What is the difference between :
Part # XF2H-19E616-FA and
Part # YL5Z-19E616-AA?
The middle numbers are the same. And they look the same? the first one is mine. Blend door actuator out of a 2000 ford windstar. Will another part # work? If the connection is the same?
I have a 99 EB Expedition 5.4 with EATC climate control. I replaced the heater core that had been leaking severely. When I got the dash back on I adjusted the controls with the engine running while watching the blend door actuator under the dash. it moved but not as much as I thought it should. So I drilled an "inspection" hole behind the glove box and into the plenum cover. I watched the blend door open and close when the hot/cold buttons were adjusted, but the movement was intermittent.
I'd checked the blend door for cracks prior to installing the heater core and found none. I left things alone for a day while I drove as normal. When I had time to work on it again, the actuator quit working. I figured it was damaged from the coolant leaking into the cab so I decided to replace it. It was indeed full of coolant. I bought a Dorman actuator (part #604-216) and plugged it into the wiring harness to test it before installing it. I adjusted the controls with the ignition in the "run" position and nothing happened. I'm at a loss as to what could be the problem. I've searched for this problem, but the only threads I find are incomplete or deal with the "manual" controls. I checked all my fuses and they are all good.
My questions are:
Could I have bought the wrong actuator? Would the harness fit the "manual" actuator? The part number was identified as being for the main blend door for "automatic" controls. Is there a possibility the EATC head unit is bad? It still sends air to the panel, floor and defrost when adjusted.
How do I test the voltage at the connector? I just bought a multimeter but I'm not sure which wires in the harness deliver power to the actuator. I know there are a lot of people on this site who've gone through the heater core/blend door ordeal and have lived to tell about it. What I should do next.
Where is the Blend Door Actuator on the ford Aerostar?
View 14 RepliesTime for me to replace the actuator. I just have one. I've watched many videos on it but none say anything about re-calibration before using. A few posts say this is needed. Is it? if so how is it done?
View 6 RepliesI have an Explorer with automatic A/C. The blend door actuator broke (a gear inside) so I replace it with a Dorman part (could not find the Ford ones anywhere). Part #604-202, looks identical and fits. But... doesn't work.
If I do the EATC test (OFF+FLOOR, then AUTOMATIC), the display shows error coded 024, 025, 052. What is the meaning of those?
Whenever my A/C is turned on, it blows nice cold air. As long as the blower is on "1", "2", and sometimes ", it blows cold air. If I turn it to "4" I can hear a small "thud" behind the dash. It sounds like the blend door is shutting. All my functions work like they should. I think the actuator is goin out and isn't pushing the door all the way closed, and when I turn it to "4" it pushes it te other way.
View 5 RepliesI purchased a 6.7 Diesel 2014 F250 Super Duty Crew Cab about 3 months ago. Yesterday I started my truck using the remote starter from inside my house. Seconds after I heard a loud noise. Looked outside, saw nothing and thought nothing of it till I went to open my door and realized that the driver door window shattered! I live in a quiet area, it wasn't a rock thrown at my truck or anything like that, it just Blew!!!!
I'm wondering if the truck might have some sort of pressure or torque if you wish on that window to make it just pop! My mirrors were folded in however I can't see that playing a role......
I bought this truck used and the guy said it needed a new blend door actuator so I bought a new one off eBay I installed it, plugged the wire back in and turned on the key and it started smoking, it burned up. The wires have been cut before and have been butt connected back together. I notified the place I bought it from and they sent me back a new one but I'm scared it will do it again.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2013 Lariat with 135K miles. Yesterday started a loud and consistent clicking under the center dash. When I turn the heater up to 77 degrees or above it stops. I have dual AC controls and the passenger side will now occasionally blow hot compared to the driver side when I have them on the same temperature.
Based on what I have researched I need to replace my heater blend door. Need to confirm if this sounds correct? Are there different blend doors for driver vs. passenger side repair?
As importantly I am looking for a good set of instructions on how to gain access to the heater blend door motor in order to take care of the replacement myself. My understanding is it is a $40 part buy may be heavy on services due to access. My 2013 is stocked with the sync touch screen / navigation option .....
Recently when I adjust the temperature, there is a clicking from under the dash. It sounds like the Blend door is stuck.
View 7 RepliesOk, I know the problem is the blend door, but not which one. I hear a clicking constantly whether the truck is started or not near the center of the passenger side. I can adjust the temp to be 65-70 on the driver side and be fine, but the passenger side is hot. I've looked for TSB's for 2010 and have come up empty. I bought the truck used, and bought an extended warranty, but not sure it will cover this repair.
Is there a TSB for this? If you had this done at the dealer, how much did it cost to repair? Would you attempt the repair yourself? I've taken the dash apart to find the problem, but then determined it might be too involved for me to do and I wasn't comfortable disconnecting the air bags.....
Was on my way to get an oil change at my buddies shop. Started hearing a clicking sound. My climate controls no longer will respond. the Auto button is lit up but I can't turn the air off. I get hot air from the vents. When the clicking does stop the system goes back to working order. My friend checked it out and says the clicking is from the blend door motor.
View 6 Replies2008 F-350 Lariat, 6.4L, dual climate control. The passenger side blows ONLY hot air whereas driver side seems to blow whatever is called for. Is it right to assume this is the passenger side actuator, and this actuator is the "easy" one to replace (i.e. not pulling dash)? I read in another thread that there might be a question on determining the correct one to replace, so therefore I ask for clarification. How to verify if my assumption wrong?
View 4 RepliesWent into town earlier and the a/c was not blowing out the 2 passenger side vents. Could switch to defrost and it would blow correctly. The rear is working as well. The drivers side vents blow good and if you cover those with your hands to block them off its like it forces air to blow out the passenger vents. Could this be a blend door issue?
View 2 RepliesMy 2003 mountaineer 4.6L has front and rear heat. The issue is the heat in the front is barely warm and the heat in the back is poor. I have replaced the blend doors front and back and I'm sure they work as I can go from cold to barely warm and back again when I change the temperature setting.
I can feel hot fluid going from the engine to the front heater core and also down under the vehicle to the rear when the vehicle is warm. The return on the front is almost cold - so heat is being given up by the heater core in front, but it seems to me that if the return is almost cold, there's not enough hot coolant delivery. The overall heat is very poor in the cabin.
The coolant temperature gauge is steady and just below 1/2 with no erratic movements. I flushed the front heater core a couple years ago. Coolant has also been flushed last year. I know that the heat is underpowered in this vehicle, but it's a far cry from when it was new.
Dad has a 97 F150 with some heater issues. He put a new potentiometer in and it didn't work. We he turns the dial to cold, it still blows hot air. Defrost =hot, vent=hot, a/c=warm etc.....
The dealership told him that the blend door might be stuck. My question is, how hard is this to fix? Is it something that I can just stop by after work and quickly fix. What is involved in fixing this and where it is?
Compressor clutch engages, lines are cold, when it works air is cold. A/C guy thinks the blend door isn't working right, is it vacuum operated or electric?
View 3 Replies2008 F-250 Lariat with EATC climate controls... My truck suffers from the knocking/buzzing/clicking that is apparently associated with faulty blend door actuators. I have been putting off getting them replaced because of the hefty price tag associated with tearing apart the dash and whatnot that is required to get to the lower actuator that sits right on the transmission tunnel. Anyhow, today was the first day I really needed A/C and it just wasn't cold. Cool yes, but not cold. Is there a way to determine if this is a function of the blend door(s) not doing their thing versus the system A/C needing a repair/recharge? I don't have access to any A/C equipment myself, how to determine if it's a blend door issue?
View 3 RepliesMy actuator/motor doesn't have the screws that hold it on. It's just clipped down. Can I just pry it up & off with out it breaking the clips that hold it down? It's a 97 Ranger.
View 2 RepliesHaving issues with the blend door on the AC system. I will have it on AC or MAX AC. I will have it on the setting to be point out of the dash at me. It occasionally will switch to the defrost windshield setting. I can hear the blend door moving and changing from chest level to the windshield.
View 12 RepliesQuestion: blend doors clicking even when the key is removed from the ignition? Mine clicks for quite awhile after I turn off the truck (probably 10 mins or so, I haven't stuck around to see when it finally stops) Asking out of curiosity....and this thread may put some people at rest down the line.
I do love this truck and I don't mind working on it at all. The Blend doors allow me to paint the dash trim with Bright Aluminum Plastidip.
Leaky T coolant connector which I don't mind.....wanted to switch out to a 170 degree thermostat (SSI Tuned and South Texas Heat) and do a coolant flush anyways. Might as well hammer it all out. No biggs.