Toyota - Tundra :: Sluggish Transmission When Outside Temperature Is Lower Than 50 Degrees
Apr 4, 2013
My 2007 5.7 Toyota Tundra has developed a quirky habit when the outside temperature is lower than 50 degrees, the transmission fails to change gear ratios properly until such time as the truck warms up. In other words, for the first several blocks leaving home in the morning, the Tachometer reads 2,000 at 30 MPH, but when it warms up, the tach will drop to 1200 to 1500 at 30 MPH. The truck started doing this around 40,000 miles. It now has 53,000 miles and my warranty will expire at 60,000 miles. The dealer tells me that the failure of the transmission shifting properly when cold is NOT an indication that my transmission might be in the need of repair or adjustment.
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Chasing a problem for sometime now with my early 99 F350 auto 7.3 w/ 134K. This problem seems to only happen when the temperature outside is lower than 20 degrees.
When approaching a hill the truck will lose top end power (2000 RPM and greater) and shudder. Basically, start at 65 and you reach the top and 45. My gauges are all normal, no codes are present, no leaks or other abnormal sounds.
Fuel pressure is good (even under load), passed buzz test, passed CCT test. Is this possibly just the nature of the beast (being cold)? Seems to go away after 30 minutes or more of driving. In the last month, we have:
-changed all fluids and filters, except in tank filters
-sensors replaced: map, ebpv (and tube), IAT, and intake spyder sensor
-boost leak checked
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When I bought my 2007 tundra used a year ago, it has always had a vibration that affected the whole car (not steering-wheel specific), and was worst at 60-65mph, but a hint was there even at lower speeds. It was annoying, but bearable, for example if you look at the passenger seat at these speeds, you can see it wiggle back and forth about 1/2". It seemed highway speeds were where it hit a resonant frequency.
In the past month, things have gotten much worse and when the truck has been sitting for a few days, if I quickly leave the house and hop on the freeway (only about 1/2 mile away, I get a vicious vibration mostly in the steering wheel and less so in the rest of the cab. The wheel wiggles about an inch and a half back and forth at highway speeds and letting off the gas, braking, accelerating doesn't make much of difference, just speeds up or slows down the vibration frequency.
The wild thing is that it gets much better after about 2-3 miles. No longer really shaking, just a mild vibration like it has always had. If the truck is warm and I hop back on the freeway a few hours later, no vibration, just when leaving the house in the morning.
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I have a 2005 Toyota Avalon. The radio will not come on if the temperature is 40 degrees or below. I have to turn on the heater for several minutes and then it will come on fine. WTH? This have been going on for years. Not a problem in Mississippi but bums me out in Denver!
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I read in a different vehicle forum that, in vehicles where the A/C condenser is mounted in front of the engine coolant radiator, when the engine coolant temperature reaches some near-overheat limit, the onboard system disengages the A/C compressor clutch so its condenser does not preheat airflow going to the radiator in an attempt to avoid overheating.
Is this the case with the Toyota Highlander (and specifically in a 2008 Hybrid Limited)???
I've recently been experiencing loss of A/C cooling when the center console outside temperature exceeds about 107 and the dashboard coolant temperature gauge is almost midway up towards H, but still closer to C. But once the outside temp reading drops back below 107, and I restart the vehicle, the A/C is once again cool.
Since coolant temperature is likely is impacted by higher outside temperatures, might the coolant temperature sender be failing or simply aged such that it is out of calibration, falsely indicating too high a reading?
How difficult is it to replace the coolant temperature sensor? Where is it located (in case it's just a corroded connection!)?
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I have an 05 Tundra. I was backing out of my driveway and got into the street and put the truck into drive and nothing. I then tried reverse and again no movement. No prior problems with the transmission. I cannot even find the dip stick to check the fluid. What might be wrong with this trans or truck?
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My 2008 Tundra's tranmission went out last week when attempting to shift from 4 WD high, into 4wd lo, then back into high.
I was stuck in the snow in 4wd high, then tried low, to no avail, tried the transmission in lo (which didn't engage--just 'lo' light blinking and alarm buzzer, then tried 4wd HI and there was NO transmission response, a grinding in "P' and no low, high, or anything--from Park to D, Reverse, all the gears were gone, and I was getting ready to call for a tow truck, and after grinding the P gear for a while and back into N, it went into 4wd high.
Toyota replicated the problem, after some doing, and they're trying to fix it as the 4wd acuator is a problem--it's backordered to Japan which means the truck is out of action for a month.
There are similar reports of damage and problems listed on the NHTSA website.
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Had mine for 5K service and had them check alignment. Steering felt sluggish and wheel was a few degrees off center from the day it rolled off the lot.
Both front wheels had toe-in over 1/2". Makes you wonder if this is due to spring settling.
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I seem to recall my 4.2l oil and coolant temperature staying at a consistent 200 degrees, but now my oil temp seems to hover at or slightly above 180 while coolant remains at 200.
A 5 mile high speed uphill run brought the oil temp to about 190 degrees, but it soon settled to 180 once I slowed to 80mph.
So ambient temp is about 15 degrees Fahrenheit; however, that really shouldn't make a difference with a water cooled/thermostat engine, correct?
My main concern is that lower oil operating temperatures wont allow condensation to boil off.
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i have been told new car tires will not devolope a flat spot.. then the dealer told me that that do. can't have it both ways.. i get an extreme shimmy when the temp.goes to about 45 or lower degrees but goes away after about 10 miles of driving..
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Starting this past winter, whenever the overnight temperature drops below 45 degrees, a loud grinding/whirring noise emanates from inside the middle of the dashboard of my 2006 Prius. The noise occurs in regular one second or so intervals, and appears to originate inside or behind the touchscreen and radio/CD player.
The noise continues for about 15-20 seconds, and then goes away. The problem won't reoccur until the car cools overnight - i.e. the grinding noise won't reappear if I start the car up again when it's warm.
I recorded the sound this morning and have attached a sample WAV file here. I had to upload it as a zip file because the upload facility on PriusChat apparently doesn't allow one to directly upload a wav file.
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My husband has a 2013 Subaru Legacy, and we have noticed that on days where the temperature is below 35 degrees Fahrenheit or so, it is having trouble starting. It cranks for about 7-10 seconds prior to starting, or will not start until after a few attempts. We have owned the car for about a year, and did not notice this problem last winter.
So far, we have taken it back to the Subaru Dealer twice. The first time, they told us they found nothing wrong with the car. The second time, they tried draining and recharging the battery. Our car is still having issues starting, and we are not sure where to turn to next. Is this a known issue with Subaru Legacy? Our car is still under warranty.
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I have a 2004 Subaru Legacy Wagon with around 90,000 miles on it. I purchased the car in 2008 with about 26,000 miles on it. Starting two years ago, whenever the air temperature is below 15-20 degrees, my car will develop a smell of antifreeze in the cabin when I start it and let it warm up for a minute or two. It did not do it for the first winters I owned it. I have not been able to detect the smell outside of the vehicle, and I have not been able to detect the smell in the summer months, even if the car is left idling for several minutes. The White Whale (my cars name according to my wife) was worked on by my local mechanic (where the car was purchased) last winter. They considered and replaced the thermostat, a leaking (or at least they thought it was possibly leaking) hose, and then finally after consulting over the phone with the Subaru dealer that is a little over 45 miles from my house, decided that the problem was likely the head gasket.
So at around 65,000 miles I had the head gasket replaced by the Subaru dealer. Problem is, they replaced it in March, and the temps were high enough that I couldn't really tell if the fix had fixed the original problem or not. It had seemed that the smell was at least less intense, but hard to tell. So, here we are in the midst of January, yesterday the car started beautifully (which is one reason that I love this car) after sitting outside all night at -11 degrees Fahrenheit with wind chills down to below -30. Last winter, in these conditions, the smell would be so strong that I would get nauseated driving the entire 15 minutes to work.
This winter, since the repair, the smell seems limited to only the first idling time. After that, the cabin seems to get cleared out with fresh air, and the smell dissipates. There have never been any check engine lights, the oil and coolant levels have never been a problem, the temperature is never higher than just above the mid-line on the gauge which has stayed the same all throughout the time I've owned it, and performance has been completely unaffected by the smell, other than my performance as a driver when trying to navigate in a car that reeks of antifreeze. Also, I have never noticed what some describe as a haze or liquid building up on the windshield when a heater core goes out and my mechanics, both dealership and local, assured me that this was not the problem.
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I have recently noticed that my coolant temperature indication became sluggish. Needle does not make it to "normal" temperature indication and if I turn the heater on it will drop somewhere in between "cold" and "normal" temperatures. Does it affect fuel consumption and so on? I guess maybe coolant temperature sensor is about to die.
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When taking our 2007 RX out of say a 72 degree garage to say a 90 degree day, it takes at least 10 minutes for the outside temp gauge to finally creep up to the ambient temperature. The gauge feels very sluggish at all other times.
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My 2001 tundra v8 4.7 liters. Will not go past 90 miles per hour.I'm not a speed person but I like to know my truck is in top shape.Odo reads 99073 on the i way I tried pushing it to a 100 mph but it not go, what's happening to my truck...
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Okay, 2000 Tundra (185,000 miles) starts out with usual pressure. After driving a ways pressure drops down to dangerously low and stays there (not detectable when driving, other than gauge). Mechanics measure same pressure drop using alternate pressure gauge at engine. They assumed oil pump, which would mean pulling engine, but were advised bad oil pump is very unlikely on that Tundra (and I don't think the symptoms quite suggest that), and also advised that oil suction tube could be clogged, also necessitating pulling engine, but oil has been kept fairly clean. Car also sits for long periods.
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I have a 2005 Tundra, 60K miles. Dealership just told me the frame is rusted out, with actual holes in frame under driver side. Said car was unsafe to drive or have on road. Called Toyota and opened case but said I was out of warranty and they were not accountable.
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I can hear a "ringing" noise that appears to be coming from one of the wheels. I can hear the noise when I have my windows down and am driving at slower speeds. The noise sounds similar to a bell ringing and the sound disappears when I apply the brakes.
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I had the oil changed recently in my 2008 tundra 5.7 v-8. I noticed the oil pressure gauge moving. When I started the truck, I noticed the gauge will move to the right of the indicator in the middle of the gauge and then it will go back to the middle mark on the gauge when it is warmed up. I also notice that it moves a little when I accelerate. Maybe it has done this in the past and I just have not noticed but was wondering if I should be concerned.
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My Toyota Tundra 2011, driven enough to haul a horse locally (6000 plus miles) is now unable to go above 30 mph, it was fine last week. Toyota dealer says it is both of the air injection units and switch. Of course it is out of warranty 3 months.
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