I have a 2002 Subaru Impreza WRX and recently it started making a squealing noise while the clutch is depressed at low speeds. I've researched that it's likely the pilot bearing or bushing? My questions are: should I have the entire clutch replaced? How much should it cost? And will I cause more problems if I wait too long to do anything? How long can I wait?
View 8 RepliesI recently (1.5 months ago) had my clutch replaced because my clutch pivot ball was making noise and with 70000 miles on the clutch, the mechanic suggested replacing the entire thing. The clutch works beautifully, except that just recently my clutch pedal has started to make a squeak/ creak noise. It's not very loud, although it seems louder when it's particularly hot and muggy. It sounds like it is coming from the pedal and it makes the noise regardless of whether the car is on or off. What might be causing this?
View 3 RepliesJust the other day I got the clutch replaced on my 06 WRX. I took it to a reputable workshop that I've dealt with before. When I got it back the clutch pedal feels very soft and goes to the floor with ease, whereas before it was a lot harder and felt good. It works good and dosen't slip but just a soft pedal. I also went for the OEM replacement and not aftermarket. Some of the google searches I've read say the pedal will get harder after about 1000-2000 km.
View 5 RepliesI'll start out by stating that I failed to get new transmission fluid, which definitely caused the issue. So let's go back to December 26th. Check engine light came on, and I assumed it was for the oil (which has never happened before, suspicious). So I changed the oil, and took it for a test spin. Well, a mile later, I was going up a hill, and the clutch started slipping. Yes, I know, it's an auto, but I know the feeling of a clutch slipping... no power, engine revving up, jolting forward when slip stops. At this point, I drive it home without much incident, a few slips and I part it but don't drive it again. Checked the engine, and transmission fluid was out. Filled it back up, seemed to take care of the problem of slipping, but now there's a new problem...
The new problem is the following. Every once in a while, going uphill or applying full power in first gear, the clutch will slip. Also, this happens 99% of the time, first gear to second gear is a bit of a jolt, not much more than normal, but it's noticeable. And the transmission is kind of loud too, first gear sometimes sounds like there's a marble in there. Is this a rebuild? Will it work itself out?
Well I just bought my first car about 3 weeks ago, its been in the shop for 2 of those weeks after I discovered that I needed several repairs. The car cost 3300. Anyways I got screwed by the sketchy guy who sold me the car. To get back to the point, the car had transmission problems and did not make a puff noise before the repairs. It creates this sound sometimes on acceleration, slowing, shifting, and pushing in the clutch. It has almost a 100% chance of making this puff when starting the car up. What the problem is? 1999 Impreza Outback....
View 3 RepliesMy 2004 Outback power steering was growling and squealing, but it was working ok at the time. I decided to replace the power steering pump before it completely failed and 3 hours later I was done. the growling and squealing was gone. However, when I backed the car out it was hard to steer at first. When I got going it all worked great, until I turned at the corner... hard steering again. When I got around the corner and up to speed everything is great again. The problem did not go away with time. Every time I turn at idle there seems to be no power steering. What is going on?
View 6 RepliesI have a 93 subaru impreza manual that when I turn the key on and push in the clutch it wont turn over. The coolant fans kick on and stay on and so i retrieved the codes and the coolant temp sensor was the dtc so I replaced the sensor and cleared the code but the fans still come on and the engine still does nothing. Also I can gear clicking noises throughout the engine compartment and dont know where its coming from.
View 8 RepliesI've been driving manual transmission vehicles - from my '72 Pinto to big trucks - for 40 years. This happened recently in a VW Golf I had rented: While driving down a mountain in a tunnel in Norway, with the clutch depressed, there was a loud POP noise.The clutch became engaged, and the clutch pedal did nothing. I'll spare you the details of the harrowing aftermath, the language barrier issues in the sticks of Norway and such. In the end, the rental company is charging us a couple thousand bucks for breaking their car. I maintain it was not Driver Error. My local VM service manager indicated that the Slave Cylinder on the Golf has been a problem for years, and is probably what went bad, but - as a rep of VW - is not willing (allowed) to put that in writing. The garage that fixed the Golf indicated it was Driver Error. I'm guessing everything tranny-wise got beat up when the Slave gave out, making it look like I'm a bonafide Clutch Masher.
View 19 RepliesI brought my car to a dealership for its 120,000mi check-up, and they told me that the front axle boots were torn. They replaced the right axle, and on the ride home, I noticed a burning smell. Short story is four return trips, and the right axle replaced three times (including the initial replacement), and the smell has finally gone away. The weird part is not that I went back to the same place four times instead of giving up, it's that they told me this last time that they moved the replacement #2 right axle to the left when they installed replacement #3.
Why would they do that? Why would the smell go away if the issue was with that axle? I looked it up, and the same part is used on the driver's side and passenger side, so it wasn't as though they installed a left axle on the right the first two times. Does this mean the "new" axles were just new-to-me and had been reconditioned? If reconditioned, would it matter if a previously left axle was mounted on the right?
Meanwhile, about six weeks after replacement #2, the car started making a thumping noise when the accelerator was depressed at a speed over 35mph (but not when coasting above 35mph or with the gas on below 30-35). I was wondering if it was misfiring or something, but lo and behold! That noise went away with the axle switching. Way back at replacement #1, they replaced the boot on the left but not the entire axle until #3.
We purchased the vehicle (2013 GX460) in September 2012, and had the car for 6 weeks before my wife was hit by an oncoming car who missed a stop sign. 8 weeks later and 23k of repairable damage to driver fender, front bumper, grille, hood, frame, and all components within those major areas, we received our vehicle.
The vehicle is wonderful and a joy to drive. When the brake pedal is depressed at low speeds (i.e., maneuvering in parking lot, entering driveway), there is a slight vibration to the pedal (similar to the vibration from a cell phone) and a noise that suggests an electric motor is working. The vibration is not like ABS; ABS is a profound vibration. The vibration we experience is very slight. The vibration is not apparent at highway speeds.
I do not recall either the vibration or the noise prior to the accident, and I suspect that this is a result from the accident or from the repairs. I have already brought the GX back to the dealer for this problem and they were quick to dismiss it, but I am really concerned that this is a real problem, and I want the dealer to re-assess.
My 2003 Subaru (about 14 years old, 165K mi) started making a thumping/clicking noise only when I turn right. It had been going on for weeks when I finally I took it to the mechanic, and of course he couldn't hear a thing. He drove it in circles, took the wheel apart, checked an axle boot that he replaced on it last summer, checked the axle. He said that the brakes squeak, but everything is fine. He told me to keep driving it until it gets worse. Didn't charge me anything.
5 days later (today), the noise comes back. Only when I turn right. I also feel a faint vibration below my feet. I drove it to the train station to get to work, put on the parking brake like I always do, but noticed that there was a burning smell from the front end. When it was time to go home, I noticed that there was something funny about the brake pedal. I normally press the brake when I start the engine, and usually it gives. But this time, it didn't and acted like it was stuck. I took my foot off, pressed again, and it was fine. I had also released the parking brake. Driving home, the thumping noise was gone.
Typically, this noise is worse in the morning than it is later in the day when I go home. Can a loose parking brake cable contribute to a thumping noise when turning in one direction, or are these all unrelated problems? I am stumped. Are CV joint issues typically inconsistent like this?
I have a 2011 Tiguan 125TSI with the 7 speed DSG. When it starts cold, you can hear a noise that sounds like a bad gear change when going from 3th to 4th, and 4th to 5th. It almost sounds like changing gears in a manual car without clutch completely depressed. It has been there since I got the car brand new, but recently it seems to be getting worse.
Once the engine gets warm, the sound goes away and gear changes are smooth.
I've asked the VW dealer about the sound and they tell me it is normal. Is this right? The problem is it is very hard to demonstrate to VW the issue since it may happen only once when the engine is cold. I've left it with the dealer overnight and they were able to reproduce it in the morning... but again, they tell me this is normal.
In my 1998 Nissan Frontier I had the clutch replaced at about 115,000 miles. That included a "clutch kit" which included a new throwout bearing. Currently, I'm at only 145,000 miles. Much of that is highway miles.
However, a noise has developed. It's a whirring or humming that happens when the clutch is depressed (disengaged). The noise is not present when the clutch is released in any gear, including neutral.
My first guess would be the throwout bearing, but again, that was replaced only 30,000 miles ago, and plenty of highway miles. The original lasted as long as the original clutch.
My second guess would be the pilot shaft bearing. That was not replaced with the clutch. (So the shop says.)
Any other guesses or advice? No matter the case, is it a problem if I leave it be? I can live with the noise if I know it's not really a problem.
I have a 2014 Passat TDI with a 6 speed manual. When the clutch pedal is depressed between upshifts, there is an audible groaning sound and a vibration in the clutch pedal. The dealer replaced the throwout bearing but the problem persisted. They then replaced the entire transmission and the noise/vibration is still there. The noise follows engine RPM. Is this normal for the TDI powertrain? The dealer had never encountered the noise but they did find another car on the lot with the same noise.
View 2 RepliesI have a subaru impreza 2006 with about 100K miles on it and it makes a chirping noise--which i think might not be coming from the engine or the belts because i had the belts, transmission and stuff all replaced about 8 months ago when i got a tune-up--but I don't know.
The sound most of the time usually happens when i am making a left turn(but sometimes happens while going straight but never in reverse or right turns) while accelerating from a complete stop. However when i take my foot off the accelerator while in motion it the sound stops.
This sound occurs maybe 25-30% of the time. What is going on????
I've got about 88k miles on my 2008 Impreza 2.5i manual. The last 30k miles on it have been rather rough (~60 miles a day stop-and-go highway traffic). Somewhere around 80k I developed a leak in my clutch hydrolic line that lead to a clutch replacement around 82k miles (I had a few leaks simultaneously so diagnosis of the clutch line took longer than optimum). I also had new break pads installed around the same time, tires rebalanced, alignment, and one new ball joint on the front driver-side wheel. Anyways, after this work I had a noise develop that I've had checked out twice and has yet to be diagnosed.
I am getting a grinding noise that occurs with both front breaks but at different, specific, reproducible points in the tire/rotor/etc rotation. It also only occurs with mild break pressure (most noticeable during a gradual, easy deceleration). The frequency changes with speed, so I know it is rotation point specific. Heavy break pressure does not generate the noise. The noise is also the most noticeable after the car has been at rest for a number of hours, and lessens the longer I've been driving continuously (but never goes away completely). I have not noticed much change as a result of moisture, and I live in Colorado so our humidity is at a minimum. I've also had my rotors checked to make sure they aren't warped, and I've been assured that my break system looks good and clean.
I have a 2011 Subaru Impreza 2.5i hatchback with a automatic transmission. When I go between 55 and 65 I hear a buzz saw noise coming from the rear of the car. The noise only happens at those speeds,on hills, and flat ground, and in curves, and on straight always, but I never hear it at any other time. What it might be?
View 8 RepliesI've searched but can't find what my problem is , ON idle when clutch is not depressed loud ticking noise , but when I push the clutch in it goes away . Also the ticking noise will get louder if I accelerate . ONLY Im first gear will I hear a loud grinding noise which means I have to quickly switch into second . Sound similar to something being dragged along a fence . Again the grinding sound I'm first will only happen if I'm giving it gas. Car has 325,000 km . Something with the transmission ?
View 1 RepliesI have a 1997 Impreza wagon, 168K miles. There is a creaking noise from left lower suspension. Mechanic lubricated lower control arm bushings and front sway bar links. That lasted about 1/2 mile. It seems to go away when the temperature is high 70's or higher. Steering, etc., seem unaffected. When will this become fatal, if at all?
View 7 RepliesThere's a very loud jerky noise in my car whenever I turn the wheel. This happens when I turn it right or left and the noise gets louder and jerks more when I turn the wheel more. So, if I make just a small left hand turn the noise isn't too bad but it's there, but if I make a U-turn and have to really turn the wheel the car makes the noise and jerks. The noise is like a loud "ga-ga-ga" sound ..
View 5 Repliesmy '97 subaru impreza outback sport has a rhythmic wosh wosh sound from the right rear wheel when the brakes are applied. It has rear drum brakes. I put on new drums, shoes and springs and the sound is still there. When braking hard, there is a metal knocking sound as well. What this could be?
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