acts like it has fuel starvation, it will rev up briefly then act like it is running out of fuel. I know the fuel pumps are the Achilles Heel of these trucks, but before I try changing it I was wondering if there might perhaps be another problem such as the new fuel filter plugging up quickly or possibly an electrical problem. I've always heard these fuel pumps either work or they don't work, nothing in between. This problem is intermittent but big enough the truck is not driveable. Is there any way to get a good take on the problem before diving into the fuel pump replacement and hoping that solves the problem ?
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The noise is not the usual vibrate noise that happens.
The Noise: As I brake harder to the final stop I hear a grind/bump noise. It is hard to describe. It is abrupt and quick. I don't believe it affects the braking just annoying and doesnt sound normal.
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Picked up my MK6 GTI DSG last Saturday. I have noticed a slight shudder when braking and coming to a gentle stop. At first I thought it may be the brakes bedding in so I kept it over the weekend. By today there's still no change. Is it normal for DSG transmission stop like this? Because I have never driven DSG transmission.
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I have a 2016 is350. I just took off my is250 exhaust and installed it onto the 350. It is an invidia axle back paired with a tsudo midpipe. Since I have made the switch I have noticed several times after braking and coming to a complete stop within a couple seconds the exhaust "pops" usually 1 time and it is fairly loud. This did not happen on the 250. What is concerning to me is that it doesn't sound like normal exhaust popping/gurgling when slowing down or downshifting it is more of a sudden loud single pop after coming to a stop.
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I have a 2011 Sonata with 4,000 miles. Recently, I have noticed that when coming to a stop, I hear a light thump noise in the center console area near the gear shift lever. If I put my hand on the gear shifter, I can feel it move ever so slightly at the time of the noise. The noise is very repeatable. If I take my foot off the brake and start rolling and then I reapply the brake (either softly or hard) it will make the thump noise. It is not very loud and can be drowned out with loud music, but if listening to news, it is very noticeable and annoying in city traffic, where stops are very frequent. I put the car up on ramps and looked underneath and did not see anything noticeable. It will probably require the center console between the seats to be removed.
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I am the proud owner of a P.O.S it’s a 2001 Chevrolet Malibu, the trouble is with my ABS braking system. I replaced both hubs a year ago they have the ABS sensor built into them. The light has started coming on so I checked the voltage on both sides of the car the reading are, driver side at 169mv-320mv and the ohm reading is 1.02K, on the passenger side it reads 140mv-240mv the ohm reads 1.01K, one is a bit lower but well above the 50mv minimum. When I restart my car sometimes the light is out until the ABS kicks in on a wet or gravel road. Then the dash light comes on and the ABS system shuts down again, the only thing a code reader states is low voltage in the system but does not call out what side or where the low voltage is coming from…
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When coming to a stop my abs system will activate at about 5 mph. I replaced the Lt front speed sensor because of a dash light and now I have this other problem with the activation at 5 mph. I did find a service bulletin about the speed sensor that states to make sure the sensor surface is clean and that the sensor seated properly. I have cleaned the surface more then once but it is still doing the activation thing.
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Passengers side tail light doesn't react when braking, using hazards or blinker, what do I replace? The bulb is lit, but doesn't blink or brighten when the brakes are applied. As of right now I'm replacing the bulb socket seeing as when I replaced the bulb the contacts were covered in a brown crust, is there something else I should be looking at?
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I have 2014 Ram Outdoorsman hemi. When braking hard engine stalls. Starts right back up. Took to dealer under warranty, only 35k, he diagnosed it for 10 weeks. Said it happened several times for him. Computer does not trip code for problem. He said their is a problem but he does not know what it is and can not fix it, without an error code.
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I have an '02 Tracker and I've noticed if I have several accessories running, that my engine will start to sputter and come to the verge of stalling when I come to a stop. It happens if I have the heat/air and radio or charging my phone on together. What is the cause and/or remedy for this? I've changed the alternator a few yrs. back, but it still continued.
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