I change my 3.23 gears on my limited slip differential to 3.90s everything was installed back to how it was oil was added at the end...however when i went to test drive it, it was whining and on reverse it would be popping..
View 19 RepliesMy 1997 4.0 Rear Wheel Drive is making a clicking noise when it is put into gear or when it switches from drive to reverse and vice versa. Sound is coming from the back of van. Does not make noise all the time. Drove 50 miles last night with no problems and minimal clicking. Could it be U-Joints going bad? Or is this a different problem?
View 6 RepliesIt's a 1999 Toyota Celica GT 2.2L, about 190000 miles and I just replaced the transmission not too long ago. Here's what happened, I was sitting a light, the light turned green, and I pushed the gas and the car stalled. I put it in park, tried to turn it on, and it won't start, but is still turning over, making an awful whining noise. Not the transmission. Battery is good, windows, stereo, etc still work. Terminals are good. Everything is still connected, I just changed my oil about 1000 miles ago, still has oil. Has transmission fluid, actually has all it's fluids, no leaks. No check engine light or any other lights. She did not overheat, if anything was colder than usual, No water in my motor, everything LOOKS good, and I take good care of my car, so I'm really baffled. I just spent my savings on the transmission, I'm not a mechanic, I'm just learning to do things on my own.
View 19 RepliesMy 2007 3.0L XLT 2WD Ranger with 7.5" traction-lock differential started making expensive noises last weekend coming from the rear end. Shop has not yet opened up the differential because the initial though was just do a swap.
Turns out that 7.5" LS is hard to find, plenty of open diffs available. So I suggested that I'd rather swap in an 8.8" LS rear end anyway but turns out that these are also hard to find. Was a LS rear end option just not very common? or do these get scooped up just as fast as they become available?
My year-old Camry hybrid stalled out last night. It was the second time this has happened. The first time, about a month ago, I made a quick start from a light, followed by a quick stop, both actions to avoid an accident. (I was about to get rear-ended and scooted into the intersection to give the guy closing in my mirror more room.) After the stop, the car had no power but it started up, no problem. Last night, I was about a minute into my trip, stopped at a light, and the power just died. Again, it started no problem.
This time I noticed that the radio went out. Not sure about the headlights. The emergency blinkers came on at the touch of the button before I restarted. In both cases, I stepped on the accelerator and got no power. Took it to the dealer and they couldn't replicate the problem, of course, and whatever interrogation they did of the systems found no faults. They had to be convinced that I knew the difference between an actual stall and just going from gas to electric. It's kind of disconcerting to just stall out in the middle of the street. And I'm concerned that this is a problem that could get worse -- probably just after the warranty lapses.
my 1992 960 wagon with 332K miles today started making a moaning noise when making a significant turn at low speed. At first it seemed to be only when I was accelerating but if that was true, it now is doing it at any low-speed big turn. Tonight, turning around in the driveway, it added what I call juddering during the turn. So naturally I am concerned.If it is something as minor as power steering fluid I might trust a local gas station to fill it up, but probably not any more than that. (There used to be a dealer about 45" away, but they seem to be gone now, and the closest one is hours away. I am 250 miles and one week away from my own trusted mechanic, so I hope it is something like fluid!).I haven't noticed any puddles on the driveway where it is parked, but I suppose it could leak out only when the engine is on and the car is moving.
View 4 RepliesSome of you may have seen my recent post about raising the X. Its about 5" higher in the rear. Prior to raising the X, I had a vibration at around 65 to 70 mph. It felt like a tire was out of balance. Go a steady slower speed or a steady faster speed and it would go away.
Since raising the X, the vibration is gone, which I thought was cool. But now I have a "grind" type noise coming from the rear. I have to do all the testing on the freeway. There are no issues, no noises at regular street speeds.
On the freeway, when accelerating fairly hard up a hill from say 65 to 80, I can hear sort of a rumbly, grindy noise from the rear. Its not really loud but I can hear and feel it throughout the cab. If I coast at around 70-75 mph (just keep the speed the same) on flat ground, I can hear it come and go when the X is truly coasting for a few seconds. If I get up to say 85 and let off the gas, I can hear it as I decelerate until I get down to around 65.
This all only happens between say 75 and 90. I get no noise below 65-ish.
I had the drive shaft out over the weekend. The u-joints had no play and were free moving. I did feel the smallest play in the slip yoke, so I gave it a good greasing. That didn't change anything.
I'm guessing the problem is in the differential somewhere. I have not pulled the cover off yet to check the fluid.
I have a '96 jeep grand charokee Laredo with what I've been told is a bad differential. The bearings and gears are all shot, but can't afford to get a new one. I have taken off the front driveshaft to try and make it drivable again, but it is still making the grinding noise it was before. As well as catching real bad. Just wondering if I need to bother with it, or even attempt anything further.
View 10 RepliesFirstly the truck in question is a 1994 GMC K1500 5 speed 350TBI.
Ok so I'm not sure what is causing the noise I'm hearing. its a humming that I think is coming from the front differential but I'm not sure, maybe it is the transfer case but it certainly feels like its in the front end and my steering does seem affected while in four wheel drive. It only makes the noise while in four wheel drive.
I have one off size tire on the rear end and I'm not sure if the actual tread circumference is the same between the front and rear tires or if any of this would really cause my four wheel drive to act up. I am planning on putting a new set of matched tires on it soon, so if they are the cause of the problem then that's good news.
I bought my brothers car from him 3 weeks ago, 2002 Hyandai Santa Fe, and had the timing belt changed the same day I made the purchase at 157,000miles. After the timing belt change my brother said the car sounded different but there was nothing obviously wrong. 1 week after there was a loud engine noise that went away on its own. Now, 5 days ago the check engine light came on and 2 days ago the engine created a very loud whrring noise that was obviously very wrong! I popped the hood, checked fluids, and it wasn't overheating, I took a video of the noise and then drove it into the dealership. The noise had stopped by then and luckily I had the video of the noise. They performed 1 hr diagnostics and stated its either the valve train (in which the engine would have to be replaced $2-$3000) or buckets (what are these) which will cost $600. They need 3 more hours for diagnostics, They said it has nothing to do with the timing belt replacement - do you agree? Why else would this happen?
View 10 RepliesI bought this van (1995 chevy van 20) last year and the rear end made some sounds but not as bad as its now.
So, after buying it I decided to open up the rear end and inspect for any damage to suggest it needs repairs. No signs of metal chips, nicks, or any wear on the bearings and gears. After a while of driving it I decided to remove the carriage and pinion from the rear end to give it a close inspection. After doing this and finding no clear sign of war or damage, i decided to replace the carriage barrings to see if that made a difference. After placing the new bearings back on the carriage, pinion back into the rear differential, and trying to do it all by myself, i lost the marks i had placed on the carriage bolts and clamps since I had little time to get it back together.
After that I had no other choice but to place the clamps bolts where i could estimate they belong. I was done, then drove it and some of the noise went away but a grinding sound on decelerating emerged. Well, now that sound is gotten worst and its more like a grinding sound. I can assume that not placing back the bolts and carriage clamps back changed the position of the carriage relative to where it was, but am not 100% sure. how can I correct the positioning of the carriage? if that is not the issue what test can i perform to find the culprit?
I brought my 4runner in to fix a rear axle seal and to see if they could isolate a clunking noise I've been having. They said the clunking was coming from the rear differential (I believe him as that's what I heard, while driving or even just putting it into gear). They have yet to call me back, but any guesses here as to whether it is a bearing (my guess, as it is most pronounced on a bumpy road) or a cracked gear or something else. I've been driving with a clunk for about a week, but have various clunk problems for the last 80k miles ....
View 14 RepliesI have been hauling a lot of garbage with my 96 ranger this last week. The differential has been making a little more than usual noise like growling, but it has always been smooth, now all of a sudden it shakes like a tire out of balance up to about 55 then it is like a switch is thrown and everything quiets down and the shaking goes away, until i get around 55. I haven't climbed under the truck yet just checked the tires and grabbed the drive line they are all ok,i don't see any leaks so it is a head scratcher. Hopefully it will be something easy, but it hardly ever is.
View 7 RepliesI have a whirling or spinning noise coming from front differential at speeds above 30 mph. The noise stops when I release the accelerator? From what I read maybe the bearings.
View 2 RepliesI had the differential control module recall/flash performed last week and now the car makes a whining noise at speeds north of 35mph. The noise seems to emanate from the front of the car (near the radiator). The dealer was able to hear the sound -- and unable to diagnose the problem. They reflashed the stepper -- and the noise remained.
They moved the stepper motor, drove the car -- and the noise remained. Finally, they put the stepper back in -- reflashed it -- and then the noise went away. Subsequently, I drove the car noise-free for about 250 miles (over several days) -- and then the noise came back. I'm also having the same problem that others report about the tight-radius binding when turning (which the flash was supposed to solve).
questions:
1) any experience of whining noise after the flash recall
2) i see that some had the stepper motor replaced...what was the underlying reason?
3) it seems that the stepper is the problem -- but could it really be the differential that's not keeping the right ratios?
At 120K mi, had ALL the service work done. Changing the trans fluid as well as the 4WD differential was due. A noise in the rear diff began. So the mech said a Honda bulletin stated that this happens sometimes when changing the fluid. Ok. Changed it again. ANYWAY, the noise is still slightly there when going from a stopped position .... steering wheel all the way to one side or the other ... and giving the gas. IS THE REAR DIFF BEING DAMAGED?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1999 GMC Sierra. The rear differential cover was leaking on me for past couple of months, but I was putting it off. FInally this weekend my truck starting making an airplane sound that seemed to be coming from the rear. The sound happened on acceleration only, and increased in amplitude and frequency as the speed increased and as I pressed the gas more. If I let go of the gas, or let it cruise, then the sound would sputter once or twice, and go away. It would resume if I pressed on the gas again.
Since the rear differential cover was leaking, I thought I burned out the gears. When I changed the cover, the gears appeared to be fine. The lubricant was super low, and did smell burned out though. I refilled the fluid and put a new cover on. This did not solve my noise problem though.
Is it still the rear differential that is making the noise? Is it something else? How hard is it, and how involved is it to replace the rear differential? Can I replace its components, and which ones?
Recent noticed a whirling noise coming from the front of the car. Pitch increased with velocity, but not RPMs. A mechanic diagnosed it as a worn front differential. I have a long highway trip coming up and want to know if this will stress it to its breaking point and I'll be stranded. Also, what should it cost to repair. This mechanic said an overall is $1K. 267K miles on a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 4.8L V8 engine. Never had a work done on the front differential.
View 7 Replies2003 Matrix XR, 89K, well maintained by old owner, just about to become mine.Took it to old owner's mechanic for pre-sale checkup. He said humming noise was rear differential and replaced it.
Now it pulls to the right when driving, to the left when braking (also throbs), and generally just feels like total crap to drive. There's also a noise that I hear as sort of a ...rough grinding/roaring sound? Seems to be from the back.
Details: the hum increased in pitch as wheel speed went up. Nothing else changed it - not going from dirt to pavement, drive to neutral, uphill to down, straight to cornering. Otherwise, everything felt fine - handled really nicely, that's why I wanted to buy it.
When I picked it up from the shop after the differential implant I drove it about a mile, flipped out at the way it felt, and took it right back; it was near closing time. Kid put it up on the lift, looked and said it was a front wheel bearing and to bring it back next morning. This morning the still-owner picked it up, test drove it and said "Yep, feels all loosey-goosey," brought it in to the shop, and different guy says "it's the alignment, bring it in tomorrow."
Alignment? Wheel bearing? Why all of a sudden? Maybe the differential is bad or not installed properly? Why am I the only one thinking this? Also, they lost one of the springs to the bit at the front where the exhaust joins on to the engine so there's a big loud exhaust noise, which they didn't notice when they test drove it.
Alright so about a few weeks ago I started hearing what sounded like it was time for new brake pads. But the other day I turned the corner and my neighbor came up to me and said he heard my truck making a metal on metal type noise. So I said okay fml, took it to a local mechanic.
Called me today and said the brakes are fine but it's rear differential, he said they put the truck on the lift and used the stethoscope and heard a metal noise inside the rear differential and said that the fluid in there was very metallic.
I bought this truck about 7 months ago from the dealership. It has a total 90,000 miles on it. What does it look like this could cost me worst comes to worst?
I have a 2002 f150 5.4 with 3.55 limited slip... For months now every time I hit a bump with the front right side there is a loud bang (sounds like a wore out bushing), and if I am driving slow at an idle you can here a thump every time the wheel goes around. And when I turn all the way it sounds more like a grinding sound.... The noise is getting very bad, what it is. I am very mechanically inclined but cannot figure it out.
Everything in the front end seem tight. When I lay under it if I get someone to spin te wheel the thump sound sounds like its in the front dif, kinda echoes through the front drive shaft but u joints seem good. I really think it's in the dif, and I'm hoping the banging noise I hear when I hit bumps is the same problem as the noise when the wheels go around....