Toyota - Tacoma :: 1992 - Replaced Radiator Cap And Radiator Blown
Dec 22, 2013
92 Toyota Pickup (22RE auto). New block, rebuilt head, new water pump at 300k about a year ago. Sounds strange I know but that's what seems to have happened. Ive never been able to get heat from the truck since Ive owned it so Ive been trying to fix that. I flushed the coolant out and replaced the tstat. I brought the car to a mechanic and he put a pressure tester on the cooling system and he said it wasn't holding any pressure. He also pulled off the heater core inlet hose with the truck running and no coolant was coming out. He thought there was a blockage somewhere but how to fix it. I figured I might as well try replacing the old radiator cap with a new one so I did. Once I did this, the first time the truck went out, it overheated and the radiator crimped upper seam (on the plastic) burst outward.So all in all...something is wrong.
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I start the car, with AC on, radiator fan starts and within a few minutes the engine radiator fan stops working, idles rough since the AC compressor pump keeps cycling on and off and engine starts to overheat. After shutting down I check the engine cooling fan fuse and it sure enough is blown.
How do I determine as to where the short is? Is the short in the wiring somewhere or can the actual motor short out?
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I have a Hyundai Sonata 2006. About a month and a half ago, I got in an accident and had to have the very front of the car repaired (they replaced the radiator, a/c unit, hood and a few other smaller things). The receipt that lists everything out in detail shows that the antifreeze/coolant was filled.
Fast forward to yesterday, and I'm getting an oil change. I also asked them to check out the front tire on the driver's side, as it seemed to have a slow leak. The woman at the counter wrote down to check the front left tire. A couple hours later, the guy calls me up and tells me that they found a nail in the right tire and will patch it up but nothing in the left. He also says that I am low on coolant and that he highly recommends I get the radiator flushed. Of course I told him not to do it since the radiator was just installed last month (well within the 90 day warranty).
I got the car home, checked the coolant level, and sure enough, it was way below the L. I haven't noticed any fluid under the car in parking spots or the driveway. I figured I would call up the place that did the repair work on Tuesday (it being a holiday weekend and they were already closed) and ask them about it. The receipt does say that it is an aftermarket part, but it wouldn't need to be flushed already, right?
Around 1 AM this morning, I heard a loud bang. It was my driver's side tire. What are the odds that the mechanic thinks that driver's side is right and the receptionist thinks that it is left? Do you think that it is more likely the patch failed or that the unpatched tire burst? Who should I call first on Tuesday: the mechanics that did the repairs about the radiator, or the mechanics that did the oil change/patch job?
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I recently had my radiator replaced on my 1992 accord lx. Now I have notice that my temp. gage starts to climb up. All of the hoses are not leaking. I was wondering could this be a relay problem or a switch or motor fan. The a/c fan does come on when it is engaged.
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92 Honda Civic, it has been steaming under the hood when i drive it and it's going into the overflow tank. When I pull the cap off after it's cooled down and then refill it. I watch to see if it's flowing and it's not. My initial thought was maybe a bad water pump, however I spoke with someone today that said it could very well be the head gasket. I am tending to lean this way now as well, as there is fluid on the ground after I park it. I put down some cardboard so the next time I drive it, I can see where it's coming from... Before I spend any money I want to exhaust the basics. I know I can get a combustion leak test kit to ultimately determine it.
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My upper radiator outlet broke off when we were removing the upper hose(plastic tank) . is there any way to repair this ? I was laid off and cant afford a new radiator right now. but with it being the outlet I don't hold much hope...
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This weekend while towing a light load I noticed my FWT and EOT starting to climb rapidly, EOT reached 260 FWT I think about 240. I exited the interstate to find I had a busted radiator hose. I replaced the hose and filled the system with distilled water, but didn't add antifreeze at this time. The system wasn't completely empty.
I noticed once back on the road my EOT seemed to be higher than normal but FWT seemed to be normal. Could the lack of antifreeze cause a greater delta between FWT and EOT? I have seen articles which state do not use Ford Premium Gold Coolant, but to use CAT EL-1 coolant instead. Which should I use?
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I blew some hose in my engine and radiator fluid was spraying out of it like crazy. It's on a 1999 f150 4.6 on the passenger side near the rear of the engine but about even with the top of the engine...
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On my 92 Aero 4.0L with A/C, I need to replace the radiator but I am not sure how to move the A/C hoses out of the way to extract the shroud and the radiator.
I have viewed a video where a guy said to remove the serpentine belt and then unbolt the A/C compressor and move the compressor and hoses out of the way. Hope this means that I don't have to discharge or disconnect AC hoses. Not good for me.....
Well, the video instruction seems simple enough......but there doesn't appear to be enough "play" in the AC hoses to move them far enough to extract the radiator, and not being an AC guy (and the potential danger of releasing freon), I am at a loss.
How to move the AC hoses out of the way (without disconnecting the hoses or discharging the system) ....
Not to mention it would be great to find out what the torque specification is for tightening the AC compressor bolts for proper reassembly. And being the backyard mechanic I am, any drawings, details or diagrams that you can provide would be very useful.
BTW, I have looked in the forum for radiator removal information and none of the threads I read addressed moving the AC hoses (which of course run right over the top of the dang radiator).
If I get past these "hoses" I will also take advantage of the radiator removal to replace the fan and fan clutch and thermostat while I am there, but first things first, if you know what I mean.
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My car blew a head gasket in the fall. A friend replaced it and rebuilt the head. The head was taken to a machine shop, was not warped but was planed just a little. The engine was put back together but it continues to gunk up the radiator with yellow gunk. We put block sealer in and it today there is gunk in the over flow bottle again. This is a 1998 Honda Accord with only 103,000 miles on it when the gasket blew.
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I have a 2000 Ranger, V6 4L, and I believe my head gasket is blown, my radiator fluid goes straight to the oil pan. It has probably been leaking for a while, I did not realize it was leaking internally, I had been adding coolant for a few months but thought it was my radiator leaking because it had a crack in the housing, so I had that changed, but then a few weeks after that It gave out. I drained, and flushed the engine twice, and just parked it. My question is, should I just have the head gasket changed, or does it need a new engine because it had been leaking for a while and not sure what kind of damage it has done internally.
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So my mechanical fan came apart and punctured several holes in my radiator and my car leaked water and coolant everywhere. So it happened right after startup and I drove it until the coolant light came on, the car wasn't even to full temp.
I started the car a few times between the time I parked it after the fact and when it was finally in my garage. I had to move it into a parking lot after I parked it because it would have to sit over night. Then it was started to put it on a Tow Dolly (AAA has stupid rules, but that's another story) and when I had to pull it off. I also moved it closer to my garage door prior to actually pulling it apart.
Then after I finished changing out the radiator and filling back up with tap water and G12, the thing won't start. It turns over and is getting fuel, but just isn't firing. I didn't disconnect anything other than the hoses for the radiator, the trans coolant lines on the radiator and the coolant temp sensor. So I don't know why this would cause the car not to start.
My car:
1999 VW Passat GLS Variant
1.8T Tiptronic
Giac X Chip
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For a while now I've been having issues with my truck overheating. Generally when I slow down, come to a stop, after driving a while. The other I replaced the radiator cap, as coolant was bubbling out after driving far. Thermostat was replaced. Radiator was flushed today as there was some rusty color build up. Added engine oil as it was VERY low the other day. So far I'm still getting the overheating issues and it seems to happen more so when I run my AC. I've noticed no significant leaking from anywhere else after replacing the cap. I'm thinking of either the water pump or the fan? But I dont know how to know for sure and I dont want to replace parts that I dont have to as a waterpump alone is $50-60.
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I just replaced my radiator in my vr6 jetta. I've replaced my coolant before, with this same problem,but it never affected anything and did not find any answers. But here's the deal. It filled with about 2 gallons of mixed coolant. No noticeable air bubble sounds, coolant flows back into the reservoir. I opened my top rad hose and poured coolant in also. It is not overheating. My heater is also hot, no problems there. It just seems suspicious that my car takes so little coolant, and runs just fine. I also flushed the system with my garden hose, and let all the water drain out.
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I successfully replaced the radiator on my 2003 Ford excursion (LMD, V10, gas). I filled her up with coolant and started her and turned on the air full blast.
Noticed though that she is now leaking somewhere between the engine and the transmission pan.Where and what to check?
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1992 3.0L V-6 RANGER
New thermostat
New Water Pump
I noticed the other day that the Upper radiator hose gets Sucked Flat when RPM is higher than Idle BAD it completely collapses IDK how it can circulate the coolant very well in this Condition. If the hoses have ever been changed But the Upper hose Really gets sucked flat. I've seen this a few times on vehicles that have been shutdown But they have always expanded upon startup and are fine....
The Lower Looks Fairly Old and only partly collapses under higher RPM.... I am going to change the Upper hose at a Minimum as its really Bad and probably a lot older than I am thinking and really Soft. I am just wondering if the radiator could be plugged up causing some of this.. Or anything else I should check into????
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I bought this truck an it ran good then one day it started knocking really bad so i replaced the crank shaft an bearings. Put everything back together started the truck an it ran like crap an i just happened to check the oil an it is milky. All the water in y radiator is now in the motor oil an truck has no power...
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I have a 76 f250/460 engine. I have replaced the hoses, belts, water pump, fan clutch, flowed the radiator and it still overheats.
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I have a 1990 Toyota Corolla and the Radiator fan comes on when the car is started and it does not turn off until engine is turned off.
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I have a 1989 manual drive TOYOTA 4RUNNER, diesel. My mechanic has done everything, new head gasket, machined the head for warp, pressure tested the engine block, and the engine oil is still leaking into the radiator. My car used to have Air-condition but since it hasn't worked for over 5 years the compressor was removed, could this have caused the oil to leak after all those years.
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I have a 1990 Toyota pick up and, even though I have had the radiator removed and tested twice for leaks, I still loose fluid. I drive 30 miles - after having filled the radiator to the top - and then find it empty. The overflow radiator fluid bottle is always full to the top but the radiator will not stay full. My radiator man has told me to place a large piece of cardboard under the car to see if there are any leaks - there are non. I pay more in coolant than I do in fuel!
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