Toyota - Corolla - Noises :: Shifting Sand Noise While Turning?
Feb 1, 2012
Saw this topic addressed, but not resolved to my satisfaction, in a post made some years back by the owner of an '03 Corolla. The comments suggested a water leak was the cause. But the sound is definitely DRY (think Etch-A-Sketch vs. waterbed). And the small amount of water that is leaking on the front passenger side floor didn't start until about a month after we started hearing the noise.
My VERY amateur guess is that it is some sort of breach in the air bag system, since that's where the noise sounds like it's originating. I searched the internet and didn't find anything on this topic of a sand noise coming from the vicinity of the glove compartment. Since the local Toyota dealer service department also thinks it's a water leak (not covered by our warranty, apparently) and that it could be potentially very expensive to locate and fix....
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Our 05 Corolla, 160,000 miles, has started making a grinding sound when we upshift into 3rd, unless we let the rpms fall to below 1000. My husband said the clutch needed adjusting, but the dealer said this clutch is not adjustable. The dealer found nothing wrong and could not get the car to make the noise while in the shop. (It did actually get better for a while but got worse again almost immediately after the visit to the dealer.)
Our other car (a Saturn) has over 250K miles on the original clutch, so I don't think it's our driving. What could be wrong, and is this something that needs to be addressed soon lest we damage something irreparably? Also, this car has, since purchase, been nearly impossible to shift on the coldest mornings. Really, sometimes it is all I can do to get the lever in reverse to back out of the drive in winter (in Kansas). Warming up works, but it seems to take an inordinate amount of time before shifting is"normal."
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I have 2009 corolla with 70000 miles on it. I replaced new brake pads. I have some metal grinding noise when i turn right only. I tried looking online and got few similar problem faced by other people. I am not sure if its exactly same issue. No accident damage. Mostly driven on freeway.
1) noise looks similar
2) I do not get noise when i accelerate
3) for car this old is it expected ?
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I have 2010 toyota corolla le japan made, some time I turning left I hear the knocking noise. I already change wheel bearing both side, the strut also both side, the passenger side axle replace the cv boot 2 time with regrease since 2012 jan and left side axle change the whole new axle since 2011 jan , my driver side outer tie are changed since 2014 nov, the mechanic look at the suspension that is not leaking on every suspension parts. so what could be the noise from. I guess may be is the passenger side axle or right outter tie rod , or internal tie rod or ball joint. could you tell me what would be the noise come from or how to check. I have 220k mile with bad burning oil like 1k mile drive have to add 5w20 half quar to 1 quar. how to solve to reduce burn oil and the engine seal is not leak.
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My car has been doing this more. When I turn into a parking spot or my works' parking garage my car front end makes a Metal Grinding noise But it does not make this noise when I am driving - turning corners. Car is a 2007 Toyota Corolla LE (I miss my Beetle). The Toyota service says brakes are fine and they see nothing. I am not the only one that hears it... My son has hard it and I have startled some pedestrians.
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have an 2009 Toyota Corolla 62K miles. If the car sits out 8 hours or more in VERY COLD (zero degrees) weather makes a 1-2 second clashing/sparking noise the split second after turning the ignition on but before engine starts. I tried to attach video/audio. The car starts and runs fine. isn't a ticking or knocking or tapping noise assoc. with bad engine. It isn't squealing noise assoc. w/ serpentine belt. I've been waiting for it to get cold enough to leave overnight at Toyota dealer. I keep wondering if it isn't related to the botched oil changed at the Toyota dealer a couple yrs ago when they forgot the oil & I ran car about 30-60 seconds. At the time, they said all was okay and did compression test (Cyl 1=178psi, #2=175 #3=180 #4=178) all within the normal specs 145-189. I got a 2nd opinion at another Toyota dealer at time who removed valve cover and inspected cam caps and scoped cylinder walls and said all was okay and compression good. No mechanical problems- uses no oil, check engine light not on, etc. What noise is and why just when very cold and car sits out long time?
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I'm absolutely clueless when it comes to cars. I bought a 99 Carolla with 130k miles from a family friend, Randy, who owns a repair shop. The car was brought in with a blown engine as its previous owner ignored its oil needs. Randy put in an engine with 90k miles and tightened the motor mounts. It made the 14 hour trek from Nashville to my new home in Houston, but now the bottom makes a rattling noise going over any bump. I'm not talking big potholes- even tiny cracks cause it to rattle. Some notes:
The exhaust sounds normal. The sound is coming from in front of me at ground level beneath the hood. Just took it for a test drive and I heard it from both sides as well as the middle. I don't feel it through the steering wheel, pedal, or seat. The only thing indicative of a problem is the noise. If I had the radio on at full blast, I wouldn't know there was an issue.
The check engine light also came on. I took the car to AutoZone and got two errors- the first, P0505, was an air control valve control circuit (probable causes per AutoZone: open or short circuit condition, poor electrical connection, and/or failed IAC motor) and the second, P0420, was catalyst system efficiency below threshold- bank 1 (causes: air leak in exhaust before rear HO2S (heated oxygen sensor), AF sensor error, fuel system fault, and/or faulty catalytic converter).
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Water drips pretty much constantly and there is a shifting sand sound when in a turn. What's going on??
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I have a 1997 Corolla with 150k miles.
I had my catalytic converter and flex pipe replaced this summer. Lately, my car has been idling rough. While stuck in some horrific stop and go traffic three weeks ago, it started to make noises as if it would stall out. It didn't, but it still sometimes makes those noises.
The car seems fine on the highway. No loss of power. I did think that the hood felt too warm on a recent trip, but the temperature gauge in the car showed no issue.
The car hesitated when I tried to start it last week, but normally starts fine. It was the first cold day of the year.
I saw some white smoke come out of the tailpipe last week. It only happened once. Coolant and oil levels are fine. The spark plugs look good.
The fill pipe has been leaking gas for several months. It leaks if the tank is more than half full and it drips a bit of gas when I fill up. Two mechanics have not been able to find the leak and have told me not to replace it until it is a problem, given the age of my car.
I took it to a mechanic today (not the one who replaced the cat). He told me that the rough idling is due to the new flex pipe being shorter than what was originally there. He assured me that the car is fine to drive long distances and that there was nothing wrong with it. There's no check engine light or anything on the dash to indicate a problem.
I should be relieved, but I'm not. I've lost confidence in my car. Can the stalling noises and rough idling be explained away by a changed exhaust system? Or are these signs of a problem about to happen?
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Noticing a somewhat regular sort of light tapping noise from Subaru CVT Outback, when slowing to stop or starting out?
Some days it's noticeable only for about a second after the clunk from shifting, often you can hear it a bit longer.
You can hear it best at about 1 min, and last 40 seconds of this short trip audio-clip.
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My 94 Toyota Corolla has about 190,000 miles on it and lately it has had a hard time shifting between 20-30mph. It finally does reach it and does not have trouble shifting at any other speeds. This only happens in the heat of the afternoon (Never have this problem in the morning). Also, my O/D light has been flashing when this happens, or at least around the time it happens. Could these two problems be linked? I took it to my mechanic in the morning and he checked the transmission fluid and it seemed fine, he also had no problems driving around when he tested the car. He said my transmission is going and that I should make "long term" plans. Is there any hope?
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This is regarding a strange occurrence in my wife's 2004 Toyota Sienna. We took her van on a 7,000 cross-country journey in June and July of this year, right in the middle of the heat wave. I used synthetic oil, 5W-30 as recommended by Toyota, and everything seemed to be fine. The problem came after I had the oil changed by Jiffy Lube in Denver, CO before my 1700 mile trip home to Washington, DC. Jiffy Lube costs a bundle when you use synthetic so I had them put in petroleum-based 5W-30 oil, knowing I would change it when I got home. During trip home (850 miles/day) I passed through temperatures as high as 110 degrees. When I got back and went to change the oil I noticed what looked like sand in the valve cover area where oil is added. I was able to scrape some out of it and rubbed it between my fingers, and it had the consistency of grit. My question is what is it, and should I be concerned? I changed the oil, and again used synthetic. Did the heat cause the petroleum based oil to boil and then crystallize like sugar? What can I do to get rid of it?
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Every so often, my manual transmission Corolla will "overthrottle" during acceleration, especially shifting into 2nd and 3rd gears (and sometimes even 4th), i.e., the engine will race above the usual RPMs associated with each gear, just for a bit. This however, isn't consistent. I still need to check if the engine air filter is dirty, which I suspect could be a part of the issue.
The vehicle has ca. 124,975mi, and only started exhibiting this problem 2-3 months ago, and only in 2nd gear. Again, this issue is very intermittent, and sometimes I can go a week or two without any incidents at all. The regular maintenance (oil changes, cooling system maintenance, etc.) has been faithfully performed according the manufacturer's specifications.
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I currently own a Toyota Corolla VVTI 1.8 2009 GLI. I have been racing this car here at our auto drome for over a year. Last race it starting giving me real bad issues with shifting on the track. I can be a 5,900 RPM and shift to a higher gear and the car will choke and drown and it takes forever to recognize I'm accelerating. I know this is because of the computer and the electronic accelerator it comes with ( I can't remember it's name in English). My gas pedal is Denso and I understand there is an adaption that can be done to the cable to trick the computer.
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I bought 2008 Corolla S 5 speed with 62K miles. Now have 135K miles. When shifting up into 3rd gear, a grinding occurs intermittently, more often as miles accumulate. I try to make sure clutch pedal is fully depressed. No problems occur with other forward gears, up or down. What the problem might be and/or what can be done to fix? This is the sixth car I have owned with manual transmission. Never a problem like this!
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I have an 05 corolla XRS. I just had a sport clutch put in about 1 year ago. Whenever I shift into 4th gear and accelerate, the RPMs drop about 500 and I lose power for about 3 seconds before it starts going back up. Other gears are acting normal. Best part is that I let my friend drive the car earlier and since he did it's been doing this.
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When I first turn on my car the maintenance required light goes on for a couple seconds then goes off. I looked it up in the manual and that light says that it means the oil needs to be checked. I just bought the car certified used and they said that I didn't need an oil change for another 5000 miles because they just did it. Is that light supposed to go on automatically every time I turn the car on then go off?
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Just this evening I turned off my car (2000 Toyota Corolla), went inside and then came back out an hour or so later to discover that my radio, clock, and cigarette lighter still had power. Without the key in the ignition, I'm still able to listen to the radio, for example. This was never the case before. I had the battery replaced five days ago, but I doubt that makes a difference.... How I can fix this so that my battery doesn't drain.
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I have a 2001 Toyota Camry, Manual, with about 190,000 miles on it and I am having 2 issues that may or (more likely) may not have anything to do with one another.
1) I am experiencing really high (over 3k) RPMs at the lowers speeds in each gear right after I shift, especially in 5th gear. After a few seconds, if I back my foot off the gas, the RPMs drop down to a normal level and increase at a normal speed. Several other people have posted this and supposedly this car might lock me out of overdrive if its cool, but I have a manual, could this be my problem? Also it happens at least sometimes in lower gears as well, it does seem like the car is staying in a lower gear rather than changing when I change it.
next problem
2) My car has gotten really loud, its not a weird noise, just kind of a vrooming type sound, however it is coming from the back of my car (maybe more on the right) when I turn left the sound gets louder and when I turn right the sound goes completely away.
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I bought a new corolla 2009, automatic transmission (Not Robotic!) From the first day, when shifting from first to second gear the car makes an unnatural noise, like a whistle or a whine. (during shifting and sometimes a little bit before).
It only happens in the transition from first to second. It does not depend on the RPM at the moment. When the engine is cold, in the morning, the sound is still there, but weaker, when the engine warms up, the sound keeps appearing for the rest of the day. (I live in a country with a hot climate)
I have been told, 2009 model has the same transmission just as previous models, is it true? or there have been some changes in it?
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I have a 2002 Corolla with about 180,000 miles that has been well maintained, but I know very little about cars.
Over the past months, I've noticed the engine noise on acceleration sounds a bit louder than I would expect it to, and it seems to be getting louder over time. It's slow changing, so I'm a little unsure. And occasionally I wonder if I don't hear a sound that shouldn't be there, though I couldn't describe it yet. Mechanic said the acceleration noise is normal at start-up for older cars until they get warm, but this happens even after I've been driving a while. Worth the $100 for an engine checkup?
Also, the A/C doesn't seem to be the strongest and has a high pitch noise when I run it. Normal?
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