I have a 2000 legacy wagon (245k miles) that has a light issue. The running lights and low beam lights do not work and the dash parking break light will not go out. Earlier I had just the low beams not working. They were both blown and I replaced them about two weeks ago. Now they are out again and the dash parking break light stays on. I checked the fuzes and they look good.
View 8 RepliesI drive a 96 Subaru Legacy. What does it mean when one of the high beams is dimmer (less light output) than the low beam? I am using a brand-new bulb. It's not an adjustment issue because I was looking at the bulb when it was outside of the housing and it clearly gets dimmer when you switch to brights. However, they are equally bright when on low-beam, so I don't think its just a crossed wire.
View 2 RepliesWhen I turn my engine off and remove the key from the ignition, my front and back parking lights remain on. So every time I turn off my car I have been disconnecting the negative post so the lights turn off. How do I resolve this? 1998 Subaru Legacy Outback....
View 4 RepliesMy running/tail lights and my dashboard lights don't work. Every other light works though(low/high beams, reverse, break). I don't know much about cars but My neighbor just put in a new relay and the running lights worked fine for about a week. Then the dashboard lights started flickering on & off for a day or two & now I don't have dashboard or running lights at all.
View 1 RepliesLast week, the brake, traction control, cruise, and check engine lights all came on my dash. All but check engine were flashing. The car seemed to be driving fine but cruise would not engage. I drove it to a local mechanic who checked the battery and alternator and reset the computer. He said there was nothing wrong with the car. The next day the lights started flashing again so I made an appt to take it to another garage. This place said my gas cap needed to be replaced (hence the check engine light) and that my vehicle dynamic module was busted. My dilemma is that since picking the car up 4 days ago, and driving roughly 200 miles since, the lights haven't come back on. My current plan is to wait a bit and see if they do but I'm wondering if there's a chance that the VDM is ok.
View 19 RepliesI replaced the low beam and high beam on my Subaru, now the low beam is very dim and the high beam doesn't work. Careful not to touch the bulb.
View 3 RepliesA friend recently replaced the alternator on my 1991 740 Volvo GL. I got a used one that was a B230FT system, although not sure what that means. I think my 740 GL model is actually a B230F? Anyways, the alternators looked different, the old one was a Denso and didn't have blades. The new one is a Bosch with blades and slightly larger than the original. My friend had to make some modifications to the connections, basically clipping off the end of one of the wires, and exposing the wire so he could connect it to the new alternatlow beam headlights are too dimor.
My car is running, but my to see anything at night so I have to use the brights. And the dash lights, clock, and radio no longer work. The radio does not have "code" on it. It doesn't turn on at all. My mechanic says we have the wrong alternator on there, that the electrical system is different. But other sources said it would work fine. Is this true? Could the wire that he stripped and connected not be fully grounded resulting in these weird electrical failures? I'm still driving the car to work, but it makes me nervous.
My mother in law gave her 1995 Subaru to us last year. She told me not to use the parking brake because the wheels seize up and to drive it often. We did not need a third car and every third day of not driving it the rear wheels would seize up which would require me (once in the snow) to jack the car up, take off the rear wheels, and tap the drum with a large hammer. Doing this would cause a huge mess because of the rust which fell onto the driveway. So recently I told her that the drums, shoes, and most likely the brake lines needed replacing and I would not pay for that as I didn't need the car anyway. Her response was that If I had driven the car every so often then it would have been fine. At which point I raised the safety issue with the braking and so forth which she flat out rejected saying it was fine when she drove it. Now I'm being blamed for the problems with her old neglected car. Should I just have the thing towed away or try and get it fixed?
View 18 RepliesI have a 1990 Subaru Legacy AWD wagon with almost 300,000 miles. After driving it for almost any length of time (long enough to bring it up to operating temperature) I'll park it, shut it off, walk away, & about 10 minutes later it will emit a loud squeak from the center rear underside of the car, almost as if something shifts position when the car heats up, then shifts back when its cooling off.
View 1 RepliesMy 2005 Legacy GT(151k) developed an AC issue. Sometimes it simply does not work when you start the car. Other times perfectly. I typically shut the climate control off(automatic) as I cannot stand hot air blowing on me. I have found it does kick on sometimes latter in drive. Or even just works fine.
I got lucky on my Acura MDX 07 with a similar issue but was able to google a known issue with AC clutch relay. It was fixed for $6 relay from Honda dealer. This part seems more expensive on the Subaru (OEM).
Any steps for electrical diagnosis or subie tips? I am convinced it is not refrigerant related (over my head) since the AC works the same as brand new when working.
I have a 2008 Subaru Legacy Spec B. It is a great car, and I am very happy with it. However, it is making this noise and no one can figure out what it is. I have taken it to the dealership three times and the never hear the noise, and they can't find anything wrong.
The noise occurs mostly in parking lots at parking lot speeds. When I got over rough pavement or speed bumps, I get a clunking noise in the front drivers side wheel well. It sounds as if something is broken or loose at the top of the strut, right at the top of the strut tower. I do not hear the noise on smooth roads or at highway speeds. I can get it to happen in certain parking lots, but the dealer would not go to those places.
Recently I started to get another noise out of the same area. When I back down my driveway (slight down hill grade) and I get towards the bottom, I turn the steering wheel clockwise almost all the way so that I back to the right and can pull out to the left. When I get to the bottom at full turn, I hear a loud clunk and I can feel the car shift around a bit. I can repeat this over and over by pulling back in and then backing out again. It only does it when I back up to the right, not to the left. Today, It did it again but I was on a flat surface, which I had not noticed before. I backed to the right, turned the wheels fully to the right, and it clunks. It also clunked two more times when I shifted into first and started to pull forward out of the turn, almost like it was hanging up on something.
The dealer looked at the car three times. The last time they replaced the stabilizer bar links and bushings, but it made no difference. They say everything is tight and looks normal with no leaks. I am thinking it is either a front axle or front strut that is bad, but they can't confirm. The struts are really expensive on this car, so I don't want to replace them on a whim.
Important details: This is a 6 speed manual car. Turbo 2.5L boxer 4. AWD, with 68K miles. Issue was first noticed about August 2011, seems to be getting worse recently.
What this could be. I love this car, as it is a monster in the snow, which will be flying soon, and I really don't want to be driving with something broken.
I noticed my tail light isnt working, so I decided to change the bulb. And bought a 7443LL Sylvania bulb from Oreilly. Fits perfectly but noob that hasnt opened a car before. Old bulb is greyish, I guess its blown out or something. I change both bulb because you buy them in pairs. Anyhow, I thought its the bulb is the problem but now its not. Since both break light and tail are of the same bulb but tail light isnt working. So I figured the bulb isn't the culprit. I called a friend and he says its the fuse. Found the fuse, bought and replace the fuse. I turn on the car, tail light is still not working. Check the new fuse, its blown, put another one, the same thing happen. It keeps blowing my tail light fuse everytime I start the car. Im quite sure I got the right 7443, its dual filament bulb (I can see 4 wires at the base and 2 string that would light up for tail and break.
Is there 2 fuse for the tail light, I only found one by the break pedal, its just below the turn signal/hazard relay.
Today while driving form CT to Maine my 2004 Legacy started making a buzzing sound. It was on the right of the dash near the corner of the windshield. It only happened once we went around 75-80 mph (Mass Pike, we were going with the traffic flow). I called the dealer since I got the car only a month ago. They said they'd have a hard time figuring it out since they can't take it up to that speed. My husband thinks it might be the speedometer cable.
View 3 RepliesToday I had a flat tire. Noticed because the warning light was on. Fixed flat. Tire pressure light is off. Now the brake light is blinking. The cruise indicator is blinking. The skid control light is on and the check engine light is on.
View 3 RepliesHow do you activate the parking lights with the blinker/high beam stalk. It has the P....
View 7 RepliesI have a 2010 prius. I bought the car used a month ago. at the time of purchase both parking lights were on when my headlight is turned on. Now it won't turn on unless I turn on my high beam. Should I take it to Toyota dealer and have them take a look at it. It is certified preowned.
View 4 RepliesJust wondering if it's my car or does Subaru have a light issue going on with the 2011 Legacy's??
I bought my car 1/31/11 (so I'm still under warranty... barely) but here is my history with bulb replacement:
3/22/12 -- 14,251 miles -- driver side headlamp out
6/27/12 -- 17,322 miles -- passenger side headlamp out
6/19/13 -- 27,783 miles -- driver side headlamp out (although was taken in for a passenger side, side marker light)
7/16/13 -- 28,987 miles -- passenger side marker light out (the one that they didn't replace on 6/19/13)
1/22/14 -- 33,759 miles -- driver side head lamp and side marker out
Six bulbs in under 3 years???? Granted these have all be replaced under warranty but the next one won't be despite the fact it's an ongoing issue and that concerns me. I know I'm spoiled because I had a 2002 Honda before the Subaru and in 12 years (mom is now driving it) and 100+k miles I've replaced 1 burnt out bulb.
When my car is off, both the front side lights and the back side lights stay on. What I should do?
View 3 RepliesWhat would cause the vechile to die randomly, while driving? have check all ground wires, coolant, spark plugs, air filter, and changed fuel filter. no check engine lights come on.
View 2 RepliesMy old and often very reliable '93 Subaru's power steering died the other day. I was driving and my engine suddenly started making a deep ticking sound. I pulled over and with it running, popped the hood. The sound was coming from the front of the engine near the visible belts. I decided to keep driving. After about 10 miles that's when the power steering died. Then my battery light and break light came on (which in the past has usually indicated that something is up with the battery or something is drawing from the battery more than it should). THEN I began to smell burnt rubber.
What I want to know is this: my boyfriend says that it's probably the surpentine (sp?) belt or the pump thingy that runs the steering. First, I want to know if I can drive it to the shop or if that is a dangerous thing to do. The steering is really hard but I can still make it work. I'm a grad student and I don't have the money to get a tow, but will will find the money if I have to. Second, is my boyfriend right and will it cost a lot? Again, poor grad student.
Had an issue with "check" engine light turning on and "cruise" control light flashing, intermittently. Dealer said we had dirty oil contaminating some solenoid valves in the system but we had just done an oil change and do so every 3-5K (car has 170K). They recommended switching around the sensors and doing an "oil flush" with another oil change. The warning light problem hasn't recurred, in the past month, since we started giving the gas cap a few extra turns after a fill-up. We're getting ready to buy a new car and don't want to give what might be a serious problem over to the next owner.
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