Toyota :: 1983 - Vibration At Front End Even When Idling
Nov 24, 2012
I have an 83 Toyota 4x4 pickup. 4 months ago I was backing up in a parking garage and hooked my front bumper on a concrete column. I took it to my mechanic and found out I broke my right motor mount. I replaced both motor mounts and still have the vibration. I took it to Big O and they found nothing wrong with the frame but said I needed an alignment. (true) BUT the truck vibrates even when it idles. When I push in the brake pedal, the vibration dampens a little bit, like muffled a bit. What's wrong with my truck?
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My wifes 06 4runner 2wd with 120000 miles on it needed a new battery. I changed the battery that night and my wife called me the next morning when i was at work and told me that her car was idling low with a slight vibration at almost all speeds. Also, when stepping on gas pedal from a dead stop the vehicle hesitates only momentarily and then lurches forward like its slamming into 1st gear and then shifts and drives normally beyond first gear... I am perplexed. Never had any issues with tranny or any other component of the car for that matter until i changed the battery.
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My 4 cylinder Tacoma vibrates a lot when it is idling, especially sitting in "drive" at traffic lights. My regular mechanic has tried various things to remedy it but none has really worked. He suggested the valves may need to be adjusted. Is this plausible? Or is he off-base? And is it really expensive?
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I've been having issues with my 2000 Toyota Avalon for the past few days. After troubleshooting with my mechanic this morning, we discovered that the front three ignition coils (when looking at the car from the front bumper) do not function when the car idles. However, they seem to work perfectly once the RPM increases past about 2500. I bought some new ignition coils to replace the originals, but no joy with those. The idle is still very rough and one can feel the misfire any time the engine is not revving higher than 2500 RPM. During our tests, we also found that the original coils do not produce a spark when the spark plugs are inserted. I did the same test with the new coils and had the same result, although the middle plug sparked briefly. The fuse for the ignition coils has been checked (it's fine). I know it must be electrical but was wondering where exactly the problem lies?
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83' Toyota Celica GT with an automatic transmission. The problem that we are having is that we can't get it to turn over. All it wants to do is click at us. As far as we both can tell all cables and wiring harnesses are plugged in and there aren't any loose wires. We've had the alternator and starter checked and they both passed. Also there is a new battery with new terminals installed so that's not going to be the problem. In all of the reading that I've done I keep hearing about a neutral start switch. What is it? And where is it located? I believe I've found a spot where it should be but there isn't anything there. And we've put all of the parts in the car back where they go.
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I have a 1983 Toyota Tercel SR5. The car runs really well, however I have encountered a problem. When I accelerate there's this rattle-like sound that gets louder as I go faster. I was with my father and we had to speak louder to talk. He suggests that the noise is not in the engine but could be in the drivetrain. The noise is not changing with the engine RPM, just the car. It goes with the sound of the wheels; the faster I go, the sound gets louder. It sounds serious, but how? What are some of my options? Is it my drivetrain? Or my brakes?
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I have a 83 Jeep CJ7 with a right front brake that locks up. This a a manual brake system. If I brake the bleeder and relieve the pressure, I'm usually good for the rest of the day. Then it's the same problem the next time I drive it. I've replaced the master cylinder, caliper, rubber brake hose and relaxed the fluid with synthetic. I'm at a loss of what else to do. The right front is the only one that has this problem.
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I purchased a used 2006 Toyota Highlander AWD about 4 months ago. Ever since I bought it, it has had a vibration / wobble from the front end that can be felt through the steering wheel and acceleration petal. Only happens between 40-45 mph. I have brought it to the dealer many times and every time they balance the tires. Last time they said it was a faulty motor mount and replaced it. The problem has not been fixed with this repair.
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Just had front Rotors and 4 brake pads replaced. Afterward, I noticed after the car has been in motion for a few minutes, a low rumble sound and vibration occurs randomly and usually at low RPM 1500-2500. Vehicle is a 2009 Highlander 4 cyl at 72000 miles.
Toyota service dealer ran diagnostic check and could not find anything.
Second opinion - mechanic swears it's coming from transmission drum and beginning of trans going.
Third opinion- shocks are starting to go and likely root cause on the sound/sensation.
Fourth opinion, wheel alignment or warped rotor likely the cause.
Performed wheel alignment, slight improvement but rumble is still evident. One replaced rotor has a pronounced groove on exterior. Serviceman suggested we won the lottery and the groove came from a rock from the street hitting the rotor.
Finally, it was determined we need to replace intermediate drive shaft due to knocking sound when turning the steering wheel. Not likely related to the low rumble.
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I got the clutch replaced on my 1993 Toyota Corolla (~160,000mi.) by a shop and immediately afterward started having really bad front end vibration problems. I took it back to the shop & they said that changing the clutch may have caused already worn out motor mount(s) to be stressed and that was causing the vibration. They want time with the car to figure out which motor mount it might be. My question is, is it reasonable that a properly performed clutch change caused the motor mount problems? Or is this the result of sloppy work? I realize the car is old, but I have always maintained it well since I bought it in 2004.
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2004 Toyota Tacoma... I drive 40 miles each way to work daily and sometime, usually 20 minutes into the drive, I get a vibration in the front end and felt through the floorboards and steering wheel, that get progressively worse until the entire cab is shaking. It lasts approximately 10 minutes and then it stops only to happen again on the next drive. Wheels have been checked.
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On my way home from work today, I noticed a slight vibration in the steering wheel and could even feel it in the shifter when stopped in drive at a light or stop sign. the car was fully warmed up and this was still happening. I don't really recall this before, but noticed it tonight as my hand felt it.
side note - I did do some spirited driving with a friend on Thursday, (two days ago) but drove the car yesterday and didn't notice the issue. I was thinking maybe I damaged something, but then again I would have felt it yesterday. so I sure hope not. Again its not a very harsh constant vibration but very slight but enough to get my attention. when I switch the car to neutral it stops and back to drive it starts again.
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i have a 2.2 crdi 2009 santa fe and when my foots off the gas pedal it has this strange vibrating hum noise that comes and goes - it doesn't matter if its in Park or Neutral.
You can only hear it inside the cab so im thinking maybe its something up against the firewall but i can't see what?
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When the car is idling or running in low speed when i power up or down the windows the car begins to vibrate. Mazda 626 year 2001.....
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When I'm idling and I rev the engine to exactly 1200 rpm i can feel an extra vibration coming from the engine. If i hold it at this rpm it will continue on. now this is not a violent vibration but more so of a buzz i can feel that travels to my steering wheel as well. what could it be ?
Another question is when i travel up my driveway and i hit the sloped curb at a angle i can hear a specific "clunk" sound coming from around the drivers foot well area what could this be? perhaps my axle going bad? I also heard it when I was reversing out of my parking space while turning.
I am new to this car and trying to make sure I'm doing everything i can to put it into good shape.
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I own a 2.4L Automatic 2003 Camry XLE.
I've gone to multiple mechanics and none have been able to give me a clear answer. Long story short, I've just recently had a new engine put in.
While it runs fine, there is a tremendous amount of vibration coming off the engine. You can feel it while it's idling, and at all RPMs. It kinda bearable at 1,500 and is the worst at 1,800 RPMs. Beyond 1,800 RPMs, it doesn't get worse, its kinda tapers off just a little.
Notes:
- We've checked the balance shafts and they are aligned correctly.
- No engine code
- Replaced spark plugs
The vibration is bad enough that some screws inside the car have even become loosened. As I said in the beginning, I've gone to multiple mechanics and no luck. What it could be and what to do/try.
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I finally traded in my car and picked up a black 2010 ES 350, CPO, with 33k miles. However, i feel a vibration inside the vehicle while the car is idling (even when it is fully warmed up) and i was wondering if this is normal on these models? I have owned a is250, and ls460 and I didn't really notice anything like it. It almost feels like my ex's toyota camry when idling (not as loud of course). Is there a recall that fixes it? or is this normal with FWD vehicles?
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My 2010 ES350 now has about 52K miles. Recently, it has developed a vibration in the steel wheel when the engine is idle. It used to be very smooth. I wonder what has caused the vibration.
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When I'm idling my car at a stop, I notice a slight vibrating through the car... The vibration could also be felt through the steering wheel.
Not a major issue. Tried pushing car into neutral to see if it made a difference... Nothing.
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Would bad harmonic dampener cause vibration when in park or when in gear but idling? Highway speeds no vibration..
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1992 Chevy Cavalier, about 120,000 miles. A few months ago my car has started to rumble and vibrate while idling in drive. It only occurs while I'm in drive and completely stopped. If I change to neutral or park, it immediately goes away. Also, if I'm in drive, keep my foot on the brake and give it a little gas, the vibration goes away. I've changed the spark plugs, had the throttle body cleaned (not very thoroughly) and my mechanic said my engine mounts look fine and to not worry too much about it. Is this a problem I can ignore as an inconvenience or should I put more effort into getting this fixed?
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