Toyota - Highlander :: 2009 - Low Rumble / Vibration From Lower Front End


Jan 5, 2014

Just had front Rotors and 4 brake pads replaced. Afterward, I noticed after the car has been in motion for a few minutes, a low rumble sound and vibration occurs randomly and usually at low RPM 1500-2500. Vehicle is a 2009 Highlander 4 cyl at 72000 miles.

Toyota service dealer ran diagnostic check and could not find anything.

Second opinion - mechanic swears it's coming from transmission drum and beginning of trans going.

Third opinion- shocks are starting to go and likely root cause on the sound/sensation.

Fourth opinion, wheel alignment or warped rotor likely the cause.

Performed wheel alignment, slight improvement but rumble is still evident. One replaced rotor has a pronounced groove on exterior. Serviceman suggested we won the lottery and the groove came from a rock from the street hitting the rotor.

Finally, it was determined we need to replace intermediate drive shaft due to knocking sound when turning the steering wheel. Not likely related to the low rumble.

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I purchased a used 2006 Toyota Highlander AWD about 4 months ago. Ever since I bought it, it has had a vibration / wobble from the front end that can be felt through the steering wheel and acceleration petal. Only happens between 40-45 mph. I have brought it to the dealer many times and every time they balance the tires. Last time they said it was a faulty motor mount and replaced it. The problem has not been fixed with this repair.

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Toyota - Highlander-hybrid :: 2009 Vehicle With Poor MPG

I just bought (ten days ago) a 2009 Highlander Hybrid Limited, hoping to take advantage of the very good MPG advertised by Toyota. The vehicle has 70,000 miles and in pretty good condition.

The problem is that I have a terrible 13-14 MPG. I did some research and I can not find what is wrong. I do everything by the book. No abrupt acceleration or braking. No AC. I drive only in city.

The batteries levels are good according to what I can see on screen.

I am a little worried because even for a regular gas engine Highlander 13 MPG is pretty bad !

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Toyota - Highlander :: 2009 - Pop Coming From Rear When Take Foot Off The Accelerator

Ever since I got a brake job, my brake lights have come on, all 8 of them. Traction Control, ABS, Brake, etc. Every once in a while they will go off and be normal for a day or two then they will come back on. The service center that did the brake job said everything looks good, it must be a faulty brake actuator.

The brakes work fine although on starting I have to remove my foor from the petal and then reapply it to move the transmission from park to drive. When on the highway doing 70 mph or so, when I take my foot off the accelerator I hear a pop coming from under the rear of the car mostly on the passenger side. In about 5 minutes, I'll hear it again. It sounds like pressure is being built up than all of a sudden released with a pop.

Actuator replacement and I rather not go through the expense if it is air in the brake line of a faulty sensor.

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Nissan - Maxima :: 2002 - Rumble Or Vibration In Right Front Tire Area

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Location feels / sounds underneath driver / front passenger footwells and only occurs on strenuous acceleration i.e off a round about going up hill. It doesn't occur at any other time.

It's been in and out of the Dealership but they haven't been able to replicate the problem.

Just recently I went to overtake another vehicle at around 100kmh when I lost all drive to the wheels. The engine was running normally, there were no warning lights on the dash but no matter how hard I pressed the accelerator i had no forward drive other than coasting.

I wondered if the exhaust was loose or an exhaust or other supporting bracket had failed but as previously mentioned the Dealership can't find the problem?

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Toyota - Highlander :: 2004 - Front Driver Side Brake Caliper Seized?

My 2004 Toyota Highlander with 84K miles has been diagnosed with a seized front driver side brake caliper with worn brake pad (1/32). I had recall work done a few days ago at the dealership and this was discovered afterward during the "complimentary" multi-point check-up. - You know, the long laundry list of recommended work they try to sell you on. Of course the brake work is actually necessary.

Since the vehicle was just inspected 2 months ago at our local shop, my husband suggested I take it back there to verify the diagnosis and see what that mechanic would recommend. That mechanic confirmed and showed me the seized caliper/worn pad, which, by the way, was functioning well in mid January at inspection, and measured 7/32. This mechanic recommends replacing both calipers, pads, turning rotors. There was no indication of a problem with the RF caliper, but he says it's just a good idea to replace it so we would avoid having another problem in the future.

I want to ask everyone's opinion regarding replacement of just the bad caliper vs. both. Are we getting ripped off as far as the estimate and is the flush necessary? Also, is this issue typical in the first place, and what causes a brake caliper to seize? We've had several other vehicles driven many more miles than my Highlander and never experienced a seized caliper.

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Car: 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GTPEngine: 3.8L SuperchargedMileage: 94,300 miles

Issue : Usually after driving the car for a long period of time (approx 20 miles or more), Ill begin to hear a grinding coming from the front of the car. The grinding/ groaning can be felt in the gas pedal as well. Depending how hard I hit the gas the frequency increases. I am not sure if this is associated with the grinding, but i noticed that when I turn sharply and go easy on the gas and progressively add pressure the car will cut out until i cut straighten the wheel. Then all the power I requested is applied all at once.

What the locals think :

CV Shafts - Sears told me the first time i went to get them checked that my CV shaft boot was a little loose, suggested changing it. Then I went back two weeks later and they denied saying that and said my cv shafts were fine. (talk about confusing)

Wheel Bearings - Someone I know said my wheel bearing could be slipping or my traction control could be on its way out, so i replaced both front bearings.

Tune up - Someone suggested it could be mis-firing, with it coming up on 100,000 miles, i did a tune up. (plugs, wires, coil packs)

Transmission - Someone said the transmission could be going bad. So i did a flush and inspected the fluid, no shavings or any sign of extreme wear. (car shifts great too.)

Clogged Catalytic converter - the cat was clogged, two new 02 sensors and a new cat didn't even solve the issue I am describing, but it does have more power now.

Throttle Body - Someone said it could be a dirty throttle body....so i had that cleaned also.

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In the past month, things have gotten much worse and when the truck has been sitting for a few days, if I quickly leave the house and hop on the freeway (only about 1/2 mile away, I get a vicious vibration mostly in the steering wheel and less so in the rest of the cab. The wheel wiggles about an inch and a half back and forth at highway speeds and letting off the gas, braking, accelerating doesn't make much of difference, just speeds up or slows down the vibration frequency.

The wild thing is that it gets much better after about 2-3 miles. No longer really shaking, just a mild vibration like it has always had. If the truck is warm and I hop back on the freeway a few hours later, no vibration, just when leaving the house in the morning.

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2006 Toyota Rav4 4X4 4 Cylinder....

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[URL]

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Experienced rumble type noise, like if you drive over those highway rumble things on the edge of the road. It happens at low speeds like 30 mph or lower and more prominent when you come to a stop. It came on all of a sudden . Replaced new tie rods, dampener and stabilizer bar links and still have it. Tires wear great and thought the hub's were still turned in as it sounded the front differential drive line was going around. This is on a 2002 F250 crew cab.

The complete tie rod kit that connects to the the pitman arm isn't cheap, it did need replaced as there was a lot of play in it but damn, when on a set income and it still have same problem , very upsetting. On social security disability and I told them that I can't keep spending money on parts that they told me were bad and it didn't work. Everything is tight on the wheel according to the tire shop , it takes me a while to get underneath and I can't find anything .

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