I have put on over 45000 miles already on my 07 SX4 and love this car. I am getting a brake light coming on at various times after releasing the brakes and accelerating. It goes out usually after I stop accelerating or hitting the brakes. It does not come back on after driving about 20 miles.
View 5 RepliesI'm having brake light issues with a 2001 Suzuki Grand Vitara. The brake light fuse keeps blowing. The last time driven with me following the driver side brake light was dimmer than the passenger side. At one stop the driver side brake light pulsed brighter for a split second then went back to dim. A few stops later it became as bright as the passenger side and stayed that way for the rest of the trip. The driver put in a breaker fuse and it was in during the observed trip. I'm not sure of the brake light visual symptoms without the breaker fuse in other than that the fuse keeps blowing which prevents the vehicle from being shifted out of park. What the problem could be? Bad ground?
View 4 RepliesInitially when I start driving, the brakes work just find. But it seems as I use the brakes, the front brakes build up pressure and slowly start to lock up. They don't lock up completely, but they do cause a significant amount of drag. The rotor, calipers, rubber hoses and master cylinder are all very new. I'm thinking maybe the issue is with the master cylinder and am considering going to get one along with a brake booster(since it doesn't have one currently).
View 14 RepliesBasically i have an integra here used to be a gsr with a type R engine. Basic bolt on's and 8lbs flywheel, 6 puck racing clutch. Here are the problems, i hate fixing other shops messes but here we go. When sitting at a stop light if we hit the brakes a few times every time we do it the rpm's drop and start going up and down, some times when the car is just sitting there idleing it does it. Had the same problem on a del sol with a gsr engine and b16a2 head on it done from the same shop. Also when its cold the owner complains that it will take him like 1/2 hour to start it. I was thinking that the grounding wasn't good enough. The check engine light is on as well, but how to get the ecu codes out of this ecu.
View 14 RepliesThis new discussion is for owners of 2006 Grand Vitara 4x4 SUV with the automatic transmission. Experiencing a vibration while accelerating between 45-60 MPH. This is an on-going problem for many of us and we need to make sure that Suzuki of America hears us loud and clear, and develops a solution.
View 30 RepliesMy 2003 Buick Century heater works fine while accelerating but as soon as I release the gas the air begins to cool, swiftly. I have had the radiator flushed and the coolant topped off but the problem persists.
View 17 RepliesWe have a 2009 GLS AWD 3.3l and recently discovered that the parking brake was not fully releasing. We watch our mileage quite closely with the obc and it wasn't seeming quite right. A quick check of the rear parking brake drums showed that they were hot..as in not red hot but too hot to touch. The cure seems to be to work the parking brake pedal up and down fast and many times to 'free up' the mechanisms....this we now do after each time we use that brake. Sadly it is necessary to use it from time to time or like all parking brakes, it would become dysfunctional. Just a tip for those who may wonder why their good mileage suddenly went bad.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2010 prius 2;
This morning after starting the car and releasing the brakes I heard loud clunking sound (seemed like a belt ?) Turned the car off. tried it again exact same thing, turned if off .. opened the hood to see if I can tell where this was coming from.. started the car and the clunking came for <1 sec and went away, car drove fine brakes worked fine..
I read something regarding temp changes we have had some change but not a drastic change, and the car was driven over the weekend.
I have a 03 GLI 24V VR6 6 speed and im having an issue with the brake light.. ive checked all the fuses and emergency brake sensor and they are all good, the issue is the brake light flashes 3 times then will stay on almost immediately and whenever it does the entire drive of the car changes.. without the light on the car runs fine but when it comes on its like the car goes to a limp mode and is leaning out on fuel.. it wont rev past 4k it falls on its face and basically jerks along until I get where I am going.. I've replaced ABS speed sensors, MAF, and front brakes and axles recently.. before this was an random issue that would come and go but now its almost every time and it makes it undriveable..
View 1 RepliesIt's a UK VW Passat year 2000 with 1.8i longitudinal engine layout. Car has ABS
I discovered that the brakes are not releasing quickly after application. Examples where this has been noticed:
When braking and accelerating at the same time to dry brakes after puddles. Noticeable lack of power to re-accelerate when you release the brake pedal, presumably due to continued braking. Noticeable continuation of braking when trailbraking into a corner (ok sometimes I'm a bit of a racer in a family car).
What concerns me is when the snow, ice or heavy rain comes back that I might find sudden instability if the brakes aren't releasing after slowing for a corner or that worse still I'm destined for total brake servo failure.
There are no ABS related error codes although in the ice and snow I did find that the ABS fired until the pedal raised stiff and all 4 wheels just locked up (that was a fun junction crossing).
I have noticed that the drainage ducts in the bulkhead are blocked but I've never had water enter the car so I don't think it's water in the brake servo although this could have happened prior to me owning it I guess.
Working theories:
Due to slave cylinder corrosion and calipers are releasing slowly
Due to brake servo fault - either water ingress of vacuum leak
While driving into work today I noticed that when I turn the exhaust brake on the light flashes 4 times and turns back off. This definitely does not seem normal but it is cold outside. Could it being 9* have anything to do with this?
View 11 RepliesI should probably arm myself with a sound clip, you can hear it with radio off windows up, but more prevalent outside or windows down. whenever I stop and release the brake, there is a metallic clank noise that is heard outside the car. now I didn't want to bring it up to the dealer, but at my last service interval, I test drove a brand new Prius C and I could not duplicate it. So I don't know if its something that developed after it brakes in and is normal.. The prius C I test drove was utterly quite going from brake to gas until the point the whirling sound starts. mine has a metallic clank and it usually is not immediately as I release but within a second, and I thought maybe it was a change in the regen system, but now I am more curious as a brand new one did not make that sound.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 Murano, 96K.
In Aug 2011, I had the rear disc brakes/rotors replaced. Front ones were replaced in Feb of this year.
For the past month, whenever I release the brake, I hear squealing (no sound when I press the brake to stop). Last about 5 secs, or until I hit about 15-20 MPH. Seems to happen only after the brakes heat up. I've tried to "Google" the answer, but the answers are mostly for drum brakes.
Started a few months ago didn't really bother me until now. Started when I would forget the parking brake is on and would just put the car in reverse & wouldn't move until I released the parking brake. Did it about 5-7 times and now every time I brake without the parking brake on, it squeaks & is really annoying. Is there any way to fix this or is it just gonna be complicated & expensive?
View 10 Replies2004 Accent 1.6L 5spd
Purchased this car used with 64k miles on it. I am in the process of performing the 60k miles service items and going through typical replacement of worn parts.
I have noticed that my rear passenger brake drum assembly squeaks when I let off the brake pedal. Note that this is not noise when applying brake pressue, but after releasing the brakes. Additionally, the drum happens to be rusted very badly. It took a good amount of brute force to remove the drum in order to inspect the brake assembly. There was a lot of brake dust built up and I thought that cleaning that out would get rid of the noise.
I suspect it could be one of the springs but I cannot be for certain. The squeak does not occur when I release the parking brake.
2000 Mercedes A-class, currently 190 Km, purchased 7 years ago with 90Km, all maintenance on time, as recommended.
If the car sits a day, no problem. If it sits a few days, then when releasing the brake and trying to move, the car lurches a bit. The longer it sits, the worse it seems.
Is this the back drums, as the dealer tells us, or is something else wrong?
After replacing my brake pads and shoes I am hearing a squealing noise coming from the area near my brake pedal. This noise sometimes becomes high pitched if I depress the brake too hard. I am also losing a little bit of brake fluid if I depress the pedal hard several times. The brakes themselves function fine and have no problem stopping. When I bled the brakes today some of the fluid was black. I figured it might be air in the system but after bleeding them it is still happening. I also replaced the bleeder screws.
1997 Pontiac Sunfire 2.4L uses DOT 3 brake fluid.
I had been having battery issues with my 97 ford f150 4.6 liter for the longest time, thought i had a short under dash, i pulled entire dash out, disconnecting bat first of course, and inspected all wiring harness connections and fixing my issues and putting it all back together. now with new bat and all put back together i am now getting the airbag light flashing 5 times then 2 times (error code 52) i know it has some thing to do with power failure or backup battery, but now with the new battery in i cant seem to get it to reset. How to do this?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2005 Silverado Crew Cab 1500 with a 5.3V8, discs in front, drums in rear.
Series of events:
2011- Grinding noise from passenger front tire. Sounded like metal on metal. Removed tire to find that inside brake pad was completely worn down. I thought, at the time, that the pad separated from the plate, and fell off. I noticed at the time that my caliper was stiff (not releasing). No other (apparent) problems at the time. Drivers side pads looked as expected when I replaced them.
December 2012- Grinding noise from Drivers side front tire. I pulled the tire and found that the inside pad was completely worn. All the other pads looked fine. Still noticed that both tires were difficult to spin while in the air.
Feb 2013- Fuel economy has dropped an average of 3 mpg, since December. Started hearing an intermittent squealing/grinding noise from the front end. Seems to only happen when turning left (that could also be from my proximity to the front tire). I had my dad stand outside the truck while driving in circles. He said he couldn't be sure it was coming from the drivers tire. Sometimes the noise is loud. Sometimes its faint. The majority of the time there is no noise. The check engine light came on and I had a C0035 and a C0055. They are a Drivers side front speed sensor and a Vehicle Speed Sensor. Decided to change the drivers side caliper. I used pliers (yes I know I shouldn't have done that) to pinch the brake line to minimize fluid loss. Bled the line.
March 2013- Brakes have partially locked up on me twice in the last three days. I thought there was an electrical fire in my truck based on the smell of the brakes. I couldn't press the pedal. It was like pushing on a boulder. They didnt completely lock, but I could tell they were stuck. The second time it happened I drove immediately home and jacked up the front end. I could barely get the drivers tire to move. I cracked the lines from the master cylinder and some fluid came out. At that point, after reattaching the line, I could spin the tire easier than I have ever been able too in recent history.
Now, Ive read that the speed sensors on my truck are problematic. I'm inclined to think, since cracking the lines on master cylinder released the caliper, that the master cylinder is the problem. I just have difficulty rationalizing that the master cylinder would cause this problem, as of recently, predominately in the drivers side. It could be happening in the passenger tire as well, but it is not apparent.
I also use the parking brake every time I park my truck, even though its an Auto. I don't know why, but its habit.
Today I stopped at the post office to check my mail. I put the car in park and didn't shut off the engine - this is what I always do. When I returned a few moments later the car would not go into reverse (this was after releasing the parking brake) and the traction control symbol came on. The car would go into drive but that didn't work much as I was up against a hill (or almost against it). Shutting the car off and turning it on again solved the problem. The parking space was badly potholed; I'm assuming I had less than full contact on one wheel which caused the traction control to kick in which prevented reverse from engaging. And to be clear - it's not that it went into reverse but didn't go anywhere; reverse simply wouldn't engage (I did not try neutral),
View 13 RepliesParking Brake not releasing fully and therefore the car thinks it's on, sounds the gong and puts a big red P on the MFI? I've had this problem a couple of times now. I can cure it by hooking my left foot under the parking brake pedal and just lifting it slightly at the top of its natural travel when operating the release handle. But it certainly makes me not want to put it on. Trip to the workshop required?
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