Acceleration - Pontiac - Grandprix :: Grinding / Rumble / Vibration Coming From Front Along With Power Loss
Oct 2, 2013
Car: 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GTPEngine: 3.8L SuperchargedMileage: 94,300 miles
Issue : Usually after driving the car for a long period of time (approx 20 miles or more), Ill begin to hear a grinding coming from the front of the car. The grinding/ groaning can be felt in the gas pedal as well. Depending how hard I hit the gas the frequency increases. I am not sure if this is associated with the grinding, but i noticed that when I turn sharply and go easy on the gas and progressively add pressure the car will cut out until i cut straighten the wheel. Then all the power I requested is applied all at once.
What the locals think :
CV Shafts - Sears told me the first time i went to get them checked that my CV shaft boot was a little loose, suggested changing it. Then I went back two weeks later and they denied saying that and said my cv shafts were fine. (talk about confusing)
Wheel Bearings - Someone I know said my wheel bearing could be slipping or my traction control could be on its way out, so i replaced both front bearings.
Tune up - Someone suggested it could be mis-firing, with it coming up on 100,000 miles, i did a tune up. (plugs, wires, coil packs)
Transmission - Someone said the transmission could be going bad. So i did a flush and inspected the fluid, no shavings or any sign of extreme wear. (car shifts great too.)
Clogged Catalytic converter - the cat was clogged, two new 02 sensors and a new cat didn't even solve the issue I am describing, but it does have more power now.
Throttle Body - Someone said it could be a dirty throttle body....so i had that cleaned also.
And finally, some electric temperature sensor - someone said it wasn't getting the right fuel mixture, so i replaced the sensor to remedy that.
Fuel pressure was also tested to ensure the fuel pump was doing its job, everything checked out great
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Grand prix has speed related rumble. Seems to come from RF wheel. Wheel bearing feels tight. LF front is barely loose. Car has 150k miles. Should I trust my ear and change RF? Car is quiet at 30mph. Seems to make noise at 40mph+
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Ok here's the problem. I have a 2003 grand prix se 3.1 and a 1998 grand prix gtp series II sc. Both have the exact same problem running and both had overheating issues prior to. I can start either one on a given day while cold and drive them as if nothing is wrong. But soon as either one hits operating temp, I start to hear what sounds like a rattling or sputtering like sound from under the hood, accompanied with a sudden loss of power and then the engine shuts off. Now yesterday I attempted further diagnostics with the se model GP. I let it idle rather than driving it this time, and it ran perfectly fine for about 20 mins, started to make the aforementioned noise, I revved the engine to about 2000 rpm and it kept it from cutting off and smoothed, but the second I let up, it was off and wouldn't restart till it was cooled off. Same goes for the gtp. I'm really stumped on this one.
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I just got a new car three weeks ago and I'm trying to sell my 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix GT myself. Since buying this new car, I haven't driven the Pontiac for 3 weeks. I started it tonight and it started just fine but when I started driving, I heard a clunking noise coming from the front end. I checked the wheels and didn't see anything (though I didn't check too thoroughly). It's definitely the front end. The car has about 158,000 miles on it and before I stopped driving it, it had no issues and did not have this clunking sound. I tried leaving the car running for 5 minutes at a time and then turning it off and then on again thinking it might be that I've just left it sit there but that didn't work.
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Concerning cars accelerating out of control. I have a 98 pontiac gtp. The garage has not checked out the cable yet. They were thinking it was something else. Thought they had it fixed. Still not fixed. Every time I step on the gas to go into passing gear at any speed the accelerator stay on. I have found nothing to get out of the situation except back the key off one click. Acceleration stops. I still have power steering and brakes. Then I shift into neutral and restart it while I am still going down the road. I can make the car stick on every time with out fail. It only happens when I press the peddle all the way down at once. Very dangerous to drive. I drive it because I know not to go into passing gear and how to come out of it if it does stick on. Turning it one click shuts off your head lights too. Found that out when I got it back and was driving after dark, after the garage thought it was fixed, and got to experience panic of not being able to see for a moment. I unplugged the cruise and pulled the fuse on it a long time ago thinking that was the problem. Could it be the throttle body or cable? If it is the cable why does it go back to normal right away when I click the key off one click and put it in neutral and restart it fine.
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I've got a 2007 pontiac grand prix that I picked up off a guy for $900 and so far it's been a head ache. So far, I've had to replace the power steering pump, pump lining, there's a hole in the radiator, and now a mystery problem that me and my lack of car knowledge can't diagnose.
Smoke/steam (smells burned) is coming from behind the engine and when the wheels are turned, it sounds like a high pitched grinding noise. I checked the oil, its fine. I filled the radiator with water as a temporary fix until I can afford to get the radiator fixed or repaired. Air conditioning only works on max setting. Before the problem occurred, I was pouring water into the extra reservoir when my friend started the car. Maybe the radiator sucked up some air while I was filling the reservoir.
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I noticed while driving my car there was a unusual rumble or grinding sound coming from my drivers side front wheel well. I get out and look I see a bunch of Fluid all over my wheel well. I look around turn my wheel around and see this fluids all on my rotors and suspension. Ive noticed couple weeks back the boots on the struts were ripped in two pieces from deteriorating or dry rotting (this was on both sides) and ive also been hearing some odd squeaking sound for over 15k miles every once in a while going over big bumps or train tracks. Struts go out at only 80k miles on their corolla? Yeah struts do usually lose their life around 60-80k miles but I've never seen them leak around that many miles. Is this a common issue?
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1995 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP 6 cylinder 3.4L 100,000mI'm not sure how to describe this any better, but while driving down a 55mph road my acceleration suddenly crapped out. I could still get it to go, but I had to put the petal to the floor to get there. Engine was a lot quieter, didn't have the same pep to it at all. No overheating and didn't notice a change in oil pressure. I've got a diagnostic appointment tomorrow but thought maybe I could get some ball park figures before I get there.
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I've been hearing a rhythmic, metallic ringy grinding noise coming from the driver side front end of the car that seems to be in time with wheel rotation. It happens between 5 and 40mph, worsens while the steering wheel is turned even the slightest to the right, goes away completely during left turns, reduces and becomes intermittent above 45mph, and between 0 and 5mph, as I turn the wheel to the right from any position, I hear squeaking. I recently had the front control arm, ball joints and struts replaced. It has 140k miles. What could it be?
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Just had front Rotors and 4 brake pads replaced. Afterward, I noticed after the car has been in motion for a few minutes, a low rumble sound and vibration occurs randomly and usually at low RPM 1500-2500. Vehicle is a 2009 Highlander 4 cyl at 72000 miles.
Toyota service dealer ran diagnostic check and could not find anything.
Second opinion - mechanic swears it's coming from transmission drum and beginning of trans going.
Third opinion- shocks are starting to go and likely root cause on the sound/sensation.
Fourth opinion, wheel alignment or warped rotor likely the cause.
Performed wheel alignment, slight improvement but rumble is still evident. One replaced rotor has a pronounced groove on exterior. Serviceman suggested we won the lottery and the groove came from a rock from the street hitting the rotor.
Finally, it was determined we need to replace intermediate drive shaft due to knocking sound when turning the steering wheel. Not likely related to the low rumble.
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2002 Nissan Maxima with 125K miles. When going around a curve to the left there is a noticable rumble or vibration in the right front tire area. Going straight at high speeds is smooth and quiet. I checked the large neoprene boot and it does not appear to be cracked or anything but there is a joint(I believe it is either the ball joint or tie rod) that had a lot of grease around it, even away from where it connects. Could that be the problem? I could not get under car to see exactly where grease was coming from. Just a quick check by sticking my hand up there and feeling around.
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I have a 2007 CRDi Santa Fe with 135k on the clock. Regularly serviced however in the past year we've heard a rumble / vibration coming from the vehicle.
Location feels / sounds underneath driver / front passenger footwells and only occurs on strenuous acceleration i.e off a round about going up hill. It doesn't occur at any other time.
It's been in and out of the Dealership but they haven't been able to replicate the problem.
Just recently I went to overtake another vehicle at around 100kmh when I lost all drive to the wheels. The engine was running normally, there were no warning lights on the dash but no matter how hard I pressed the accelerator i had no forward drive other than coasting.
I wondered if the exhaust was loose or an exhaust or other supporting bracket had failed but as previously mentioned the Dealership can't find the problem?
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So to start at the beginning.... Traveled across Canada East to West towing 11000lb travel trailer, no problem. Have used 4x4 in a few campsites to pull out of a pitch without spinning the wheels and causing damage to the site when it has been really wet. All good.
Got to Banff in December and the town was an Ice rink, engaged 4x4 and all good. Crossed the Rockies and the 4x4 starts making grinding noises. Up and down some mountains and squeaking, grinding noise then clunking.
I have manual hubs, disengage and the noise all goes away. Engage 1 hub and no noise. Engage both hubs, noise back.
I bought some needle bearings and went to swap them. Got hubs apart and they look good. No scoring on the drive shafts. They are not dry, but as I have them open, repack them with grease anyway.
Do more research... Remove ABS sensor and repack main bearings with grease. (broke one sensor pulling it out, too cold plastic brittle oops). Still clunking noises.
The universal joints look good, doesn't appear to be any play in them. However, the axle seal (knuckle seal) (F81Z-3254-CB) does move around a lot in it's metal casing. It is tight on the shaft, but with the hub off, I can move it in and out, and move it side to side. If I had ESOF hubs I guess they would not be locking as I'm sure there would be no vacuum in there!
Question is then, would this seal be allowing the universal joint to wobble under load in 4x4 mode? Would this wobble be the cause of the rumble? As it is labelled as a seal and not a bearing, I wouldn't of thought this would have been a loaded point, and the weight would have been taken by the associated bearings and it could be run without this seal? But if it is not this, then I'm still looking for a clue as to what is making the rumble....
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The car is a 2000 Pontiac Grand Am, 3.4 L V6, 223K miles.
I had a major coolant leak and my normal repair shop couldn't handle it due to lack of equipment. So to a local dealership I went. The following is the assessment and work performed. "Cylinder head gasket leaking coolant. 12.80 Pressure tested coolant system and found the rear bank cylinder head gasket leaking coolant down the front of the engine. Replaced both head gaskets as well as intake, front engine cover gasket, valve cover gaskets and upper plenum gasket required for repair. Topped with coolant and performed LOF. Cleaned engine compartment area and road tested. Verified condition corrected".
When driving the car off the lot after the repair, I nearly stopped and went back in to complain. The gas pedal was vibrating on acceleration and its never done that before. I figured I'd drive it around for a while and see if it shook out and it didn't. I did drive back to the dealer the same day and rode with the mechanic who agreed that the vibration is there but didn't realize it was new. He went step by step through the repair with me. All work was done from the top of the engine down so the transmission and CV joints were never touched. The only idea the mechanic had was there is a small crack in the shielding on the throttle cable along with rust. I'm tempted to replace this anyways from a safety standpoint but could this cracked housing/rusted cable be causing the vibration? During the course of the repair, this is the only part that was touched that is related to the throttle. The throttle itself is fine.
The vibration only occurs when accelerating from a complete stop. It evens out once a speed over 40 mph is reached. It does not seem to be dependent on the AC compressor running.
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On Sunday, I was driving on the highway and noticed an intermittent hum/rumble which seemed like it was coming from the front of the car. At first, I thought it was due to the road quality where you encounter cuts/cracks in the road which could cause similar hum/rumble. The condition of the road changed over to a brand new smooth surface for several miles. I noticed that the same hum/rumble was still there.
I'm not sure how else to describe this?... The tires would go through several rotations before each hum/rumble. For example, x = tire rotations and y = hum/rumble.
xxx y xxx y xxx y xxx y ...very similar to driving on rumble strips that have been placed on the road.
When I got off the highway I also noticed that this hum/rumble would occur during regular driving speeds.
I checked tire pressure all around and all was fine. Took a quick peek underneath and could not spot anything out of the ordinary.
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Engine starts then runs for a period of time until it warms up, then fans come on and then EGR clicks on and off every other second , then it eventually quits. Replaced the coolant temp sensor. And it never sets a code. Have checked wiring for shorts and nothing. Is it a ECM going bad?? When trying to drive it , it will only go about a half a block , then quits , Then will start up again.???
1990 Pontiac Grand Prix with 121000 miles. Scan shows all items within limits or normal.
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I just got new struts, brakes, rotors etc on my 95 grand prix. A few weeks later my ABS light went on.... Do I have to get it fixed right away?
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I got my car from an auction and I apparently had to do work to it and we got most problems fixed but now when i saw my fuse box i saw their wasn't a fuse in the radio so i put on in there and it can on so I thought cool it works so i turned my car off and the radio stayed on and i thought, bad fuse so i got a new fuse put it in and my car was still off and the radio stayed on. So i can't have a radio because my battery will drain. The ignition works i got a new one installed it perfectly my car is a 2000 Pontiac grandprix gtp supercharged. I've only had it for about 3 weeks ...
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Why are my ABS and Trac lights going on and off periodically?
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