Ford Transmission :: 2001 F250 - Vibration And Grinding Noise When Drive Over A Slight Dip In The Road
Sep 18, 2015
2001 F250 7.3L 280k miles. Truck is new to me in the last 6 weeks. Was driving out to Glenwood Springs last night and I got a weird rear end vibration between 79 and 81 mph - couldn't say if it's a new vibration as haven't had the truck long enough. It's sort of still there over 81 but less obvious than bang on 80. Whilst the vibration was there I caught a slight dip in the road that caused a grinding noise to accompany the vibration - I'm guessing because something's was getting extra loading on the upside of the dip.
I'm away from home until Monday so my options are a bit limited, however while crawling around in the dark last night pushing and shoving stuff to see if anything was loose I noticed a couple of things:
Minor leak from pinion seal - but it has flung some spots of oil. Drive shaft 'center bearing'(? U shaped attachment on drive shaft to chassis with rubber bearing?) has play I can push the drive shaft at least a 1/4" with my hand and it seems a little sloppy but I'm no mechanic.
I'm going to check transmission fluid level today and top up if required and check the magnets, such that I can limp home as necessary avoiding 80 and get the diff checked and pinion seal replaced. Does the drive shaft bearing need changing or should it have that much play? I'm assuming it's LSD on the rear?
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No codes, transmission makes a slight grinding noise when putting it into reverse only. Has a slight bump from 1st to 2nd. I flushed 16 quarts of the sp3 through it. Been researching and see a lot of talk about the output and input sensors. Not my car but my sisters. Needs axles, timing belt water pump, ps return hose, plus have champions in there and old ass hyundai wires.... thing does idle rough, motor mounts are new.
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Starts getting loud above 35mph, local tire shop recommends replacing the struts- says they are causing bumps in the tire because the tire is bouncing along as I drive. I did feel bumps going across the tire when I passed my hand across it.
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I've recently been hearing a grinding/vibration noise on takeoff. I only hear it pretty much as soon as my foot comes off the brake, when the car is in drive, and the car gets its first bit of forward engagement/movement. It seems to only happen when the DSG engages in drive, before I put my foot on the gas pedal.
The closest thing I can say it sounds like is an exhaust rattle, but way less violent/not metal on metal sounding.
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My 2006 RAV4 Sport 4WD, 80K miles, is making a light rumbling or light vibration noise as I drive down the road. It's intermittent, and will generally stop making the noise when I let off the gas (auto trans). It happens at different speeds and will always quit if I let off the accelerator, but doesn't always quit if I step on it. It's just faint enough I can tell it's there, and doesn't sound or feel very severe. I probably would never notice it if my stereo was on. I thought it might be my Bridgestone tires, which have less than 10K miles on them, but I would think the noise would continue even if I let off on gas.
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The truck is in my Sig 01 F250 5.4
Just got back from a long trip with it. Parked it for 3 days, all was running fine. Went to dinner Sat night and all was great, left the restaurant and as soon as I started the engine I noticed a slight vibration. As soon as I hit 42 miles per hour, it started shaking pretty good. I pulled over and checked under the truck to make sure I did not have anything I was not supposed to hanging down.
Driveshaft looked good, nothing leaking from rear end or tranny. When it does vibrate, the Tach shows the unhappiness as well. This a.m. driving to work it was vibrating at all speeds and shifting was very rough, had a hard time deciding if it wanted to be in second or third gear. I don't think this is drive train issue... When it shutters and sputters at 40ish MPH, its almost like it loses power and I have to let off the gas. and then under power it shakes badly.
I had the super chip settings for performance tow when this started and then I changed it back to stock settings, thinking it might work, which it only got worse. Changing the settings with the Superchip you have to disable the fuel system and I do this by pulling the fuel pump fuse under the hood in the power distro box.
I think the ujoints are still good, the oil and tranny fluid are spot on. Hubs are locked but in 2WD. Had all the front end replaced 15K miles ago. Brand new tires and wheels in Sept, front end alignment done at same time, front brakes were 90% and rear brakes at 20%.
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I have a 2001 f 350 7.3 diesel r 400 tranny 320000 miles. . Im having transmission issues. It makes a slight whine/ grinding noise only in first And reverse. And it surges. Sometimes its fine though to. Check engine light came on. Only codes i get are #4 glow plug out and a low boost pressure. Checked boost before fixin Running fine at the normal about 20 psi. ive read a bad or dirty map or iat sensor can cause transmission issues along with the low boost error code. But in my experience and some reading it sounds like a stall converter.
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2002 Ford F250 4x4 Superduty Lariat (4 door). Just changed the locking hubs to a new set of Warn manuals. I began to periodically hear what sounds like a rumbling/bearingish/howling kinda sound. Happens when you hit a bump at any speed...then howls till you hit another bump..goes away..then process repeats. Come to a complete stop, and the sound usually goes away till you hit another bump. The hubs are "free" at this time.
Heres the weird thing...when the noise starts...I switch it into 4 wheel drive on the dash...the sound instantly goes away. Click it back outta 4 wheel drive (hubs are still unlocked this whole time) and the sound is gone. drive some more down the road, maybe hit a slight bump, and the sound returns. Switch it back into 4x4...sound instantly goes away. Its not really in 4 wheel drive, cause the hubs aren't locked in...but that cures it till I take it back out. What could be causing this howling ? Its getting worse, and you can feel a slight vibration in the floor now when its doing it.
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A little about my truck. E99 F-350 crew cab long bed dually 4x4 223K miles. 4.10 gears with LS in rear.
I bought the truck June 2016. I ended up wrecking the truck on the test drive. Thought it was a 4 way stop and pulled out in front of a lady and she ran into the passenger side tire. Only damage that was on the truck was a busted tire, and the fender smashed in. Some how missed the door and the bumper.
I replaced all the front end: u-joints, ball joints, steering linkage, brakes, rotors, calipers, and all the u-joints in both of the drive shafts, also changed the fluid in both axles.
I have started to notice a slight "vibration" "shimmy" while driving down the road. Mainly while in a curve or changing lanes; applying pressure to the steering wheel one or the other. Tires have been balanced, and rotated several different times now with no luck at all.
While backing up, I can feel something "popping" "clunking" especially while turning. Like backing out of a parking space.
Insert troubleshooting:
Jack truck up and put on jack stands.
- Pull and shake all tires. --No movement
- Put in drive and watch all the rear end. --Nothing shaking or out of sync.
- Put truck in 4wd, hard to engage, watch front end. --Nothing shaking or out of sync.
- Turn tires to full lock. --Drive line starts clanking and shaking and rear tires acting funny.
- Turn tires straight. --Problem goes away.
- Put truck back in 2wd. --No problems when turning wheel lock to lock.
- Drive to empty parking lot. --Mainly feel problem while backing up, really have to feel for it. Most people call me insane.
- Lock the front axle. --No difference.
- Put in 4wd. Drive straight --No difference.
- In 4wd while turning. --Truck wants to act like it is fully locked in the rear and will bind up and slip a tire. You really have to give it some fuel to make it even try to move, and its almost like the truck wants to fold in half on itself. Cant keep the steering wheel in one spot as it keeps "jumping" on me.
- Put in 2wd. --Acts the same way until the truck fully comes out of 4wd then smooths back out to where you have to really feel for it. 4wd light stays on forever, before going off later in life.
- Put in 4low. --Gears grind and will not engage.
Would this indicate that the transfer case is messing up on me? Why would the rear axle feel like it is locked when in 4wd?
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Have an f350 4x4 diesel that when I drive slow and especially turn to the right it makes a grinding noise. It seems to either go away or just gets muffled by road noise when cruising. The ball joints were bad so I replaced them and I figured with this especially when I turn right it had to be a wheel bearing so I replaced both of them and still same thing. Don't want to throw money at it hoping to fix the issue. Also front duff is full of oil.
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2004 Santa Fe, after starting car the brakes make a grinding noise, the nthe ABS, ESC and 4 wheel drive light come on. After the initial grinding the noise stops and the brakes work fine. Just the lights stay on.
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5.0L ... I'm having one of those moments, you know after you do a mod to your truck and all of a sudden you notice something about your truck that could have been there all along but now you notice it as something new? Ok earlier in the week I had my exhaust resonator removed and replaced with a straight-pipe by a reputable exhaust shop. IMO the work looks to be pretty good for what it is.
That said I have always been nervous about getting exhaust work on any vehicle because it always seems like tampering with or removing the OEM plumbing for aftermarket or custom work tends to develop a vibration at some point.
So here is what I've noticed over the last couple days, when driving my truck it is extremely smooth, almost like glass. When I come to a complete stop say at a traffic light about 1-2 seconds after making the complete stop I feel this slight harmonic vibration in the steering wheel. For those of you that have an iphone it would be like having your phone bolted to the steering shaft somewhere and it on constant vibration if that makes sense.
Just to prove it only happens when I'm sitting still and idling in (D)rive I sat in my driveway with the truck idling, set the park brake and released the brake pedal holding the truck in place in (D)rive with the parking brake. No vibration, smooth as glass engine idle, as soon as I put my foot back on the brake pedal the vibration comes back. It's as if the extra draw of applying the brakes puts an extra load on some sort of accesory drive or componant under the hood and the result is this harmonic vibration.
Just so everyone knows, the vibration is very noticeable to me because I drive the truck daily, most people wouldn't pick it out if I didn't tell them first. Case in point if my wife drives the truck she can't feel it unless I tell her what to look for. There are going to be some of you that just say my truck doesn't do this and has had a smooth idle for XX,XXX miles I believe you but let me know now that I have explained exactly what to look for. Like I said for all I know it's done this since day one.
I have a feeling that the straight pipe might have been welded in slightly longer than the oem section that was removed thus putting more tention on the exhaust and engine if that makes sense, the end result being a slight vibration?? I know that manufactures put these little rubber bushings along the exhaust system on cars/ truck to absorb harmonic vibrations and for all I know my resonator might have been designed to balance out harmonic vibes in the exhaust system as well as quiet down the exhaust.
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When I drive my 2010 Toyota Corolla on a rough tar road, i feel dashboard vibration on the drivers side. The vibration is sensed in the instrument panel and also around the window. This happens if the tar road is rough or uneven. Is there anyway to remove the top of the dashboard and insulate it?
I live in sunny South Florida, so the heat makes the plastics in these corollas rattle or vibrate more, going over rough tar roads.
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I am experiencing a slight vibration with in drive or reverse but not when it is in neutral. I change the spark plugs and checked the PCV. I have the latest model already and I replace the gasket in the PVC. There is no errors in VAGCOM.. What could be causing that? Mounts???
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I'm not sure if this is normal, but I have noticed a slight vibration in the steering wheel. This happens when the engine is completely warmed up and If I'm sitting at a complete stop in drive (no air conditioning, seat warmers, or headlights on) it happens. It is not a vibration where the idle goes up and down. The rpm gauge shows that it is between a consistent 550-600 rpms. When the headlights or air is on, the idle goes to around 700-750 and the steering wheel vibrations go away. I do not have any cel on and I know the car is not miss firing. I think it's just because the low idle.
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I am experiencing a slight rumble-strip-like vibration/noise when veering to the right. There is no noticeable vibration when driving straight or to the right - sounds like it's coming from the front. I thought it was my tires but had them rotated with same symptoms/ I first noticed this shortly after I had them rotated in July. So it's probably front suspension.
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I purchased a 2000 F250 7.3 4x4 (auto transmission) about 8 months ago. I've noticed recently that when I accelerate there is a slight hesitation like there is slack in the drive line. This does not happen when the truck is moving and I accelerate. There is not audible clunk and the hesitation is not in the motor.
I checked the u-joints and they all feel tight. There is a little slack in transfer case that allows me to turn the drive line slightly back and forth. Is this normal? Should I be planning on a transmission or transfer case rebuild soon?
Update: I was researching the leaf spring isolator pads (mine are warn out or missing) and it sounds like these can cause something similar to what I am experiencing. I am planning on pulling a 28' travel trailer from Colorado to Wisconsin next month and would like to avoid any issues if possible...... Obviously, I know ....
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I have a 2001 Accent with a auto-transmission. The engine is a 1.6 and the car has about 100,000 miles on it. I had it since about 5 years with about 48,000 miles.
While driving cross country a couple years the car developed a whining noise at about 25 mph. As speed is increased, the whining became louder. I have driven it like this ever since, moderately, never pushing it. Starting a couple months ago, the noise has become louder at 40 to 45 mph and there is considerable vibration.
I know the tranny in this car is known for many different problems. I'm just wonder what the thoughts are of others more familiar with this transmission as to what could be the issues ( a certain bearing going bad between gears?, maybe not a tranny issues ...just random ideas on my part ).
BTW, I have never had an error code develop for this transmission.
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Noticed this morning that the truck appears to have a screeching/grinding noise while going straight down the road. If I go a bit of speed and stop the engine and exhaust from revving and making noise and just let it roll I can hear it and hear it better by sticking my head out my window. My engine and 5" straight pipe hide it well while im going though. I think its coming from my front driver side but im not 100% exactly sure. What it could be? I know there are a lot of variables to cover but any ways to check things out? Also! I can hear it slightly while reversing slowly.
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I've got a 2012 F250 SD and when i go over some bumps in the road or even down a gravel road, the door panel on the driver side vibrates and it's noisy. Is there any way to pull the panel and add some foam padding or something to stop this? I can see the panel vibrate or heck, maybe it the whole door.
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Early 99 F250 7.3 Manual 4WD Extended Cab Short Bed
I am at a loss. I have a slight vibration/medium roar seemingly coming from front. I have tried fixing/replacing several things, with no luck. When I get above 35-40 mph, I can hear a whirling vibration that sounds like tire tread noise (very little tread on tires). When I tap the brakes, seems to make a difference, seems to get louder as I slow down. I can feel it in the clutch and accel. pedals. It is consistent, when I push clutch in and let idle at 45mph, it is still there. Doesn't seem to make a difference when swaying back and forth, maybe a little. When i get below 25-30mph it isn't noticeable.
Here is what i've done so far :
1.Replaced both front wheel bearing assemblies, rotors and brakes
2.Replaced drivers side brake caliper (seemed to be sticking a bit?), will do passenger side tomorrow
3.Serviced both hub locks and verified front axle is not engaged (one was locked for some time, I thought I found issue, but still have vibration)
4. Tightened pitman arm joint, was slightly loose (need to replace)
5. Inspected tie rod ends and other joints, see no noticeable movement, but have not marked them off the culprit list.
6. Tightened output shaft nut, was a little loose
7. Raised rear end off on jack stands, and revved up to 50 mph, and no vibration, so I have excluded u joint and cardan joint, everything points to front end
8. Rotated tires, left front to right rear
What I haven't done :
1. Have a leak in pinion seal, not replaced yet
2. Seems the upper and lower ball joint had the slightest, I mean slightest play in it when lifting the front driver side wheel (I mean less than 16th inch) but could hear it. I haven't done anything with this yet ... may be the problem? Would a tire out of balance wreak this much havoc with this amount of movement?
3. Haven't replaced the pitman arm joint, will but not sure if this can create issue.
Nothing I've done seems to make a difference.
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