I have a 99 Forester L. My headlights, taillights, fog lights and dash lights don't work. checked all fuses both under hood and on driver side. Relays are fine bulbs are good as well as switch its self.
View 1 Repliesheadlights on 2001 Forester not working. I checked the fuses ,bulbs and they look good. The highbeams,taillights,and interior lights all work. I do hear the relays click when I turn on the switch.
View 1 RepliesBoth rear signal lights are out, so are brake lights. Driving lights work, so are high beam lights and all front turn signal lights. What should I check? I have done some research, but I could not locate the fuse or the relay flasher for my 2004 Malibu Maxx.
View 18 RepliesI have a 2010 Subaru Forester past warranty. I remove the key from the ignition switch and open the door I get the chime and the doors will not lock with the remote. If I pull the key out rapidly it usually works okay. The Subaru garage wants to replace all locks to fix the problem. That seems excessive to me.
View 1 RepliesI have 04 6.0 with 247,000 on it. Just rebuilt all 8 injectors 3 months ago been running great since then. Jump into my truck yesterday morning go to turn the key over and all the lights on the dash came on for a second then they were off same with the fuel pump I only heard it for a second before turning off. The truck won't crank at all. My windows work, radio works and cab lights work. My headlights are out and my cab charm is not making any sound. I've check all my relays and fuses nothing bad there I've also replace my ignition switch and the ignition it self is good. I'm think it's a bad ground some where I just need finding the right one.
View 14 RepliesI recently tried to install some LED bulbs in my ride. And they all worked except the map lights in the front. I removed them all and now no lights work when I open my doors except my foot wells.. Any one know whats up?
View 7 RepliesJust wondering if it's my car or does Subaru have a light issue going on with the 2011 Legacy's??
I bought my car 1/31/11 (so I'm still under warranty... barely) but here is my history with bulb replacement:
3/22/12 -- 14,251 miles -- driver side headlamp out
6/27/12 -- 17,322 miles -- passenger side headlamp out
6/19/13 -- 27,783 miles -- driver side headlamp out (although was taken in for a passenger side, side marker light)
7/16/13 -- 28,987 miles -- passenger side marker light out (the one that they didn't replace on 6/19/13)
1/22/14 -- 33,759 miles -- driver side head lamp and side marker out
Six bulbs in under 3 years???? Granted these have all be replaced under warranty but the next one won't be despite the fact it's an ongoing issue and that concerns me. I know I'm spoiled because I had a 2002 Honda before the Subaru and in 12 years (mom is now driving it) and 100+k miles I've replaced 1 burnt out bulb.
The check engine comes on and goes off intermittently. Because it was not on when the situation was checked the diagnostic scan did not show a problem. I have noticed that the gas cap has been extraordinarily tight on two occasions and after the car was refueled, the light went out when it was supposed to when the car was restarted. Today the light came on, but the cap was just normally snug. The car has been scrupulously maintained. It is a 2001 model with 145,000 on the odometer. No other problems are evident.
View 6 Replies2003 Subaru Forester automatic non-turbo. Vehicle stalls out at long red lights. No sputter, shudder, or warning. Idle just drops to zero. May happen twice in one day or once in two or three months. No rhyme or reason. Runs great otherwise. No drivability issues until I am stopped. I replaced the idle air control (IAC) solenoid valve last week and thought I cured the problem. But the vehicle cut out on my wife while she was stopped, waiting to yield into traffic this evening.
View 13 RepliesOut of the blue, our Headlights and Parking Lights would not switch on. Checked the fuses--OK. Tested the Relays--OK. Tried a used switch from my mechanic--no change. In the course of doing that, the Parking Lights came on and would not turn off. Tried disconnecting battery, locking/unlocking with the remote and starting it with the remote--no effect. Had to remove lightswitch 20A fuse to turn the P-lights off. Signals still work ok--with either switch. The car does have a HarmonKardon satellite radio which I've never used but have to turn off every time I start the car. I believe it has some sort of security system which annoyingly flashes a red button which sticks out of the dash.
View 1 RepliesMy car horn starts honking and the lights start flashing, spontaneously. The neighbors are going to kill me if I don't die of sleep deprivation first. The problem started a few minutes after 6 a.m. yesterday, and stopped when I turned the car on I left the car running in the driveway (illegally) and then cut it off after about 30 minutes, and all was quiet until around 8:45 a.m., when it started again. The only way I can get it to stop is to press the UNLOCK button on the car's remote; but that doesn't make it quit for good, sometimes only makes it quit for a few seconds.
Anyway, I drove the car to work and it was nice and quiet all day. (I went by the mechanic's on the way to work and had to set an appt. for Monday but I don't think I can stand it until then. This morning the honking/flashing began at 1:52 a.m. I pushed the remote. It stopped until 2:08. It kind of went like that until I finally started up the car. It is now emitting carbon and I am a zombie. What can I disable or override until a mechanic can take care of this? Is it a mechanical problem? A goofed-up sensor? Is this tied to a computer chip problem?
My High beams for a 2003 cavalier are not working. I checked the bulbs and they are good, The Low Beams Work and my drls work. I switch from low to high and the blue indicator on the cluster panel comes on.
View 5 RepliesMy running/tail lights and my dashboard lights don't work. Every other light works though(low/high beams, reverse, break). I don't know much about cars but My neighbor just put in a new relay and the running lights worked fine for about a week. Then the dashboard lights started flickering on & off for a day or two & now I don't have dashboard or running lights at all.
View 1 Replies2007 5.4 . Starts good , idles all day. As soon as you try to rev it, it stumbles rattles etc. Shut it off, wait a second, restart then Idles fine. I watched live Data and it carries on when the VVT solenoids become active (above 800 rpm).There duty cycle goes to 60-70 percent while revving. I think it Is just one side of the engine. Could be VVT solenoids sticking on? yes ? No?
View 3 RepliesThis is for a 2000 Silhouette, yet I see there's lots more traffic for the Venture, so thought I'd start here first.
Backup lights don't light, when minivan put into reverse. b/up fuse ok (engine bay, #27), bulbs ok (swapped with new lights, and switched with turn lights, to confirm).
The circuit board is a potential, yet hard to believe that out of 8 bulbs, only 2 would go, and that would be 1 on each side, and only the reverse lights (not the marker, stop, or turn). Will go at it with a multi-meter, to see if there's current, for the next step.
Searches show that it could be the gear position sensor, stuck with what part this would be, and where this part would be. Would this be a pin-to-ground physical sensor, a gear position sensor by the transmission, something linked to the gear selector arm, etc? And once found, is this something that is replaced, or adjusted (imagine the reverse lights going on, when in neutral!)? Still looking for info, on that one.
In some areas, the internal PTC cabin heaters were missing the relays and didn't work. They mentioned that the relays were in the glove box and that they easily installed them manually. There were no relays in my glove box, but I couldn't be sure if they were installed. So I took a picture of my "relays and fuses box" for someone with experience to examine. Are the PTC heater relays installed in my car?
Full resolution Dropbox link: [URL] .....
I know the alternator needs replacing but why are the fan relays not working correctly. Also, the top radiator hose is really hot? I replaced the thermostat as well as the coolant reservoir? I also replaced a couple of the fan relays from my older wrecked Camry. Would the noisy alt that is going out have something to do w/the fans and fan relays not working properly?
View 6 RepliesMy Excursion recently had all of the door lock actuators replaced, but locking still wouldn't function correctly...everything works fine with both the fob and the door keypad, but when using the door switches it would only lock, not unlock.
I searched for three days trying to find where the door relays were because I knew my actuators were all good....I happened upon a thread on here where a user had my same issue and was asking about relays. Like me he was trying to find out where the relays were, but users kept wanting to tell him to do the foil quick fix on his actuators. Even after he specifically said he was sure it was NOT the actuators, posters kept telling him to focus on the actuators, that there were no relays other than internal to the VSM I think...he finally took it to the stealership and they told him they had replaced one of the power lock relays under the dashboard.
I searched the internet for a couple more days trying to find where those elusive relays were, and all I could find was a generic "under the dash" if even that much--most people kept wanting to point users to the actuators. So for any future readers who want to know where the door lock relays on a 2000 Excursion are located, there are three of them--one for "all doors lock", one for "all doors unlock", and one for "driver's door lock". They are buried in the dashboard, mounted to the firewall upside down behind the radio. The easiest access to them is from the floorboard to the right of the accelerator pedal.
You'll need to remove the knee panel under the steering wheel that covers the fuse box; then remove the rubbery lower wiring cover below it that's held in place by 3 or 4 pf the phillips head push-pins; then in the lower right of the opening where you removed the knee panel (look just above the accelerator pedal), find and remove the single gold 7mm screw that holds the driver's footwell air diverter in place, and remove the air diverter. Then lay on your back in the drivers floorboard and look up to where would be directly behind and just below the radio--you'll see a small (2"x6") rectangular black cover facing down that hides the relays, held on with a clip at each end. Pop the cover off, and you'll see the three relays. I'm not sure what order they are in. In my case, I was intending to make sure the relay was my problem by having what was functioning change when I swapped relays....apparently my problem was a poor connection on one of the relays because everything started working perfectly and has worked fine since.
I have a 2000 legacy wagon (245k miles) that has a light issue. The running lights and low beam lights do not work and the dash parking break light will not go out. Earlier I had just the low beams not working. They were both blown and I replaced them about two weeks ago. Now they are out again and the dash parking break light stays on. I checked the fuzes and they look good.
View 8 RepliesMy 99 Subaru Legacy Outback has an issue w/ the air/vent/defroster selections. The lights sometimes don't lite up and when that happens, the selection doesn't work. It sounds like the fan is working but the air is not coming out. If it's a vacuum leak, can I fix it by finding a leaky hose or is it an involved process?
View 1 RepliesMr Squeaky is a 2003 Subaru Legacy
Here are the signs and symptoms that my car wants to die. The car makes sound like grinding metal after I drive it for a good 10-15 miles. It starts up when I turn to the right. It does not seem to matter how slight the turn to the right is but it seems to not start up until I head in that direction a little bit. Once it gets going, it does not stop, and squeals incessantly. I can make it stop by putting my foot on the brakes but the noise almost always starts right back up as soon as I take my foot off the brake. Speed of travel seems to have no effect on this noise. If I park my car for 5 min and then drive away, again the noise normally goes away. My heat gauge never goes into the oh crap zone, and my mechanics swear my brakes are good.