Suzuki - Grandvitara :: No Sign Of A Leak And Yet No Engine Oil - Bad PVC Valve
Aug 24, 2016
I own a 2007 Suzuki Grand Vitara, V6, about 104,000 miles. My mechanic recommended the annual oil change in December 2015. My vehicle started making a loud tapping noise July 2016, so I took it to a mechanic. My mechanic discovered my car had no engine oil and there's no evidence of a leak. I have to replenish the engine oil every three weeks. My mechanic recommends I replace the PVC Valve; I'm unsure if the issue is the PVC Valve or oil compatibility issue. Oh I must also mention (not sure if it's related) when driving or parked and my a/c is running, the a/c intermittently blows out hot air....I can hear the transition like another vent suddenly opens up.
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I have a 2006 Suzuki Grand Vitara with a manual gear box. When I start the car in the morning it tends to shake a bit, especially if I touch the accelerator. Just after starting, I can change up through the gears up to 3rd gear without touching the accelerator. After a while when it warms up, it is fine.
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I'm having brake light issues with a 2001 Suzuki Grand Vitara. The brake light fuse keeps blowing. The last time driven with me following the driver side brake light was dimmer than the passenger side. At one stop the driver side brake light pulsed brighter for a split second then went back to dim. A few stops later it became as bright as the passenger side and stayed that way for the rest of the trip. The driver put in a breaker fuse and it was in during the observed trip. I'm not sure of the brake light visual symptoms without the breaker fuse in other than that the fuse keeps blowing which prevents the vehicle from being shifted out of park. What the problem could be? Bad ground?
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Today I did a oil change (70k). While under the car I notice a small leak from the back side of the engine. When I got home, I had the chance to remove the engine cover to investigate and clean the engine up a bit.
I found that the bolts in the rear of the valve cover had a little puddle of oil around them. I took a T-30 torque bit and was able to get a least a full turn on the rear bolts and about half turn on the middle ones. Fronts were about a quarter turn. Check your valve cover bolts.
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I have a 2001 Screw 4x4 that had a bad valve on the passenger side. I got the head rebuilt and put it all back together. Now it has a pretty bad oil leak at the rear of the engine. I thought it was the valve cover gasket but when I took it off the gasket was right where it's supposed to be. I pulled the starter and it seems to be leaking out of the new head gasket. What could I have done wrong? The thing runs perfect now but it's dripping oil like crazy so I had to have done something wrong. I used an OEM head gasket from the dealer and torqued the new head bolts to 30 ft-lbs and then went another 90 turn twice just like the book said.
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I do not know much about cars. I tried to consult my owners manual, but no luck. The problem is this. I have a 2004 Suzuki Aerio with about 73,000 miles on it. When I have my blower on (regardless if hot or cold, ambient, defrost, or AC) and I turn left, my car starts making a "shoof" noise kind of like a large stack of paper falling over. Just today I noticed that the floor of my front passenger area was wet and discovered that there is also a leak or leaks coming down from behind my glovebox when I make these left turns. If I don't have the blower on, there is no noise and (presumably) no leak. The contents of my glovebox are completely dry. I am at a loss as to what is causing this.
What this is, whether it is serious, and can I fix this myself or do I have to take it in? And if I have to take it in to get fixed, how should this problem be described in order to get it fixed properly? I had brought it in to a Midas a few weeks ago about the noise (before I discovered the leak and the air-dependence of the problem) and the guys there said that they heard the noise but thought it was just my wheel rubbing against the wheel well when making sharp turns and that it wasn't that big of a problem.
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I bought the little car to get off my motorcycle and its done great. But, after a couple trips around town my check engine light came on, and I imiditely noticed a change in my idle and engine performance. Im assuming my engine changed the air/fuel ratio to account for the sensor indications. My initial code read came back with four codes which said something about spark, and O2 sensor, and emissions. I went ahead put new spark plugs, gaped them as well as replaced the first O2 sensor.
After that I reconnected my battery and sure enough no engine light and my idle felt even better than before. (by the way my old plugs looked normal) But shortly down the road the light came on again. My idle did become a little different but not like my first encounter with the engine light. My power too seems a bit degraded, as well as the engine's sound. As of right now I am only reading one code P0422, which I do not see in the manual. I read online that its probably my catalytic converter or my engine is running at an improper air/fuel ratio. I am praying that it is not my catalytic converter and just my engine computer throwing things off.
Other things which may serve as clues:
Slight valve cover gasket leak (I will change the gasket when I do my timing belt job along with other seal and probably the water pump)
When pumping gas I can get about 90 cents in at a time, now more like 40 cents since the Saudis lowered our gas prices. Assuming I've got some kind of venting problem.
Car has 107K manual shift.
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I have a oil leak that I can't seem to find it appears to be leaking down above the passenger side valve cover and then goes under the engine cover. I don't notice much oil in the valley. This is a 2011 f250 6.7 with 116000 miles on it. I have had no other problems with this truck. Could this be the turbo lines? I am on a RV trip several hundred miles from home so I have very limited tools. The leak doesn't appear to be bad at this point the valve cover is wet with a small drip but it's only in the middle. I just changed my oil prior to the trip when I noticed the leak. I did have a leak on the new filter but a new filter fixed that but still have this one higher up.
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I've had to replace my radiator twice due to it overheating. I am noticing coolant level going down but I'm not seeing any signs of an external leak. My garage is saying it is probably internal and going into the engine. Says I probably have to replace the head gasket but that will be very expensive.
Could I get some further feedback on what it could be and what else I could do? I am also getting a check engine light on a "lean mixture" issue. Not sure if they are related.
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My Concorde LXI 1998 been having this problem lately for couple of times a week. It sometimes dies in the middle of the road and I have to turn it on by pressing on the gas continuously. So, it shows the oil leak sign and it doesn't crank up. I crank my car by just pressing on the gas few times. I have attached the link of the video in here : [URL] ....
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I have a '98 Honda Civic with 230K miles on it. Last month, I suddenly saw few drops of coolant on my garage floor. I opened the hood and saw coolant splashed over the engine. I opened the coolant reservoir and it was empty. Surprisingly, the car never overheated and neither did the temp needle go up. I took the car to the mechanic (Honda shop) and they said that the radiator is leaking. I replaced the radiator and after driving for couple of weeks, the same issue re-occurred.
The coolant ran low in the reservoir and there was coolant splash over the engine. I took the car back to the shop and they said that the hose was not properly installed. They fixed it and said there is no sign of leak. I have been driving for a week now and check the coolant routinely. I have noticed that the coolant level has again dropped significantly. But, after the last fix, I do not see any visible sign of leak. There is no evidence of coolant anywhere under the hood. I am not sure if there is something else going on now. Is there something else I should check?
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My wife drives a Suzuki XL7 from 2007 with approximately 70000 miles on board. While driving the engine hesitates and the revs drop suddenly, not much but it is visible on the dash and the car shakes. I have changed the spark plugs, air filter is fine, and it is still doing it. I was thinking about changing the fuel filter however the filter is not serviceable in this car, it is part of the fuel pump assembly. A mechanic checked the fuel pressure and it appears it is fine. There are no warning light on the dash, no check engine light on and the car accelerates just fine if you give it gas. It has no problem starting and I have not noticed doing the same thing while idling, though this issue is intermittent. My wife stated that the problem happens regardless if the engine is cold or hot.
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I'm not sure what is the correct term to describe the engine behavior. Maybe backfire, knocking, but it doesn't sound like the youtube videos I see online. I just know that under certain conditions, the engine shutters with an exploding feel to it like it needed to "pass some gas" for a human.
This happens when braking quickly from high speed to slow speed or a quick stop. Also happens when accelerating then stopping a bit and resuming acceleration (an interrupted acceleration as rush hour traffic not allow for a nice acceleration - you know how people stop and go speeding up then having to break and repeat, affecting you and when you misgauge the best optimal acceleration speed, you have to stop acceleration a bit then resume).
I drive automatic transmission. Are many auto tranny cars affected by this type of thing? I seem to notice it with the cars I've driven. Or maybe I drive crappy cars. I think I noticed it once in a friends manual shift car. This expected normal behavior of cars?
Car drives fine except for the mentioned behavior for the drastic speed changes. The car is a 2006 Suzuki Forenza, automatic transmission. Currently 80k miles.
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I have a 2007 Suzuki XL7 that's sending me messages whenever the car demons feel the need. From time to time, a message will come up on my console display saying, "TURN OFF ENGINE; OIL PRESSURE LOW." I shut off the engine and then it stops. Along with the message there is a continuous tone similar to when a door is open. The tone gets loud, then soft, repeat. I find it hard to believe that the oil pressure would equalize after the engine being shut down for about 30 seconds. Could I possible have an electrical problem? I ask this because, as I mentioned before, the tone is loud initially and then soft. When I use the turn signal, the same thing happens.
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seems a bit rather loud. Can hear part of it while in car idling and the hood closed.
Is this normal or indicates potential problem to fix?
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Having issues with the stock one that came with our cars I think I may be leaking from the diverter valve. I was searching the forum but couldn't find the answer but when I hit the gas I can hear I would say like the diverter valve is constantly releasing the air and the power pretty much plateaus doesn't keep pulling like it did I'm assuming the diverter valve because i know there were issues of them before but i wasn't sure if they had the same issue in the mk6.
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2007 Suzuki XL 7 110.5K miles. Check engine light came on with message on display "tighten gas cap". Went to auto parts store where they did a scan and verified this was the issue. Replaced original gas cap with after market cap and allowed sufficient time for codes to clear. Check engine light never went off and message popped on occasion.
Exchanged cap at same store. Check engine light still on with occasional message. Should I be looking for an air leak in the fill tube or go with OEM gas cap figuring that the after market cap is poor design?
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I have a 2006 suzuki forenza (automatic) with about 90,000 miles on it. Five times this summer, it seems to get "stuck" between reverse/ neutral (both letters are displayed on dashboard) and the check engine light goes on. I turn the car off/on and the the problem seems to resolve. The check engine light stays on for about 24 hours. The car drives "fine" (its a relative term, has some other quirks) for another 2-4 weeks until it happens again. My question is: is this a serious problem or can I just ignore it?
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2007 Suzuki XL7 luxury 6 cyl 3.6l - Error code reads p0122 and the computer in the dash reads Engine Hot- A/C off. It turned over earlier but Car wont start now. Battery is new, all fluid levels, fuses ok. So... looking for
1) PART NUMBER to search for to replace the TPS? or
2) SIMPLE STEP BY STEP instruction on how to ADJUST it?
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so I have a 2azfe engine
So there's an oil leak coming from the valve cover gasket (just purchased vehicle dirt cheap with 220k)
found this
Notice all the oil sitting on top of the exhaust mani gasket
In the left(lower) part of the picture it appears to be scraped.
the gasket appears to be newer, I did NOT use a screw driver to remove the valve cover, which is what this appears to have been done..
Can this be sanded down then filled with jb weld, and then regasketed?
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I've got a coolant leak here (I wiped away some of it before taking the picture):
Close up
This is the only place I can find coolant leaking and it's running down all the way to the water pump:
When I wiped away from just below the valve cover gasket it flaked right off and it doesn't appear there is any oil mixed in. I changed the oil today and it didn't appear to have any coolant mixed in either.
The coolant doesn't appear to have any oil in it's nice and pink as it should be. I started the car from a cold start and sat and watched the area waiting for it to leak but nothing ever came out, of course.
I know there shouldn't be coolant leaking from this area anyways but I don't know how else to explain the trail pictured. I definitely have a small leak somewhere as I've found coolant on the floor of the garage before.
Do I just replace the valve cover gasket and move on or is there something else I should be concerned with here?
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