Subaru - Forester :: 2003 - Hesitating When Shift And Accelerate / Clutch Replacement?
Nov 1, 2013
My car is hesitating when I shift and accelerate, and revving up the tach after I shift into 5th but the speed doesn't match.Also, in order to start the car I have to press the clutch practically all the way to the floor.
It has 53,000 miles on it. I took it to the dealer, and they said I need the clutch and possibly flywheel replaced.
This seems low mileage to me. I have driven a stick for over 31 years. My previous car was a Honda CRXsi and it was over 110,000 miles before I needed a new clutch.
Is a clutch replacement this early normal for this car? Or is it me? I don't think I ride the clutch.
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The other day my 2003 Subaru Forester was getting its oil changed and when it was done the mechanic informed me that my struts were leaking and needed to be replaced. He didn't seem to think it was urgent or anything. He mentioned something about roll overs and the wearing of the tires, but I'm not entirely sure what this means for the car. It has 140K on it, and I drive it a lot on the high way. I'm also planning to go on a trip in Mid July that's about a thousand mile drive. So, how soon should this be done? What do leaking struts mean for a car?
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I have a 10 year old 2003 Subaru Forester in "very good" condition....except that the transfer clutch assembly is starting to make noise and the repair shop (at the dealer) says, housing has to be replaced also. The car has 130K miles and has had all its regular maintenance for 10 years. The only major mechanical problem we've had are the head gaskets (which on this year's model were NOT part of the recall). Those were fixed 2 years ago. Some of what I see in the online chatter about transfer clutches suggests that this is a slippery slope and the next thing you know there's the "next thing" that needs to be worked on. We were hoping that the 2014 Forester would get really good mileage (this one got 30 when it was younger) but we hear it will only be 32 mpg so we're inclined to "keep waiting" if this car can be kept happy. Is a transfer clutch repair a big deal?
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I recently purchased a 2013 forester and noticed a slight shudder in the car once I start to accelerate but it only lasts until I hit 20mph or so then disappears. The salesman tried telling me it was a normal subaru characteristic and being new to AWD and subaru I was a suckered and listened to him but after owning the car for a week it's more noticeable than when I first drove the car off the lot. I'm not sure if its the tires out of balance or my half shafts or possibly drive shafts are screwy.
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It happens when I accelerate from 10MPH up to about 70MPH and then is intermittent at higher speeds. The volume and pitch of the whine is constant the whole time I am accelerating. If I brake while accelerating the noise does not change. It is a very high pitched noise almost to the point of being out of range for the ear to hear. The noise is so high pitched that it is hard to determine exactly where it is coming from except I fell like it is behind me. Cornering doesn’t seem to make a difference. I hear it most when I start my commute getting onto the freeway, I have also heard it when I do stop and go while running errands.
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I recently had the clutch replaced on my 2001 Subaru, now the clutch pedal is sticking, could this be related to the clutch replacement or is this something else? I didn't have such a great experience with the mechanic that did the work so I don't trust him to tell me truthfully whether it's possibly a warranty issue or not. The problem happens intermittently. I'll push down on the pedal and when I release it it will only come back up half way. If you tap it with you toe it pops right up. Doesn't seem to impact the functioning on the vehicle.
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When my 06 Forester was still under warrantee I brought it to the dealer to diagnose a "stutter" in the transmission after I had slowed down to about 10mph to turn onto a street and started to accelerate. They could not find anything wrong and so I have lived with it until recently when I decided to try the local tranny shop that has a good reputation. They could not find any problem although at first they thought it might be engine related (mass air flow sensor), but that was ok.
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I have a 2007 Subaru Forester X Sport Model. I just passed 86,000 miles - much of that open road driving. My head gaskets need to be replaced. This seems somewhat early. I recently switched from using regular motor oil to a synthetic blend that the dealership suggested. Is there any history suggesting that switching lubricants might cause the head gaskets to deteriorate?
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I have a regular mechanic that I use, except for a recent plug change. The car now feels like it is shifting awkwardly, and at speeds of between 15-25 MPH, it's as if it has a hard time choosing a gear. Can improperly installed plugs have an impact on this sort of thing?
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Replaced original clutch on Subaru Forester at approx. 130,000 miles because of slipping. Drove car for a few days and clutch would judder once warmed-up when trying to engage 1st gear. Took car back to repair shop, they said pressure plate was defective/set too stiff and replaced that. Whole car now shudders when trying to engage in 1st gear once the car has warmed-up and particularly on (even a slight) hill. What's not working correctly? Seen some discussion on throw-out bearings, master/slave cylinders and oil on clutch. Unsure.
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My Forester was dead one morning and when I went to jump it off my pick-up in a hurry I did the age old palm to forehead and didn't pay close attention to the posts on my pick-up battery. Crossed the posts.So I began working through the common known issues.Replaced the main fuse. Didn't Start.Replaced the battery. Started... Car shut off while driving. Did not sputter out, simply cut out like turning the key off.Started right back up.Positive battery cable was loose. Replaced it.Grounds are good.Alternator output is good.So here are some more details on the car shutting off.
This last time as I was coming home from the store and the car shut off on the main road through town. I had enough momentum to get off to the side of the road. I tried to start it and it would turn over. Normal turn over sound but the car wouldn't start. I took a minute to check other electrical things in the car with key in the "on" position. Radio worked. Dome/interior lights worked. But then I noticed something strange. None of the dash lights came on (Car is not started but key is in "on" position). The windows did not work either.It started after about 5 minutes time and I made it home, forgot to roll the windows back up. Turned key to "on" again and couldn't roll the windows up. Got out of the car and came back after about 5 minutes, turned key to "on" and the dash lights came on the windows rolled up.
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My car is making a sort of whining noise; it sounds like some sort of tire noise, but I checked the tires and don't see anything that could be problematic. My husband checked to see if anything was rubbing, and doesn't find anything. The car is quiet when it is not moving, and the noise gets somewhat louder and slightly higher-pitched as I accelerate. It almost seems like the noise changed on a different road surface, but again, I don't see anything different with the tires. The car has about 140-150,000 on it. The noise has only been noticeable for a couple of weeks. No other problems, no change in steering or handling. No incident that I can think of that could have been a catalyst.
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I have a '05 Forester XT with 135,000 miles, I purchased the car new and have always performed regular maintenance and oil changes. The car is my baby.On a recent freeway drive I heard a "pop" followed what sounded like a shredding accessory belt. This went on for several miles with diminishing power. There was zero smoke from the exhaust. I managed to coax it into the nearest Subaru dealership. They diagnosed a bad AVCS solenoid, with P0011 error code. They charged me $2200.00 to change the solenoid and clean all the oil feed lines! While they were at it, I had them clean the banjo bolts to the turbo, as this had never been done. The engine was removed from the vehicle for them to complete the work.
Today I went to pick it up, it started right up and idled fine. When I pulled onto the highway and accelerated TONS of blue smoke billowed from the exhaust and it had zero power. Before this the car burned one quart of oil every 3,000 miles. I turned around and the car is now back at the dealership.I'm at a loss as to what to do. The car is not driveable at this point.I hate to point fingers, but what could the dealership have done to cause this excessive oil smoke? Again, the car NEVER smoked before the dealership got a hold of it.
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Have a 2000 Forester with 114K. Had to replace driver's rear wheel bearing at 100k & again at 110k; when replacement bearing started to fail, ABS light came on because wheel was not spinning true! Replaced passenger's rear wheel bearing at 105k (this one is getting noisy now).
Hard to believe I got 2 "bum' bearings! Not a difficult repair, but this will be 4 bearings in less than 2 years. The car's driven on paved roads & with little load, so it's not from harsh road conditions or heavy loads.
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Well I just bought my first car about 3 weeks ago, its been in the shop for 2 of those weeks after I discovered that I needed several repairs. The car cost 3300. Anyways I got screwed by the sketchy guy who sold me the car. To get back to the point, the car had transmission problems and did not make a puff noise before the repairs. It creates this sound sometimes on acceleration, slowing, shifting, and pushing in the clutch. It has almost a 100% chance of making this puff when starting the car up. What the problem is? 1999 Impreza Outback....
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1998 Subaru Forester with a weird clutch problem. Clutch works fine in cold weather, but for the last 3 summers when driving in city traffic, the clutch gets spongy and starts to catch lower and lower to the floor. Car has about 125,000mi bought it 2 years ago and don't know when or if the clutch was ever replaced.
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Just the other day I got the clutch replaced on my 06 WRX. I took it to a reputable workshop that I've dealt with before. When I got it back the clutch pedal feels very soft and goes to the floor with ease, whereas before it was a lot harder and felt good. It works good and dosen't slip but just a soft pedal. I also went for the OEM replacement and not aftermarket. Some of the google searches I've read say the pedal will get harder after about 1000-2000 km.
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I had the car worked on a while back. They replaced the clutch and the viscous coupling in the transmission. ('03 Subaru Legacy manual transmission) Things seemed fine, then I realized my reverse light was acting like it was going out. Fuses are fine. A while later the car decided the clutch didn't need to respond as smoothly. Then: "Nope, you're funny to think you can drive me. I'm not budging." The car started grinding gears. I have to slam it into gear for it to work so I can drive it home and let it sit. The car will go into gear when off, no problem. New fluid has been put in. Bled. Then some sort of SUPER LUBE was put in and it still grinds. What might be happening? I really don't have the fundage in order to buy a new car at this time. But at the same time I hate feeling like I'm chasing a rabbit down a hole..
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I have a 2003 Forester that has low air flow thru the vents if you try to use the AC or heater.
If you turn the speed from 1-4 you can hear the blower fan turning faster but the air coming out of the vents is very low. YOu can hardly feel it. I checked to see if there was a cabin filter and there was none.
Even though you can barely feel the air coming out, when on AC the air feels cold and when on heat it feels hot.
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I have a 2003 Subaru forester w/ 148k and manual transmission. Recently I have notice two new symptoms, but am not sure if they are connected. First is some bluish exhaust just at startup. Second is a wining sound out of the front of the engine. It fluctuates in time with the rpm. When I pop the hood it sounds like it may by coming from the generator or AC unit which has a wired red powdery substance on it. The wining seem worse for the first 1/2 hr of driving.
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I recently bought an automatic 2003 Subaru Forester 2.5x. Great car but....... There is an intermittent problem with the automatic shift stick. It locks "Parking" mode. When I put the key in and put my foot on the brake, The dash lights up, radio turns on everything is alight but the car won't start. It locks "Parking" mode. I am forced to over ride the lock system by inserting a key into the slot on the right hand side of the stick, putting it into neutral then I can start the car. Its been to the garage three times and is scheduled for a forth visit. Because its an intermittent problem that never happens when they have it in the garage they are having a devil of a time sorting out the problem.
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