Toyota - Matrix :: Clutch Slipping Only Going Uphill At 3500 Rpm At 32K Miles
Dec 20, 2012
The clutch started to slip on my 2006 Matrix at just 32K miles.Only going up hills ~3500rpm, near the engine's torque peak.The previous owner must have dogged it in the 8,100 miles they had it.Unfortunately no way to know that time bomb was there.
Got the car back today. (Excellent indie shop in College Park MD)The flywheel and pressure plate had blue color from overheating.The flywheel had to be resurfaced.The friction disk was not worn down much.The pressure plate springs apparently were weakened from the heat.I can really feel the difference.
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I'm 350 miles into break-in period. Just had a DXD stage 2 daily clutch installed on Tuesday. APR Stage 2+ tune with VWR intake and APR downpipe and HPFP. Been babying car since clutch was installed. Under partial throttle going up hill clutch is slipping in 5th and 6th.
I'm also experiencing a terrible vibration thru the chassis at 2k RPM in upper gears with light load on engine.
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Having clutch issues? I have just put 10k miles on my JSW and the clutch feels like it slipping in 1st gear when heavier load(uphill ETC) is present its even worse. We have never drove it hard pretty much cream puff.
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I have a 1997 F250 heavy duty 4x4 7.5 efi. I just bought a 2003 weekend worrior weighing 5800lbs dry. When I go up slight hills in 4th gear it seems to work real hard especially on freeways, could my clutch be slipping or am I just at max tow
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Having problem with 5R110W direct clutch. My nephew had his 2005 SD f 250 6.0 be told that 5R110W direct clutch problems. He was towing a trailer in tow mode and it started slipping in and out, so he took it to a dealer and they said that it was the direct clutch that was causing the problem and needed to be rebuilt, he only has 40000 miles on it but they said that it is out of warranty. What do you guys think that he should do?
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I got my 2011 S Corolla brand new and it's been great thus far. To make things a little more exciting, I got a manual. The last manual I had was my 2006 325i so it's been a little while.
Over the past few weeks, both my wife and I are experiencing quite a bit of clutch shudder or chatter and are finding it more and more difficult to engage the clutch without completely shaking the car. We've noticed this the longer the car is driven. On cold starts it doesn't happen. I've read some horror stories of the tranny going out, a weak transmission mount, or a warped flywheel in these Corollas. We bought this car because it's supposed to be reliable and get good mileage. Also, I'm still under the powertrain warranty but I'm not sure if they'll cover the clutch.
I have not checked the transmission fluid yet either. I can really use some suggestions. I had a 318is for over 100,000 miles and never put a new clutch in it!!! I'm getting frustrated.
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My father gave my daughter his one owner 50k Corolla. The clutch seemed to be slipping so my local gas station mechanic replaced it. She drove and soon felt that the clutch was slipping again. She took it to Toyota dealership. They said the clutch needs replacement. They did the job and now a few days later the clutch feels like it is slipping again. What is the cause?
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I accidentally drove my Toyota Matrix in third gear at highway speed for at least 50 miles. Did I do damage?
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I have a 2009 Toyota Matrix that has 127,000 miles on it. It has had several sources of oil loss in the past year and now it just seems to be burning it. I am very skeptical that a toyota engine is burning oil at 127,000miles. I replaced a part called a pcv valve as well as a seal that was causing leakage. Now I am losing about a quart every 1000 miles and no leaks can be found. Any other things that would cause oil loss besides burning?
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Vehicle has 53000 miles. Check engine light all of sudden came on and the car reduced to 40ish miles per hour and would not exceed it. when parked the vehicle will only go to 3500RPM and then the needle will drop back down. No visible signs of fluids anywhere or any smoke. No sure where to start to see what the issue is.
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So this morning when I started my car for work, the engine warning light turned on.....Last night it was perfectly fine. What surprised me was the car is only 3500 miles in. Why encountered the engine light issue this early in their ownership of the IS?
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I have a 2011 Toyota Corolla S 5 speed manual and after 15000 miles I noticed a ticking noise in my engine bay and goes away once I push down on the clutch, but once I get off the clutch the noise comes back. Is this a normal thing or should I be concern? I have 75000 miles on my car now, is it covered through the extended manufacturer warranty coverage of 120000 miles?
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So I am new to the VW TDI, and I am hearing some noises I am not used to...
First noise, when the transmission is in neutral, clutch pedal not depressed, I hear a noise from the clutch (makes the TDI sound louder than it really is), if I put the car in gear, the noise goes away (even if I put it in neutral and keep the pedal pressed in), sounds like the pressure plate or clutch could be making that noise, is this normal or not ?
Second noise, when accelerating (especially accelerating hard) above 3500 rpm or so the engine makes a weird muted sound, I can't really describe it, maybe like bubbles of air in water would do, but muted ... it's a weird sound !
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I just recently bought an 06 Santa Fe with a 2.7l v6. It was a rebuild. It had been hit in the left wheel. The lot put a new fender, suspension parts, axle, etc. It only has 25k actual miles.
We took it on a 100 mile trip today. I noticed if I am going up hill and it has to downshift, it feels like it looses power. The car continues to slow... Like the tranny is slipping. I stopped at Walmart and found the tranny fluid wouldn't even register on the dipstick. I bought Valvoline max life tranny fluid that matches the sp3 specs in the manual. I had to add almost 3 quarts before it was full. I think they may have forgot to add fluid back to replace what leaked out after they replaced the axle It didn't seem to work though when I continued to drive. After I stopped and let it cool about 30 minutes, it did seem a little better.
I guess my question is should I replace the tranny fluid? If so, what should I replace it with? Is there anything else what could be causing this now?
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Yesterday I measured the mpg going uphill.
It was 22.2 MPG going Uphill 4.7 Miles from elevation 50ft to elevation 1250 ft. It is more than 50% drop in the mileage.
Do other cars ( non-prius / non-hybrid ) too drop 50% mpg going uphill ?
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My car has 109000 miles and we live in SD. Recently the car just won't go uphills - the engine revs up, but the speed doesn't get above 40-45 miles per hour. Once at the top of the hill, the car just takes off and drives normally until the next hil! What could be the problem.
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I have a problem with my transmission slipping. It seems to happen most often when I have shifted from park into drive and am going uphill. I don't really notice a problem with it when I am on flats or even at red lights. It can drift backwards for 10-15 feet before "catching."
I don't feel any problem when I am going faster or in higher gears. 1999 Ford Explorer SOHC 6 Cyl 4.0...
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I bought my F-250 Super Duty 6.0 last October, and I am extremely happy with it comparing to my former '03 Dodge 2500 TD. The Ford drives so much better!
There is only one problem I have with it. Without pulling it shifts nice and has lots of power. A Month ago I bought a fifth wheel trailer and I hardly notice it behind the truck, also it doesn't use more diesel pulling. However going uphill the transmission seems to slip, and I can hear (sounds like) a fan running loud? I loose speed.
All the temperature gauges stay normal, no difference. It starts to pull worse. I replaced de tranny filters, inside and the outside one. Also I did put the correct transmission fluid in there, no difference. Almost no grindings in the oilpan/magnet.
I looked on many sites, but cannot find anything on this. Personally I think it's the torque converter? My final step would be to have the transmission rebuild, with the best parts available, (close to WA, ID, MO)...
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'06 Power Stroke/136k miles.
This last weekend I was towing my rzr up hill and the tranny slipped, lost power, and the "Wrench" check eng came on. I pulled over, checked my fluids, checked for leaks, checked for smells, couldn't see anything visibly wrong.
Turned it back on and no other issues on the way to the camp site. On the way home, days later, same thing happened twice. Is the tranny going bye bye? Would it be worth it to get a flush for the possibility it just may be the fluid and maybe some sediments or something of the sort?
AND the bigger question is, if it is the tranny, should I trade this POS in, or replace the tranny? It has had a few problems lately with the turbo. Needs a new AC compressor. I didn't do much homework or know about the 6.0's before I bought this truck. After I bought this truck last year I heard about all the problems the 6.0's have and wished I would have went another route.
I can turn a wrench pretty decent (Aircraft Mechanic) but I have very little knowledge on vehicles, let alone this POS. I am apprehensive about doing a transmission or any big components without assistance. This is why I am trying to decide what the best option would be for the long run.
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Car: 1995 Corolla 1.8L automatic
Symptom: misfires around 3000-3500 RPM only when warm.
I have replaced the following:
-Spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor
-Ignition coil
-Fuel filter
-Poured some quality fuel system cleaner into the gas tank
The car stutters when accelerating in any gear hard enough to reach the engine speed that the misfire occurs at. It doesn't backfire, it just misses... I am confused since so many of the misfire issues I know about that are RPM specific are spark-related.
I have considered cleaning the injectors, but don't want to go through the hassle to remove and have them cleaned unless I really have to. Checking if hunch on the injectors is correct? Something else?
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2002, Has about 130k miles
1) Engine rattles at 3500rpm. Only at 3500rpm. 3000 is fine, 4000 is fine.
2) Just had my brakes replaced. They knock when I brake moderately, took it to the mechanic, who replaced them. They knock less now, but still knock. The knocking sound is kind of a pop that happens at 1 second intervals.
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