I have an automatic 6 cup and get a P1780 error code. Says to check neutral shift sensor, which I replaced. Code came back. Internet search says to try wire loom in trunk, driver side. Opens 2-3' of it and found no frayed or broken wires. All lights work fine. Car shifts fine. No other issues other than check engine light and that code. Where else to check?
View 3 RepliesThe check engine light for my V6 Toyota Solara is on for the codes P0125, P1133, and P1135. I changed the Bank 1 oxygen senor in addition to the temperature coolant sensor. During the drive back home from the mechanic the check engine light came back on, so I went back to the mechanic and was told that maybe the sensor was defective. The Denso sensor was exchanged, but again, the check engine light came back on. Have I been buying faulty parts or is there a different problem? The first time the oxygen sensor was changed smoke started coming out from the exhaust and from under the hood.
View 6 RepliesMy 1999 Camry - 4 cyc has a trouble code of P0136. Auto Zone told me it is a defective bank 1 sensor 2. As per the repair manual, the front passenger seat has to be removed to get to the sensor's electrical connector but an internet video shows that the driver seat has to be removed. Replacing the heated bank 1 sensor 2 on a Camry before?
View 9 RepliesSo of course it has to happen 3 weeks after my warranty expires. My CEL comes on and I have it read and the result is P0440. I find out that my wife has a habit of topping off the gas tank and so I am thinking that she has probably ruined the charcoal canister. It is something easy to replace?
I have an 06 limited edition... Yes, she will not be topping off any gas tank anymore.
My 2007 Camry SE has an intermittent electrical issue. The problem started yesterday, no accidents of any time ever in the car. 195,000 miles on car.
As I was driving along the speedometer, tachometer, temp gauge all started bouncing. Simultaneously the ABS and Emergency brake light came on. The engine did not change, still drove fine. I got the code U0073. I checked a couple obvious fuses like ABS and Alternator as well as cleaning the contacts on the computer at the actuator. I've also checked my battery terminals -- fine.
I am hoping to narrow something down other than just going straight to replacing that ECU by the actuator. That is an expensive part not to be 100% sure of it, but as it stands now I would almost rather it be something "simple" like that because chasing these electrical phantoms is quite aggravating.
Also all the items I have focused are based off the assumption it is something electrical revolving around the ABS unit. Is it possible the instrument cluster is the culprit, wiring in the harness or a simple fuse related to that panel?
Had my Check Engine light come on so I went by a local AutoZone to see if they could read the code. He said it was P0137, but what his reader can't tell is which one it is.
A co-worker pointed out where it was on my 2006 2.4, but I'm not sure if it's the sensor in the engine bay or the one closest to the catalytic converter. The engine bay looks easy to change out but I'm in no condition to be crawling around underneath.
Which sensor the P0137 is referring to?
I've been getting P0442, P0442P and P0456P on my 2005 Camry 4 cylinder standard since about December 2011. For some odd reason, lately P0456P stopped when scanning when the CEL comes on again after erasing the code.
There's no symptoms of any problem so I think it's likely to be some small leak in the evap. Looking at my gas cap, it's a little dirty, but I don't see any cracks or damage, and I always make sure to fasten it on tight.
I have emission test coming up soon. (Actually this happened for 1st time like about 4 years ago when the car was under warranty. The dealer simply said that I didn't fasten on the fuel cap right, and erased the codes and sent me home. After about 4 years, same codes now that the warranty has expired....)
I have a 2008 Camry Hybrid and recently got a "Check VSC System" warning light. A diagnostic resulted in a C0210 error code. The code is for a right rear speed sensor malfunction.
I had a local shop look at it and he replaced the hub accembly including the speed sensor. It didnt work. He and I took a ride and on his diagnostic tool, the speed reading for the right rear wheel was all over the place.
The next day he replaced it thinking that the new sensor was bad. This worked, however only for a day. Now the light had come on again with the same error.
I am getting error code po457 Evaporative emissions error, I am told the canister purge valve could be bad.
View 4 Replies1999 Toyota Corolla
Error codes: P0301 ... P0304 ... P0300 ... P0420
Symptoms: Car had short touch of the shakes in the morning, parked it for 8 hrs, drove half a mile, and it got the shakes bad and seems like it wants to stall out and the check engine started flashing. After a minute it went back to normal, and then the whole thing happened off and on the last half mile home.
Background: I was told the catalytic converter was in bad shape last time I took her in so I'm assuming that's it. Friend of mine suggested driving it hard to burn out impurities in the cat, but I'm worried about damaging the engine. Going to replace the sparks and spark wires (they're about due anyways).
I took my car to my previous shop for a P0325, Knock Sensor Circuit Malfunction. They wanted nearly $500 to fix it. My new shop said that I just needed some engine treatment and the code went away for a week and a half, but it came back yesterday, and my engine ran a little rough.
I heard what sounded like a very rough engine and it was my car. The technician came in saying that I was only running on two cylinders, but that sounds like far worse of a problem than I had been experiencing. They say that I need a $266.80 valve adjustment, which is all labor, but the total is $300 more than that:
Engine Light diagnostic: $44.99 Shop Fee: 35.00 Tune up package Remove and replace spark plugs: 60.03 Additional access time - remove: 64.20 and replace spark plugs: NGK Spark Plugx4: 9.96 Adjust Valve Clearance: 266.80 Pepguard Limited Extended Labor: 58.65 Warranty BWD Custom fit ignition set: 36.39
Parts: 46.35 Labor: 436.02 Other: 93.65 Tax: 6.55 Total: 582.57
Of course, my roommate, who is upset that I am not continually pouring fluids into leaky power steering and AC systems butted in and said the entire thing is preposterous. Problems with cylinder firing are invariably the result of bad spark plugs andor wires.
Well, they say that I need to replace those, which cost $46.35, the least expensive entry in the entire estimate. They just want to charge $124.23 to replace them.
Why don't I replace them myself and see if that fixes my problems?
They say that if the valve clearance adjustment does not fix the problem then I need new cylinders and valves.
Regretfully, I have a "service plan:""Engine: All internally lubricated parts contained within the engine block, cylinder head(s) or rotary engine housing(s); oil pump; timing belt or chain, timing gears and timing tensioners; water pump; engine block, cylinder barrels, engine head(s), rotor housing(s) if damaged by the failure of an internally lubricated part. Dipstick and tube; harmonic balancer; oil pan; timing chain cover."
I cannot imagine that it would cover a valve clearance adjustment and they would only cover cylinders and valves "if damaged by the failure of an internally lubricated part."
So, ride my bike eight miles tomorrow, replace the spark plugs and wires, and hope that it is enough?
I went and got my truck smog and it failed because of this code. I then changed the sensor cleaned out the tube and I still can't figure out how to get rid of the error code?
View 3 Replies1999 F150 4.2L 125K miles.... My problems started about a month ago. I had a P1506 error. The engine was running fine but received the error code. I replaced the IAC and the air filter. Engine still running fine. A week later I received a code for the Intake Air Temp Sensor (don't remember the code). The engine still running great. I bought a new Air Temp Sensor and noticed the wires from the Air Temp Sensor were rubbing against the belt and had been severed. I made a mistake when replacing the air filter of not checking the wires (confession is good right).
The engine also constantly ran a fast idle 2000 to 2500 at this time. I repaired the wires. The engine light went off and idle now starts great and smooth but when heats up will will go to 2000-2500. I then decided to replace the Air Temp Sensor hoping to fix idle problem. Engine still idle fast when warm. However, when I come to a stop and put in neutral the engine will take a minute but go down to normal idle after sitting. Engine light stayed off for a week. Now engine light back on with original code P1506. Idle is still not working correctly.
I feel like I made it worse than it was originally and not sure what to try next.
What this means, how can I fix it? No technical jargon or abbreviations that I will not understand. The error code is for a 2006 F-250 6.0L Diesel automatic. I have a tow controller installed it came with the truck when it was new.
View 7 RepliesSo I just bought a 2003 f250 v10 and I've plugged in my code reader and it couldn't get any info, so I took it to auto zone and they got an error code. I took a test lite to each little connection on the port with the ignition on and only got power to some of the metal connections on the port. So I'm wondering if all the little connections should have power? If so where should I start to look to find the problem?
View 5 RepliesWell I thought my truck was 100%, and I was going to installed a Chip. I decided to get my Forscan up and running to check and make sure.
The Buzz test Passed with no problems.
The cylinder contribution did not pass. I got error code P1464, which Forscan said that #8 failed. FYI, I turned the A/C on and the test failed. I ran it again with the A/C off and it failed again. I might have the wrong code
I then went to where you could select the gauges to view(PID's). And I saw where you could select all the cylinders injectors individually. I forgot what it was called, but all injectors were reading close to 0.0% at idle except for #8 it was reading 5.55% to 5.88%.
I am hoping this is good news, since I rather the injector be bad then a piston ring or valve. I just got the Forscan and was wondering what other test or other things I could check to narrow the problem down before removing the Valve covers. The truck runs great and there is no miss and it turns over smooth. No blowbye, just runs great. It is a 2000 F-350 dually with just over 202,000 miles
is my Toyota camry going to stall cause it has po401 code and I think it has an muffler or exaust leak can the cause po401 code.
View 3 RepliesI just had an OBD code pulled on my 2010 Camry and it turns out that my Heated O2 sensor for Bank 1 Sensor 2 is failing. I'd rather do this myself if I can but I can't figure out where this thing is. This is something I can access myself and swap out? Or does this need to be fixed by a mechanic?
View 4 RepliesI'm trying to get my truck smogged and having problems w/po475. A friend of a friend said it was the DFPE sensor. So I bought one but can't find where it goes. On YouTube it is only listed for F150's and gas motors it seems. I have a 00 f350SD 7.3, do I even have a DFPE and if so where is it located.
View 7 RepliesEngine light and error code for tps occasionally comes on , then stays off a while. parts store said it was ok (shows full range) , but ford has an update for computer to fix. engine is v10 and parts store erased code and it hasnt come back. the only indication that something was wrong is the light coming on and once on the interstate at high speed , then the off ramp slow down, the engine seemed to want to stall as if engine not matching actual speed for a few seconds, then it was ok again. I was out of town and the mechanic that looked at it told me to go to Ford for an update. He tested the tps and said it was ok.
View 2 Replies2000 truck, 334k, automatic 2wd, stock. Have low power, 11psi max.
Permanent p0472 code, can't clear it even temporarily. The moment I turn the key to Acc, code is there. It's the only code showing on Forscan.
Tried 470ohm 1/2watt resistor, in two turbo pedestal sensor connector wires, no change. Forscan shows 0.0-0.6 psi EBP value when running.
No change with pedestal sensor plugged or unplugged. Resistor or not. Truck starts and runs good, low power is the only issue.
Sensor and tube are new. Seems like wiring is bad, where to look next to track this down?