I am experiencing a slight rumble-strip-like vibration/noise when veering to the right. There is no noticeable vibration when driving straight or to the right - sounds like it's coming from the front. I thought it was my tires but had them rotated with same symptoms/ I first noticed this shortly after I had them rotated in July. So it's probably front suspension.
View 3 RepliesMy 2001 Outback has developed a problem in the last few days. When I move the car from a dead stop, I go through a brief period of heavy vibration coming from the back of the car, exactly as if I am running over a rumble strip. It occurs as I am accelerating away from the stop just after the clutch is totally let out. Once I get to a high-enough velocity, I no longer feel it. However, if I maintain a very low velocity I can feel some vibration but not quite as pronounced as it was coming from a dead stop.
I have been able to make this happen in 1st and 2nd gear, I have not tried in 3rd, 4th and 5th. It does not happen in reverse. I tested the clutch by putting the car up against the back wall of my garage, revving the engine and putting the car into 4th and 5th gear and the car stalled, as it should. The clutch did not slip. This clutch has about 60,000 miles on it. The previous clutch was replaced at about 85,000 miles. The problem has been getting worse steadily during a just completed a 700 mile holiday round trip. Could this be the clutch? Could it be something in the transmission?
I recently bought a 2004 Mustang convertible V6 auto with 180K miles to be my daughter's first car. The car has a driveability issue. It has a "rumble-strip" like vibration at speeds between 35-55 mph. This is when accelerating or decelerating. If I slip the car in neutral when driving the vibration is gone. Here is what I have done: new plugs, wires, coil. New u-joints. Front end needed a new tie rod end on right side, new transmission filter and fluid (only replacing lost pan fluid). Another thing wrong with the car (possibly related?) is that the ABS & traction control lights are stuck on indicating a system failure with the ABS.
Note that when replacing the ujoints I noted a couple of things:1- there is SOME amount of play at the transmission tailshaft bushing. It seemed excessive to me, but a local transmission shop told me that if it is not leaking fluid that it is not a problem. I did not gage the movement, but it was close to 1/16".2 - The other thing I noticed is that the universal joint for the rear yoke was a little bit stiff, meaning that it did not move as easily as I would have thought that it should. This was the case with both the old rear u-joint and the new, This indicates to me that the pinion trunnion ears are not perfectly aligned, but not sure what I should expect.
So I got my Haldex fluid and DSG fluid changed two weeks ago. When I picked the car up I noticed a vibration when I was making tight turns. Last week I called the dealer and told them. They said to drive it a bit more to see if it works it self out. But now after getting back from H2Oi, it still is doing it but not as bad.
Its a vibration you can feel and a rumble you can hear when making a tight turn at slow speed. Like turning into a parking space or turning at a stop sign. What would this be? I searched but couldn't find an exact answer.
I have a weird problem with my 2008 Elantra GLS 86K Miles on it. I did a couple of searches on this problem but didn't find any threads. About a month ago I noticed that when I braked hard at highway speeds 65 to 70 Mph I would get a noise that sounded like I was driving over the rumble strips on the side of the road. The rumble was the same frequency no matter what speed you are going, it doesn't get faster or slower. The problem slowly got worse to the point that it would happen at 25 to 30 Mph. The noise sounds like it is coming from the front but I can't tell which side. I figured that it was probably rotors and time for a brake overhaul so I replaced the rotors, pads and hardware on the front and the back. I used synthetic brake grease on the slides and guides. I also replaced the brake fluid with synthetic DOT 3.
When I did the back brakes I found that the wheel bearing on the passenger side was leaking lots of grease so I replaced it with a Timken bearing. (I live over an hour away from the nearest dealer so I did the repairs myself.) While I was working on the bearing I pushed the rear shock up and out of the way and it stayed in the up position for quite a while, aren't the shocks under pressure and usually push right back down? (Just an off subject thought) Well after replacing the bearing the rumble strip noise went back to just happening at speeds from 45 Mph and up. I was also thinking of pulling the fuse on the ABS and seeing if the problem goes away but will pulling the fuse hurt the car in any way or trip a code? I know what the ABS sounds like and this is not the same noise you get when sliding on ice.
Have a 02 v10 125xxx miles have had grinding noise on drivers side sounds like driving on rumble strip took out the unit hub everything looks good changed out the needle bearing because it was frozen still have sound after needle bearing replacement sound goes away if hubs are locked so question is it the unit bearing or stub shaft...
View 2 RepliesI've recently been hearing a grinding/vibration noise on takeoff. I only hear it pretty much as soon as my foot comes off the brake, when the car is in drive, and the car gets its first bit of forward engagement/movement. It seems to only happen when the DSG engages in drive, before I put my foot on the gas pedal.
The closest thing I can say it sounds like is an exhaust rattle, but way less violent/not metal on metal sounding.
I know it's stupid but rattles and vibrations in an otherwise quiet car drive me absolutely crazy.
So, driving I have noticed this slight non-metallic vibration type noise. It seemed to come and go. So I emptied the car thinking it might be something I was carrying around. No such luck. Turned off the climate control, still there. I had the better half drive while I searched. I could never really see anything but thought it sounded like it might be either in the dash or around the floor area. Totally frustrated I unbuckle my seatbelt and crawl into the passenger floor head first. Nothing on the passenger side. I glance over to the Driver side footwell and notice the slightest vibration from a panel that covers the steering shaft as it goes through the firewall right behind the pedals. Aha! A plastic panel being held in place by 2 plastic type screws that are both loose. i tighten them down with a straight screw driver when I get home and silence! The rattle goes away. You might look at yours as well. I think this might apply to all Mk5 cars. Finding/Fixing a rattle like this for me is like finding money.
I have been experiencing a slight wheel vibration from the rear of my R32? I am thinking about replacing my wheels and tires, (continental sport contact 2 is what I have now) I have heard that the continental tire has an aggressive tread pattern because i get a tire noise above 45 mph.
View 12 RepliesStarts getting loud above 35mph, local tire shop recommends replacing the struts- says they are causing bumps in the tire because the tire is bouncing along as I drive. I did feel bumps going across the tire when I passed my hand across it.
View 15 RepliesWith normal acceleration my ex up shifts at about 50-55 mph and makes a shuttering noise and has a slight vibration briefly during the up shift. Could a tranny fluid change work?
View 14 RepliesHere's the deal:
1. My 2002 SC430 with 23,000 miles on it is making a low rubbing noise when slowing down, with a slight vibration, not severe enough, but it is annoying and frankly surprising on this car. The dealer tells me it's because the brakes have "glaze" on them, and short of a new brake job, you can jam on the brakes to clear or loosen some of this and reduce the noise. ( I live in the desert so I'm sure I could find a deserted stretch or road for this craziness...) The dealer reports the brakes have 70 - 80 percent life on them and I don't need a brake job.
2. Power steering. I thought this particular car was just hard to steer, but even the tech at the dealer commented it's like I have no power steering. I test drove two other cars, and the steering is markedly lighter on the other two SC430's I drove. (2002 and 2005) Dealer can't seem to find an explanation, but I have to drive this car with two hands around town... I know this is not the way this car was intended to feel.
I don't believe the car changed that much from the 2002 model so as to affect the steering. BTW, I'm using stock tires, not run flat, 4 months old. And the steering is stiff at idle anyway, regardless of tires. The first SC I drove, which sealed the decision to buy one, was so quiet I didn't know the engine was running, easy to steer, and smooth.
I have a 2010 Explorer XLT that I bought in 8/2012 with 7,000 miles on it. I had had a problem with a groaning noise and slight vibration starting at 34 mph, under load. I don't hear the noise if I let off the gas at 34. I hear it a little past 35 or so and it doesn't seem to groan again until about 60 mph or so. I also have a feeling of the all wheel drive engaging when I back out of the driveway, put it in drive and turn the wheel slightly.
I took it to the dealer this week under warranty and he calls me today and says the tires are worn differently all around and that is causing the problem. He says the tires could be out as much as, or as little as 1/16 of an inch and that is what is causing the all wheel drive to catch and also the groaning noise. I understand what he is saying, but I can't believe that is the problem or more would have been written about it.
I asked the guys about rotating the tires and he said it would not matter, it would just take the problem from one end of the vehicle to the other. These tires are not worn like the truck is out of alignment, it is just normal wear. It now has about 21k on the odometer. What do you all think of this diagnoses? The guy says the PTU thinks it needs the all wheel drive and therefore engages it. This truck can also be manually put in 4 wheel drive by flipping the switch.
Recently I have a vibration that I can feel slightly through the steering wheel. If I'm driving down the highway doing 70mph + I have a noise coming from the front end. Also while driving let's say 40mph and below and I let off the pedal to slow down I can here a vibration in the front that kind of sounds like a small Jake break. And when going over anything bumpy I hear like a popping metal sound. This popping sound has been going on for a long time and still can't figure it out. I replaced all my shocks thinking my old set was bottoming out. Nope, still have the same problem.
I jacked up the front end yesterday and checked for movement top and bottom and side to side thinking maybe the wheel bearings or ball joints were going. Everything is solid. Spun the wheels and no noise, no grinding, nothing. I can't figure it out. I have not removed the wheels to check and see if a caliper is loose. I will be checking that next. I did notice while looking around that I can push up on my pitman arm on the steering box. It's not a huge amount of movement but I can still move it. I can also see teeth marks between the box and the arm, not sure if that is normal or not. When I do move it up and down it sounds a lot like that metal popping sound I have been hearing. So, I know this is a lot.
I 've been experiencing a vibration, or rumble in my 2006 Camry. It would happen around 40-45mph or when decelerating. Once it got into top gear it would go away. Two weeks ago I turned off the overdrive and the problem stopped. Now, I keep it off in the city and turn it back when on the highway.
View 7 RepliesLike the title says. All of a sudden when I put the car in reverse I got a rumble and the car vibrates some.
View 41 Replies2001 F250 7.3L 280k miles. Truck is new to me in the last 6 weeks. Was driving out to Glenwood Springs last night and I got a weird rear end vibration between 79 and 81 mph - couldn't say if it's a new vibration as haven't had the truck long enough. It's sort of still there over 81 but less obvious than bang on 80. Whilst the vibration was there I caught a slight dip in the road that caused a grinding noise to accompany the vibration - I'm guessing because something's was getting extra loading on the upside of the dip.
I'm away from home until Monday so my options are a bit limited, however while crawling around in the dark last night pushing and shoving stuff to see if anything was loose I noticed a couple of things:
Minor leak from pinion seal - but it has flung some spots of oil. Drive shaft 'center bearing'(? U shaped attachment on drive shaft to chassis with rubber bearing?) has play I can push the drive shaft at least a 1/4" with my hand and it seems a little sloppy but I'm no mechanic.
I'm going to check transmission fluid level today and top up if required and check the magnets, such that I can limp home as necessary avoiding 80 and get the diff checked and pinion seal replaced. Does the drive shaft bearing need changing or should it have that much play? I'm assuming it's LSD on the rear?
I am still getting used to my new Prius, just have a little over 700 miles on it. I recently noticed something very strange with the car - if I am in "Ready" with ICE off, and I put it in drive and release the brakes, but do not press the accelerator, the car will slowly move forward, just like a regular auto transmission. After about 1 second the speed will reach about 2 mph and I can feel a very small rumble in the cabin and a very light vibration on the steering wheel. It sounds like a very low frequency bass, and it lasts for less than a second.
It goes away and the car continues to accelerate up to about 5mph (the accelerator is still not pressed). This sound is almost unnoticeable, and it does not happen if I release the brake and immediately press the accelerator, it only happens while creeping forward very slowly. I was able to make this sound/vibration last longer by "riding" the breaks and keeping the speed around 1-2 mph, it is very faint and I have really listen to it. To me I believe it is caused by some resonance/harmonics in MG2 turning at extremely low RPM, at least it "feels" somewhat "electric"...
I have a 2004 Mustang convertible V6 auto with 140K miles. The car has a rumble-strip like vibration that will come and go at any speed. But seems to be most noticeable at highway speeds when the car hits a ruff spot in the road. It will rumble for a short while the gradually go away. It can be more pronounced sometimes than other times.
The car did hit a curb with the right side front tire, enough so that the tire had to be replaced and did scuff up the wheel pretty good also. Had the one tire replaced, all tires balanced and rotated. Front-end alignment done.
Engine and transmission both seem to operate smoothly. New plugs, wires and throttle body cleaned. New brakes all four. I have noticed the ball joint on the front right does have a small amount of play?
I bought a 2005 wagon from a local dealer with 21K miles, the 1.8T, an automatic and 4mo. It was certified and still has 2 yrs and 24K miles on the warranty.
Anyway, I there is a rattle/rumble/vibration anytime the engine is at about 1200 RPM. I usually happens on small inclines, and doesn't matter if you are decelerating through 1200 or accelerating through it is makes the noise. I can get it to sustain itself if i keep it at 1200 on the gas or on the brake.
I am hoping it is just a heat shield that rattles at the certain frequency the engine makes at 1200, but I don't know. It is kind of right at that point where the transmission engages and disengages, torque converter?
I have 1997 Mazda 626 I4 5 speed manual transmission with 140k on it.
All of a sudden I am getting a horrible reoccurring vibration and noise that sounds like I'm driving on a rumble stripe at about 60MPH coming from the front end when accelerating.
It speeds up as I accelerate.If I push down my clutch or let off the gas it goes away immediately. While turning right it will go away immediately until I straiten it back out.It happens in any gear at any speed in any weather although it seems more likely to happen when everything is cold.It isn't always there and there seems to be no rhyme or reason as to when it happens or clears up.