Toyota - Corolla :: 2013 - How To Maintain After The Manual Stops Listing Instructions
Nov 6, 2016
I have a 2013 Toyota Corolla. I'm maintaining it according to the manual. I hope to keep it for a long time.
I see when reading the manual that the instructions for 6-month interval maintenance stop at 120,000 miles/144 months. There is nothing after that. But Corollas can last upwards of 200K miles.
What do you do at this point when there are no more maintenance instructions? Return to an earlier point in the maintenance instructions and repeat?
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This corolla is about 10-15 years old, i don't know how old. Again, its a manual transmission. It started today, when the car idles, the engine revs up a bit like a hum. I wasn't pressing the gas petal or anything and it just revs by it self. My dad says it was probably the engine was too cold and it is just warming itself. Then my dad said the car mechanic said its the gas sensor? He also said the sensor cost about 200 and with labor job, 280$. good deal?
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At least that's when I notice it,... right in that range, seems the car hesitates and then starts up again and hesitates,... and you can see the tachometer go up to around 2 k and then down to 1600 rpm,.. but I am not accelerating with the gas peddle. Thoughts on what is causing this..
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2000 Corolla - "growling" noise on the passenger side of the engine / stops when I turn the steering wheel - no loss of PS fluid (I also flushed the system) - which bearing(s) might be bad...?
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I have a 2013 Toyota Corolla. I got distracted when driving and ran through a dirt center divide and got a flat tire.I had a replacement tire put on and after I started driving from the tow yard there was an immediate heavy vibration. There's a big bump every time the car starts and when switches gears (I have an automatic) and in some gears the vibration is less intense, also when I turn the car at certain angles the vibration seems to go away completely but then returns when I began driving straight again.
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A friend of mine is giving away its head unit (it has video) from a toyota tundra 2008, can it be installed without too much trouble on my corolla 2013 L?
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I'm driving home from work around 10:15pm and driving around 45mph; I switch my car from the manual mode to automatic and all of a sudden my car skids 40 feet and just stops. No lights on the dash, just completely stops and locks up the rear tires. I am in the middle of the road at this point and try to restart the car and put it into drive and the car just jolts forward and makes a grinding noise. I was still in shock at the moment, and a cop pulls behind me and asks me what is going on and I tell him the situation. He says he needs to call a tow truck to move the car. I brought it home and now I don't know what to do. The car is a lexus 2007 gs350 awd with about 104k miles, I don't think the car should just stop while driving 45 mph and come to a skidding stop.
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I have a 2009 F150 5.4 that is 4x4 and I would like to get some info on performing fluid changes. The truck is coming up on 30,000 miles and I do tow a lot. The transmission and front differential seem to be the hardest fluids to change.
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I can't find a listing for a 511 diagnostic code for my 1994 960.
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Just purchased a 2009 Matrix XRS Manual transmission with 67,000 miles on it. I can't get the VSC Off and Traction lights on the panel to go out.
During our test drive, I had turned the system on and off to make sure it was working, and didn't seem to have any trouble with it.
I went to have it inspected yesterday. During the test, they hook up to the ODBII port to check emissions. The tech had trouble getting it connected the first time, saying the connection was going in and out. Eventually, they were able to get it connected properly and passed the inspection.
After they pulled the car out of the bay, the VSC Off and Traction lights were solid on, and they have been every time I've started the car since. Checking the manual, all I should have to do to turn the system back on is press the traction button, but that doesn't seem to be working at all. I also tried holding it down for 30 seconds or so with no luck.
The lights aren't flashing, so I don't think this is an error, I'm wondering if the computer got confused somehow with the ODBII port issues.
Stuff I've tried:
1. Followed these instructions for the Highlander Hybrid thinking maybe Toyotas will generally do this. That just caused most of the lights to flash on the panel and didn't bring up any VSC diagnostic messages.
2. I pulled the panel from the dash out to check to make sure the button was working, and I do get connectivity between the two outside pins while the button is pushed in.
how to get this to reset, or what the problem might be?
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I have Corolla 1.6 dual VVTi (year - 2009.), manual transmission, 1ZR engine, for about a year, ~50000miles on clock. About a month ago from a engine part it began to produce sound that can be heard on the accompanying recordings.
for these sounds is characteristic that:
- can be heard only while driving and depressing a gas pedal, its not heard when I am changing rmps while the car is stationary..
-only when engine is warm
-from about 1900rpm to 3000rpm.
-Toyota service is not useful, they fail to locate the source of the sound.
I submit sound recordings that I made by placing a microphone in the motor department.
[URL] .....
What is causing this and is it dangerous to drive this car?
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How to disable the auto door locks but I have the opposite problem. Mine were not enabled and I would like them to be. Looking for instructions for enabling the auto door locks? 2010 s, no smart key, manual transmission.
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I have a 2012 Corolla CE (base model in Canada) that is completely stock. Took delivery in Dec 2011. Manual transmission. I am finding the car stalls from takeoff way too easily. Have had many manual trans cars before, and have experienced nothing like this.
Can be driving around town all day, no problem, then pulling away from a stop sign or light, and bam, I stall it. The clutch is a at a good peddle position - not too low, not too high.
Taking off on hills is a bit of a nightmare. Will stall easy there too. So I have to over-rev it to make sure I pull away from any stopped position. Passengers have noticed and said, "What are you doing! And I have to explain that if I don't over-rev from a takeoff, it may stall.
Case in point: at a car wash, aiming into the wheel slots to get into the track, at a very slow crawl in 1st and the car encountered resistance when the front tire rubbed the guide, and bam, it stalled.
After 7 months of driving this Corolla, I still can't get the hang of the clutch !! Does it sound like something is not set up correctly? What to check. Basically, it looks like I can't drive a standard.
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She's got a 2013 RB GLS.
In very cold weather, we're talking around -15c (5f) or colder the car has serious trouble going into first gear or any gear.
The car starts fine, we even have let it warm up so the engine temp is fully warmed up.
As soon as we put the car into first and release the clutch, the car immediately stalls. It's also difficult to get into first gear, as it's locked out and takes repeated attempts to get into first, just to have it stall when the clutch is released.
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I have 2013 Honda Accord 6 sp manual with 25k miles on, its clutch was completed gone last week, got new replacement, local Honda customer rep. told me I should watch my driving pattern, should using more break, instead transmission slow down, particular from high speed/high gears. I told them, we have 2008 Civic 5 speed Manual, I taught my two daughters how to drive it, and the car is still running without any problem… And, this is manual transmission car, tell a driver can not using/changing gears slowing down car is a joke… but maybe I am wrong...
Is there a possibility Accord has design problem with inferior clutch materials used on their new 6 speeds manual Accord? Since car has new clutch, should I keep it for a while? Or, sale it immediately? I just can’t not see I am going to come up another 3rd replacement on clutch before the car get into 60K miles.
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Is there a way to shut this feature off. I don't need to be told when I have to shift or down shift. I thought the manual tranny E's had the ECO button which would turn this feature off, but there's no button.
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I have a 2006 Toyota Matrix. I want to change my manual transmission fluid in it. I have called dealerships and auto parts stores and keep getting different answers. I was wondering exactly what kind of fluid do I use and how much fluid do I use. I am not going to pay $219 for the dealership to do it but I want to make sure I put in the right kind and the right amount.
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2003 Toyota Matrix w/126,000 miles on it. Manual transmission just died suddenly while on the highway. I hear that this is common. This is not my first manual tranny, and car has been treated well. Web check & call to Toyota toll-free number reveal no recall. Toyota denies any knowledge of such a problem. They foisted me off, "Contact a local dealer for assistance." I await an estimate from a transmission shop. No longer trust Toyota. Will a rebuild solve this? Or should I seek new tranny? Are replacements any better? Or do they still use same lousy bearings/parts that made the original fail? Besides a new clutch, is there anything else one should repair/replace while car is taken apart? About how much should this cost, at most? Car is otherwise OK, do I repair & hope for another 75k miles, or do I junk the car? A friend suggests a 6-speed tranny.
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Have a new SF 2.4 engine that I just purchased. On the way home the engine cut off twice and two other times there was a noticeable jerk while moving. I will be taking it back to the dealer Monday and they will provide a loaner. What the problem is?
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2014 Elantra GT SE tech package. This issue is intermittent so I am reluctant to take it to the dealer as they will just say there is nothing wrong if they cannot replicate the issue.
The problem I have is the ventilation inside the car stops blowing air randomly. I could be driving for 1/2 hour, 1 hour, 3 hours, and all of the sudden the amount of air blowing out of the vents drops down to almost nothing. I can still hear the fan blowing away at what sounds like full power, but air is just barely trickling out of the vents. Really sucks on hot days! This is going to be a bigger issue once winter comes.
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First off, I want to say that we have tried different gas stations, different times of day and ensured that the lines are not kinked in any way. When my husband or I try to fill up our Subaru Outback, it stops very prematurely. Like, a gallon after we have started fueling, and there is less than a quarter tank in the car.
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