I have an 05 Tundra. I was backing out of my driveway and got into the street and put the truck into drive and nothing. I then tried reverse and again no movement. No prior problems with the transmission. I cannot even find the dip stick to check the fluid. What might be wrong with this trans or truck?
View 1 RepliesMy 2007 5.7 Toyota Tundra has developed a quirky habit when the outside temperature is lower than 50 degrees, the transmission fails to change gear ratios properly until such time as the truck warms up. In other words, for the first several blocks leaving home in the morning, the Tachometer reads 2,000 at 30 MPH, but when it warms up, the tach will drop to 1200 to 1500 at 30 MPH. The truck started doing this around 40,000 miles. It now has 53,000 miles and my warranty will expire at 60,000 miles. The dealer tells me that the failure of the transmission shifting properly when cold is NOT an indication that my transmission might be in the need of repair or adjustment.
View 6 RepliesMy 2008 Tundra's tranmission went out last week when attempting to shift from 4 WD high, into 4wd lo, then back into high.
I was stuck in the snow in 4wd high, then tried low, to no avail, tried the transmission in lo (which didn't engage--just 'lo' light blinking and alarm buzzer, then tried 4wd HI and there was NO transmission response, a grinding in "P' and no low, high, or anything--from Park to D, Reverse, all the gears were gone, and I was getting ready to call for a tow truck, and after grinding the P gear for a while and back into N, it went into 4wd high.
Toyota replicated the problem, after some doing, and they're trying to fix it as the 4wd acuator is a problem--it's backordered to Japan which means the truck is out of action for a month.
There are similar reports of damage and problems listed on the NHTSA website.
My 2001 tundra v8 4.7 liters. Will not go past 90 miles per hour.I'm not a speed person but I like to know my truck is in top shape.Odo reads 99073 on the i way I tried pushing it to a 100 mph but it not go, what's happening to my truck...
View 6 RepliesOkay, 2000 Tundra (185,000 miles) starts out with usual pressure. After driving a ways pressure drops down to dangerously low and stays there (not detectable when driving, other than gauge). Mechanics measure same pressure drop using alternate pressure gauge at engine. They assumed oil pump, which would mean pulling engine, but were advised bad oil pump is very unlikely on that Tundra (and I don't think the symptoms quite suggest that), and also advised that oil suction tube could be clogged, also necessitating pulling engine, but oil has been kept fairly clean. Car also sits for long periods.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 Tundra, 60K miles. Dealership just told me the frame is rusted out, with actual holes in frame under driver side. Said car was unsafe to drive or have on road. Called Toyota and opened case but said I was out of warranty and they were not accountable.
View 19 RepliesI can hear a "ringing" noise that appears to be coming from one of the wheels. I can hear the noise when I have my windows down and am driving at slower speeds. The noise sounds similar to a bell ringing and the sound disappears when I apply the brakes.
View 4 RepliesI had the oil changed recently in my 2008 tundra 5.7 v-8. I noticed the oil pressure gauge moving. When I started the truck, I noticed the gauge will move to the right of the indicator in the middle of the gauge and then it will go back to the middle mark on the gauge when it is warmed up. I also notice that it moves a little when I accelerate. Maybe it has done this in the past and I just have not noticed but was wondering if I should be concerned.
View 5 RepliesMy Toyota Tundra 2011, driven enough to haul a horse locally (6000 plus miles) is now unable to go above 30 mph, it was fine last week. Toyota dealer says it is both of the air injection units and switch. Of course it is out of warranty 3 months.
View 10 Replies2006 Toyota tundra starting problem only intermittently, id say about half the time recently it does this. Ill go to crank my truck, turn the key over and it makes a loud CLICK/thud under the hood. Lights go dim, clock shuts off etc. Turn the key off and back on, CLICK. I have to repeat this 3-4 times before starting sometimes. And once or twice the starter would turn over for 3-4 seconds before finally firing up. Ive check the battery and alternator at the local auto zone and a local dealership, both checked out fine. The starter is under the intake manifold. I have checked grounds/connections etc but dont see problem.
View 3 RepliesLocation of cabin filter 2003 toyota tundra....
View 4 RepliesI have a strange vibration that radiates from, i think, the drive line or transmission.
View 1 RepliesMy 2003 Tundra is showing a fault light for the SRS. It only shows when the air temperature is high. After running the A/C for the drive home, I can turn off the truck and restart it and the fault light doesn't show. That seems to indicate the fault is related to cabin temperature. What is causing the fault?
View 18 RepliesMy 07 tundra starts and then stops running it does this intermittently. I recently put in new battery.
View 2 Replies1) Why is my neighbor's late model Tundra chirping and flashing the lights at regular (maybe 20 second) intervals?
2) Why can I hear it a house away but my neighbor (at home) cannot?
3) Can I stop it? If it something like hey idiot, you left it unlocked with the keys in the ignition, maybe I can.
4) If I resort to violent methods to stop it, will I be subject to criminal penalties. or would a jury of my peers find it justifiable truckicide?
2008 Tundra 5.7 only 55K miles – What is causing an intermittent misfire at startup? It’s been running great, then 2 weeks ago when I started it up I could feel a misfire. By the time I backed out of the driveway the check engine light came on. This is what I have learned so far:
•It only happens when you start the engine and the engine is NOT at operating temperature.
•The engine code always reports misfire on Cylinder #2 I put in a new plug and swapped coils but it still reports the misfire on cylinder #2.
•Once it starts to misfire it will continue to misfire until the engine is at operating temperature and you restart the engine. NOTE: You MUST restart the engine for the misfire to go away. It will be running rough, turn engine off/on once it is at operating temperature and it's as smooth as can be, no more misfire.
•One time I started the truck, I felt the misfire and drove it to a parts store to read the code. Engine was fully warm by the time I reached the parts store. I did not power off the engine, plugged in the tester and read the code which was a misfire on cylinder 2. I cleared the code and within 2-3 seconds it logged the misfire on cylinder #2 again. Cleared the code several times and it kept reporting misfire on cylinder 2. You could also feel the misfire happening. Turned engine off, started it right back up, like before no misfire, cleared the code and it no longer reported a misfire.
•This just started intermittently happening. This morning it happened again, I drove it for about 5 min, engine was about 75% it’s normal operating temperature, powered it off/on, still had the misfire. Once engine temp reached normal temp (about 9 min), I turned off engine, started it back and like before problem was gone.
What is causing this to happen?
I have a 2008 Toyota Tundra which is vibrating intermittently about 5 to 10% of the time. I have had the tires rotated, and balanced, plus the front end looked at by a dealer. Still does it.
View 1 RepliesThe vehicle: 2007 Tundra, 5.7, 4WD, SR5, 71K miles
The issue: The Check Engine, VSC and 4LO indicators came on abruptly within 5 minutes of the first start-up of the day and after driving ~ 1/2 mile on paved road. Weather conditions: high humidity and unseasonable high ambient temperature.
What has been done: Immediately returned home. My local "guy" stopped by with his code checker. Codes that came up: C10201 and P2440 (Wheel sensor and secondary air pump, I am unsure which is which). Codes were cleared, indicators went off. Within 0.2 mile of driving "around the block" the same indicators and codes came on. My local guy recommended a trip to the dealer for repair as he would have to get sensors/parts from Toyota and be replacing sensors until the problem was repaired (I respect him for that).
The question: what is the guesstimated cost for dealer repair? The truck can be operated in a "failure" mode and can get to the local dealer under it's own (reduced) power.
When I bought my 2007 tundra used a year ago, it has always had a vibration that affected the whole car (not steering-wheel specific), and was worst at 60-65mph, but a hint was there even at lower speeds. It was annoying, but bearable, for example if you look at the passenger seat at these speeds, you can see it wiggle back and forth about 1/2". It seemed highway speeds were where it hit a resonant frequency.
In the past month, things have gotten much worse and when the truck has been sitting for a few days, if I quickly leave the house and hop on the freeway (only about 1/2 mile away, I get a vicious vibration mostly in the steering wheel and less so in the rest of the cab. The wheel wiggles about an inch and a half back and forth at highway speeds and letting off the gas, braking, accelerating doesn't make much of difference, just speeds up or slows down the vibration frequency.
The wild thing is that it gets much better after about 2-3 miles. No longer really shaking, just a mild vibration like it has always had. If the truck is warm and I hop back on the freeway a few hours later, no vibration, just when leaving the house in the morning.
I drive a 2011 Tundra 5.L 4X4 truck. why do I get better gas mileage while driving in the Rockies vs states like OK and TX? I get 2mpg better while driving in the Rockies. 17mpg vs 15mpg. I drive same speed, buy the same 87 octane gas & drive on Interstate highways. And it doesn't matter whether I'm driving to or from. Is the gas quality different in the Rockies vs the south or plains states?
View 19 RepliesI have a 2003 Toyota Tundra with about 57,000 miles and noticed that it takes more "push" to get the brakes to engage. (The brake pedal has to travel further towards the floor) There is no squealing or any other sounds and the brake fluid tank is almost full, I have not added any brake fluid or had any brake work done since I bought the truck in the fall of 2008. I am wondering what the problem could be and the possible cost involved to get it fixed. Brake Pads Wearing? Air Bubble? I'm not sure. This has been ongoing for about 3 weeks, but it doesn't seem to be getting any worse.
View 6 Replies