Toyota - Avalon :: Radiator Fluid Not Being Going Back Into Engine When It Cools
Aug 13, 2012
99 Toyota Avalon, 3.6 L engine, 160k milesThe engine sends radiator fluid to the overflow reservoir but doesn't suck it back into the engine when it cools.My mechanic replaced the radiator, cap, and hoses...no change. So. he put a chemical in the radiator fluid that is supposed to form a plug to stop a leak. After ~5 months of waiting, still no plug...no change. Tomorrow, I'm bring it back to him. If he says it needs a new head gasket, do you agree? If so, what would be a reasonable cost? Also, this timing belt has 68,000 miles on, do you think I should have him replace it, too (since he is doing work on the engine)?Do you think I am foolish to put the cost of repairs into this vehicle? The rest of the vehicle is good. We've had it since 2000 and have kept up with maintenance and services.
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I have a 98 mitsubishi triton v6 3.0, I am confused with a issue I am having, coolant heats up and is put into reservoir tank as normal, but when car cools down it does not suck it back into radiator.
Have purchased new radiator cap.
No coolant on ground or any visible leaks in engine bay.
No white smoke when starting car or running
No sweet smell of coolant burning
No leaks inside heater
Car doesn't overheat, just pushes more coolant Into reservoir
Slight bubbles in radiator when cap off
No coolant in oil
Put a bottle of radiator leak fix in, no improvement,
Only thing is that 3 out of 5 intake manifold bolts are stuffed, they grab but don't get a tight fit, could this cause the vacuum leak not returning the coolant to radiator....
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I drive a 1999 Toyota Avalon XLE and my radiator is leaking coolant from what looks like 2-3 spots. I replaced this radiator and the new one is leaking it is pooling very lightly on the top in the ridges of the radiator, and dripping on both sides below. I want to say it is the lines but i got new clamps and I even went as far as to spray silicon on the hard plastic piece the large softlines attach too so that inside under the clamps it would form a seal. the radiator I got is a Silla radiator if that matters
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My wife has a 2007 Toyota Sequoia with only 17,000 miles on it (as of Mar 2013). It has had regular scheduled maintenance - engine oil changes, etc. However, due to low mileage, it has never had Transmission or Radiator fluid changed. All miles have been in town, short trips. Is there a need to have these fluids changed just due to the age of the Sequoia and type of miles driven. It is an expense I would rather not do unless necessary. We do plan on keeping it to well past 100,000 miles. Considering the age and miles, is there anything else that I should be watchful for or take action on?
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I tried to put a cover on the back seat and I couldn't see how to fold down the back. Is there any way do that. Toyota Avalon XLE Touring 2013.
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My '95 Avalon with 120K miles drive & handles like a Lexus. Had the power steering pump replaced 18month ago. Still has a small leak of power steering fluid. Which lines are likely to leak and how much should it cost to correct this in Colorado?
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The sunshade will go up when you push button but will not go back down when put in reverse or pushing the button. The control arms move about 2-3 inches and stops.
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Does the memory seat function remembers the back position (angle)? Or does it just remember the height and forward/backward position of the seat? The back angle position is not remembered in my 2014 Avalon Limited but I am not sure whether I should report this as a problem or whether that is just the design.
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The interior light fixture for the back seat buzzes intermittently. It only happens when the radio is on. Is this something that can be repaired easily?
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2013 Ford Fusion ... My cars thermostat runs normal all the time unless I go up hill. I drive into the mountains to work every day. It runs about 80% hot until I crest the mountain and then immediately cools back down to normal. Since its winter no air conditioning running but heat is on at times. Only 37000 miles on car. Automatic transmission.....
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I recently was given a 96 Toyota Celica 1.8L Auto 7AFE and I have been trying to troubleshoot some problems.
It started a year ago when my brother drove it to work and then after work it would not start back up. It sat for a while and now its mine. Problem is I was not getting any spark at all a while back when we tested it. I thought maybe the distributor. The other day it happened to just randomly start after a year of not starting. It made a small pop in the cylinder then boom ran just great until it warmed up and proceeded to shut down, would not restart. Checked the spark and it was very weak (yellow) and just seemed to be a slow spark, not firing as fast as I would think. Today I put a new distributor with a new cap and rotor in and boom she fires up immediately. Let it warm up fully shut it down, restarts fine, shut it down again and now it will not restart. Last time I tested fuel was fine, seems as if I am getting an intermittent spark and usually starts when it cools off.
Not sure what to do now, where to look. The wires seem ok with no corrosion but I have only worked on the 2.2L and I am lost!
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I'm pretty sure I have a blown head gasket. I have white smoke coming out of exhaust and the oil is brownish in color indicating radiator fluid is leaking into engine. The car has over 200K on it. I purchased Steel Seal. The guy I talked to from Steel Seal said if radiator fluid is dirty (which it is)than I should flush radiator before using product. I don't have money to replace the gasket and I don't have money for a new car right now. Can this be a fix that gets me through a couple months?
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92 Toyota Pickup (22RE auto). New block, rebuilt head, new water pump at 300k about a year ago. Sounds strange I know but that's what seems to have happened. Ive never been able to get heat from the truck since Ive owned it so Ive been trying to fix that. I flushed the coolant out and replaced the tstat. I brought the car to a mechanic and he put a pressure tester on the cooling system and he said it wasn't holding any pressure. He also pulled off the heater core inlet hose with the truck running and no coolant was coming out. He thought there was a blockage somewhere but how to fix it. I figured I might as well try replacing the old radiator cap with a new one so I did. Once I did this, the first time the truck went out, it overheated and the radiator crimped upper seam (on the plastic) burst outward.So all in all...something is wrong.
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The "Check Engine Light" is on. When I brought it in for the annual inspection (NY), the diagnosis was "lean fuel mixture". The fuel filter was replaced (the car has over 110,000 miles on it), and some adjustments were made in the computer, or the sensors (I don't remember which). It was found that one adjustment was effective at low speeds, and the other one was necessary for 2000 RPM. A valve cover gasket was replaced because of an oil leak, but I don't see how this could have contributed to the problem. I drove it for about 10 miles and the light went on again. What the cause might be?
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i have a 2003 saturn vue 2.2 liter engine that suddenly blew all the transmission fluid out the back. it looks like it is on the top of the transmission around some bolts up top on the drivers side, not on the bottom. could this be a seal or has the transmission blown?
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Ok, here is what happens to my car:
The engine wobbles when idling or at very low speed - some times the engine shuts down in stop and go traffic (very dangerous). Doesn't pick up speed when i try to accelerate from a stop position - the engine revs up and then the car lurches forward (suddenly) as the transmission seems to engage. The same happen when i slow down to almost very low speed and then tries to speed up. I also hear a kind of thud (transmission most probably).
The CEL is ON and some time blinks.
My OBD is showing the following codes: P0171 P0172 P1150 P0300 P0302 P0304 and P0306
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Just purchased a used 2008 Avalon from my uncle. The car hasn't been driven much the past few years. I'm driving across country right now from Chicago to Seattle. We are about half way through the trip and I notice that the engine has what appears to be water dripping out near the center of it. I have checked the fluid levels and everything appears to be normal. The coolient is full. I have read that it could be the AC dripping water, however, it is a relatively cool day 45 degrees F at the moment and we just had the heat on in the car. Is this something I should be concerned about?
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My engine temp gets too hot when revving the engine but cools down at idle. The top rad hose is hot and the bottom rad hose is cool. I'm suspecting a stuck thermostat?
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Our B5.5. wagon with 1.8t and automatic just went in for recall work. Embarrassingly, I don't even know what the recall was for, I only remember something about cars catching on fire.
Since we picked it up the AC only works for maybe 10 minutes at a time and then switches off. The engine temp gets really high and then cools back rather quickly. Occasionally the temp warning goes off. We scheduled an appointment to take it back in to the dealer but of course they can't take it till next week.
In the mean time, have any of you experienced something similar? Perhaps the AC goes off because of the engine temp sensor? Better to overheat the passengers than the motor? If so then the problem is the temp or the temp sensory?
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I don't get it. Usually after I've driven the car, either of the remotes (I've changed batteries on both) do not work. However, if I go into a store and come out 10 minutes later, both remotes will lock, unlock, open the trunk, sound the emergency horn without any problems.
I've even replaced the Keyless Entry Theft Cont Module, which is basically the Remote Entry receiver located in the trunk. I still have the exact same problem with the new receiver.
The remote fobs have new batteries, and one is brand new and programmed with a GM Tech Tool II. The system's receiver is new.
What else could it be. Why does the remote entry only work when the car has been sitting idyll for a while.
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I start the car, with AC on, radiator fan starts and within a few minutes the engine radiator fan stops working, idles rough since the AC compressor pump keeps cycling on and off and engine starts to overheat. After shutting down I check the engine cooling fan fuse and it sure enough is blown.
How do I determine as to where the short is? Is the short in the wiring somewhere or can the actual motor short out?
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