Toyota - Corolla :: 1996 - Rust On The Driver Side Door Panels


Apr 4, 2015

My son bought a 1996 Toyota Corolla as his first car. There is rust developing on the driver's side door panels, mostly around where the decorative strip is. I am wondering what we can do to stem the tide, so to speak. Hopefully, something simple can be done. We can worry about patching the small areas that have already corroded, but he would like to not have it get worse.

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It took me ten years to talk my wife into buying a Toyota. (Her brother sold Chevrolet)... We got a new 2009 Corolla LE made 4/2008 in Japan. (bought new in late 2008)...

The paint is fading on the rocker panels and the gas cap door. The rest of the paint I am trying to keep up. (clay, polish and wax). The paint chipped really bad on the hood. It was so bad I sanded it down and found rust pits all over the metal.

The engine makes a very loud rattle sound when starting. It is especially bad when cold. We took it to the dealer while under warranty and they couldn't hear anything unusual so they said.

She had the dealer install an alarm system. They botched the job and destroyed the computer requiring several trips back and a loaner car. Alarm no longer works today. The rubber weather stripping around the windows is pealing off.

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I can't get my driver door to unlock. I've tried the key, manually form inside and electronically with the door lock but nothing works. I watched a video on dissembling the door but I need to get it open first. Any tip on how I can get it unlock/open. I was also wondering what the problem is with the lock so what to look for when I finally get it open and the panel off. I'm getting tired of crawl through the passenger side.

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My 1995 corolla door would not close. I looked and discovered that the 3 screws holding the door lock mechanism in place were gone. I went to the hardware and bought 3 new screws and installed them. The door shut and now it will not open at all. It was opening intermittently, so I bought shorter screws and put them in and now it will not open at all. The screws are flush with the door. The door is not stuck, you can feel that it is locked, so forcing it will not work. Climbing in and out over the passenger seat is quickly losing it's appeal. Monday I am taking the door apart from the inside.

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My driver side door locks by itself when I was washing the car. Is this normal. Happened to me twice now. Once when I was working in the garage. I just heard the car beep.

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I have a 2006 Toyota Corolla. There are two plastic covers on the undercarriage of the vehicle in the front.. The front driver's side is loose; the oil change told me the little clips are broken and they used a "strap" to hook it back up. Well, on the Fla turnpike, the strap lasted about 30 minutes

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I purchased a new 2015 Toyota Corolla this last June. While installing car seat covers this weekend, I lifted up the backseat and saw a good deal of rust on the hinges and bar that's bolted to the floor. The bolts are shiny and look new. I'm waiting for a call back from the dealership, but wanted to know if this is normal.

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Toyota - Corolla :: Clamping Noise From The Driver Side Front Wheel Sometimes

My car is a 2000 Corolla CE I bought 2 months ago with 45k miles. It does not have ABS system.

Before I took the mechanic:When I brake, there would be a "clamping" noise from the drivers front wheel sometimes. It sounds like the caliper "clamping" noise. The brake cylinder would also click the first time (and maybe second) the pedal is pressed.

The mechanic replaced the both front calipers, put new brake pads, installed rear drums and shoes, and changed brake fluid.

The brake pedal is now high and when I brake....it does brake but it's not like "instant stopping power" like new brake pads. Is this normal? (maybe I have to break them in). Also, the master cylinder is still clicking (I pump the brakes since my car has no ABS)....it clicks the first 2 times I pump. Is that normal?

Edit:Since the repair, I drove it for the second time. This time the brakes brake more "instantly". The clicking of the master cylinder is still there however, could this be due to air in the hoses?

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I have considerable rust on both sides at the rocker panels. Both running boards are precariously perched and won't last long (don't really care about that; I'll do without).

In my search for replacement panels, I'm only able to find ones for "crew cab super duty," not specifically the Excursion. Wouldn't they be identical? Identical enough?

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My 2011 Toyota Matrix (with Moon roof) driver side interior light won't turn off. It's in the off position. I've checked all doors and closed them properly and turned the dimmer switch down.

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Just picked up my Avalon and the drivers side front door doesn't want to shut. It will latch but won't close all the way. If you give it a hard slam it will. All other doors shut with a gentle push.

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Toyota - Corolla :: 2008 - Rust Spots On Back Quarter Panel In Front Of Wheel Well

I just noticed 2 rust spots on the back quarter panel in front of the wheel well on my Corolla. Then I looked on the other side, and found rust in the exact same spot. It looks like the rust is near some bolts that are holding on (what looks like) a small plastic mud flap (I'm not really sure if that is the correct technical name). Anyway, is that normal to have rust in the same spot on both sides, or is it defective? This is the only car I've ever purchased new so I was planning on keeping it, like, FOREVER. I think I've taken pretty good care of it so I plan to have it fixed. Just wondering if I should bring it to Toyota.

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I have a 2003 Highlander and noticed on when you open the door, there small spot of rust.

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Camry :: 1995 Toyota V6 XLE - Driver Side Door Stuck And Won't Open From Outside Or Inside

I have a 1995 Toyota Camry V6 XLE and ...My driver's side door locked up and won't open from the outside or from the inside! Here are the problems:

1. I can put the key in the keyhole on the outside and it will turn clockwise but won't turn to the left at all- when I turn it clockwise it makes the normal sounds.

2. I can from the inside push the power door locks to lock and unlock and it moves the lock both ways on the drivers side, still won't open!

3. When I pull on the latch from the inside and from the outside I can hear the inner mechanisms moving, sounding like it wants to unlatch it from the locked position.

4. Now I am getting paranoid about the passenger side door because when I go to put the key in on the passenger side door lock, I can turn it to the Left to unlock the doors but the key won't turn to the right at all! It is a pain right now as it is to crawl over to the driver's side via the passenger door, but if that door locks up for some reason, I am really up the creek! I don't even lock that side right now b/c I'm afraid it might mess up like the driver's side door!

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Wash the car today, unfortunately found the driver side doorsill start to have some rust, and luckily the rust only found at he driver side doorsill rest doorsill looks fine.

Don't know what to do now, get it painted? or just grease it will keep rust from spreading?

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Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Rust On Rear Driver Side Window Pane And Scratches

My car has many new dents and scratches (Got some scratches on my hood due to my awesome snow scrapper, and a mysterious new dent on my bumper that I saw after I washed some salt off). Anyway scratches I can deal with. It's just this bit of rust that's bothering me. It's on the rear driver side window pane.

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My '96 Toyota Corolla has difficulty going beyond 45 mph on the freeway, especially when the temperature gets down to zero. Normally the car shifts into 3rd gear at 45 mph. Instead it has excessive engine noise. I just keep my foot on the gas, and it goes past 50 mph, but with considerable effort. It sounds like I have the car in 2nd gear when driving at 50 mph. Eventually it "lets go" and shifts to 3rd. There is no CEL on, fuel filter replaced, transmission flushed, spark plugs checked last fall. From other issues I've read, I'm guessing it might be a bad thermostat? The car heats fine. Gas mileage is more than normal. No gas smells when I park. Once the engine warms up, I have no problems with the gears shifting. I had this problem a few years ago. Don't know what my mechanic did to fix it. My budget is pretty tight right now, so if I can fix it myself, I'd really like to do so.

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Toyota - Corolla :: 1996 Does Not Turn Over After A Rainstorm

I have a 1996 Toyota Corolla (5-speed, manual transmission) that has never had any problems until the past month or so. About 80% of the time now, the car does not turn over at all upon turning the key first thing in the morning. The dash light indicators (seat belt, brake, etc) come on, but that's ALL. No sounds come from the engine. I turn the key all the way back to the starting position and immediately try again, and the engine starts right up on the second try, almost every time (a couple times it has taken a third try). It will start the first time the rest of the day.

Three things to note that may or may not be related:

1. About 6 months ago, a large tree branch fell on the hood, causing some damage to both front fenders and some dings in the hood.
2. It seems to mainly occur on mornings following a rainstorm, but I can't be sure that is always the case.
3. My key is the original, and occasionally will not unlock the doors (manual locks) on the first try, but when this happens, the key will not turn at all until I mess with it for a bit.

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