I have a 2013 Highlander which I purchased new. about a month ago I noticed rust all over my third row seat when I opened it. As I looked I found rust all under the seats and not only on the third row but also the first and second row also. The car is garage kept and has had no leaks. My dealership tells me it is not a Toyota problem.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 Highlander and noticed on when you open the door, there small spot of rust.
View 15 RepliesI purchased a new 2015 Toyota Corolla this last June. While installing car seat covers this weekend, I lifted up the backseat and saw a good deal of rust on the hinges and bar that's bolted to the floor. The bolts are shiny and look new. I'm waiting for a call back from the dealership, but wanted to know if this is normal.
View 19 RepliesSo, I have a new neighbor that owns a 2010 Toyota Highlander (out of warranty). Recently, the vehicle has had a on and off "rattle" type of sound that comes from the rear of the vehicle. He has tried to get it into the dealership to take a look, but since it comes and goes, it's hard to duplicate it at times.
Anyway, we noticed that if you put the seats down (60/40 split) then push them up with some force the "rattle" stops for awhile. So, we are thinking that this sound is coming from the rear seats. What to check? Could it not be "latching" properly? It seems solid when you sit in it and rock, or if you push/pull on them.
I am considering purchasing a 2011 LX 570 from CarMax and they say this vehicle, an Illinois born and raised truck, has 'extremely minor rust' on the underneath. They say that any vehicle must meet CarMax standards, and they wouldn't sell the truck if it had rusting that was gonna be a problem.
The CarMax folks seem to be pretty straight shooters in my experience so far. My salesperson also said that the level of rust this vehicle had would be present on any 4+ year old truck, regardless of where it was from...
My wife's 06 T-reg has started experiencing a squealing/whirring sound from underneath. The sound appears to be coming from underneath the back seat. It starts at appx 20MPH and continues as we drive. The sound doesn't get louder, it just continues.
Tonight when we got home, we also noticed a smell of something. Possibly a clutch-type smell. Am I looking at a transfer case going bad?
I have noticed recently after couple of rainy days that my driver door and passenger door sills are filled up with water I assumed that there is a leak from underneath the door which comes from in between the door and the wheel. Is it like i have to buy an after market plastic covers to stop this leakage?
View 3 RepliesAbout a year ago our headlights were getting dim . Our dealer referred us to a company that had a process to polish the lights and restore their brightness. Now after a year or so the lights are again cloudy and need attention. I purchased a kit but haven't tried it yet because of winter in Wisconsin.
I've also read that toothpaste can be used to clean and polish the lens on headlights.
Looking to buy a used bmw x3 (75K miles) 2006 model versus a toyota highlander limited hybrid 2010 with 65K miles. The bmw is priced at 14K, while the highlander is priced at 26K. Both cars drive good, clean records. However the hybrid I fear has hidden costs.
View 4 RepliesI am trying to replace the alternator. I have removed the top pivot bolt, the lower bolt going through the tensioning device, and the bolt that adjusts the tension. The thing still won't come out. I can move it up and down (like it is pivoting on the pivot bolt) but it won't come out from between the area that the pivot bolt slides into. Tried using a large screwdriver to pry it out but it doesn't budge.
Is there a secret to remove this that I haven't discovered?
In January I purchased a front wheel drive 2010 Toyota Highlander with 23,000 miles. When driving just over 60 mph, there is a fairly loud humming sound at the back of the car (seems to be more toward the right rear). The dealership replaced the LEFT rear wheel bearing (they said the right bearing was fine) and performed road force balancing on the new Yokohama Geolander tires I purchased with the car. Unfortunately, the annoying humming sound has not gone away.
View 8 RepliesEverything electric works fine, windows, radio and all. The car will not start. New battery, still no start, not even trying. Put a new starter on and still nothing, but when you arc it you can hear it free spinning next to the fly wheel.... what to do next? some people have said it needs to be shimmed, how would I go about trying that?
View 7 RepliesI have a '06 Toyota Highlander that blows hot air from the vents when the controls are in the following positions:
- Temperature anywhere in the cool to cold range
- Fan on at any speed
- Diverter in any position
- A/C OFF.
The air comes out hot after I make a sharp turn in either direction. If I turn the fan off I get fresh, cool air from the vents regardless of the turns.
I just bought (ten days ago) a 2009 Highlander Hybrid Limited, hoping to take advantage of the very good MPG advertised by Toyota. The vehicle has 70,000 miles and in pretty good condition.
The problem is that I have a terrible 13-14 MPG. I did some research and I can not find what is wrong. I do everything by the book. No abrupt acceleration or braking. No AC. I drive only in city.
The batteries levels are good according to what I can see on screen.
I am a little worried because even for a regular gas engine Highlander 13 MPG is pretty bad !
Wife is 5' tall and can't see out the windshield sitting in the passenger seat. No ability to raise seat, can go back and forth but not up. We had a 2010 Highlander SE and did not have this problem. Now she hates this car.
View 1 RepliesI am trying some troubleshooting based on various things I found for my 2010 Toyota Highlander blower motor. The issue is that my blower motor operates intermittently. Here are the symptoms and what I've done so far:
-Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. It seems to be dependent on weather (in the sun for awhile and doesn't seem to like that), although lately it doesn't really seem to matter. Had it in my garage yesterday and it just works some times and not other.
-If it works, all speeds work (full range). That makes me think it doesn't have to do with the resistors, although I can't find the electrical schematics for the car.
-All fuses are fine
-I have jiggled all wires and can never get it to work (if not working at the time) or to not work (if working at the time), so I don't think loose wires are the issue.
-I put a multimeter across the leads going to the motor and always get voltage. When the car is on, it's about 13-14V, and when it's not running just above 12V.
-The rear blower motor works perfectly, 100% of the time
-Light physical agitation of the motor doesn't make it come on or go off
My main question is what is the 3rd lead going to the motor? The two bigger leads are the voltage, but that seems to always be there, even with the car off. I'm guessing the 3rd lead is some control signal for the motor but not sure. I can't ever get a voltage on that lead, but I'm not sure I'm even supposed to. When the motor was supposed to be on and it was working, I unplugged it and checked the voltages, but got the same readings as when it wasn't working.
Purchased a 2010 AWD Highlander, There is a whining noise coming from the rear end, possibly the differential. Is this normal in all Highlanders?
View 5 RepliesI was told one of three cat converts is clogged. How do you repair this does it need all 3. I am also having transmission problem with the same what is wrong with this toyota.
View 11 RepliesThis past summer on humid days I would occasionally have problems with the car idling. Usually after filling the gas tank. Had the car towed into dealership twice but no codes and it never acted up for them. Once the season changed and got colder I have not have any more significant problems. Occasionally the car would act like it was going to die after start up but if you gave it gas for a few seconds it was ok to put it in drive. Last weekend in Cleveland (very cold) I started experiencing more problems with the idling (note the car starts but you have to keep your foot on the gas or it will die). Took it to a private mechanic and he has spent the last 4 days scratching his head. Again computer shows no problem. He has cleaned the choke and throttle and cleaned spark plugs. All parts look fine. He's checked the IAC and the mass air censor. He has checked his "expensive" computer program and cannot find any other answers.
View 4 RepliesMy 2004 Highlander air conditioning air shifts from cold to hot at random (well maybe more often after going over a small bump). If I rotate the temperature knob from cold to warm and back, it goes back to feeding cold air. it happens when air conditioner is off and the fan is feeding outside air as well. When I asked my favorite repair shop about it their eyes rolled back - I don't think they wanted to tackle it. Is this a mechanical problem or electrical problem?
View 2 RepliesEngine light, VSC and TRAC off lights come on. Local garage says code P1201, go to transmission shop. My code book says Injector circuit open/shorted cylinder #1. Is this still a transmission shop issue? I am terrified of dealerships, can I drive it a few more days, short distances whilst I decide who will dupe me over more?
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