Golf V R32 :: Noticed Slight Non - Metallic Vibration Noise
Sep 6, 2010
I know it's stupid but rattles and vibrations in an otherwise quiet car drive me absolutely crazy.
So, driving I have noticed this slight non-metallic vibration type noise. It seemed to come and go. So I emptied the car thinking it might be something I was carrying around. No such luck. Turned off the climate control, still there. I had the better half drive while I searched. I could never really see anything but thought it sounded like it might be either in the dash or around the floor area. Totally frustrated I unbuckle my seatbelt and crawl into the passenger floor head first. Nothing on the passenger side. I glance over to the Driver side footwell and notice the slightest vibration from a panel that covers the steering shaft as it goes through the firewall right behind the pedals. Aha! A plastic panel being held in place by 2 plastic type screws that are both loose. i tighten them down with a straight screw driver when I get home and silence! The rattle goes away. You might look at yours as well. I think this might apply to all Mk5 cars. Finding/Fixing a rattle like this for me is like finding money.
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I've recently been hearing a grinding/vibration noise on takeoff. I only hear it pretty much as soon as my foot comes off the brake, when the car is in drive, and the car gets its first bit of forward engagement/movement. It seems to only happen when the DSG engages in drive, before I put my foot on the gas pedal.
The closest thing I can say it sounds like is an exhaust rattle, but way less violent/not metal on metal sounding.
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I have been experiencing a slight wheel vibration from the rear of my R32? I am thinking about replacing my wheels and tires, (continental sport contact 2 is what I have now) I have heard that the continental tire has an aggressive tread pattern because i get a tire noise above 45 mph.
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I am experiencing a slight rumble-strip-like vibration/noise when veering to the right. There is no noticeable vibration when driving straight or to the right - sounds like it's coming from the front. I thought it was my tires but had them rotated with same symptoms/ I first noticed this shortly after I had them rotated in July. So it's probably front suspension.
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Had my JoeZ exhaust installed at my first oil change at the dealership about a month ago.
Anyway, late last week I noticed on cold start in the morning I'm getting a metallic vibration noise. This is on gentle acceleration out of my subdivision. It disappears within a minute or less and doesn't re-occur until the next morning. Best way I can describe the sound is a cell phone set to vibrate sitting on an aluminum cookie sheet.
Any hints on what I can check that might be the culprit? I already checked to see if the muffler tips are hitting the exhaust diffusers but they're clearing and I can reach up around the canisters and fit my hand up around them so they're not touching that silver heat shield material.
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I am in the process of replacing the front hub seals so my ESOF works again. I tested both front hubs with a mityvac and neither one of them holds any vacuum at all. All the lines are good, and the pump and solenoid seem to be working fine.
I have the driver's side apart and I have a couple of questions.
What's a good source for the vacuum seal? I've checked rockauto, riff raff, and diesel o-rings. Diesel o-rings has it, but the description says it's only for 2003+ Excursions so I didn't order it.
There is no yellow o-ring anywhere on the hub. I assume that someone forgot to put this o-ring back in and this is why I don't have ESOF? I guess what I really want to know is that there isn't some 2000-specific thing where there's no o-ring, right?
After I got the hub off, I spun it around on my workbench and it doesn't sound good at all. It makes a slight metallic grinding noise about 1/2 way around. I assume this isn't normal? AFAIK these are all original parts - but the missing o-ring means to me that someone already had it apart.
There was a lot of water intrusion and rusty colored grease but nothing was dry, the needle bearings were intact and the shaft isn't scored at all where the bearing rides. I'm hoping new seals and good cleaning and it should be good as new. And then it's off to the next side.
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I recently was driving down my road in an ice storm from work and slid sideways into what I think was a depressed storm drain. (Lots of snow as well so unable to tell what exactly what it was) I hit the right front tire/rim into it. It was the loudest thud, one where you would think the tire came off. Nothing apparent visually, but on the highway it did create a slight vibration so i had both front tires re-balanced. Again, still a vibration about 35mph and up. Rebalanced again and still the same exact vibration.
It's not like hand numbing on the steering wheel but annoying and when you know you car in and out you know what vibrations are supposed to be there and which ones aren't. The tire place said the rim was not bent. Has anyone else had a similar experience? I was thinking of switching that right front tire to the back to maybe see if that worked with the vibe. Next step would be an alignment but the tire place insisted that wasn't the problem since I had one in November when the snows went on.
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2015 GTI have a slight vibration at Idle speed is this normal I have a 2008 a3 that car doesn't do it, it's almost like it's misfiring I know the car switches between direct injection and port injection?
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In the last week i have noticed a slight vibration and click in the 6mt on my 2010.
It happens when i have the car in gear, and was accelerating but then lifted off the gas without taking the car out of gear. what happens is about a half a second after lifting, the gear shift gets a little shake for a tenth of a second, which comes right with a faint click (like a solenoid clicking) which is from right about mid right thigh in the middle console. it also is louder and more vibration in the lower gears, almost unnoticeable in 6th
I never noticed this before, its rather annoying in traffic. Thinking I want to take the car in to see if something needs work.
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Driving home from work today I hit the largest pothole in my life (seriously). I had a slight vibration between 40-50mph after the impact. Got home took the wheel off and it bent it partially and bubbled the sidewall of the tire. No worries I have the VW wheel/tire protection and can get it repaired and get a new tire. What really concerns me is the right side axle. It clearly hit the frame of the car and is indented slightly. As I turn the axle by hand I can tell it's slightly off on one side. My question is do I need a new axle? Or do you think the indent is throwing me off when I spin it making it look unbalanced?
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So having done a single track day, I feel like my rotors must have warped, as there is now a slight vibration when applying the brakes. This is very surprising as I don't do anything out of the ordinary, and tried to use brakes intelligently, including a proper cool down lap and so on. Is this normal? What are my options for making life better? Is there some set of rotors I should get that wouldn't be prone to warping like this? Is it a question of pads?
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I've been working on my car for a few weeks now and I've been doing my best to figure out. The source of this sort of 'metallic grinding' that I'm hearing within the cabin. I cant seem to pinpoint where it's coming from within the engine bay with the hood open (maybe due to the magnaflow exhaust diffusing the sound from the outside of my car). I can easily hear noise when I'm inside however with indications its coming from the lower central area of the engine bay. I drive an '04 Volkwagen GTI 1.8T
In the days I've been working on it I've replaced the:
1. Timing Belt (and tensioner pulley/tensioner dampener)
2. Water Pump
3. Serpentine Belt
4. Thermostat (and housing)
5. Clutch disk and flywheel (from a SMF to a LUK DMF clutch)
6. CV Axles (both drivers and passengers)
7. Clutch Cylinder Slave
8. Wheel Bearings (front left and right)
9. Rotors (Front Left and Right)
Diagnosis**
The car starts without any problems just as it use to prior to the replacements done. BUT it's once I get the car moving where I begin accelerating I start to hear a dull grinding noise/rumble that becomes more and more apparent the faster I go. It seems the sound is directly correspondent to wheel movement upon accelerating. Nevertheless I could be wrong.
I had a friend tag along to diagnose the sound and to him it sounded similar to the "tunneling of air not being properly sealed" but to me it sounds like a metallic grind. My friend also mentioned that he felt it was louder towards the passenger side in contrast to the drivers. As mentioned before the sound is reproduced anytime wheel movement occurs. I've checked torque spec for every replacement job done to the car so there are no loose bolts/nuts/brackets. (but there are exceptions, which I will get to).
Knowing that I've replaced both of the wheel bearings (and hub assembly) I can only assume the sources isn't from there. But I do admit a few mistakes while I had the car on jacks.
1. During the timing belt replacement I thought I would need to remove the exhaust (because I felt it would interfere with the lowering of the engine) so I, (without success), tried to remove the connection between the "bend of the exhaust" to the manifold which were 4 'turbo studs'. I had the worst time with the removal of studs but I was able to impact one them off, and as I tried another the strength of the impact broke one them half way through (meaning that I was able to unthread it a few threads but it snapped in the process, so I would need to somehow drill it out in order to replace it). This is where I gave up and did my best to install the one I had removed. Which I could only get threaded half of the way in.
-All in all I have 1 broken stud that still making a connection, and 1 protruding stud out of the 4 that connects the exhaust to the manifold.
Question: Can this be the cause of the sound? Without the full connection of 4 studs bolting exhaust to the manifold? Can this be the sound That my friend was referring to as the "tunneling air not being properly sealed"?
2. The second "mistake" isn't necessarily a mistake but a fault I found later that has to do with the Passenger CV Axle. I read a few forums here and read that it could be a problem with the axles, so I put the front end on jacks once again and found that there was a bit of movement of play on the axle shaft itself. In detail, the 2 connection points for the axle both at the Output differential flange and Hub assembly are secure and torqued to spec without any loose bolts.
BUT the rod itself seems to shift about a 1/2" between these two connecting points.
Question: Could THIS be the problem? With this type of 1/2" shift in the rod is it possible it can recreate the dull metallic grinding I'm hearing so much?
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I put some 10mm hubcentric spacers from Avenue Autosport on the front of my car and got some slight vibration like the wheel wasn't centered very well. I decided to take them off to make sure they were the source of the vibration, and the car seems to ride a bit better/smoother in general without them (and the vibration when away).
I noticed that they didn't fit as tightly as my 15mm ECS spacers that I have in the rear, and my question is: are these spacers crappy in some way and I should order 10mm spacers from ECS, or are spacers in general not a great idea for the front wheels if you want your car to feel perfectly smooth and tight.
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So I just developed a slight vibration in the steering wheel and the floor last week. It happens when I drive with my foot barely on the gas or coasting. If I punch it, the vibration goes away. Also, if I punch it from a stop and take my foot off the pedal I can hear a knock as the car lurches starting to decelerate and its only one knock. I thought it might be the driver side strut bushing because I recently replaced the passenger side but not the driver. So today I replaced the driver but that did not solve the problem. I have fairly new tires all around. I am not sure if it is tie rods or cv joints. All my boots on the cvs look good. What to check. Oh maybe also motor/trans mounts???
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1.8T Car only has 73k on it.? When I am sitting at a stop I can hear a vibration sound coming from the engine bay. It goes away as soon as RPMs hit about 2000. My best guess is old, worn out engine mounts.
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Starts getting loud above 35mph, local tire shop recommends replacing the struts- says they are causing bumps in the tire because the tire is bouncing along as I drive. I did feel bumps going across the tire when I passed my hand across it.
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With normal acceleration my ex up shifts at about 50-55 mph and makes a shuttering noise and has a slight vibration briefly during the up shift. Could a tranny fluid change work?
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I started to notice a slight vibration coming from my front end on the drivers side last week and now is pretty loud. It increases with acceleration, fades slightly when turning left, and goes away almost entirely when turning right. Tie rods seem fine. The inner and outer cv boots are torn but have been that way for some time.
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So sometimes (only sometimes, of course) when I step on the brakes, I get a slight vibration of the steering wheel. Doesn't seem to make a difference if it's gentle or not-so-gentle braking. Brakes cold or warm doesn't make a difference either. Nor does traveling in a straight line or not at that moment.
My understanding is that "warped" brake rotors are mostly a myth these days, especially for our beefy/hefty rotors. The car did not used to do this.
Rotors are "OEM slotted" from ECS, pads are Porterfield R4-S. All are well within tolerances. I know it's not an out-of-balance wheel, because wheels were swapped front to back not too long ago and there was no change.
So what else ought I check out? Tie rods/ends? Ball joints? I don't know all that much about this aspect of stuff..
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Here's the deal:
1. My 2002 SC430 with 23,000 miles on it is making a low rubbing noise when slowing down, with a slight vibration, not severe enough, but it is annoying and frankly surprising on this car. The dealer tells me it's because the brakes have "glaze" on them, and short of a new brake job, you can jam on the brakes to clear or loosen some of this and reduce the noise. ( I live in the desert so I'm sure I could find a deserted stretch or road for this craziness...) The dealer reports the brakes have 70 - 80 percent life on them and I don't need a brake job.
2. Power steering. I thought this particular car was just hard to steer, but even the tech at the dealer commented it's like I have no power steering. I test drove two other cars, and the steering is markedly lighter on the other two SC430's I drove. (2002 and 2005) Dealer can't seem to find an explanation, but I have to drive this car with two hands around town... I know this is not the way this car was intended to feel.
I don't believe the car changed that much from the 2002 model so as to affect the steering. BTW, I'm using stock tires, not run flat, 4 months old. And the steering is stiff at idle anyway, regardless of tires. The first SC I drove, which sealed the decision to buy one, was so quiet I didn't know the engine was running, easy to steer, and smooth.
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I think I have a bad prop shaft CV joint. The car has been intermittently making a metallic clicking noise from the middle of the car. It can happen at any speed, a slow crawl to the highway. The frequency is completely tied to speed over the ground and seems to be once per revolution of the prop shaft. I put the car up on a lift yesterday and slid back the heat shield under the CV joint and bearing in the middle of the prop shaft. There is grease there that looks like it was thrown off of the shaft. Can the CV joint be replaced by itself or am I looking at replacing the entire prop shaft assembly?
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