Scion - Xd :: Why All Electrical Power Gone
Feb 4, 2015
Tonight I returned home after almost two hours in traffic only to find out that I needed to run one more errand before enjoying my evening. Within ten minutes I was back in my 2009 Scion xD, but after unlocking it remotely with the button on my key, sitting in the car and turning the key, nothing happened. I mean, nothing. No dome light, no familiar car starting noises, no dash lights... I tried again, and again, but as they say, insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different result.
I'm looking for some insight into what might have caused my little car to so suddenly become so dull and unresponsive. After all, I just spent some time in it, and it was still warm. The remote unlock seems to have been the last electrical thing it would do, and the same button and even the rocker switch on the door wouldn't lock or unlock the car after that. The headlights didn't work, either and a quick check under the hood found nothing obviously wrong with the battery. I also confirmed that I didn't leave the headlights or dome light on, even for those ten minutes.
The battery is only a few months old and the catalytic converter is only a few months older than that - I was having problems with the car losing charge after only a few minutes without the engine on, so the dealership replaced the catalytic converter for free under the extended warranty, but that didn't seem to solve the problem, so I replaced the battery (not free), and while I haven't given it a "test" to see if I could get it to die (now that it's winter and less convenient to do so), it seemed to be doing better (I can get through a fill at the gas station with my radio on without needing a jump!).
This car was also repaired a month ago after a rear-end collision on the highway by a shop I consider to be excellent, and anyway I wouldn't expect rear-end damage to matter, but there it is for full disclosure. This happened after the battery was replaced.
Also, this is winter in Boston. We just received our third foot of snow on the ground a few days ago and it is 14F right now. I drove all over the place, making six successful trips in the car today.
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My 1999 Ford Ranger XLT, 6 cylinder, auto trans, with 134K miles has an electric problem. When I turn the key to the 'on' position, all dash lights show normal, headlights work, radio plays, etc. But when I turn the key to the 'start' position, all electric power is lost. The power remains lost until I disconnect and reconnect the battery ground wire. After reconnecting, I again have power until the key is turned to the 'start' position. I was able to jump start the truck, so I assumed I needed a new battery. I bought one a week ago, and was back to normal until today. The truck started, I drove 4 miles to the grocery store, and then I found myself back to square 1 (i.e., the no-start situation).
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This is getting expensive fast, and they haven't even actually diagnosed the problem! Also the radiator fans don't seem to power on either.
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i have a 200 echo when i got it it would buck and loose power almost (but never) stall... then pick back up fast... driving 10 miles could result in whiplash it starts and idles fine not a skip... after looking though some online threads (btw: no CEL) i changed the air filter looked for vacuum leaks cleaned the MAF little better but still crappy changed the spark plugs again a little better but not even close to ok..
NOW CEL is on says too rich... changed MAF Much improvement but still bucks i went to toyota dealer they said no signal from air/fuel sensor.. changed it still no improvement but the fuel mileage is way better still bucks and sputters but is better at low speeds if i turn off the O/D and when the blue temp light is on, which i think does the same thing as turning off the O/D
if its idling no skips no vibration raise RPM's and it gets rough to a point raise it further and it keeps getting worse. I have a clogged filter or a TPS issue.
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My 2002 Echo Sportivo is losing power on hills,which is bad news as live in a hilly district. If I don't get a run up i.e lights change it's 40km/h all the way with my foot to the floor and lots of angry drivers behind me. Apart from this runs well?
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info on changing the drive and power steering belts. I recently changed them on a 2003 Echo and took some pictures.
There are 2 belts on the Echo engine. A drive belt and a power steering belt. In order to remove the power steering belt you must, first, remove the main drive belt. If changing one it may be best to change both.
First remove right front wheel. Use jack stands to support the vehicle. Do not rely on a jack to hold it up. Next remove the passenger side front bumper cover. I feel it best to remove the cover as then you can do a test drive before enclosing everything. You can, if you wish, just lower cover to give access to the drive belts. With the cover removed, check the power steering pulley and make sure that you have access to the adjusting bolt. This bolt is accessed thru an opening in the pulley. See last picture.
Here are 2 pictures of the bumper cover installed and removed.
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I am looking to troubleshoot the problem I am having with my 2000 Toyota Echo Automatic with 253,000 Kms
Engine will at times bog down, loose power and skip, usually giving it more gas will straighten it out. Car is now stalling after driving and stopping unless you rev the rpms higher. The car will start in my driveway and idle with no problems however sometimes it will skip after a few minutes.
Codes I keep getting is P0171 Fuel too lean bank 1 and P0301 cylinder 1 misfire (for cylinder 3 before we cleared the codes)
Here is what I have done as I am lucky enough to have a 2000 Echo so we could switch some parts for testing:
Switched the coils, spark plugs and MAF sensor (didn't look dirty) What concerns us is when you unplug coil 1 from the engine there is no change in the idle (as there is a difference when unplugging the other coils)
We have checked for vacuum leaks but cannot find any.
Should also mention the engine is not overheating or burning oil.
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I have a toyota yaris d4d (2002). My engine light comes on, I lose power on throttle but engine will still idle. I turn engine off for a few minutes, then restart, I then carry on driving as normal as if nothing has happened. This happens every 2 weeks. Error code is p1121(accelerator pedal position sensor range/performance problem). How to rectify it ...
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I am on my third EGT gauge. My mechanic installed it as per "auto meter" specifications. He told me, the only reason he could find that the gauges have been failing is low voltage output. I have an onboard compressor for my airbag suspension and every time I start my vehicle it runs to fill up the air system. The voltage drops to 11.1V. It comes up once all is running and the compressor quits. is there any such thing as surge/brownout protection for these systems?
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Blower, seats, locks, blinkers stopped simultaneously, abs and airbag light came on. The internet suggested it was the ignition switch, I changed it to no avail. The horn, wipers, 4-way flashers, headlights, taillights, and brake lights all work. Is my wife correct in suggesting we replace this 140,000 mile pile of rust?
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Driving on friday night, started to hear at idle the car rpms wavering. Drove home fine with no issues other than at idle. Then Sunday, drove the vehicle, and sometimes had issues when accelerating, seemed to misfire and lose power. Then when driving that day it died completely and wouldn't start. It turns, but no firing.
Got it towed to my place, ran the codes, showed 1300, 1305, 1310, and 1315. All to do with ignition coils. Did a quick spark check, and no spark at any cylinders. I figured it would be weird that all 4 would go at the same time, so i replaced the ECM instead. Still no spark. Where to go next? Also the car does have an immobilizer in it...that could be causing it to malfunction?
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I was driving home and I lost power in my engine. When I gave it gas you can hear it miss fire and loose power I got it home and it starts and idles but not smooth. What should I be looking into at this point? I'll check the coils and plugs now but I'm not sure after that. I heard about a bad ecu but it still runs so idk.
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My car now has a little over 370,000 miles on her. The other day I noticed a hesitation while accelerating, like an instant loss of power/ jerk. It didn't do it much at first and the higher the RPM's the less it seemed to do this. Once I got the car up to 60/70 mph it was pretty much unnoticeable.
What it was. Thought maybe a vacuum leak. Nope. Maybe a bad TPS or CPS (didn't end up checking those), Thought maybe a bad injector or O2 sensor (didn't end up checking those either). I did try some fuel injector cleaner though but saw no change. I had a feeling it had to be a sensor or something because the motor itself runs great other than the intermittent misfire.
So I drive it in to work this morning. (1 hour drive each way) and aside from the minor hesitation/bucking/jerking while accelerating, everything went pretty smooth so long as I had the car up to highway speeds. So I get off from work and start driving home. The problem seemed to have disappeared completely for the first 3 or 4 miles, then all of a sudden it started up again. Only this time it had gotten much worse.
I could no longer get the car to go over 70mph and when I came to a stop the car sounded like it wanted to die (but never did). It took forever from a complete stop to get past all of the sputtering and hesitation/missing to get the car up to speed. It would keep cutting in and out (the motor bogging down, then gaining normal power for a second or two and so on and so forth). So I decide to take it to a shop to see if they can diagnose it.
The guy hooks up his code reader and looks at the car for a little bit out in the parking lot. All he could do was suggest to change the spark plugs and said that that was where he would start. So I went ahead and listened to what he said about the spark plugs (even though I knew there wasn't anything wrong with them because I had just changed them about a year ago). So I'm changing them out and when I take out cylinder 1's coilpack I notice it's wet. It seems somehow water or moisture had gotten down into there. So I dried everything off and changed the plug (the old one looked fine but I changed it anyway) and I went ahead and changed out all the rest of the plugs too (they all looked fine as well)
So after seeing the water around the #1 spark plug and coil pack, The injectors are right in front of there, so I decided to take the plug off the injector and take a look.
Sure enough, I took the plug off of the injector right in front of the #1 spark plug (far left spark plug) and wouldn't you know it, it had water down inside of it. I pulled the plug off of the injector next to it and it had water in it too (but not as much). How water could have gotten down in there but it did. I took a Q-tip and used it to dry up all the water down in there. Put everything back together and took it for a spin and everything was back to normal.
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Recently my car a 01 echo has been randomly losing power and accelerating slowing. Sometimes if I let off on the gas pedal and reapply it, it clears up and runs fines. There are no check engine lights and no codes stored. car has 213k miles on it.
I had replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, both o2 sensors and cat, have noticed a break behind the resonator could this be causing it?
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My beloved 1995 Dodge Ram Van has intermittent dash panel electrical issues. The gas gauge an speedometer are intermittent, coupled with lights and radio on off too. It It all started when I had the transition services years ago. It has less than 100k mileage.
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My 2003 Camry XLE 4-cyl has a serious intermittent problem.
Occasionally, when I insert the key into the ignition switch and turn to ON position, the whole car has no electrical power - including radio, fan, windows, and the whole dashboard just went black ! Starter won't turn. At this point if I just tap slightly on the brake pedal once, electrical power would instantly come back and everything works normal again (car starts, radio, fan working again). This problem would continue to persist randomly. I found that every time when this happens, if I clean the positive battery post/clamp, the problem goes away for 1-2 months then it come back again. I have been repeating this routine for over a year until recently I replaced the battery and the new positive clamp.
The problem has not come back until now (about 9 months since battery change). This time, the problem became a real safety issue. It happened while driving ! Engine just died, everything blackout inside the car. I had to put it in neutral and let it cruise, tapped on the brake pedal slightly to get electrical power back, then started the car and go again.
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Ok so here's the deal my woman stopped at a gas station and when she got back into the car, it wouldn't start. Since then I have replaced the battery and started to check fuses ( but w no real guide to what fuses work what its hard to figure things out ) I have found 4 fuses that are marked engine but only 2 of them have power (and yes the 2 fuses that aren't working are good fuses not broken) . I have pulled the bottom of the dash apart but what relay goes to what so I'm at a loss...
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Today I was taking me sister to a DR appointment. I believe I turned off the car when I got back in the car was dead. There was no electrical power,not lights horn etc. I took the key out and in multiple time nothing. I got out raise the hood and look about but nothing suspicious stood out. Previously on an intermittent basis sometimes when I got into start the car the clock was off by about 2 hours and all the radio presets were gone. This is a 2013 Coupe with manual transmission. Finally I remembered a similar situation I had with a Saab I had. I got in and rolled the car a bit in neutral and popped the clutch with no key in it. When I tried the key it came started as usual.
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