I have a SAAB 2000 95, and the heat isn't working. I was told by a local shop that the blend door motor isn't opening to allow the system to switch from air to heat. He said that the heating system was working, but that the hot air can't exit the dash. He said it would have to be repaired at a dealership.
View 3 RepliesStarted the other day. Seems like the blend door that channels air to the dash vents is opening and closing as it feels like it. Sometimes open for awhile, sometimes closed. The defrost vents keep blowing cold and normal while doing this.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2001 saab 95 se and half of the cars heat works the other doesnt only cold are comes out and its not a good feeling in the winter. Only the drivers side vents push cold air all others work fine even in the back.
View 30 RepliesMy wifes 2004 Santa Fe has no heat. From what I have read, a common cause of this is the blend door. I pulled the glove box, but was unable to locate the blend door. On the parts diagram it appears to be on the bottom of the heater box. Every tutorial I have seen show it on the right side, and easily accessible.
View 16 RepliesMy 2003 mountaineer 4.6L has front and rear heat. The issue is the heat in the front is barely warm and the heat in the back is poor. I have replaced the blend doors front and back and I'm sure they work as I can go from cold to barely warm and back again when I change the temperature setting.
I can feel hot fluid going from the engine to the front heater core and also down under the vehicle to the rear when the vehicle is warm. The return on the front is almost cold - so heat is being given up by the heater core in front, but it seems to me that if the return is almost cold, there's not enough hot coolant delivery. The overall heat is very poor in the cabin.
The coolant temperature gauge is steady and just below 1/2 with no erratic movements. I flushed the front heater core a couple years ago. Coolant has also been flushed last year. I know that the heat is underpowered in this vehicle, but it's a far cry from when it was new.
My actuator/motor doesn't have the screws that hold it on. It's just clipped down. Can I just pry it up & off with out it breaking the clips that hold it down? It's a 97 Ranger.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2013 Lariat with 135K miles. Yesterday started a loud and consistent clicking under the center dash. When I turn the heater up to 77 degrees or above it stops. I have dual AC controls and the passenger side will now occasionally blow hot compared to the driver side when I have them on the same temperature.
Based on what I have researched I need to replace my heater blend door. Need to confirm if this sounds correct? Are there different blend doors for driver vs. passenger side repair?
As importantly I am looking for a good set of instructions on how to gain access to the heater blend door motor in order to take care of the replacement myself. My understanding is it is a $40 part buy may be heavy on services due to access. My 2013 is stocked with the sync touch screen / navigation option .....
Was on my way to get an oil change at my buddies shop. Started hearing a clicking sound. My climate controls no longer will respond. the Auto button is lit up but I can't turn the air off. I get hot air from the vents. When the clicking does stop the system goes back to working order. My friend checked it out and says the clicking is from the blend door motor.
View 6 RepliesHaving issues with the blend door on the AC system. I will have it on AC or MAX AC. I will have it on the setting to be point out of the dash at me. It occasionally will switch to the defrost windshield setting. I can hear the blend door moving and changing from chest level to the windshield.
View 12 Replies2007. Blower motor not working. Replaced 2 fuses for blower motor and relay. Blower motor working. Horrible racket and steam coming from under car when I engaged car. I took the fuses back out. Air conditioner stuck on. I had to take the Compressor fuse out also. Car drives fine just have no heat/air.
View 2 RepliesI believe my 2004 Ford Explorer has a blend door problem in the heating system. It won't stay open and makes a clicking sound constantly, thus providing no heat! In past discussions I found one that says this is a major fix. I can't afford to take it to a dealer. My brother is an "old style" mechanic who can work on older (50's,60's,70's)cars and is not familiar with new technology or electronics. Could a person do this job easily or should I sell it and get a newer car?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 E150 (Glavel Conversion) van and the interior lights do not illuminate when the doors are opened, although they used to. They also no longer turn on from the headlight dimmer switch. They will turn on individually if the manual switch at each light is pressed while the engine is running, so the bulbs and wiring appear to be working. I replaced the headlight switch with no noticeable effect. Is there a timing circuit that switches these on for a short period of time to allow illuminated entry that could have failed? If so, where would I find the module and how would I test? Relays and fuses look good.
View 1 RepliesMy daughter has complained about periods of no heat- fan blows but cold air. Next time the heater works fine. She is keeping coolant level up but does need to add a bit (pint or so) say every other month. Last week during the Chicago snow storm she called and told me the heater (which had been working) blew a bunch of "smoke" into the car and onto the windshield and windows which then froze solid. I assume the smoke meant steam and she did say it had a sweet smell when I asked her.
Car was towed to a SAAB dealer who ran the car for a couple hours and found no issue and then drove the car for a period with no issue. I had my local mechanic also check it in the past for no heat and it also worked fine then. Only thing I can think of is that there might be a small/intermittent leak in the head gasket with an exhaust bubble forced into the cooling system? That does not explain the steam in the passenger compartment though. Could it?
Car: 2013 Hyundai Santa Fe
Problem: We have a sweet burning smell like antifreeze or oil coming from the vents when the heat is on.
We have taken it to 3 mechanics and they can't figure out what it is. We expect the heater core is going bad, but the symptoms do not fully match what we are experiencing. We do not have any leaking antifreeze, nor do we have any windows fogging. They also ran a pressure test which came back normal.
2004 Tahoe that started with no heat in rear. Checked all hoses and they get hot all the way to back. Replaced rear blend door actuator and worked for a little while. Tonight, took a 90 minute trip and it blew ice cold until suddenly it started blowing heat 45 minutes into trip but then went back to cold after about 10 minutes. Actuator is electric not vacuum. Could it be in the controls where you adjust the temp?
View 5 RepliesI'm getting heat out of the passenger side, no heat on the driver's. Does not matter what is selected - floor, dash or defrost - the driver side blows nothing but cold air.
View 1 RepliesMy 2005 Honda Civic has just started doling out heat when it feels like it regardless of where I set the dial. It seem that when I am accelerating or applying gas, heat is available but when I am stopped at a light or coasting downhill, cold air is all that is available. Is this a thermostat issue or something more dire?
View 1 RepliesA few weeks ago my car started overheating and blowing cold air while I was on the highway. I took it to my mechanic and he found that the radiator was leaking. Two weeks later the car was overheating and the heater was blowing cold air when I was on the highway. I had it towed to the same mechanic and the car wouldn't overheat nor would it blow cold air. He drove it all around and on the highway but couldn't get the problems I was having to occur. Now I have intermittent heat. Sometimes I will start the car and it will take 20+ minutes for the heat to blow warm air. Other times the heat works fine for a while and then starts blowing cold air. Usually when it starts blowing cold air I begin to smell a sweet odor, possibly coolant. It hasn't overheated again, but I have stayed off the highway.
I just had the thermostat changed, and the upper radiator hose warms up quickly. When the heater is blowing cold air, one or both of the hoses connecting to the heater core do not warm up. Sometimes it's both hoses, other times the hose going in is hot but the other hose is cool. My mechanic seems to think that the head gasket is leaking air into the system, and that the air is preventing the coolant/water from being properly transported throughout the car. He did a pressure test to see if it was the head gasket when I brought the car in but it wasn't conclusive. Does it sound like a head gasket leak, or could it be a blocked heater core, or a weak water pump? So far I haven't noticed any coolant leaks, but I could be missing something.
What is the difference between :
Part # XF2H-19E616-FA and
Part # YL5Z-19E616-AA?
The middle numbers are the same. And they look the same? the first one is mine. Blend door actuator out of a 2000 ford windstar. Will another part # work? If the connection is the same?
At 202,000 miles, my 2002 Saab 95 engine went out -- the motor clanks and spews clouds of smoke. I want to replace the motor with a CarFax verified low mileage engine because I plan to keep the car for a few more years and give it to my son. My mechanic will charge around $900. But the engine prices vary on miles, of course. The lower mileage has higher prices, etc.
View 7 RepliesRecently when I adjust the temperature, there is a clicking from under the dash. It sounds like the Blend door is stuck.
View 7 Replies