I have a 2005 Toyota Avalon. The radio will not come on if the temperature is 40 degrees or below. I have to turn on the heater for several minutes and then it will come on fine. WTH? This have been going on for years. Not a problem in Mississippi but bums me out in Denver!
View 5 RepliesMy 2007 5.7 Toyota Tundra has developed a quirky habit when the outside temperature is lower than 50 degrees, the transmission fails to change gear ratios properly until such time as the truck warms up. In other words, for the first several blocks leaving home in the morning, the Tachometer reads 2,000 at 30 MPH, but when it warms up, the tach will drop to 1200 to 1500 at 30 MPH. The truck started doing this around 40,000 miles. It now has 53,000 miles and my warranty will expire at 60,000 miles. The dealer tells me that the failure of the transmission shifting properly when cold is NOT an indication that my transmission might be in the need of repair or adjustment.
View 6 RepliesI read in a different vehicle forum that, in vehicles where the A/C condenser is mounted in front of the engine coolant radiator, when the engine coolant temperature reaches some near-overheat limit, the onboard system disengages the A/C compressor clutch so its condenser does not preheat airflow going to the radiator in an attempt to avoid overheating.
Is this the case with the Toyota Highlander (and specifically in a 2008 Hybrid Limited)???
I've recently been experiencing loss of A/C cooling when the center console outside temperature exceeds about 107 and the dashboard coolant temperature gauge is almost midway up towards H, but still closer to C. But once the outside temp reading drops back below 107, and I restart the vehicle, the A/C is once again cool.
Since coolant temperature is likely is impacted by higher outside temperatures, might the coolant temperature sender be failing or simply aged such that it is out of calibration, falsely indicating too high a reading?
How difficult is it to replace the coolant temperature sensor? Where is it located (in case it's just a corroded connection!)?
I have a 2014 Avalon Limited and love the car a great deal. I have subscribed to the Sirius Satellite radio and it's been nothing but a pain in the butt since day one . It fades in and out constantly. If I get five min. with out this happening that would be a long time . Called service and the guy told me this is a big problem with this car .... told me there were not enough towers?
Do you think it is the car or is there a problem with the Avalon and satellite reception?
I have a 2002 Avalon XLS with 160K. I recently had the clock spring replaced by a friend, which fixed what it was supposed to fix - airbag light went off, cruise works, horn works. He did disconnect the battery when he did the work.
Whenever I turn off the car, and turn it back on, the time and date have resent to default, and I lose all the radio settings like stations, bass, treble, etc.
I have to admit I'm not sure if the current problem started RIGHT after the clock spring work, or a bit later. I'm thinking I would have noticed it right away. But I know the time/date and radio settings did work right before.
I've scoured the internet and can't find an actual answer - a lot of "could be". My hope is that the "secondary, memory" power fuse is blown.
I have a 2007 Toyota Avalon Limited. For the last three years or so I get a very loud cracking noise from the Radio, I can even turn it off and it continues or gets louder. I took it to the dealer, they think it is some of the speakers. Since are 12 speakers, not sure I want to start replacing them. I thought it might be the amplifier, took to an electronics guys. He took a lot of the car around the radio apart, we could never find the amplifier. I think the amplifier is in the trunk with the GPS Disk Player. If you were going to replace something, would be the radio, amplifier, or? The only way to stop it is to remove the fuse which causes the radio and GPS screen to not work.
View 3 RepliesI seem to recall my 4.2l oil and coolant temperature staying at a consistent 200 degrees, but now my oil temp seems to hover at or slightly above 180 while coolant remains at 200.
A 5 mile high speed uphill run brought the oil temp to about 190 degrees, but it soon settled to 180 once I slowed to 80mph.
So ambient temp is about 15 degrees Fahrenheit; however, that really shouldn't make a difference with a water cooled/thermostat engine, correct?
My main concern is that lower oil operating temperatures wont allow condensation to boil off.
Starting this past winter, whenever the overnight temperature drops below 45 degrees, a loud grinding/whirring noise emanates from inside the middle of the dashboard of my 2006 Prius. The noise occurs in regular one second or so intervals, and appears to originate inside or behind the touchscreen and radio/CD player.
The noise continues for about 15-20 seconds, and then goes away. The problem won't reoccur until the car cools overnight - i.e. the grinding noise won't reappear if I start the car up again when it's warm.
I recorded the sound this morning and have attached a sample WAV file here. I had to upload it as a zip file because the upload facility on PriusChat apparently doesn't allow one to directly upload a wav file.
My husband has a 2013 Subaru Legacy, and we have noticed that on days where the temperature is below 35 degrees Fahrenheit or so, it is having trouble starting. It cranks for about 7-10 seconds prior to starting, or will not start until after a few attempts. We have owned the car for about a year, and did not notice this problem last winter.
So far, we have taken it back to the Subaru Dealer twice. The first time, they told us they found nothing wrong with the car. The second time, they tried draining and recharging the battery. Our car is still having issues starting, and we are not sure where to turn to next. Is this a known issue with Subaru Legacy? Our car is still under warranty.
I have a 2004 Subaru Legacy Wagon with around 90,000 miles on it. I purchased the car in 2008 with about 26,000 miles on it. Starting two years ago, whenever the air temperature is below 15-20 degrees, my car will develop a smell of antifreeze in the cabin when I start it and let it warm up for a minute or two. It did not do it for the first winters I owned it. I have not been able to detect the smell outside of the vehicle, and I have not been able to detect the smell in the summer months, even if the car is left idling for several minutes. The White Whale (my cars name according to my wife) was worked on by my local mechanic (where the car was purchased) last winter. They considered and replaced the thermostat, a leaking (or at least they thought it was possibly leaking) hose, and then finally after consulting over the phone with the Subaru dealer that is a little over 45 miles from my house, decided that the problem was likely the head gasket.
So at around 65,000 miles I had the head gasket replaced by the Subaru dealer. Problem is, they replaced it in March, and the temps were high enough that I couldn't really tell if the fix had fixed the original problem or not. It had seemed that the smell was at least less intense, but hard to tell. So, here we are in the midst of January, yesterday the car started beautifully (which is one reason that I love this car) after sitting outside all night at -11 degrees Fahrenheit with wind chills down to below -30. Last winter, in these conditions, the smell would be so strong that I would get nauseated driving the entire 15 minutes to work.
This winter, since the repair, the smell seems limited to only the first idling time. After that, the cabin seems to get cleared out with fresh air, and the smell dissipates. There have never been any check engine lights, the oil and coolant levels have never been a problem, the temperature is never higher than just above the mid-line on the gauge which has stayed the same all throughout the time I've owned it, and performance has been completely unaffected by the smell, other than my performance as a driver when trying to navigate in a car that reeks of antifreeze. Also, I have never noticed what some describe as a haze or liquid building up on the windshield when a heater core goes out and my mechanics, both dealership and local, assured me that this was not the problem.
Chasing a problem for sometime now with my early 99 F350 auto 7.3 w/ 134K. This problem seems to only happen when the temperature outside is lower than 20 degrees.
When approaching a hill the truck will lose top end power (2000 RPM and greater) and shudder. Basically, start at 65 and you reach the top and 45. My gauges are all normal, no codes are present, no leaks or other abnormal sounds.
Fuel pressure is good (even under load), passed buzz test, passed CCT test. Is this possibly just the nature of the beast (being cold)? Seems to go away after 30 minutes or more of driving. In the last month, we have:
-changed all fluids and filters, except in tank filters
-sensors replaced: map, ebpv (and tube), IAT, and intake spyder sensor
-boost leak checked
I purchased used 2005 Avalon couple of months back, it was having after market stereo installed on it so it screw up the controls display unit for both audio and temperature. It actually turns on and display two lines and big F on left side.
So I want to know is there a way I can fix the display to show temperature settings. Temperature controls are otherwise working even from stereo it is just not displaying anything on stereo other than big F.
I have a 2012 Avalon Limited with the automatic temperature control. It used to be that the recirculation function was controlled automatically. The recirculation function would come on when ever the outside temp was hot enough and the inside temp setting was low enough. This is also how my 2000 Avalon XLS works and how my 2014 Tundra 1794 Edition works. Both have the automatic air conditioning system. Now the recirculation function must be turned on manually in order for it work. This has just been happening for the last 3-4 months. The dealer service writer tells me that all 2010 through 2012 Avalons with the automatic temp control Air Conditioning require the recirculation function to be controlled manually. Is this really true?
The manual makes no mention of this requirement to control the recirculation function manually. The manual says that the recirculation function MAY be controlled manually, but, when the A/C is on automatic temp control, the recirculation function is turned on and off by the A/C, depending upon the outside air temperature and the interior vehicle temp setting chosen on the A/C front panel.
When I turn the car on, the sound to the radio will not work. Occasionally the screen will light up but will have no information on it. Sometimes it will turn on just fine and have all the info. Regardless the sound never comes on. All other functions are working fine like the controls for fans and climate control.
View 3 RepliesI'm looking at purchasing a 2014 ES300h. I have a couple voice command questions.
1. Can you adjust the cabin temperature by saying "driver temperature 67" ...
2. Can you adjust the radio by saying "XM Watercolors" ...
Was installing my new radio and somehow the lights for the buttons wont come on when the headlights are on. Is there a fuse i can check? Where is it located? I checked under the hood but i didn't see a fuse for dash lights.
View 2 RepliesI have an '05 Camry XLE with the in-dash touch-screen AM/FM CD Nav system. On random cold days I seem to lose my radio reception. When I turn on the radio I receive a lot of static with break-through talking or music. I've tried to change stations using the touch panel, the steering control as well as the manual tuning dial and I still got static.
I've driven to work ~40 minutes and most of them were filled with static and some break-through talking (not of the station I was tuned into though). The last couple of minutes of my drive I did get a station that said it was 98.3 but I was tuned into 95.5. No matter which station I dialed in I still received the 98.3 station.
It seems like the antenna or something in the radio was stuck or frozen. I drove the entire time with the heat blaring on feet/defrost and rear defroster on thinking it might warm something up but that didn't work.
The ABS light comes on in the dash. This is in addition to the check engine light which was determined to be a sensor. What does the ABS light mean? what will it cost to fix?
View 1 RepliesI have a 07 toyota avalon that will not start. About a week ago my wife goes to start the car and nothing. She got a jump and it worked fine for a couple of days. Then she was driving on Oct 25th and the car died out, so due to the battery being less than 6 months old the next step was the alternator. Had the alternator tested and it had to be replaced. We replaced it and it still will not turn on.
View 2 RepliesI tried to put a cover on the back seat and I couldn't see how to fold down the back. Is there any way do that. Toyota Avalon XLE Touring 2013.
View 13 RepliesI recently bought a 2005 Toyota Avalon Xls with 90k miles on it. The car has been averaging a very disappointing mpg of 11-12 in the city and around 17 on the highway. (much lower than the advertised 22/30 mpg)
At first i thought the mpg gauge could be malfunctioning, so i calculated it myself and ended up with same result: 11 mpg in the city. I haven't taken it to a mechanic yet, but plan on doing so ASAP. What could be causing this issue.