Toyota - Camry :: 1995 - Power Loss Momentarily - Cause?


Jun 28, 2012

I have a 1995 Camry with the 4cyl 5sfe engine and a manual transmission with about 120K miles. It's been very reliable overall, but lately it's been exhibiting some strange intermittent behavior. When driving at a steady speed between 2-3K rpms, it'll sometimes experience a momentary power loss. There's no stalling, but it's as if I've hit a stiff headwind or the brakes have been applied and then release. It doesn't seem to happen when accelerating, but as mentioned above, it's most noticeable when maintaining a steady speed. Sometimes it'll be very quick like it's bucking and other times it'll last a full second or two. It'll do it in all gears at both relatively low speeds and highway speeds, so there's no pattern there. There is no check engine light when this happens, but I have not yet attempted to check codes just in case it might be storing any. It'll happen when the engine is both cold and at normal operating temperature. I've also tried to observe whether or not the tachometer drops when it bumps, but haven't really been able to discern that due to the usual momentary nature of the power loss.

The coil on this car is integrated into the distributor and I read somewhere that it's common for these to start to go as these Camrys age and accumulate a lot of miles. I also read that it's common for these cars to hesitate due to internally leaking fuel pulsation dampeners. The AC compressor makes a little noise, and sometimes it almost feels like what you would expect it to feel when the compressor kicks on, although the jolt or 1-2 second sustained power loss, depending on what occurs, feels stronger than that. Plus it'll do it with the AC off, so that doesn't seem to be a possibility. Other than this problem, the car has no issues whatsoever. It's quiet, uses very little oil, idles perfectly and maintains optimal operating temperature. The miles are about 75% highway since I've been using it mostly as an airport commuter car. Most essential maintenance items, such as the clutch, timing belt, water pump, oil seals, PCV valve, thermostat, radiator, motor mounts, etc. have been replaced within the last 15K miles, and most are Toyota OEM parts. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor have all been replaced within the last 10K miles, again with Denso plugs and wires, but aftermarket cap and rotor. I did feel up under the distributor and got some fresh oil on my fingers, so the o-ring might be leaking a bit. However, I don't know yet if there is any internal leakage inside the distributor itself.

I'm going to tear into it a bit, but I wanted to see which direction to look first. Would you suspect a spark issue (again, no CEL illuminates), or something more like a fuel delivery issue? I also wondered if it might be something like the TPS or perhaps a cam or crank position sensor on the way out.

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Ok I got a 1995 toyota corolla 1.8l dx .... So this is my back up car I went out started it up let it set and warm up and took it around the yard to run it a little well it ran fine then all of a sudden it lost all it's power well I finaly got it back to the drive that was only 50ft away took almost 30mins just to get it there. I cut it off let it sit started it back up and still no power well now it won't even start it has new plugs.. Wires.. Cap button.

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Intermittent loss of power (could be describe momentarily stuttering) with momentary illumination of the check engine soon light. Its only happened a couple of times. Maybe about a year ago (I changed the fuel filter after it occurred). It occurred again about a month ago and then again yesterday. About a month ago I had a friend with a scanner look at the codes and he said there was only one and it was for low fuel pressure. Its been maybe 5k since I changed the fuel filter.

The truck is driven intermittently, maybe 5k or 6k a year, and usually parked with a full tank of fuel. What areas I should look at to correct this? I got my stock 2001 F350 4x4 manual transmission in 2004 with about 157k miles. Today I've got about 228k miles.

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I have a 99 F-250SD with 5.4 automatic that just all of a sudden started running unevenly at random times, but frequently. There is a pending code P0300 Random/multiple cylinder misfire. I have had the truck for 12 years and it has run perfectly for the last 10+ years and just started this problem, it did not come on slowly but all of a sudden. I have seen on here that some people say that 90% of the time a PO300 is a bad cop. I replaced the plugs 60k miles ago when I had a bad coil on plug 10 years ago that did not set any codes, but this seems very different that more than one cylinder seems affected, like maybe 2 or more cylinders are not firing momentarily.

There is a big power loss momentarily while it happens, but doesn't happen for long. The fuel pressure stays pretty constant (30 psi at rail) even while it happens, and it can affect the idle as well as while accelerating or cruising at speed. I cant imagine more than one coil on plug would be skipping at the same times or fail at the exact same time, but maybe having only one bad cop could cause this much hesitation? Does the code that indicates random/multiple cylinder misfire rule out only one bad cop? It just seems like running on 7 cylinders wouldn't be so noticeable. Could a sticking egr valve cause unevenness at idle and higher rpms and set a P0300 code? Would checking manifold vacuum be they way to see if egr valve is not working correctly.

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Symptoms:
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-Check engine light is on , DTC code = P0420

Tried:
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-Spark plugs replaced around 40k miles ago
-Checked for leaking valve cover gasket (oil in plug wells) None

Can a clogged fuel filter cause this? At idle the car is fine, the symptoms seem to only occur when car is under load (In drive). My son drove this car an it always seemed empty meaning he never put much gas in it.

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I am the original owner of the car, which has approximately 125k miles on it. The car has given me great service, but lately a strange problem arose that has my mechanic stumped. When I try to accelerate, the car typically does not respond. After 5 seconds or so, the engine suddenly comes to life and the car begins to accelerate. At high speeds it is not an issue, but the engine sputters once in a while. It has never stalled. It is not the transmission because the RPM stays low during low-power times.

The mechanic initially thought that it was a dirty fuel filter. But, changing it has not worked. Once the engine light came on, and the code was for the air-flow sensor. But, the mechanic is not convinced about that.

The problem tends to become worse after driving for a while, after the engine has warmed up.

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Ford - Ranger :: 1995 - Loss Of Power Steering Pump

I have a '95 Ford Ranger, 208,000 miles, manual transmission. It's always run well but about four weeks ago I began to have a loss of acceleration. This had gotten so bad now that I can't drive it. I can't make it up the smallest hill; and top speed is about 30 mph. I've taken it to the Ford service center here, and they say it's because my power steering pump is going bad and has to be replaced. Sounds odd to me; but what do I know! The repair is about 450.00.

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Ford Aerostar :: 1995 - Loss Of Power - Stalling - No Codes?

I have a 95 aerostar with the 4.0. After driving a while it wants to lose power. It only happens after the van has been running for a while, at least 2 hours or more. So of course I have mostly noticed it at higher speeds because I was on the interstate going a long distance when it happened most recently. But it has also happened at lower speeds, after the van had been running/driving for about 4 hours. The van doesn't die right off. It is idling as the van slows down. So I can come to a stop, and the van is still running. I can get out and look at it sometimes, it eventually will cut off. Pushing the gas does nothing, other than perhaps encourage it to stall sooner. It is a complete loss of power but the engine remains running at an idle. If I wait 15 minutes it will go a couple more miles down the road. If I wait about an hour, I can get even further. Let it sit overnight and it seems like it will drive endlessly but not so.

If I try to restart it immediately, sometimes it will run/stutter for a moment. I can wait a few minutes and it will run for a minute then die. After repeated tries to get it to start and stay running it just won't, and then I just wait patiently for an extended amount of time (30 minutes or more). Also on a couple of occasions the exhaust has smelled very rich, and sometimes was black. All of this has been in the last couple of days and 600 miles. It isn't throwing any codes.

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Ford Aerostar :: 1995 - Loss Of Power - Cylinder Was Dead

3.0 ENGINE - For a year now I could not figure out what was wrong with my van. It has a loss of power low end but seems to run OK at higher speeds. I changed the plugs, wires, cap etc, fuel filter and no difference. I finally broke down and took it to Firestoneto diagnose it. The guy told me #5 plug was foul and had oil on in, said it is possibly the rings. They did not charge me but they also did not do a thorough check either. They did not check the compression in the cylinder or other spark plugs.

Spoke to a guy at the auto part store and asked what I could do. He said change the oil and add a can of restore. Also said to put a anti foul adapter in first and then the new plug, the adapter would keep the oil from fouling the new plug.

I got the oil change and added the restor. Drove it for a while and took the plug out myself, its the 2nd one in on the drivers side. The plug was nasty looking. Put the new plug in and started it up. I can see that there is spark going to the new plug but putting the wire on and off made no difference in how the engine ran, like the cylinder was dead. I took the plug out of the adapter and put it back in, still nothing, I took the plug back out and there was no oil or smell of gas. Fuel injector not working? You would think there would be some combustion with the new plug.

A year ago the problem started where the van would run great one day then crappy the next. Sometimes it would run a few days great(like new) then a few days crappy. After a month or so it just ran crappy and basically has ran the same for a year now. I notice the A/C puts a load on the engine and the A/C clutch will click on and off every few second when the van is in gear but not when the van is in park or neutral. A/C is not low and works fine when driving, very cold. I normally turn the A/C off during take off because it takes off much slower with the A/C running.

The van shows some white smoke when I rev it up real good when I first start it but it does not show any smoke when idle and while driving.

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1995 toyota camry 4 cylinder engine - My car was working fine yesterday, but today when I inserted my key; the key won't turn at all. I have try changing the shift control to neutral and jerk the steeling wheel. I have also went and copy my key. When I inserted the new key, it finally turn all the way, but then it got stuck in the ignition. After a few hour I got the new out of the ignition and try again. This time the new key can't turn all the way. My uncle believe that the key ignition sensory is the problem.

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I have a 1995 Toyota Camry. I let my niece use it while on xmas break when I went to go pick it up it made a clunking screeching sound as i tried to back it out of the parking lot. I found it difficult to turn the wheel as well. I had to get it home so I drove from Orlando to St Augustine. Weird thing is that once on the highway going 70mph i didn't hear the sound anymore. I thought it was ok. I stopped in Daytona for gas and as i pulled away that sound began again. This lasted until i got to accelerated to about 50mph this time. I heard it again going through my neighborhood which is 25mph. It was very difficult to turn the wheel. My husband checked the power steering fluid which it was empty.

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Toyota - Camry :: 1995 Will Not Start / Engine Turns But Does Not Engage

My 1995 Toyota Camry will not start, the engine turns but does not engage. I have had the fuel pump, fuel filter, and a relay switch replaced. After each repair the car runs for twp weeks and then will not start. I have had it towed and the mechanics start the car with no problem and they are unable to diagnose the problem. In a month and a half, I have had the car towed 3 times.

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Toyota - Camry :: 1995 - Washed Engine Now Car Stalls / Sputters When Warm

1995 Camry 2.2 4cyl 165,000 miles FED (not CA).

Two days ago while doing a routine oil change I noticed my kids engine compartment was real dirty as we had alot of flooding from rain a few weeks ago. I sprayed the engine with a water hose w/nozzle to clean it. At the time I didn't know any better. The car was driven without any issue briefly that day. The following morning the car was driven a distance of 25 miles without incident.

After resting 30 minutes the car was started and began to idle rough and stalled repeatedly. When I showed up to inspect the issue it had been sitting about an hour. I went for a test drive and the car ran good. About 20 minutes later iI get another call saying the car is doing it again. It was sputtering/ hesitating when I attempted to accelerate it began to stall unless I limped it along staying off the gas.

Once I got it home I started doing some research and discovered that my spraying water in the engine compartment was probably what caused the issues I was experiencing. So I began to go through the motions trying to repair. I also noticed the car ran good when cold but at operating temp it would run rough. The check engine light has not come on.

I replaced the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap & rotor, etc... sensor, and air filter, I cleaned the throttle body port and IAC valve port with sea foam cleaner. I cleaned and tested the EGR valve & ports. Nothing has improved from my efforts.

I must of screwed something up good, since its been 2 days, it should be dry by now. I also been thinking that maybe some water got to the injectors. NOt sure if a cause, but the oil was changed right before I sprayed engine.

My course of action as of right now is.

1.Check and clean all electrical connectors
2.Replace distributor with a re-manufactured one
3.Replace upstream o2 sensor

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1. I can put the key in the keyhole on the outside and it will turn clockwise but won't turn to the left at all- when I turn it clockwise it makes the normal sounds.

2. I can from the inside push the power door locks to lock and unlock and it moves the lock both ways on the drivers side, still won't open!

3. When I pull on the latch from the inside and from the outside I can hear the inner mechanisms moving, sounding like it wants to unlatch it from the locked position.

4. Now I am getting paranoid about the passenger side door because when I go to put the key in on the passenger side door lock, I can turn it to the Left to unlock the doors but the key won't turn to the right at all! It is a pain right now as it is to crawl over to the driver's side via the passenger door, but if that door locks up for some reason, I am really up the creek! I don't even lock that side right now b/c I'm afraid it might mess up like the driver's side door!

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I also noticed that when it was cold this past winter and I was on the highway the temperature would decrease a lot. But regular city driving the temperature seemed fine. Well now that it's warm again, the car shuts off at just above the halfway mark. So this morning I changed out the Thermostat and now it's running hotter than ever, the heat does not work at all, and the car will not start. (it started up fine after the thermostat install but the engine temp was high and heat was not blowing warm) I'm hoping it's not a bigger issue.

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